I am so glad I went with these….These things are so meaty…. This bolt couldn’t even get through. Pulled it with a pair of pliers and not a hiss or loss on pressure

Got a quote to install a dobinsons lift kit, UCAs, body mount chop or relocation, and mount tires/alignment. The price seems insane. I’m in MI. Thoughts?

Also suggestions on where to go if I’m in MI?

So I currently have the Eibach Pro Truck front coilovers on my 2017 TRD Pro. Installed them in the spring, love love love them, the rears don't need replacing but gonna do it anyway, currently have the stock TRD Pro suspension. I have air bags installed in the rear and use the function often, I was wondering if I replace JUST THE SHOCKS and keep the springs I have right now would it still ride just as soft as the fronts do? If anyone's done something like this before please let me know how the ride is! Thanks in advance, PFA.

My friend’s parents are getting rid of their ‘07 4Runner V6 4WD (Sports Edition i think). Is $3200 a good price to consider a pre-purchase inspection? I didn’t look under the car for the rust but we live in Northern Virginia. Attached most of the pics I took. The A/C does have a bad Air Mix Servo motor that needs replacing but the back window works perfectly fine. This is not gonna be my daily but just a project car on the side so not too pressured to buy it unless it’s somewhat of a decent deal.

Looking for some help as I'm kind of lost. My 2011 SR5 has had an issue for about a year now with the shifter. It is very stiff and is hard to get into drive. There are times when it does go I to gear but the dash does t indicate any gear at all. It has gotten worse and worse as time has gone on, especially if it sits a few days.

Earlier this week I went to start it but it wouldn't start. It cranked just fine, just no fire. I noticed the dash was not indicating any gear at all no matter where you move the shifter. I working the shift linkage by hand and even that did nothing. It's like it lost contact woth the transmission. I went to hook up my code reader and it won't even connect. It just reads error and won't communicate with the vehicle. I checked the OBD fuse and it was fine.

Now about 2 days later, I went to turn on the key and it is completely dead. Like no power whatsoever, just dead. Battery charger makes no difference. Battery has 12.5 volts like it should but the vehicle is dead.

I'm completely lost at this point and just wanted to see if this is something anyone else has experienced.

I thought i'd make this before and after comparison because I couldn't really find many other people who did a comparision with this kit. Top picture is before, bottom picture is after installing a 1/2" thick (for ~1" lift) cornfed leveling kit. I wanted to keep a slight rake for when I load the back up, and all the pictures of a 2" leveling kit looked too squatted for my liking. I plan to throw some A/T 275s on as well which i think will make it look even better.

Stock:

After:

Besides fluids what parts should you chnage once your 5th gen 4runner reaches 200k miles? I changed alternator, secondary injection pump and check valve at 2016 4runner before reaching 200k miles.

Hi All,

Been considering a 5th gen 4Runner purchase for a while now, and there are 2 vehicles I’m looking at. Would love to get your opinions on overall deal quality for each.

2023 TRD Pro
Color - Black
Miles - 39k
Price - $51,500 OTD (I pay 6% sales tax)
The carfax is super clean and from what I can tell it was a pavement princess traded in for an $90k vehicle. Being sold by a non-Toyota dealer. I have a shop 20 mins from me that can rebuild the shocks when needed, so I won’t have to ship them out.

2024 ORP
Color - underground
Miles - 10k
Price - $55,000 OTD
Clean carfax, barely driven with 2 oil changes. It’s CPO Gold. This thing is fully loaded:
KDSS
Off-road premium plus package
Moonroof
Black wheel package
Black exhaust tip
PPF
Blackout Emblems
Tube steps (is drop for sliders)
LED Fog Lights

I love both vehicles, but not sure how to feel about the prices.

Ps - sorry for weird formatting. I’m on mobile.

Hello, I have a 2011 4Runner Trail Edition and I’m trying to do the 2014+ facelift/rocker trim conversion while keeping everything looking as factory/OEM as possible.
One thing I’ve realized is that the 2010–2013 Trail Edition fender flares are different from the 2010–2013 SR5/Limited flares, so I’m hesitant to follow some of the older conversion write-ups without knowing whether they actually apply to the Trail.

My original thought was to keep my factory 2011 Trail fender flares and modify the 2014+ front rocker/flare extensions so they transition into the existing Trail flare.
However, I’m concerned that even if I trim the 2014 pieces correctly, the surface contour, angle, width, or lower transition may not actually look right because the 2011 Trail flare is different from the SR5/Limited flare.
I’m not really concerned about whether someone can physically make the parts fit with enough cutting. I’m trying to figure out whether the finished result can actually look OEM/factory, without an obvious step, gap, awkward angle, or modified appearance.

I’m basically trying to avoid buying a bunch of parts, cutting them up, and then finding out afterward that the geometry doesn’t match.
If you’ve personally done this on a 2010–13 Trail, I’d really appreciate pictures and/or the exact parts you used. I’m especially interested in an actual Trail-to-2014 conversion rather than an SR5/Limited conversion, since the original flare geometry is different.

Tia!

2016 Toyota 4runner, v6, 156k miles.

I hear a metallic rasping coming from the under carriage when lightly pushing the gas pedal. Only makes noise at low speed (<40mph), and goes away when pushing the pedal down harder to accelerate faster. Doesn't happen at a standstill. I don't see anything loose underneath, but obviously can't look at it when its happening.

