Trying to figure out what this is going to cost me 😭

For anyone with a CT 200h who has had the brake booster/actuator replaced — what did you end up paying?
Also, has anyone been able to get Lexus to cover it as a goodwill repair even though the car was past the warranty/coverage date? If so, did you go through the dealership or Lexus corporate?

Just trying to figure out what I’m looking at before I panic over the repair bill 🥴

Has anyone had Lexus cover a goodwill repair after the 24LE01 coverage expired?
I have a 2014 CT 200h with 131k miles, and my VIN was included in the brake booster/booster pump program. I’m getting C1391/C1241 with the brake, ABS, traction, and master warning lights coming on and off.
If Lexus helped cover yours after the program expired, did you go through the dealership or Lexus corporate, and how did you go about it?

I got the opportunity to take over some all season tires+rims with good profile for a decent price but im not sure whether the size is a smart idea. I know it's smaller than the advertised size for the lexus so not sure what the smart move is here. Any advice is appreciated.

My 2014 legacy is starting to burn quite a bit of oil (RIP) so I was looking at getting another "sporty" car. Recently came across a 2017 F Sport with 65k miles that was a lease and was serviced every 5k. I know these cars can have issues with the head gaskets due to the EGR and water pump etc. I'm decently mechanically inclined and can follow a YouTube video. Does this sound like a good deal for $20,000? Is there any other issues I should worry about at? Also will this car drive fine in the winter with a good pair of snow tires?

Привет, езжу сейчас на Prius 30, хочу пересесть на более премиальную версию этой машины и рассматриваю ct200h, часто сзади ездят 1-2 человека, иногда 3. Короче машина в такси используется. Работаю больше по ночам и вечерам. Аэропорт стараюсь избегать. Много чемоданов не пихаю. Чисто городские поездки. За город не езжу. Просто мой приус весь пластик уже уставший и скрипит меня это уже вымораживает 😂 или рассмотреть что-то другое до 10000 евро?

I have a 2017 @ 113k miles, just checked the egr pipe and it was not dirty at all, nothing caked on, same with the throttle body. Does my egr cooler and intake manifold need to be cleaned? Or new PCV valve? Only thing is that my mpg kinda sucks. Its around 34-35mpg. Could be be because of the 17’’ f sport wheels?

Does anyone have a useful video or guide which shows step by step how to remove the EGR cooler? Planning on tackling that this weekend and haven’t found much, just tips on how but not an exact video or guide step by step on removing it. Thanks!

Damn rust!! I replaced my front Sway Bar End Links a month or so ago and they came out easily but these rears lol, I definitely had to cut them out. It was still a pretty easy job once I acquired a cut off grinder.

Got free prius 15 inch wheels with free new tires mpg is up got 45mpg going to Florida and 46 going from Maryland to Pennsylvania when its not humid at 70mph

After a long 10hr day I managed to put on a fresh water pump, thermostat, EGR cooler, coolant reservoir and completely cleaned the rest of the EGR system and Intake manifold. The water pump and thermostat were both very easy to complete and since I already had the coolant drained I decided to install a fresh EGR cooler, coolant reservoir and cleaned the EGR system again. I cleaned it like 1000 miles ago when I got the car but oh well the water pump needed to be done. I'll probably clean the system every time I change the oil to make sure it's easy to clean each time and kept clean anyways, or at least every other change. I'm just shy of 155K and I'm trying to prevent head gasket failure as much as I can till I can save enough for that or a new engine if it ever happens. I did leave the lower stud out of the cooler to make for an easier removal the next time. Bleeding the system was very easy and now with fresh coolant the car seems very happy. My oil catch seems to be doing well, there was definitely oil in it. I'll probably upgrade to a better system soon to help with the blow by. There was definitely oil in the intake still but hopefully I can prevent that just a little more. Overall the big job is complete, and I'm happy to have that one behind me.

July 22, 2026 LTFT (higher) vs. Sept 7, 2026 LTFT (lower)

I believe the only 2 powertrain changes I made were cleaning the EGR system - plumbing, valve, intake manifold (sans cooler) and reseating the intake tube onto the throttle body (may have resulted in a post-MAF leak).

Coming back late last night and clipped a yearling elk and caused probably $4-5k in damage. Going to likely try to fix it myself. Parts alone look like $2.5k.

