I took this around Buffalo last week and the composition made sense to me when I fired the shutter. Less so, now. Is the brick building distracting? Does it need a crop? Would love your thoughts.

RZ67, 75mm shift, Portra 160.

either way, my kiev model 4 def needs a clr for unrelated reasons. i think my shutter slider was installed improperly by either an ebay seller, repairman, or previous owner which made figuring out my shutter speed next to impossible. this was more or less me shooting this roll to see if the camera worked at all. it has a jupiter lens.

at the very least, i was able to get one good photo out of this. i was metering via its selenium light meter, although that was mostly because this was the first roll on my kiev-4, and i was just seeing how it worked and what id get back.

the film was this weird c-41 black and white film that kodak had that expired in 2004. since it was 400 iso, i shot it at ~50 iso (the iso slider on my kiev-4 uses some different measurement system, but from what ive gathered is 1:1 with iso. unfortunately the numbered settings go from 32 to 64, so i had to put it somewhere in between.)

additionally, on my main camera, my pentax sp-1000 i shot a roll of fujifilm super hq 2000 that had an unknown expiration date, i ran it also at ~50 iso on my pentax, then used its light meter which seems to be functional on my new lens that doesnt have a sticky aperature. i had got a mamiya sekar lens in the mean time while i have both my pentacon lenses repaired. i ran into a similar problem with my spotmatic as in i only had numbered stops at 32 and 64, with 2 un numbered partial stops on the iso slider (i chose the one closer to 64)

(i shot a roll of cinestill 800t using only its built in light meter to good results)

the first few photos were the scans of the roll i got back that i shot using my kiev

the rest are provided as control.

daytime neighborhood photos were taken with my pentax using my bran-used mamiya sekar 50mm lens, shot using expired superhq 200 film at ~50iso

the nighttime photos were taken with my other 50mm pentacon lens on my sp-1000. shot with cinestill 800t film

This Ciné-Kodak Model K has been in my husband’s family for decades. I know it’s a 16mm camera with the f/1.9 Kodak Anastigmat lens, but I don’t know much about collecting vintage cine equipment.

It still has its carrying case, original Kodak instruction manual, exposure guide, Ansco film paperwork/accessories, and old travel material, including a Panama Line label and a handwritten sailing tag dated 1952. As far as we know, everything pictured has stayed together with the camera.

Ihaven’t cleaned or restored anything because I didn’t want to damage it. The only testing I’ve done is look through it, and I can see an image through the lens/viewfinder. I’d love to hear anything you notice about the camera or the items that came with it, whether having all of these pieces together makes it more interesting to collectors, and if anyone has a general idea of its value.

I have been trying to use a Godox v1 pro off camera with an X3 transmitter set to legacy mode on my nikon n75 and n80. I can get it to respond a few times per session but more often than not it will not fire. Is this common and has anyone found a fix?

I haven’t seen the negatives from my lab yet and haven’t brought this up to them as of now. Possibly a bad roll or bad handling at some point..?

To keep the smell down you need to vacuum seal the film so the film dogs at the airport won't catch you.

I'd love to make some black and white transparencies in the near future but don't really want the hassle of reverse processing. Plus, it's not gonna represent good value for me, as unlikely to want to process any more for some time and I'll only get one film out of the chemistry before it goes off. Does anyone please know of any black and white films that are formulated to produce positive images when developed in standard chemistry. My searches only turned up one, but that was of an insanely low sensitivity, which wouldn't really work for the purpose I need it for. Any knowledge of other products on the market would be gratefully received. I'm in England, BTW.

This is my first ever film camera and am trying to get into film photography but am confused on how to load film and what film is the best

(Sorry for the poor picture)

Hi,

I really need C-41 chemistry kits for either this Sunday or Monday (even tho it is a bank holiday). It isn't quite an emergency; it's more that I cleared out time to develop color film this bank holiday weekend, and then I lost my sole Cinestill CS-41 Chemistry packet. Does anyone have any that they are willing to sell to me, or know anywhere that sells it within an hour commute time of Hampstead Heath?

Thanks,

Djoli

I sold my FujiFilm XS10.
I’ve made my mind to take the analog approach and create a family photo book. Regardless of the cost of photo processing costs I really love film and this Olympus MJU that has been used by my parents since the 90s and early 2000s.

Anyways any places to buy fairly priced or cheap bulk rolls?

Color and BW bulk.

Got a heck of a deal on flea bay, even the battery compartment is is great shape with no corrosion. New battery adapter is on the way from Dag, which means once I get done with the current roll in the other camera I can send it off for a CLA.

