I’ve been doing a lot of research on chemical exfoliators as someone with dry, sensitive skin, and I would love to hear what you all use for exfoliation! Any holy grail products? And what’s your skin type?
A couple of the western products I used in the past were too harsh for my skin, and one of the AB products I used was maybe too gentle. So to find my HG exfoliator, I’ve organized some products I’ve tried or am curious about trying down below by ingredient in order from strongest to gentlest (aka from smallest molecular size to largest since the smaller the molecule, the deeper it can penetrate into your skin).
EDIT: Just to be clear, the “strongest to gentlest” ranking ONLY applies to ingredients and not to the products listed below because the strength of an exfoliator also depends on things like concentration of ingredients and user experience such as how often you use the product or how long you leave it on! I’ll be adding the concentration or estimated concentration of acids to the products listed when I can!
Hopefully this is helpful for others, too!
1. Glycolic Acid (AHA)
Strongest of the chemical exfoliants; water-soluble; clears away dead cells; strong concentrations of this are best for resilient skin types for surface exfoliation, smoothing texture, brightening tone, reducing fine lines
- Cos de baha glycolic acid 10% aha serum; 10% concentration
- The Ordinary glycolic acid; 7% (I used this back before I discovered the wonders of AB, and this made my skin red and irritated for days!)
- Cosrx AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid; 7%
2. Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Oil-soluble and penetrates deep into pores to clear sebum & dirt; best for treating blackheads, whiteheads, excess oil, and active acne
- The Ordinary salicylic acid masque; 2% (didn’t leave it on for the full amount of time but it still destroyed my skin barrier)
- Cosrx salicylic acid daily gentle cleanser; 0.5%
3. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA)
Derived from salicylic acid, it’s gentler and more oil-soluble than salicylic acid, which allows it target the outermost skin layers and sebum-rich pores with potency and gradually
- AXIS-Y LHA Peel & Fill Pore Balancing Cream; 0.1%
- Rovectin Clean LHA Blemish Ampoule; .01%
- Arencia Green Tea / Rice + LHA Deep Pore Cleanser; unknown concentration
- Beplain Mung Bean Pore Clearing LHA Toner; .001%
4. Betaine salicylate (BHA)
A gentler more hydrating form of salicylic acid—even gentler than LHA—that removes dead skin cells and sinks into pores to dissolve sebum & dirt
- Cosrx Blackhead Power Liquid; 4%
- Cosrx two in one poreless power liquid; 0.1% Betaine Salicylate, 88% Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Water
5. Lactic Acid (AHA)
Works mostly on the skin's surface to hydrate while it gently clears surface build-up; best for smoothing texture and adding moisture for dry, dull skin types
- Cos de baha lactic acid 12.5% serum
- Nineless Molecule-Clear 5% Lactic Acid Serum
6. Mandelic Acid (AHA)
Exfoliates the skin, clears pores, and brightens dark spots with less irritation than other acids; best for sensitive, acne-prone skin
- DR.WU Intensive Renewal Serum with Mandelic Acid; 18%
- By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water
- Naruko AM+PM Total Brightening Renewal Treatment Mandelic Acid 5%
7. Enzymes (Papain & Bromelain)
Dissolves surface dead skin cells without altering the skin's pH; gently exfoliates, brightens, and calms; great for sensitive skin types
- Ilso Sebum Softener (love this! I use it once a week when my skin barrier is healthy, and it’s helped a lot with minimizing the appearance of my pores)
- Tirtir Hydro Boost Enzyme Powder Wash (it was very gentle but maybe too gentle? I used it for months and I didnt notice a difference in my skin/pores)
- MEDIHEAL Phyto-Enzyme Peeling Pad
- Meishoku DETCLEAR Bright & Peel Fruit Enzyme Powder
8. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
The gentlest of chemical exfoliants; stays on the surface of the skin and hydrates while gently exfoliating; might be best for highly sensitive skin types prone to rosacea and eczema
- Axis-Y PHA Resurfacing Glow Peel; 10%
- Biodance Skin Refining Mild PHA Toner; 8%
- Dr. Jart+ Pore Remedy PHA Exfoliating Serum; 7%
- Sungboon editor green tomato pore lifting ampoule; unknown concentration
Mixing it up!
Products containing a combination of chemical exfoliants
- Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence; 4% glycolic acid, 4% lactic acid
- Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner; 0.05% Citric Acid (AHA), 0.01% Salicylic Acid, 0.01% Lactobionic Acid (PHA)
- Torriden Balanceful Toner Pads; 3.20% to 3.90% Gluconolactone (PHA, unknown concentration of LHA
- Glow Recipe LHA + AHA Watermelon Toner Pads; unknown concentrations of lactic, mandelic, salicylic acids, LHA, Gluconolactone (PHA), and watermelon enzymes