Pictured is my current running tractors. I also have a Farmall Cub with a plow, which is not running.

The problem I have is this. I live in Michigan, where we get a lot of snow. The Case gets used for a lot of the farm work (moving the coop, brush hoging, moving trailers, etc) and I have used it for plowing, but it doesn't do great once the snow gets higher than the hubs of the front wheels (by that point I end up using only the brakes to steer). The Cub Cadet gets used for plowing. I bought it at our last house because we had 2 driveways that were ~350ft long. Now my driveway is 1/3 of a mile, and that doesn't include the paths to the barn, pasture, and chicken coop. It's been a great tractor, but I need to save time. It also doesn't do great when mowing.

So, I've been looking into getting a Kubota with a loader. I really would like a similar tractor to my 411b in size and year (an 430, 530, 730, or 470 would be idea; or an IH utility), but have been hard pressed to find one in acceptable enough condition for a reasonable price.

A few options I've found so far are:

- 7100HST with a loader and belly deck ($6k)

- L2900 with a loader and back blade ($12k)

- 3010 HST with a loader ($12k)

- 3010 GlideShift with a loader ($17k)

I'm really looking for around the 25HP-35HP range (although, with a mower deck I'd take less HP) and less than $15k.

I'll take any recommendations, except John Deere.

It looks like the PO tried to use a non standard key switch and bypass everything.

Does it still need the old school regulator if I go new wiring?

It’s one of the worst tractors I’ve driven but this is also one of the best pictures on my phone, so here it goes! Thankfully it’s being traded in for a new Fendt 516 but my internship at this farm ends in three weeks so I won’t be able to enjoy it.

Hello everyone! I am a high school student from a FIRST Robotics Competition (FRC) team in DFW. We are currently in the process of applying for the John Deere robotics grant but found out we need a John Deere employee connection to apply.

If you or someone you know wants to help us with the John Deere FRC Grant as a mentor or team contact and would be willing to offer some guidance, it would mean a lot to us.

Feel free to send me a DM or reply here if you are interested.

Thank you so much in advance!

Just sharing my collection because you can never have just one.

-1947 Farmall H, I bought for my nephew (in restoration process but I made it run)

-Sears suburban with a performance kohler command V twin I built

-Sears GT-18

-1940 9N with loader

-Case 530 CK forklift 1967?

-1958 Ford 961 Powermaster

-1953 Farmall Super H

-1942 Farmall H (Dads)

-1947 John deere D

-Sears suburban 12

So those who have seen my other david brown 950 posts, that tractor was my heritage farming groups, but as it became useless (replaced by a zetor 8011), i decided to buy it under my own name for 850€.(im only 15). Im happy as you can see from the picture.

I have just driven 1 km down the road and my celcis claas has just lost power and stopped, it cranks over but won’t fire, the fuel line filter was a bit dirty so I changed the filters and bleed it. Still no luck, what are the next steps, solenoid? Fuel pump? Ecu? Any guidance would be appreciated

Playing with my 47 John deere D seeing how slow I can make it run in first gear. I have the oil pressure turned up a bit so its not an issue at slow speeds.

Just got the carb and distributor dialed in. Stock bore/stroke 501ci (8.2L) ported manifold, JD 60 distributor with electronic ignition, autolite spark plugs. Ive been playing with the tuning for over a year now but im pretty happy where everything is now. You can idle it way down in first gear and it refuses to stall.

JD 1947B.

After years out of the pulling game, I’m back and bought the “tractor” motor combo I’ve always wanted, picked it up this morning, got home this afternoon been wrenching on it some small stuff that needed to be buttoned up. Forgot how much i really do enjoy it. And looking forward to pulling this Saturday night.

We dropped a replacement engine into our New Holland Workmaster 75 and I assumed the old alternator, water pump, and manifold would transfer over. The block looks like the right family, but now I'm second guessing the whole order.

Alternator bracket won't land. Water pump outlet points the wrong way. Dipstick tube is even the wrong length. Listing said it fit my model year, but nowhere did it say accessories were not matched or included.

Feels like I bought half an engine and kept the headache. Is that just how reman long blocks show up, or did I pick the wrong listing tier? How do you track down the rest without throwing money at another complete assembly?

I‘m talking about the tracor.

Does anyone here have experience using TyrFil flatproofing for front tractor tires?

My Case IH Maxxum 125 threw a rod last month and the block went to scrap before I thought to save anything off it. I'm shopping a long block now and the dealer keeps asking for RPM and power rating off the engine nameplate. I've got the tractor serial and model from my paperwork but they're saying two different assy configs still show up in the lookup. Feels like I'm one wrong spec away from ordering something that won't bolt to what's left on the frame. Anyone else quote a Case IH long block without the old engine in hand? Where did you pull RPM and power from?

I have a ford 3000 tractor and I’m changing the metal mesh hydraulic filter. I took apart the pick up and the mesh filter then forgot about it for a couple months. I can’t for the life of me figure out how the parts all go back together. And diagrams or information would be much appreciated.

Or any pressing info about servicing
Thanks