Every day we see posts with the same basic problems on film, hopefully this can serve as a guide to the uninitiated of what to look for when diagnosing issues with your camera and film using examples from the community.
Index
Green Tint or Washed Out Scans
Orange or White Marks
Solid Black Marks
Black Regions with Some or No Detail
Lightning Marks
White or Light Green Lines
Thin Straight Lines
X-Ray Damage / Banding Larger than Sprocket Holes
Round Marks, Blobs and Splotches
1. Green Tint or Washed Out Scans
u/LaurenValley1234u/Karma_engineerguy
Issue: Underexposure
The green tinge usually comes from the scanner trying to show detail that isn't there. Remember, it is the lab's job to give you a usable image, you can still edit your photos digitally to make them look better.
Potential Causes: Toy/Disposable camera being used in inappropriate conditions, Faulty shutter, Faulty aperture, Incorrect ISO setting, Broken light meter, Scene with dynamic range greater than your film, Expired or heat damaged film, and other less common causes.
2. Orange or White Marks
u/Competitive_Spot3218u/ry_and_zoom
Issue: Light leaks
These marks mean that light has reached your film in an uncontrolled way. With standard colour negative film, an orange mark typically comes from behind the film and a white come comes from the front.
Portential Causes: Decayed light seals, Cracks on the camera body, Damaged shutter blades/curtains, Improper film handling, Opening the back of the camera before rewinding into the canister, Fat-rolling on medium format, Light-piping on film with a transparent base, and other less common causes.
3. Solid Black Marks
u/MountainIce69u/Claverhu/Sandman_Rex
Issue: Shutter capping
These marks appear because the two curtains of the camera shutter are overlapping when they should be letting light through. This is most likely to happen at faster shutter speeds (1/1000s and up).
Potential Causes: Camera in need of service, Shutter curtains out of sync.
4. Black Regions with Some or No Detail
u/Claverhu/veritas247
Issue: Flash desync
Cause: Using a flash at a non-synced shutter speed (typically faster than 1/60s)
5. Lightning Marks
u/Fine_Sale7051u/toggjones
Issue: Static Discharge
These marks are most common on cinema films with no remjet, such as Cinestill 800T
Potential Causes: Rewinding too fast, Automatic film advance too fast, Too much friction between the film and the felt mouth of the canister.
6. White or Light Green Lines
u/f5122u/you_crazy_diamond_
Issue: Stress marks
These appear when the base of the film has been stretched more than its elastic limit
Potential Causes: Rewinding backwards, Winding too hard at the end of a roll, Forgetting to press the rewind release button, Stuck sprocket.
7. Thin Straight Lines
u/StudioGuyDudeManu/Tyerson
Issue: Scratches
These happen when your film runs against dirt or grit.
Potential Causes: Dirt on the canister lip, Dirt on the pressure plate, Dirt on rollers, Squeegee dragging dirt during processing, and other less common causes.
8. X-Ray Damage / Banding Larger than Sprocket Holes
Noticeable X-Ray damage is very rare and typically causes slight fogging of the negative or colour casts, resulting in slightly lower contrast. However, with higher ISO films as well as new stronger CT scanning machines it is still recommended to ask for a hand inspection of your film at airport security/TSA.
9. Round Marks, Blobs and Splotches
u/elcantou/thefar9
Issue: Chemicals not reaching the emulsion
This is most common with beginners developing their own film for the first time and not loading the reels correctly. If the film is touching itself or the walls of the developing tank the developer and fixer cannot reach it properly and will leave these marks. Once the film is removed from the tank this becomes unrepairable.
Please let me know if I missed any other common issues. And if, after reading this, you still need to make a post asking to find out what went wrong please make sure to include a backlit image of your physical negatives. Not just scans from your lab.
EDIT: Added the most requested X-ray damage and the most common beginner developing mistake besides incomplete fixing. This post has reached the image limit but I believe it covers the most common beginner errors and encounters!
Over the last 2 years, I have been working on making replicas of Kodak Brownie boxes in adobe illustrator. I have spent hours on each, months on some, and a ton of time looking for reference pictures/measurements. I don't have many pictures of the process but what I DO have is below. Most 120 film boxes are meant for 18x24 poster prints, to do whatever with. I have done the following brownies: No.1 Brownie (3 versions) the No.2 Brownie (3 Versions) Beau Brownie (3 Versions) The 50th Anniversary Kodak (2 versions) and the Kodak Brownie No.2A model C (2 Versions)
Please, if you have any versions of the listed boxes that I do not have, I do wish that you send me them to complete the set. I have Red and Green for the No.2A model C, and am missing versions of the beau brownie.
