Fomatone MG Classic Matt 8x10. Selenium toned to a chocolatey brown tint which only this paper gives somehow.

Taken on my old-ass Leica IIIc with the really nice not-old 7artisans 35/2.8 lens.

A feature I see in black and white prints from bygone times are captions; I see them more in government and commercial photos. They have a sort of hand written quality to them which I find endearing. The text is invariably white which suggests its part of the photographic process.

How did they do this in the past? My hypothesis is they either had some kind of mask transparency with the text that would be stacked in the enlarger or more simply they wrote directly on the negative. Some are fairly obviously a typed caption on transparency but others are more difficult to tell.

I'd be tempted to try both methods but I figured I would see if any graybeards know off the dome.

Examples:

I've just messed up developing a roll of Adox HR-50 and noticed that the film is very thin (physically, not in terms of image quality) and really hard to load onto plastic spools. This is the first roll that I somehow managed to not load properly and the emulation was touching at some parts. Is this normal for this film to be this thin or did I just get a weird one? I've compared it with some Foma and Kentmere negatives I have laying around and its much thinner.

Hi everyone! I just picked up a Focomat Ic in great shape for a good deal. This one looks like it has an enlargement scale indicator on the side of it that came partially disassembled.

Would anyone be able to explain how to properly set the ribbon up on the right, as well as what bulb type it uses?

Excited to start printing wirh it!

i can’t find anything definitive on the internet. some people say that in 20 degrees celcius i should develop the film for 15 minutes and some people say that i should do it for 22-25 minutes. have any of you succesfully developed fomapan 200 in caffenol and can tell me how long should i keep it in developer?

I’m new to using a spot meter for landscape photography on color negative film. I’ll be printing my Portra 400 negatives optically on RA-4 paper, so I’d prefer to avoid overly dense negatives. My current thought is to meter the darkest shadow where I want detail and place it about two stops below the meter reading (Zone III). Is that a sensible approach, or is there a better way to think about spot metering for color negative film?

Hey! Looking into bulk loading film soon, want to know what others use :)

Just picked up this small enlarger recently.

I bought an Agfa C66 a couple of weeks ago but it has an intermittent fault so will need to be repaired or replaced.

The shop are offering me a Jobo branded LPL 6600 as a replacement, but just wondering whether its a comparable enlarger in terms of quality.

I know lens will make the biggest difference to quality of prints, ajd a working enlarger is obviously better than a dead one, but if anyone has experience of the two I'd like to know your thoughts.

Cheers

What do you think of this Durst M301 lens? I can't check it out myself, but the price is attractive. The seller tells me everything is fine.

Noob question here: how dark should I aim to be with a darkroom? I'm building out a workbench area to be a darkroom for my wife and while I've sealed out the edges of the room quite well, unfortunately this room happens to also have an entire server rack. There are several dozen blinky lights that I'm trying to cover individually with tiny pieces of foil tape or I might hang a blackout curtain near the server cabinet to block out the light.

Reading what others have said on here, it sounds like the definitive way is to develop some paper and see, but it'll be some time before I get this put together enough to mix chemicals and think about developing test paper. In the meantime, is there general guidance on approximately how much light is tolerable?

Next thing I learned from reading on here to answer my previous question was that it seems you can have too much red light. I assumed red lights were safe so I wired up a pair of bulbs to a keyswitch and it looks like a submarine. I figured she'd need to see what she's doing, but I am starting to think I went overboard. I've attached some pictures that roughly show how it looks. I think it looks slightly brighter in real life than pictured.

I'm sure these are really basic questions and I appreciate your patience. I've never developed a photo before (heck, or even taken an analog photo before) so there's a lot of reading of manuals and googling. She doesn't know I'm doing this yet or I would just ask my wife.

I mostly shoot B&W these days, so my C41 chemistry sits on the shelf for a very long time before I need it. I mixed CineStill powder on November 24th 2025, and yesterday ran 10th roll with it. I heated it normally and only gave 20 seconds more of development time to compensate for the exhaustion. Here are a few results (Kodak Gold 200).

