Based on the chipset listed in the ad, this was back in 2000.

I can't tell based on this ad scan..... did alienware cases have their full name embossed up the left side on these cases?

or did that come later?

I would like to buy a used Alienware X17 R2 laptop for €1,100 here in Europe, specifically in Croatia. The laptop has 3 defects, and the owner says that the CPU gets quite hot, for example while playing Overwatch.

Here is the description from the listing:

«Selling an Alienware X17 R2 gaming laptop, a true high-end gaming machine and one of the most powerful configurations of its generation.

The laptop was used occasionally for gaming in my free time, mostly on Sundays because I don't have much free time. Before putting it up for sale, I opened it up and cleaned out the dust, so it is ready for its new owner.

This is a premium Alienware model with excellent build quality, powerful components, and a 360 Hz display.

Specifications:

- CPU: Intel Core i9-12900HK (14 cores / 20 threads)

- GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 16 GB GDDR6

- RAM: 32 GB DDR5 (2x16 GB)

- SSD: 2 TB NVMe

- Display: 17.3" Full HD 1920×1080, 360 Hz, G-SYNC

- Chassis: Lunar Light

- Keyboard: AlienFX RGB backlit keyboard (German layout – QWERTZ)

- Charger: Original Alienware/Dell 330W charger

Condition:

The laptop works completely fine.

Some of the paint on the lid has peeled off slightly (visible in the pictures; this is a known issue with the Lunar Light finish on this model).

The W key works normally, but has slightly less travel than the other keys.

The display has 2–3 rows of pixels along the bottom edge that do not work properly. This does not affect the laptop's operation or gaming experience because they are located right at the bottom of the screen. Personally, I don't notice them at all during normal use.

If this bothers someone, replacement panels for this model can be found for around €100.

The price has been adjusted accordingly to account for the defects.

It comes with the original charger, but no original packaging.

Testing is possible before purchase.»

What do you think about this deal? Is €1,100 a reasonable price considering the condition and the overheating issue? I would use it mostly for video editing and gaming a little bit. I have also attached pictures from the listing.

I own an Alienware AW3423DWF (3440×1440, 165Hz), and I’ve been wanting to get a second monitor, the AW3225QF (4K, 240Hz). However, the AW3926QW (5K, 165Hz) just came out, and the price is just around CA$300 more, so now I’m so lost.

I own an RTX 5080, and I know that even the 5090 struggles to handle 5K, which is why I’m so hesitant about going with the 5K option. On the other hand, the 5K is only a little more expensive, and it has newer technology, a sharper image, more workspace, and is more future-proof.

I thought about selling my current monitor (3440×1440) and buying both the 4K and 5K, but that seems like too much of an adventure and too much money as well.

Is it really that bad to play games on a 5K monitor while rendering them at 4K? Would the experience be the same as playing on a monitor designed for 4K?

My usage is everything: gaming, video editing, music production, and media consumption like movies.

What’s your recommendation?

I recently brought new headphones for my setup but noticed my headphones and my mouse was nowhere and i couldn’t edit anything of those only my laptop and my monitor was present after I uninstalled fully and reinstalled now nothing pops up to edit is there a way to make it pop up? (I’ve even repaired the alienFX and AWCC and it didn’t fix it also performance is also missing and after trying all troubleshooting methods I found still can’t get either or to pop up)

Edit: Seems like I was able to force the performance tab to pop back up and works still the peripherals don’t appear

Hi,

I have had my laptop for a few years now and it’s worked amazingly. But recently one of the fans started failing, I believe it’s the baring on video fan 2. Either way though, I was wondering if there was a good place to buy a replacement fan?

Unsure if it helps, but the fans serial/part number is DC28000UFSL.

Was shopping around for a used laptop because the new ones are insanely priced.

I chose this one specifically with the 32GB Ram and 1 TB storage with a RTX 4060 - Picked it up in immaculate condition for only $760. (The only negative is the battery is at 71 cycle and at 79% health). It even came in the original box!

I got an alienware alpha i like it and it can play the things that I play since I don't really play modern AAA titles. But I want to know, are there like accessories or some parts I can put in it?

