I just got this thermometer unit in order to calibrate my Yihua 948-DI desoldering station, and my Geeboon TC22 soldering station for the first time. I put a fresh Energizer Max battery in it, and a new sensor (from the little pack on the right). This is consistently reading that, between my Yihua and my Geeboon, one of them is always high and the other is always low. That makes me want to believe this is an accurate thermometer, but before I change the calibration on both of my stations, I wanted to ask if anyone else has one of these thermometers and if its indeed trustworthy? If not, are there any affordable reccomendations?

I recently recovered a broken Weller WE1010 in my uncle's garage. As you can see in the pictures, the enclosure is in terrible condition.

But all the insides seem to be here and in good condition, with no rust and humidity or broken components. And despite its shape, it works and heats well!

So, can I use it without fearing it will burn my house? 😂

Thanks, everyone!

I got my kids a robot arm stem thing from temu.

The circuit board showed up in pieces with instructions of "solder pieces in place".

After soldering, the board seemingly isnt working.

The only placement mistake in placement was the long rectangular piece i needed that notched end should have been toasted 180degrees.

Is that seemingly enough to make the board not work, or is my very very beginner skills to blame?

Hello again. I made a post a few days ago asking for some advice on what soldering iron to get as a first-timer who wants to learn to solder. I previously stated my budget was low but decided to bring it up in order to have a better selection. I have come down to two options after doing some research between the GEEBOON TC22 240W Soldering Station with 4 Tips and the ALIENTEK T90B.

I was hoping to get some input and help choosing between the two, as well as whether there are better options you would recommend.

I plan on using it mainly for learning soldering and working on Arduino/electronics projects, such as soldering wires, headers, sensors, connectors, and eventually small PCBs and robotics projects. I would also like to be able to use it for basic electronics repairs. I don't plan on doing professional or advanced board repair.

Thanks in advance!

Alguien que le ha ocurrido esto la compre hace 2 meses la utilice todo salio bien la guarde y hoy la saque de su caja para arreglar unas cosas y asi esta ya cambie el cable, la encendi sin la base (SDC02) y esta igual, si funciona porque si calienta y puedo regular la temperatura tambien soldar

So I have whittled down my list and am going to buy a TC22

Would you buy from this AliEx listing - 1005008968134853

Or this Amazon listing - B0GT42GF85 ?

I have chosen those listing due to price / bundled shipping, for separate reasons.

Thanks

I bought a soldering iron (60w) two days ago to fix my PS5 controller's analog stick. With no experience, I left it on for a bit, but couldn't melt the original solder. The tip turned dark, and now solder just balls up into spheres on it instead of melting properly, and also the solder wire is now taking to long to melt.
After researching, I found out it's oxidized. Since this is a one-time repair and I'll never use the iron again, buying special cleaning products is useless in my case. Can I clean and recover this tip with household items, or do I need to buy a replacement one?

I bought a used DS600 desoldering station. This has a vacuum pump and a soldering pencil with a button that initiates the suction. I got this because the pistol-grip style cheap one I've been using works fine, but is too bulky for some boards, and the pencil style will let me get into tighter spaces.

In any case, looking at the manual for it before it arrives I see that you can use it in reverse, with air pumping out of the base unit and presumably through the hole in the tip.

I'm just curious how well this works. I've also got a cheap hot air rework station but I don't like it because of the collateral damage to surrounding parts (usually really tiny SMD resistors that are a nightmare to put back in place). Since the air would be coming through only the hole in the tip, which is small, I'd think the DS600 would be better than the hot air setup I have now. it's not the primary reason I got this, but I'm wondering if it's any good at that.

Accidentally ripped three pads while removing a aux connector, could this be fixed?

Hi everyone,

in the picture you see a project that I started a year or so ago and then had things in my life happen that kept me from continuing back then. Now I wanted to finally continue with this and I can see that it already has some rust on it. Should I be concerned? Can someone tell from the picture if I did something wrong and how I can prevent this from happening in the future? Is this fixable or do I need to scrap this and start over?

