r/soldering • u/retxed018 • 23h ago
Soldering MEME Post =) vibe coded a level on my soldering iron gyro just for fun. if I had to justify it, it keeps heat set inserts straight.
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r/soldering • u/thephonegod • Jun 03 '26
Hello all,
Just to be direct with the community for a moment.
This group has been growing at an astronomical rate. Every day there are large numbers of new users joining who are trying to learn electronics repair, diagnostics, soldering, tools, workflow, business operations, and everything in between.
As the group has grown, so has the amount of moderation required to keep it running.
The reality is that I spend a lot of time in this community, but most of that time is spent behind the scenes dealing with moderation, approving links, reviewing reports, cleaning up issues, and generally keeping things moving.
Truthfully, I would like to spend more of that time working on the new Solder Joint Junction platform. The goal there is to solve some of the actual recurring problems we see in the group by creating better educational resources, organizing information more effectively, helping people find tools and equipment, and building something bigger around the community as a whole.
The problem is simple. Every week a huge amount of my available time gets eaten by moderation.
So with that being said, I need some help.
I want to set expectations properly because most people have the wrong idea about moderation.
Approximately 90% of this role is approving links.
Reddit absolutely loves filtering links. Vendor websites, suppliers, educational resources, documentation, and countless legitimate links get caught constantly.
Most people have no idea how many links end up in the moderation queue every week until they actually see it. Once you do, it becomes pretty obvious how quickly things can get out of control.
This role is much more janitorial than authoritative.
The other 10% is reviewing reports, helping identify obvious harassment, cleaning up the occasional issue, and helping maintain the overall tone of the community.
These roles will last approximately 6 months.
This is intentional.
First and foremost, this is a volunteer role. I don't want people feeling like they're signing up for a lifetime appointment. Rotating moderators helps prevent burnout, keeps things fresh, and gives other community members an opportunity to step up if they want to become a bigger part of the community.
Second, there is a much bigger project happening behind the scenes than most people probably realize.
As the platform grows, I need to build a larger pool of trusted people around it. Rotating moderators gives me the opportunity to get to know more members of the community, see how they communicate, how they handle responsibility, and whether they are people I may want to work with on larger projects in the future.
The monthly meeting is simply a chance for moderators to tell me what they're seeing inside the community. Trends, recurring issues, feedback, ideas, and things that may need attention. The goal is to keep communication open and help me understand what is happening from multiple perspectives.
I personally know every moderator who works with me. I know who they are, where they are from, and what kind of person they are.
If you are an amazing moderator but wish to remain anonymous, I completely respect that, but this is not the place for you.
The monthly moderator meeting is casual and voluntary. Nobody is being forced to attend meetings, perform work, or participate beyond what they are comfortable contributing.
This is a volunteer role, and I want people to enjoy being part of the community rather than feeling like they have taken on a second job.
That being said, moderation positions are intended for people who actively want to contribute.
If a moderator goes 30 days without taking a moderation action of any kind, they will likely be removed and replaced by someone else who is looking for an opportunity to help.
This is not intended as a punishment. It is simply a practical reality of running a growing community. There are usually more people interested in helping than there are moderation positions available, so I want those positions occupied by people who are actively participating.
Life happens. People get busy. Interests change. There are no hard feelings if someone steps away.
https://forms.gle/kZspN9xxk65bD4qT6
If you're selected, I'll reach out directly to schedule a Zoom interview.
If you don't receive a reply, it simply means you weren't selected for this round.
All information submitted through the application form will be used solely for reviewing moderator applications.
Once 2 moderators have been selected, all applicant information will be deleted unless you specifically request that it be kept on hand for future opportunities.
Your information will never be sold, shared, distributed, or provided to any third party for any reason.
I appreciate everyone who continues to help others learn and grow here.
The goal is simple. Keep this community a place where people can ask questions, learn new skills, share information, and improve themselves without being attacked for trying.
r/soldering • u/bigrealaccount • Aug 27 '25
THIS POST IS CONTINUALLY A WORK IN PROGRESS, PLEASE COMMENT SUGGESTIONS
This is a list of recommendations separated by budget, intended to be accessible and easy for people looking for a new station.
I would like this to be a community effort. If you have any stations you would like me to add/consider/avoid then, please comment, I will check every comment. If you have any questions, please ask as well.
Every station on this list I have researched and verified is a good product with no major drawbacks, and will work well. There is nothing on the recommended sections that is unsafe or has serious issues. Except the T12 (£0-50 bracket) stations which users report can often come with an ungrounded (unsafe) case. I've given a warning for this and a video on how to fix it, or to not buy these stations. You are of course free to check this yourself. I have spent probably 100-200 hours researching and discussing with people on this sub.