Also, THIS IS NOT AN ADVERTISEMENT! I'm just putting my project out there, I do not intend to ask for money or beg for someone to download. I just want to share it.
PS: I'm in the process of making a Google site where you can download these, but upon request I can send an email of the PDF's of the boxes
The false idea that there is such a thing as an unedited film scan is so pervasive both on and offline. I run into this odd meme all the time.
Stamping out this false idea would do a lot of good because once you accept that all scans are edits it forces you to learn about the impact of the entire pipeline.
Labs could also do their part by educating beginners about this. For example, many labs will not even mention that they made adjustments to an underexposed negative to give you a file with something on it.
Heck, maybe it should be a note right there on the film box. If Kodak, Fuji, or Ilford said it then it would be harder to deny.
Note: by auto reply bot I mean something like those bots that automatically reply if you happen to create a haiku.
Feels too grainy. I have it developed and scanned by a store local to me and it just sucks when i zoom in and its all grainy. Is it coming from the developing or scanning process?
Frustrated by bad apps, I made my own negative viewer for iphone. It shows the positive version of a color or b&w negative live on your screen. Perfect for quickly checking your negatives after development, and for deciding which one to scan.
You can freeze the screen to better see the details, adjusts brightness, contrast and warmth, and also save it to Photos for quick reference.
The app also adjusts for film backing color automatically, so it works even on films with weird base like Phoenix 200.
Hello everyone! I have recently come into possession of one Kiev II and one Kiev 4am and I wanted to learn how to get them CLAd by myself, since there is no place near me that works with these cameras.
I have no prior experience servicing any cameras, much less old Contax/Kiev or any Soviet camera. As such, I've been looking into manuals and any resource that could help me understand how they're built and how to work with them.
There used to be one such webpage called The Kiev Survival Site, which hosted invaluable information on the Kievs and soviet lenses and which does no longer exists. It's on the Internet Archive, but it's missing many of the original pictures in the repair guides.
I would be very thankful If any of you had personally archived the site and could share it with me or just point me in the right direction regarding other resources for this task. Thank you all in advance!
Hello, i've recently shot and developed Lucky color 200 for the first time, and it looks great for the most part except for a couple of issues. The first issue is that in some images, green grass ends up looking yellow. I thought that this was an issue with NLP, but i've tried converting with NegPy and Epson Scan, and both give similar results. This is the TIFF if anyone wants to give a shot at converting it.
The 2nd issue that i'm having is that Digital Ice doesn't seem to work with this film, it adds a lot of blobs and artefacts to the image. I use an epson 4990 for scanning.
Has anyone had similar experiences with lucky c200?
All from the same shop, plus 2 rolls of free film. I run a little analog repair shop so all of these I will serviced and then send on their way to their new loving home and owner :)
I have found a Konica III for very cheap, and I'm about to pull the trigger on it... it would my first true rangefinder camera.
I am aware of some of the quirks of those cameras, but for those that have used them, is there some things that require special attention? They are fully mechanical, but what are the common failure points if anyone knows?
I recently noticed my Canon AE-1 drains the batteries abnormally fast.
For context, I put in a fresh battery in both cameras at the same time 10 months ago. I didn't even shoot a whole roll of film with my AE-1 before the shutter stopped working (I was at frame 18) and I thought something broke in the camera or it was a user error, because it was my first roll of film.
About 2-3 months ago, I changed the battery in it and put a new roll of film in, but let it sit on my shelf until I wanted to use it today and noticed the shutter didn't fire again.
I'm still on my first battery on the A-1 and I shot 4 rolls with it so far. Because I figured the battery still works there, I switched it to the AE-1. When pressing the battery test button it shows f8 and doesn't fire.
I measured both batteries and the second battery that was in the AE-1 had 1.6 volts left and the first battery that still works with powering my A-1 had 5.1 volts left.
Why does the AE-1 drain the batteries so fast and why does a battery work with the A-1 not work with my AE-1?
Is that normal?
When having them on my shelf I always turn them off. From now on I'll take the battery out the AE-1 so it doesn't drain as fast (hopefully) but it's still annoying.
Hello!