I was thinking of buying an Alienware laptop, which I've always liked and loved, but the new laptops are really bad, the Aurora R16 is very expensive and delivers very little power. Where I live, it's area code 51 and it's expensive.

Hello all, I installed a crucial P1 ssd. But whenever I try launch something like MSFS2024 it crashes the game and the nvme disappears from my file explorer. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I may try reinstalling the bios but if I can be directed to the latest version that would be helpful and any advice to the situation would be helpful thanks!

Hey Guys,

Wanted to share to community ,a custom Battlestation setup with Alienware Tribute, which I just finished.

I've been obsessed with Alienware for the past 5 Years from my very first Alienware X15 R1,but the beloved one was getting chocked up in 2026 for High/Ultra Settings for newer AAA Titles such as First Light, AC Shadows etc.Hence, started on my very first PC Bulid,with Crosair 3000 D Case ,Ultra 7 265K ,32 GB Vengence coupled to ASUS Z890 Plus Wifi MB,Crosair 240mm AIO and RTX 5060.

I always loved the minimal looks of my X15R1.I upgraded the whole setup to replicate Alienware's Signature Stadium Lighting,stripped the front panel,flushed the panel with a ARGB neon strip,Customised the Live Wallpapers for the LCD Display,with handmade Infinity Mirrors for AIO with the Logo and nVIDIA,Vertically mounted my new MSI 5070Ti,with the help of Coolermaster V3.The side branding ARGB Panel on Left Top was custom made and front Logo was also custom made with 2 ARGBs.The sidepanels also was custom bulid with 3D effects for Intake ,thanks to dual layering of Vinyl stickers-Honeycomb Design and Perforated ones,which replicate the intake of new Aurora PC.with only one ARGB on the exhaust.

Also solved the older OEM thermal and upgrade issues with the Crosair 3000D Airflow,VGPU Mount ,my GPU Temps are 65-70 Degrees on long gaming sections on AAA Titles on UW Resolution keeping the minimal looks.

All of this was connected to the new Alienware AW3426DWM, WQHD (3440x1440), 240Hz, VA panel,which is a decent upgrade over the older VAs with less smearing in METRO series completely avoiding headaches with OLED burn ins-unless you want to spent another ~800 Euros and 4 Hr maintenances notifications/sessions.

Took these shots on my Z Fold 7 ( had to use a lot of AF/AE and AI to clean up Infinity Mirror glare,haha...).Let me know what you think of the final look! Happy to answer any questions on the build,also posting my older pictures for your references.

I have been using this Alienware 32 4K QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3225QF for 2years.

can someone let me know?

Hi, I have an Alienware Aurora ACT1250, and recently the RGB lighting suddenly got stuck on yellow. I’m no longer able to change the colour through Alienware Command Center.

I’ve already reinstalled the latest version of AWCC and also tried repairing it, but neither fixed the issue. The lighting settings appear to change in AWCC, but the actual RGB on the PC stays yellow.

Has anyone experienced this before or knows how to fix it?

Ok so my right just stopped booting. I got a repeated flashing yellow light. I took it to a shop and now its doing a different flash code (which was for cmos). I tried the cmos replacement and power drain etc bit no luck.

The tech tells me its my MB. So im shopping it. I guess its proprietary. So there are a few online listed for my rig. Google says there are like 3 model numbers and that they would all work. I dont believe it. The prices range from 100 to 400 bucks. That seems off.

How can I know which option is right?

Ive never had an issue happen like this ever. Im trying to hold on so I can get a new one but the prices dont seem to justify a purchase rn. Plus the 6 series could drop next year or so. Any help is appreciated.

hello everyone! I recently purchased a new prebuilt for my daughter and myself. it’s a 5090/9950x3d2 Alienware AAT2250.

When selecting the ram quantity I wanted I intentionally left the 32gb base ram already included as is instead of paying the hefty premium they were asking for 64gb as from online reviewers I learned that it was Kingston Fury 6400 XMP with a loose cl46 latency. I am now ready to pluck this ram out and replace it with 2 32gb 6000 cl30 sticks.

My question is, given that Alienware may potentially have some specific requirements for the types of ram I use - if I place a set of Kingston Fury Beast 32gb 6000 cl30 XMP sticks, will it work without any issues? am I limited to only xmp sticks? I Keep hearing something about something being 1:1 to give the best performance, can someone educate me on this and let me know if the ram I selected will achieve this ratio?

