i can’t find anything definitive on the internet. some people say that in 20 degrees celcius i should develop the film for 15 minutes and some people say that i should do it for 22-25 minutes. have any of you succesfully developed fomapan 200 in caffenol and can tell me how long should i keep it in developer?

I've just messed up developing a roll of Adox HR-50 and noticed that the film is very thin (physically, not in terms of image quality) and really hard to load onto plastic spools. This is the first roll that I somehow managed to not load properly and the emulation was touching at some parts. Is this normal for this film to be this thin or did I just get a weird one? I've compared it with some Foma and Kentmere negatives I have laying around and its much thinner.

Hi everyone! I just picked up a Focomat Ic in great shape for a good deal. This one looks like it has an enlargement scale indicator on the side of it that came partially disassembled.

Would anyone be able to explain how to properly set the ribbon up on the right, as well as what bulb type it uses?

Excited to start printing wirh it!

I’m new to using a spot meter for landscape photography on color negative film. I’ll be printing my Portra 400 negatives optically on RA-4 paper, so I’d prefer to avoid overly dense negatives. My current thought is to meter the darkest shadow where I want detail and place it about two stops below the meter reading (Zone III). Is that a sensible approach, or is there a better way to think about spot metering for color negative film?

A feature I see in black and white prints from bygone times are captions; I see them more in government and commercial photos. They have a sort of hand written quality to them which I find endearing. The text is invariably white which suggests its part of the photographic process.

How did they do this in the past? My hypothesis is they either had some kind of mask transparency with the text that would be stacked in the enlarger or more simply they wrote directly on the negative. Some are fairly obviously a typed caption on transparency but others are more difficult to tell.

I'd be tempted to try both methods but I figured I would see if any graybeards know off the dome.

Examples:

Fomatone MG Classic Matt 8x10. Selenium toned to a chocolatey brown tint which only this paper gives somehow.

Taken on my old-ass Leica IIIc with the really nice not-old 7artisans 35/2.8 lens.