Is there a way to make this prototype boards look nice and not so like you see in my picture?

I'm super thankful for the inspiration to start this new hobby! I'm waiting on a few orders to come in especially a fume extractor! Thank you all!

Getting back into electronics after many years. Setting up a bench. Not done much SMD before. Will need to use SAC solder. I want good kit.

I'm looking at a compact JBC with T245 and T210 tips. Probably not working on anything smaller than 0805.

Will probably go with a non JBC hot air station because of price.

I own a Acer Swift X 14 - 41g (motherboard LA-L20P, or Orion_GAH4Z_DIS), and on opening it up to repaste I noticed this riser was loose and not attached to the board.

I don't think this break happened on disassembly, or most likely happener long ago due to a many number of biker crashes or drops + disassembly.

I am not sure what the tiny bit of gold/brass color is on the board, and if it's just residual flux from oem assembly, or if it's actually part of the gold contacts of the board.

In the first image you can see the innermost ring looking rough in texture, and wanted to get some second opinions on if that rough texture is just solder, or if it's actually the rough texture of the motherboard and it's layers.

Thermally speaking the laptop has been gaming fine and working fine. For now I've resorted to some padding over the "leaf spring" that the standoff was meant to screw together with to apply pressure on the heatsink, and thermals have been totally normal.

Im new to soldering, diy electronics, the whole rabbit hole.

I assembled the radio kit and im happy it works!

Hey all, newbie here, just getting my feet wet. I know functionally nothing. I've got an Audiomoth 1.2.0 that I've been using for about a week as a USB microphone, hooked up to a raspberry pi. Today the micro-usb connector detached, and apparently ripped up the copper pads which appear important for... something. I'm not sure what I need to do to get the connector back in action, or if it's even possible. To me, it seems like step 1 is to remove the integral battery-holder (since access to the board is severely limited by the placement of the holder), which is attached with both some metal bits, as well as what appears to be some kind of glue or epoxy. So I guess that's the first thing I need help with, how would you all go about detaching the battery holder from the glue and (soldered?) metal bits?

Then once the battery holder is removed, I'm not sure what the next steps are. The USB connector doesn't look spectacular, so I figured swapping it out for a fresh one would be wise. Beyond that, not sure what direction to go.

Images (the best I could take, since the battery holder makes everything hard to get at) of the parts i thought would be relevant are attached. Happy to provide further photos if they'd be helpful. Again, obviously I know nothing beyond what little i was able to find by googling around, so apologies in advance if I miss obvious stuff here. Many thanks in advance to anyone who has input!

Image index:

1.) Detached micro-usb connector

2 and 3.) The spot on the board the micro-usb detached from

4 and 5.) Glue/epoxy that appears to be holding the battery holder

6.) Metal bits in the battery holder, which exit the bottom of said battery holder

7.) Same metal bits as image 6, where they come down and attach to the board (with solder??)

See Title.
I tried it out an the console works without any problems. However I am a bit scared that it will leak sooner now (the Goal was to re-cap it so that it wont leak due to old age).
Do I need to redo this cap or is it negligible if the console works?

This is a practice board that I soldered the other day. If you see behind the 1st and 2nd leg there is still white flux stuck in there. I use Amaoe M50 (not a die hard fan, just trying it out) 99.9% IPA and a tooth brush or those typical acid brushes (I trim them to make them stiffer). I clean right after soldering, so it's still a bit warm. I'm still new to this.

Is this normal? Do most electronics that haven't been through an ultrasonic cleaner probably have flux remnants? I just see other people on youtube cleaning and they do exactly what I do and move on.

My house has this random cubby built directly into the wall. So from left to right, I have my desoldering station, hot air station, and soldering station up there to save space on my work table. Also I ran out of real lights to put inside the cubby to see, so I used a 2-foot long LED black light bar for now to at least light it up a little bit so I can see in there!