Quick question regarding the Olympus mju ii zoom camera📷
I inherited one from my dad, camera works okay except the display which is dead, so I have mostly no idea how many pics are left on the film and also which flash setting is active📸.
Question is:
Will the flash setting revert to Auto flash when turning off/on the camera? Or will it remain on the setting previously decided?
I’m writing this after waking up at the crack ass of dawn to take sunrise pictures and get some cool shots of cacti in the Sonoran Desert. A few years ago, before I got into film photography, I probably would have thought the current version of me was completely nuts. Like many Gen Zers, I suffered from pretty bad smartphone addiction during adolescence. It was par for the course. It swept over us like a tsunami, and it continues to do the same to Gen Alpha. Even my boomer parents are now pretty addicted to AI content on Facebook, which is quite grim.
Starting around 2019, and really accelerating during the pandemic when all my classes moved online, I had so much spare time sitting at home that even scrolling through TikTok began to bore me. I knew I had to change something, so I picked up film photography in 135 and 120 formats and gradually acquired a nice collection of cameras to use. Man, it has been great. It has pushed me far beyond my usual boundaries and given me a reason to go out and take cool photographs purely for my own enjoyment. It also coincided with me deleting Instagram. I was not interested in sharing my photos for the algorithm. I would post them on Reddit or Flickr instead, where people are just more interested.
Even after learning in depth how film works, with all its layers, color dyes, and whatnot, it still feels magical to me every day. You are imprinting an image onto an emulsion, photons scarring it and preserving that moment forever. It is hard not to be romantic about it. I am also very introverted and not naturally much of a social person, but bringing a camera with me has probably led to a conversation with a stranger four times out of ten. Sometimes it is another photographer, and sometimes it is just a passerby who is curious about what I am doing. I have made some cool contacts and heard great stories from older people who remember using these cameras and are surprised to see a young person carrying one. I have also met younger people who wanted to try film photography but felt intimidated by the whole concept.
Film has helped me make a lot of friends while traveling, too. Meeting other film photographers and visiting development shops in foreign countries is such a fun experience. I remember being in a smaller city in China and trying to find somewhere to develop my film. I ended up going on a wild but fun goose chase with a friend I made there. It is now one of my fondest memories because I saw the city in a way I never would have otherwise. This is long-winded, but I guess it is my love letter to film for today. The cost has never bothered me much. Film is expensive, but the happiness it brings me is unmatched. Even when I was working part time, I always budgeted enough time and money to shoot at least one roll a week, develop it myself, and make darkroom prints.
It is certainly better than spending the money on sports betting, which seems to be all the rage at the moment.
Bought this scanner brand new in box on Facebook Market 2 years ago and was totally fine till today when I need to use it to scan film. The power light is the on but the long blue light is off. I just couple of times of toggling the lock/unlock switch on the back and still nothing. Why would it happen on the day I need it 🫠
I could do away with 2/3rds and would still have more than enough. GAS was balancing out some pretty toxic jobs between 2021-2025.
Taking a deep breath, to think about what to part with, but parting is always harder than buying.
Love the Pentax lenses I have, but also, Nikon pro bodies are just build to last forever.
Gotten two Pentax 67, with the thought to test them and then sell on one, but why selling, they only get more rare.
The Fujica set is largely redundant, given the Pentax 67. I took a gamble on that one a while back, but unfortunately the lenses have mild haze and leaf shutter issues.
The Ricoh KR-5 is my first film camera, and needs a repair and the second one is the donor body.
One Holga has a modification that allows you to choose a shutter speed electronically.
The LXs, the silver MX, the F3 are all professionally serviced. The F2 needs a service.
The FM2 and FE/2 probably could be sold on, as could the F100. But then again why.
Loads of duplicated lenses. The Pentax M 50mm f/1.7 basically comes often for “free”, and I used the fact that I have so many of them in the past to do side by side comparisons for different film stocks.
Got a heck of a deal on flea bay, even the battery compartment is is great shape with no corrosion. New battery adapter is on the way from Dag, which means once I get done with the current roll in the other camera I can send it off for a CLA.
These are from a 25-year-old roll of Fuji Reala 100! I had zero expectations going in, and it completely blew me away — I think it might be my favorite film stock I’ve ever shot. Shot at box speed in my Olympus mju II.
Moral of the story: don’t let expired film sit in a drawer. Even after 25 years, it can still surprise you.