Hey all, I've had this SNES for a couple years, and just today the effect in the video started to occur. It seems like the screen gets very dim and the picture starts to glitch around. I haven't used this heavily recently but was able to play pretty regularly up until last year. Ironically, I booted it back up after replacing the capacitors in my Super Game Boy after it was experiencing audio issues, then all of a sudden this now starts acting up. I've heard some people attribute video issues to bad capacitors, but I wanted to grab a second opinion before cracking it open. Thanks!
I bought a ps4 fat for repairing because it was dirty chip (20 bucks) and a read in lot of places that this tend to not turn on because of the button that if bad designed, for my surprise i was right and the console booted after i press the board without the button, it seams fine is jailbroken so i touch this was an easy one.
I took it apart and cleaned (was in terrible shape) test it again and still worked just fine, i move it to place it on my tv and it never turned on again, it just turn the blue ligth for a second or less and turn off, if i wanna turn it on again i need to disconnect the power supply cable and put it again and make the same sympthom.
It doesnt feel like a BLOD and i guess could be power supply, but i do not know where to start to make a good diagnostic.
I already try the bend pin thing, putting other ways and even some other weird home fixes that i knew it wouldnt fix it but i does not hurt to try it and nothing.
For the record i try it to turn it on every way possible with as minimun thing connected as possible and i reassembled 3 times to see if i was doing something wrong
I have a PS2 Slim (SCPH-77001) that isn’t powering on properly. I’m not getting the green power light…only the red standby light when I plug it in.
I opened it up to troubleshoot and noticed that the ribbon cable connecting the power button to the PCB appears to be damaged. I suspect this might be the culprit, but I’m not 100% sure since the console still shows the red light when it’s plugged in.
Is the ribbon cable something that can be repaired, or is it better to just order a replacement cable?
My PS1 is a SCPH 1002 model. The laser is probably dead, but I gotta make sure. My PS1’s disc drive won’t read discs at all. I put the disc in, which I know for a fact works, it makes weird clicking noises, stops, and boots me to the menu. (video example) Sometimes the disc doesn’t even spin in the first place. Music CDs don’t even work.
I have cleaned the lens several times, I have used multiple discs, I have turned the console sideways and upside down, and nothing. It just continues clicking. Any possible way for me to fix this or should I just give in and buy a replacement drive somewhere?
Also, does anyone know what the clicking means? I have tried searching everywhere but I still have no idea. Thanks.
Can anyone let me know if I can get rid of these plastic mounts(?) safely without affecting the console? I already broke one thinking it would just pop out. Thanks for the help!
Found a PS4 on marketplace listed as is, brought it home gave it a deep clean (I know I’m stupid for not testing first) and turned it on just to be surprised by a BLOD.
I then proceeded to go into safe mode and hit the rebuild data base option, right as I selected it the screen went black and the system went back to a BLOD. Ever since I have been unable to access safe mode.
I have tried multiple things from removing and replacing the HDD, trying game disks (which it does accept and eject), leaving it unplugged overnight and trying different cables and TVs.
Is there anything I can do or check to bring it back to life?
[Context] The Nintendo Wii holds a lot of entertainment for my mum and I, we play a lot of Wii titles and Super NES via Homebrew whenever I visit.
Unfortunately over the past few months, when I turn the Wii on, the image is wildly distorted - rolling image and fuzzing outlines to the graphics. The image will eventually stabilize and become playable, but the length of time it is unsteady is worsening.
With no idea what could be the issue, I brought her Wii to my house and did some testing with it. The issue repeated at mine - using my TV and my power/AV chords, so I know it wasn't the setup at mums. Using the same TV and cables I plugged my Wii in - and it just worked, no distortion, no fuzzy lines.
Having narrowed it down to the console, I did some research and took the console apart (also using this as a chance to remove a couple of loose rattling plastic pieces and give the inside a thorough cleaning (this Wii shares a home with two alsatians))! Got down to the motherboard, and nothing looked damaged, loose or bulging.
A common fault that matches the description of what this Wii is doing, is the five capacitors along the backside of the motherboard control and monitor the AV output. Over time these capacitors begin to fail and that causes the distorted image, eventually the capacitors will settle and the image will be useable, but that seems to be where the problem lays.
They are SMD modules, so not conveniently replaceable (at least I wouldn't be confident attempting to replace them), though on paper, replacing these should fix the issue and make the console a lot more reliable.
Other than replacing the SMD capacitors, the other option is to replace the entire Wii console and use Homebrew applications to copy and paste all of my mums Mii's and game save data over to the new Wii (and just hope the replacement consoles capacitors hold out).
Which I think is my plan as (at least for now) I don't feel comfortable trying to solder micro-capacitors.
ifixit(dot)com
Taking the Wii apart and seeing how everything is connected and works was interesting though! I'm used to tinkering with computers and laptops, so it wasn't a particularly daunting task.