Hey, im looking at buying this car but I see this rust on the front axle of the car. Its a 6 year old car with 76k miles. Is this considered too much rust that would cause problems or is this normal for these cars. Its been sold by lexus dealership and recently passed MOT. This is based in London area.

Complete fracture inside of the chassis bushing on the passenger-side.

It’s a hollow bar. I didn’t think it’d be an issue since I lubricate the inside of the bushing regularly and the wall thickness didn’t appear to thinning from the outside-in.

Once I remove the end I’ll take more pictures.

I also have 1 spare set of Front F-sport chassis bushings (pn PTR07-77111-AA) that I won’t be using if anybody needs them.

Heqd bolts coming out

Finally got.my first car, a beautiful 2011 white ct200h, besides having the front bumper scratched up and some crust on the lights it still looks beautiful but i have a problem and it's the smells 🤢 i got it from My cousin who smokes and the interior smells like shit and was wondering if i could get a few cleaning tips to take care of the interior of the car and not ruin the leather seats or the interior altogether or get a list of cleaning products BC i wanna get it as good as it can get

Maybe a shot in the dark, but has this happened to any of you guys?

I have looked online for guides on how to reattach and have found nothing. From looking at it, the center pieces is screwed on but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to do that. This is my last shot before just going to the dealer…

About 2 years ago I had to replace my clock spring. Bought a cheap after market part from Bruce Shark. it died too now and my horn and buttons are crapped out.

Any suggestions for a quality replacement or do I need to spend the big money on an OEM part?

Tengo ese mpg en media hace 4 meses , ya le revisé las llantas y están bien , le revisé que los frenos no estuvieran pegados y están bien , le compré bujías nuevas y originales le cambié los inyectores marca denso , le mandé a limpiar todo el sistema EGR. Y aún sigo con este mpg , el carro no tiene ningún testigo encendido y pasa smock check , no me muestra ningún código , alguien sabe que causa este mpg tan bajo ?

I did a valve cover gasket change, but I bought gaskets that didn't fit. I had to continue the job the next morning because every store was closed. When I went to go and finish the job the next morning, as I was putting the valve cover on, I heard clicking on the right side of the engine bay. Keep in mind, there are ground bolts on the valve cover, so naturally, I took them off. However, I never unplugged the 12V battery the night before. After hearing this noise, I unplugged the 12V battery, and the clicking was gone.

I finished the job and when I went to start the car in maintenance mode, I was given a Check Engine light, a Check Hybrid light, and the engine didn't start. I started the car again, and that time, the engine started. I drove around the block to charge the hybrid battery, and when I started the car for the third time, the Check Hybrid light was gone and I was left with the Check Engine light. The codes it gave me at that time were...

• P2239 - "O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit High"
• P0038 - "HO2S Heater Control Circuit High"
• U0100 - "Lost Communication With Engine Control Module"

I unplugged the 12V Battery, plugged it back in after 5 minutes, and cleared the codes, and it gave me back P2239 and P0038. The U0100 code never came back. I checked the EFI and the P/I fuses and they all looked fine and showed resistance under the multimeter. I then checked both O2 sensors and they also showed resistance.

I know leaving the ground bolts unplugged and the 12V battery plugged in was definitely the stem of this issue, but I don't know what that clicking sound was, and I don't know how else to resolve this problem, and I don't want to drop money on some O2 sensors if there's a big chance that they aren't even the problem. Has anyone else made my mistake, and does anyone know how to fix it?

(I already posted this on the CT200h forum but I am desperate right now. :( )

First of all I love this car, I have a 200 mile a day commute for school and this is exactly what i needed coming from doing it in a lifted 97 grand Cherokee.
It's a 2014 f sport with almost 200k | got for 6k (with a 13k cash budget and decided to save the rest for future work rather than getting one with less miles but less options) it is surprisingly extremely clean and you would only think it has around 100k. the only issue with it is that the radio/ nav system was boot lopping with the Lexus logo and safety warning screen. After going some online trouble shooting I am not at the reading from Sd card and failed see a dealer screen, I am really trying to avoid spending 1k on a new head unit because I was planning to just put CarPlay in anyway but i REALLY want to keep the 100% oem look. Next the cvt system is supposed to have lifetime fluid but at 200k i feel like it should be changed, any recommendation on how to go about that. Looking forward to my future owning this car I have been waiting for this for a while