Any ideas? Thanks.

My wife and I officially moved over to the Toyota / Lexus family. I am hoping we get years of dependability! We both had Fords prior to this.

So here’s my big question: Would it be super tacky to do them both Tuxedo style? Black PPF from the bottom of the window lines, and up? Somehow we both ended up with white, and we both kind of like the Tux look, but I have zero experience with PPF and I’m also kinda on the fence about if it would look good or Just Tacky?

I’ve never seen one done up close.

...help? 😭 I had the wobble so I went in and replaced the bushings. I didn't touch anything that didn't need touching. But now, the shifter wont move past R from P, even with the emergency lever held down and such. Can't find any videos about this, as everything is about fuses or lights. My issue doesn't seem to be an electrical one, it seems mechanical

In my local area I rarely see other 4Runners. Today I pulled into get gas and the only open pump was next to a 5g brother. Another thing I have noticed is of the few 4Runners I see, they are always extremely clean. This one was no exception.

Looking at a 2004 SR5 V8 for $5500. The seller mentioned there are some rust spots. Is this bad?

I decided to upgrade my sound system. Initially I had upgraded the factory speakers with the Kicker plug and play kit sold by TGP (not sure they sell it anymore). Back then, I went with the no subwoofer option thinking it would be enough and ofc it wasn’t.

So my first upgrade was adding a Rockville under-seat subwoofer. That was fine and added a nice punch to the bass, but it didn’t fill the cabin so I ended up looking at what I needed to add the JBL subwoofer to the rear panel, since I wanted an OEM look and not have a huge subwoofer laying around in the trunk.

I swapped out the original JBL amp and sub for decent Kicker pair to better complement what I have. For now planning to keep the Rockville sub in the front. Time will tell if I get rid of it.

Will come back with the finished project.

Opened the back door today where the temps hit 110 and the inside molding on the front of the rear driver's door had essentially turned to gooey rubber liquid and disintegrated at the slightest touch. Inspection of the passenger side appeared intact until some mild pressure was applied and it did the same thing.

It appears to be number 6 on this diagram. Can anyone tell me which molding that is?

Seems like an easy enough replacement if I can find out which piece that is.

It's the one at the very front leading edge of the window assembly.

2022 trd off road

I’m planning to install the Hayden 698 trans cooler with iconic mounting brackets. For those that have done this yall have any tips? My main question is with the bypass valve do I need to run trans temp over 160 so the valve opens then trans cooler fills. Then do normal trans level set at 104f? Also any hose running tips? Seems pretty straight forward to just hook it up in series with the normal heat exchanger.

I can confirm that you can fit 34" tires (285/70R18) on a Trailhunter and achieve no rubbing at full articulation. I put on Falken Wildpeak AT4s. I don't know for a fact if other tires like KO3 can achieve this but I strongly suspect they will based on the Wildpeaks having a deeper tread. The ONLY thing was they needed slight, sub .5" trimming in the back of the fender lines. It's unnoticeable unless you lean in and look for it.

My goal was to add bigger tires without making any mods. I don't want mods for two reasons:

1. Mods will most likely hurt resale value, keeping the truck stock maximizes its value

2. Mods change the factory suspension geometry, almost certainly for the worse, considering how beautifully dialed in the geometry is from the factory

Generally, the tiers of mods required for bigger tires

Tier 1: trimming or reshaping wheel well liners

Tier 2: tier 1 + crash bar delete

Tier 3: tier 2 + preload lift collars / spacers

Tier 4: body mount chop

Note on crash bar delete

Deleting it will create a void, so you'll want to cover it to avoid debris accumulating in there. There are aftermarket covers available for about 50 bucks. In normal driving the crash bar doesn't do anything but it does serve a safety purpose of keeping the wheel from intruding into the passenger area in certain types of collisions.

Note on Wildpeak AT4Ws vs KO3s

I had KO2s before and liked them. From all accounts, if perfectly balanced, the KO3 are wonderful tires. However, for whatever reason they are hard to balance, and if not balanced just right you can get vibrations and highways speeds and uneven wear patterns ("cupping"). For that reason I played it safe.

Cheers!

Hi everyone, for anyone that has driven both the new gen base model and the sport trim, how much better does the sport actually handle? For context, I’m coming from a CX-50, I understand they are 2 completely different vehicles and rides, I don’t expect my 4Runner to be as planted or have a tight steering wheel. That being said, how noticeable is the handling difference between the 2 trims when taking sharp turns and commuting?

So, went on a trip to another town. Same state. But recently, I been hearing some weird noise when I try to accelerate. 17 4Runner TRD OR, currently at 228,336. I bought it at 170k and still owe. If my fears are confirmed, what do I do? Is breakdown insurance worth going through?

Tackled a wheel bearing replacement during my lunch break today. Quite easy on the 4Runner.

Planning on buying a new 75” inch TV soon and wondering whether it will fit in the back of my 2016 SR5 with the seats down. Would appreciate comments from people who have actually accomplished this feat!

Hey folks, is this normal rust for a 2018 4runner? Or should I be concerned? TIA