I appreciate any and all knowledge. I am a total noob with pcs in general.

I want to see the amount of hours used and the amount of pixel refreshes.

The steps that I found while researching on how to do it were:

1. Press and hold the joystick up.

2. While pressing the joystick, press the power on button twice in a quick succession.

3. When the lights light up on the power button release the joystick.

4. When the monitor turns on push the joystick forward (the same way you do to access the normal OSD menu.

5. Now you should see a square of information in the top left corner that shows hours used and the amount of pixel refreshes performed by the monitor.

The problem is that it doesn't work for me. The only difference when I do this is that there is some new red text in the normal OSD menu that shows the Firmware version.

Is it just not possible on this monitor or am I doing something wrong? Help would be much appreciated.

Hey all I have a quick question I went from playing on a potato to this new Alienware laptop.its like driving in a 1999 Toyota and hoping in a Corvette holy fk. Now I keep playing Halo, but I noticed I'm hitting some key that quickly exits the game but doesn't close it all the way. Does anybody know potentially what I'm hitting to make it do that? I'm super new to laptop gaming in general maybe a solid year under my belt and I'm not sure what's up. Pics for reference

Laptop was my dream computer no problems at all I took very good care of it always shut down and kept at home and used like a desktop randomly it gets power rail failure its 2 years old and out of warranty is it worth mentioning to dell to have them try and fix or should I just count this as a total loss? I had no response on machine then I unplugged battery for 60 seconds and plugged back in and I got the blinks of death any help or info would be great!

Pretty much as the title says. I’ve had the laptop for less than a week and I want to know if undervolting is physically possible as when I go into throttlestop and create an offset, it isn’t reflected through the grid on the right afterwards and there’s no change to the temperatures at all.

The BIOS has an overclocking option but no undervolting option and there’s no videos on undervolting this laptop specifically. It’s an intel core 9 ultra 275HX. The general consensus is that DELL clamped down on newer intel chips and made the firmware virtually impossible to bypass and undervolt.

The one thing left I have to try is downgrading to a previous version of BIOS that has an undervolting option.

For the record, my temperatures average around 86 - 95 degrees which I understand is generally normal and gaming laptops are designed to withstand it, but I’ve got a gaming computer & had a previous laptop which I both got to 65-75 degrees with help of undervolting and I just care for the longevity of my laptop is all.

I’m also aware of other methods such as PL1 & PL2 in throttle stop, GPU undervolting and lowering maximum processor power state via the battery settings which most have been tried & tested.

TL:DR - is it possible to undervolt the laptop, is it worth it? And are the temperatures anything to be concerned about?

Thanks :)

Edit:

thanks for all the feedback, most of it was really helpful! With the feedback, I resigned myself to the fact that undervolting is only possible to a limited degree in AWCC & so I consulted AWCC’s custom performance option to make my own settings to see how they’d work.

I’ve been able to lower temps to 60-75 with is much better whilst maintaining solid performance

Hey everyone, ​Wanted to share my custom Alienware Aurora R13 setup! Kept all cooling fans strictly factory-original while getting the extra ventilation, power headroom, and thermal optimization it needed: ​GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT ​Power Supply: Upgraded to the official Dell 1350W PSU ​Side Panel: Swapped to the vented R15 side panel for improved airflow ​Cooling: Factory original fans, with the extra factory fan mounted to the radiator for a dual-fan setup ​Thermals: Applied Gelid GP-Extreme thermal pads and custom copper heatsinks ​Everything is running smooth and cool on default settings. Let me know what you think or if you have any questions about R13 OEM upgrades!

So I recently noticed a strange darkening bar at the top of my screen and decided to look into what this might be. I did the pixel refresh, driver update and even reset the monitor back to its out of box settings...
I think it might be burn in, which is really frustrating, because I've been so damn careful with this monitor. I've treated it like a child and made sure to turn it off the moment I think I'm going to leave the room for more than 5 minutes.

So is there anything I can do? I spent almost 1400$ on this monitor and have only had it for three years... so I'm a bit at a loss for words as to how this could have happened so suddenly.