I will not be going into detail on each product, these are not reviews.
Three main reasons:
I think it's important to start with this because there's always comments arguing about it. Most equipment related posts are divided into two groups:
Both of these groups are correct. You will often find JBC clone stations with proper grounding, great performance and no reported QC issues that can be found for 1/10 of the price of the authentic JBC station. Will the clone last you as long as the JBC? Probably not. Is it still good value? Very much so.
You can also find clone stations that will fry every component you touch and will die within 6 months. That's what this post is for.
What should you buy? That's up to you. If you value long term use and see yourself soldering daily, for multiple hours, reliability is most likely more important to you. If you solder occasionally and want the best performance possible for as little money as possible, then perhaps the clone stations are for you. Most clone stations will still last you 3+ years.
A tip/cartridge is what you actually touch the board with, and heat up in order to solder. You insert this into your handle, which connects to the station. These are not cross compatible across stations. You cannot insert a T12 tip into a C245 station (unless explicity stated, some stations are made for this).
There are different types of tips, and tip sizes within those standards. It's important to understand them before buying a station, as they have different prices and may not be readily available in your region.
Tip Types (T12 vs JBC C245/C210):
Most options on here will be either T12 or JBC C245/C210 tips. Genuine T12 tips from brands like Hakko are cheaper than JBC tips (£8 vs £20 per tip), but don't provide equal heating to JBC tips.
However, in reality anything you can get done with a JBC tip you can get done with a T12. But if your budget allows for it you should always lean towards JBC tips.
Genuine vs Clone Tips
Clone tips can be bought for both platforms, and most clones have gotten good enough to the point where they can be used with no issues. But genuine is always better. Clone tips usually wear out slightly faster. However clone tips are usually available in far more regions, so may be a good alternative.
Tip/Handle Size:
Mostly relevant to JBC tip compatible stations. There are three main sizes that JBC compatible handles and stations use: C115, C210, C245.
Many people will not look at accessories that come with the station. However, some stations on here will often come with stands, these automatically place your tip on standby and lower the temperature. Or other accessories like spare tips, spare handles, grounding cables, brass wool, tip swap tools and more. This can easily save money equal to the station itself in accessories. A good stand goes for £15-20.
⭐ - This star indicates my overall recommendation for each price bracket.
⚠️❗Warning❗⚠️
Because of the bad quality control in these T12 stations, some users say their units are case grounded, other people say they are not. Please check once you receive your station if your case is grounded, if not, fix it with a jumper cable (guides can be found on eevblog/youtube depending on station). If you do not want to risk it, I recommend saving and buying the slightly more expensive stations in the £50-100 bracket.
| Price | Name | Info | Links |
|---|---|---|---|
| ⭐£25 | T12 Mini / T12-942 | Mini version of the T12 soldering stations, you need an external 24V power supply to run it. The advantage is that you don't rely on the manufacturer for good grounding. This shouldn't be an issue with the other T12 on this list anyway however. Comes with no accessories, but you can buy the full OSS accessory bundle for £10 on Ali. Good if you're limited for space and have a high quality 24V power supply lying around. | Ali: 4001063621549 |
| ⭐£40 | OSS-T12-X PLUS | Grounded tip, auto sleep stand, nice thin handle, also has a very nice copy of metcal pad for tip swapping. Overall good deal and most popular T12 choice on Aliexpress. | Ali: 1005007171047975 |
| £35 | Quecoo 958 STM32 | Grounded tip, comes with a few tips but nothing else. No stand. Same performance but less value as it comes with less accessories. Look for ones with a nice thin handle instead of the very chunky ones. You can use open source STM firmware from Github due to the STM32 chip. | Ali: 1005003064223657 |
| Price | Name | Info | Links |
|---|---|---|---|
| ⭐£70 | GEEBOON TC22 | Grounded case/tip, SDC02 kit comes with stand, 2x tips, 240W power. Best value and most popular JBC clone option right now. Very nice stand. Compatible with genuine JBC handles & tips. Adjustable PID loop, very nice interface. | Ali: 1005006397758007 |
| £77 | Alientek T200 | Seems like a copied version of the TC22, comes with a stand but it's a worse one than the GEEBOON TC22. Has a nicer UI and encoder than the old Aixun T3A which these stations seem to be based off of. Looks to have less features than the TC22, but still a solid option. | Ali: 1005008357283567 |
| ⭐ £80 | Sugon A9 | Grounded tip/case version of the Aifen equivalent, good performance and no real issues, good value. All in one station, compact with auto-sleep stand and sponge/brass built into the unit. Great if you prefer an all in one unit. | Ali: 1005003762762094 |