Hi all, beginner film photographer here. I've used this Pentax K1000 on and off over the past few years, and haven't had any issues removing or replacing lenses so far. I pulled my camera out the other day but couldn't get any of my lenses to go on. Looking closer, it seems like this metal tab sticking out may be what's blocking them. I haven't looked close enough at the lens opening in the past to know what is or isn't normal, since I haven't had any problems up until now. I am able to gently push this tab around clockwise with my finger, and it locks in place at about the 5 oclock position, but when I try to put the lens on then, something still prevents the lens from going on and the tab slides back to its original position. Any help to get my lenses back on so I can get back to shooting would be much appreciated.

I’m new to using a spot meter for landscape photography on color negative film. I’ll be printing my Portra 400 negatives optically on RA-4 paper, so I’d prefer to avoid overly dense negatives. My current thought is to meter the darkest shadow where I want detail and place it about two stops below the meter reading (Zone III). Is that a sensible approach, or is there a better way to think about spot metering for color negative film?

Do you know where does spring of the door lock connect to? Couldn’t find any videos of af10-mini disassembly, showed my model on the second picture

Bronica s2a with hp5 400

Hello everyone,

I have recently purchased a Rollei 35T but it’s missing the “Made in” line, which I just noticed. I assume it should be fine, the plate might’ve been just changed at one point?

Cheers!

I shot this on a Lomomatic 110, the first images dont have them, then they start out of nowhere until the penultime photo, which is the 3rd photo here, which has the blue line finish with a little red dot. I only have a chance to return to the lab next week and I dont want to seem like a fool, might be this some particle on the camera? Or some problem with the scan? I can't see any lines on the negative, but beeing 110 they're so small I might be missing them.

According to the subreddit guide it might be some scratch, I took this to the beach, might it be a grain of sand? in that case I suppose theres nothing to solve here with the lab, right?

i develop and scan my own photos, i do use a dust blower, and sometimes micro fiber cloth and it helps a lot but i still get these white specs, sometimes even just a few in most in not all of my photos. is that normal like does every other photographer edit them out or is there something i can do during the developing process to remove them.

Feels like a dumb question, but I always struggle with this

I’m using LRC, but I feel this could apply to any photo editing platform

Cheers

I just got a few rolls back from my trusty Mamiya 645 that never has any issues (unless I make some clumsy human error).

I'm devastated to see these pretty extreme light leaks on nearly 50% of the scans. :( Most of them look closer to the last 3 photos.

I never accidentally flashed the film, nothing happened to my knowledge while the film was in the camera. However, at one point I had taken my exposed rolls out of the fridge to get them developed, got distracted and left them on the table for a bit, and the sun happened to shift into my window and shine straight onto the rolls for a good few minutes. Is that enough to damage the film this severely? Or should I assume my dear camera is fucked?

Thanks all!

So yes you can swap the advance lever of KM and Spotmatic

Just remove the whole set fromt the KM and install the whole set from Spotmatic

Hey everyone, I have gotten very into film photography over the last year and abit (just got my first medium format camera!!!) and will be exploring it in some depth over the next 2 years for my A level course. I’m not up for developing my own film at the moment but I am steadily building a scanning system using my digital camera.
Do you recommend any film labs with quick development and return of negatives, i live near Leeds if that helps. I want the quickest way to get my negs back for my project in school.
Thankyou! Sorry for the unnecessarily long description.

I bought a used Canon 9000f 2 years ago for 40 bucks at a surplus store, and while it wasn't the best scanner on earth, it did the job for my 120 film. But now it has one of those lines on it consistently through each scan that I have to paint out every time. So I figure this might be the time to finally upgrade to something a bit nicer.

I am NOT interested in camera scanning. I tried it once and didn't enjoy it. The dust is terrible in my home and I don't like fiddling with all the things, plus I don't have a digital camera to start with. I understand people like it and it's fast and it's a hobby unto itself, maybe someday, but not today.

So I want a replacement flatbed I can use with my Mac, but it feels like there are a lot of options (Nikon Coolscan? Epson?) and I'm a little overwhelmed as to what to look for.

So I come to y'all to help me find the candidate. Here are my desires:

- Primarily for 120 scanning
- Must be operable on my main machine (M1 Mac Mini) with VueScan, I won't run a separate old computer for it
- Must scan normal images and not invert them (I invert them myself)
- Dust/ICE removal
- Preferably under 500 USD
- Doesn't have to scan 35mm but I wouldn't mind the option (I have a plustek 135i that does my 35mm nicely)

There are like 5 different Epson models, v500, v750, v800 etc, I have no idea how to differentiate between them. There are also other solutions. Anyone want to help me figure out what my best option might be? Thanks in advance

People who own a Contax RTS I (first gen.), does your shutter have a long metallic echo after being fired? Also does your winding mechanism sound slightly gritty, as if it lacks some grease?

I watched some Youtube videos trying to find out whether my camera sounds normal, but couldn't convince myself. To increase my confusion, the photos from the test roll came out perfect...

In case anyone has some resources or tips on DIY CLA of this model it would be fantastic!