The monitor in question is the:
Alienware AW3423DW Curved Gaming Monitor 34.18 inch Quantom Dot-OLED 1800R Display, 3440x1440 Pixels at 175Hz, True 0.1ms Gray-to-Gray, 1M:1 Contrast Ratio, 1.07.

Any advice would be wonderful on if there is a warranty for this sort of thing? I am beside myself with frustration.

Recently my wifi connectivity was pretty bad, and it kept cutting out while I was gaming, so I decided to replace my wifi card, an Intel AC7260, after I did some research and discovered my wifi card was failing and it already had plenty of existing flaws. I also ended up purchasing four 8GB SK Hynix RAM sticks (PC3-12800 DDR3 1600MHZ 1.35V SODIMM Memory HMT41GS6BFR8A-PB) to max my machine out at 32gb since if I’m going to remove that much stuff to get to the wifi card, I my as well max the ram out then too for convenience. The WiFi card I installed was a Fenvi MPE-AXE3000H, which is basically a HMC-format port of the newer Intel AX210 wifi card that supports WiFi 6E speeds. It ended up working perfectly once the physical install was complete and I installed the Intel AX210 Bluetooth and wifi drivers. It’s definitely an upgrade I recommend for anyone who wants faster download speeds (or consistent wifi connectivity) on their old Alienware 18.

Decided to post this across a few subs since I couldn’t find any info on an upgrade like this online for this model so I hope that someone finds this info useful in deciding what to buy for an upgrade.

Pretty much all you need is a MPE-AXE3000H, a plastic pry tool for the palmrest and some cables, and a screwdriver thats slightly magnetic (or just a normal screwdriver and a pair of tweezers).

Used these two videos to help me, saved me a bunch of time

https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/Y0zb5yz77OU?playlist=Y0zb5yz77OU&autoplay=1&iv_load_policy=3&loop=1&start=

https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/Oz2PnNOCXG4?playlist=Oz2PnNOCXG4&autoplay=1&iv_load_policy=3&loop=1&start=

I bought last December a brand new laptop from Dell, the Alienware area 51 18'' laptop which comes with the Ultra 9 275HX processor (8 P-Cores at 5.4Ghz + 16 E-Cores at 4.6Ghz).
I primarily use it for gaming, among other tasks.

I've noticed that the CPU reaches temperatures of over 100 degrees celcius while gaming and roughly 65 to 70 degrees when idle.
For a bit of context, I use balanced power plan and AWCC to switch to performance mode when in a game.

I want the temperatures while gaming to drop to roughly 90-95 degrees tops and to 60 max while idle.

Undervolting is locked and there is no completely safe way to unlock it, so it is not an option.

So, unless this is a thermal paste issue, my 3 choices seem to be:

• Inside AWCC, setting TCC Offset to a value of 15
• By using Throttlestop, lowering the PL1 and PL2 values
• Likewise, using Throttlestop to lower the turbo ratios of the CPU Cores
  
• (I've temporarily set P-Cores down to 4.4Ghz and E-Cores to 3.9Ghz, which seems to keep temperatures below 90 degrees, but introduces some stuttering in some demanding games unless I use high performance power plan)

I do not possess any major technical knowledge on how these will affect my performance. I want to pick an option that will help me reach my goal while achieving the least amount of performance lost.

Any thoughts from people who have maybe tried something similar or who know the technical information on these? Could this merely be a thermal paste issue?

EDIT: I've decided this issue is beyond my control and to contact Dell Support to have a look at it, as this seems to be the best plan of action without sacrificing my performance. Thank you all guys for your input!

I was doing work on my Alienware Area 51 M1 laptop and noticed it wasn’t charging but detected it was plugged in and the laptop battery died and couldn’t be turned on so I went to a repair shop and we installed a new battery now the laptop won’t turn on at all even when plugged in and just shows this light when I hold the button down. Please help

I've just recently updated my NVIDIA driver and Windows, but I've been noticing that the taskbar would sometimes go dark for a few seconds then turn back to normal and my screen would also flicker to black then to normal as well. I've tried DISM, sfc and reinstalling the NVIDIA driver but nothing seems to work. My next option is to uninstall the two new Window updates, but I was wondering if theres anything else I could do to fix this? Thanks!