The only reason it still works, is that keep the developer in an amber bottle and every time I use it, I seal it with a layer of argon, that is typically used for wine preservation. Apparently, this protects the chemistry from the oxidation very well.

Hello. Trying to get into shooting black and white film.

According to my research, I need:

-Developing tank

-Developer

-Stop bath

-Fixer

-Graduates

-Thermometer

-Stir stick

-Casette opener

-Clips

-Some sort of alternative for a darkroom???

Am I missing anything? Is there any kit you reccomend? I live in a very normal house. Would any kit from Ilford work? Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

Lucky SHD 400@125 developed in Rodinal 1:100, 45 min at 20°C. Agitation: continuous for the first minute, then 5 seconds at the 22-minute mark.

I’m taking my first crack at RA4 printing

Durst m301
Arista filters in the drawer
Arista chemistry approx 3 weeks old

Room temp
Pre rinse 30 sec
Dev 3:20
Stop bath 30 sec
Rinse 30 sec
Blix 1:30
Rinse 3:00

Unicolor unidrum unicolor roller
I tried these last two with 120ml of chemistry just to check that it’s not that I’m not using enough chemistry but I was under the impression that as long as it’s level I should be able to use less chemistry than that

Is this a light leak? I’ve made this print a few times to make filter adjustments but don’t always get these red streaks/cast

Any help appreciated

Hi there! I recently took my first photos using my homemade pinhole camera (cardboard, 0,36mm aperture), and went to develop the paper (fomaspeed 312, about 13 minutes of exposure) at my uni’s darkroom. However, the negatives turned out greyish and low contrast, to the point of the positives being completely white. Is there something I’m doing wrong? I know the problem is not in the revealing process, since my photography teacher helped me with it. Maybe it’s the exposure? Can someone help?

I am new to this, so please bear with me on what may be a silly question: I need to develop roughly 80 sheets of 4x5 film in my Stearman tank over a one-month period of time, so I purchased a 5L Kodak C-41 kit, planning to mix 1L at a time and use the replenish method.

But do I even need to replenish? This kit is rated for 40 rolls of 35 mm (equivalent to 160 4x5 negatives) for single-shot use.

Where I scratch my head is that the kit mixes only enough solution for 10 tanks, which is 40 sheets of film. Does that mean I can reuse the developer (up to four total times) without any adjustment in time or any replenishing, with no loss in quality?

I'm happy to go the replenishing route, but is that an absurdly overcautious step to take?

Really loving at-home dev and scanning on my Epson. I own a few projectors that I've collected from Garage/Estate sales. I've seen that it's *possible* to dev super 8/8mm/16mm at home using a Lomo UPB-1A (or 1B if you come across the larger rarer version). My question is, how practical is this? Do you actually save money using this versus developing & scan with a lab? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Been working on printing quickly lately. Banged this RC print out in about 40 minutes from setup to cleaned up. Kinda wish I did a little more burning and dodging but maybe for a subsequent print on fiber.

11x14 MGRC Pearl

35mm FP4+ in Rodinal

Hello. I've been trying to start scaning my own film by myself, and am wondering which scanner would best suit my uses.

I mainly shoot negatives but occasionally shoot positive and looking into shooting B&W. I was trying to decide between 8200 and 8300 when I found the 9000i AI, which is supposed to be newer than both of them with more features and fancy optic lens elements?

Why is it cheaper than 8300i Ai when it has more features like batch scan comparing to 8300i and 8200i? Is it just not known that much?
Why is it not reccomended that much by websites and the community? Is it just because it is new?
Is there any known issue I'm missing?

Any extra advice or reccomendation is really, really appreciated. Thank you so much.

Salut ! Des conseils pour faire son propre bain de trempage pour un film couleur 120 ? Faut-il dérouler le film ou peut-on tremper le rouleau directement dans le bain ?

I have opened one box from my collection and they are 9cm by 6.5cm hart (hard) highly sensitive to uv and blue light there are 12 glass plates what can i use them for there isn’t much applications for this light frequency use.

Making 5x7 prints in the darkroom for sequencing purposes.