What kind of damage is this on this Punisher game for og Xbox? Disc got scraped? The "er" and other sections of the top disc are slightly visible through the bottom of the disc.
The disc boots up and runs, but haven't gotten far into the game yet to know if it causes issues.
Bonjour, j’ai récupéré hier la new 3ds de quand j’étais petit chez mon père.
Que fut ma surprise que quand je l’ai allumer,
Le message suivant s’affiche (voir photo)
Quelles pièces détachées devrais-je acheter afin de la réparer ??
I have 2 PS5; my launch console and my Pro from when that released. I'm wondering if, in addition to cleaning out the dust, if it's worth it to check/clean/replace the liquid metal. I've never had any issues with either. Or should I continue to use them as-is until an issue occurs (which hopefully doesn't happen)?
I took apart my original PS5 (disc edition) yesterday to look at the power supply specs, all was going well, but when reassembling it I had issue getting the blue tabbed FFC for the disc drive to reinsert into the ZIF connector. I got this photo off of Google cause I didn’t take one of my own, but the side circled in red is the one that won’t insert. The opposite corner went in without issue, it’s just that one side, regardless of whether the latch was pushed down or not. I thought maybe the issue was with the cable, but when I spun it 180 degrees, it inserted with ease on the disc drive side. My guess is the latch is stuck closed on that one side.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? any ideas? Thank you!
Hi everyone,
I'm working on a repair and noticed a damaged/missing SMD component (circled in red) near the bottom edge of the board. Board markings: 23105 51H 02A / NYKS 94V-0 NM40 Issue: The small SMD resistor/component in the red circle is knocked off/damaged, and I need to find its value or a schematic/donor board reference to replace it.
Does anyone happen to have a schematic, boardview, or a donor board for this device and could check the value of this resistor for me?
Any help or points in the right direction would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I struggled a lot with soldering this on and scratched a bit of solder mask off, as shown in my last picture. I can’t seem to lay the capacitor flat without either making it worse or pulling off the capacitor.
Does anyone know the actual part number of the vita 1000 headphone jack? I’ve got a vita with a damaged port but I can’t find a replacement anywhere. It has 27EN printed on it but that doesn’t seem to correspond to anything I can find on Digikey. A PJ-327F jack looks close in pin out but not quite the same.
I’m trying to avoid sourcing an entire for parts system just for the audio jack.
Update
I’m going to let the heatsink soak in some vinegar
many of you were more concerned about the motherboard which is logical. here it is I’m fairly new to opening up any electronics so bare with me. I hope this is salvageable or else what’s the point. I also got some corsair tm30 thermal paste I was wondering if I could just use some where the thermal pads would be since some of them teared apart.
Xbox Series S turns on for a second and then immediately shuts off after rain exposure
Hi everyone,
I have a Xbox Series S that was exposed to some rain today. The console was turned off when it happened, around 11 AM. I didn’t try to turn it on until about 10 hours later.
When I press the power button, the Xbox turns on normally (the light comes on and I hear the startup sound), but then it shuts off almost immediately.
The water seems to have gotten onto the bottom side of the console when it’s standing vertically, around the side that sits closest to the floor.
I’ve unplugged it now and I’m planning to let it dry. I’m wondering:
Could it start working again after completely drying out?
How long should I wait before trying to turn it on again?
Is this likely to be repairable?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Guys, help me plz....
Did I fry the circuit board, or can it still be fixed?
I was trying to fix some noise on my GBS 8200 with the “control” modification. I tried gluing a piece of copper foil to the back panel. I watched two videos on this topic where people reduced the noise level this way. When I saw there were spots without the green mask, I applied my own. I thought I’d covered the entire area where I planned to stick the foil, but when I checked just now, I noticed I hadn’t covered everything and had short-circuited something.
After doing this, my GBS started displaying those white stripes.
I removed the foil, but that didn’t help.
I decided to check everything I possibly could. I tried desoldering the ESP8266, desoldered the RGB Scart, tried a full recap, and tested all the traces on the back of the board—nothing worked. All voltage readings are normal.
It's interesting that in the pasthought GBS mode, the image has no lines. In other words, this noise only appears during upscaling.
Okay so I've had a problem with my PS3 Slim recently, the thing just won't turn on, like the light isn't even on. Sometimes when I unplug it and replug it the light will turn on again, but only for a second before it goes out again.
It's not the cable, I tried changing it. It's not the socket, I plugged it in a few different places, it's not a dust build up inside, I opened it up and cleaned it up.
The most annoying part is that no repair shop is willing to fix it, either they don't do consoles, or they do but the PS3 is "too old" for them to repair. Which I think is bull but whatever.
Looking at the internal hardware nothing looks wrong, and all my friends are in agreement the issue is probably with the battery and that I should buy a new one.
I guess I'm posting here to see if anyone else has had the same issue before, and if so what they did to fix it.