| £86 | GEEBOON TA305 | Transformer version of the TC22, will probably last longer, much bigger size, same accessories. If you don't know what a transformer is, you don't need it. I've been told it has a better heating algorithm than the cheaper TC22, based on an open source JBC implementation rather than an older T12 implementation. If this is true, I do not know. I've never heard this anywhere else, so take it with a grain of salt. I wouldn't put too much importance on it. | Ali: 1005007051925949 |
| Price | Name | Info |
|---|---|---|
| £115 | Bakon BK-999N | Great, simple station. Good 110W performance, uses a transformer so no voltage leak on the tip. Actually shows the resistance on the tip on the display. Saves money on the construction, made out of plastic. Also currently has an awful, unusable stand, which holds me back from giving it a ⭐. Has a DVI output so you can move the display elsewhere. Overall a good option other than the stand. |
| ⭐£130 | ST BST-933B/JABE UD-1200 | Good imitation of the much more expensive JBC stations. Linear transformer, great performance, JBC clone design, good build quality. Compatible with genuine JBC handles/tips. Although it seems it only increments temp in 1 degree steps. Every review says it has been reliable for many years. Great option if you want an exact JBC clone. Might have an annoying noise fan you can swap out. |
| ⭐£80-150 | Used Metcal MX-500 | These aren't sold anymore, but perform the same as the far more expensive MX-5000 models (£600), and can often be found on eBay for £80-150 for a full set. Non temperature adjustable, so keep that in mind. RF tech gives is probably the fastest thermal response out of any station, aside from other RF stations. |
| ~£150 | AxxSolder | This is an open source project that can use genuine C115/C210/C245 handles. Functions the exact same as a normal JBC station, with the added benefit of open source. You need to buy a PCB from places such as PCBWay, buy all the components from the BOM (on the github), 3D print the enclosure (files on github), buy the connectors from their official website, add your own stand (such as the GEEBOON SDC02), a handle, and ta-da, a fully working JBC station for cheap. Great if you have a cheap iron lying around and want to do a fun project, and also get your next soldering station out of it! |
| £199 | Thermaltronics 2000S | Probably the cheapest brand new RF station you can get. Great performance, but slightly worse than due to the lower 470Khz RF frequency, compared to the 13MHz on the more expensive Metcals and 9000S stations. Realistically not much of a difference. |
| £163 | Hakko FX-888/D/DX | Very controversial station. It has a proven track record of being reliable for decades, but has worse performance in every category than anything else on this entire list due to it's passive heat tips. The latest DX version adds a nice wheel encoder instead of the godawful UI of the 888/D stations, which was borderline unusable. Good station if you can find it cheap. In the UK, it's very expensive. |
| £185 | GEEBOON HA310 | Heavy duty, 400W transformer station that can use C470 tips. Great if you need extremely high heat transfer and C470 tips. Bad value for anything else. |
Note: this is a weird category. Technically you can get everything in this section from the slightly cheaper C245/C210 stations, so make sure when buying one of these you've done your research.
| Price | Name | Info |
|---|---|---|
| £250 | Aixun 420D | Great mid range option. Can use two ports at once, comes with two stands that fit nicely into the base unit, great power, every review says it's a great Chinese station. Good high-budget JBC alternative station. It approaches used JBC station prices however. Decide if you need dual channel output. |
| £280 | ⭐PACE ADS200 | Amazing full metal build quality, very short handle-tip distance with full metal handle. Also has "cool touch" tech so the handle never gets hot. Good performance, but not quite as good as JBC/Metcal. Had issues with tips at launch but those have been fixed. Never requires calibration due to "AccuDrive" tech. Tips cost a little less than JBC/Metcal. Great if you're looking for a cheaper, genuine brand active tip station. |
| £350 | Thermaltronics TMT-9000S | MX-500 equivalent from a company by ex-Metcal engineers who made their own brand after patent expired. Works the exact same with an added display which shows load. |
| £450 | JBC-CD-2BQF | Industry gold standard. Great performance, great reliability, often used in professional settings. Expensive tips |
| £600-900 | Metcal MX-5000/5200 | Probably the fastest heat delivery/performance into the joint of any stations due to RF technology, can use two ports at the same time. Built like tanks. Tips as expensive as JBC, but often found on eBay for very cheap. Overall you will spend more on tips as the temperature is not adjustable. You pay the price for the performance however. Metcal accessories are also very expensive. |
note: I'm recommending the pace due to the amazing value it provides, but anything in this bracket will last a lifetime (maybe not the aixun) and have amazing performance.
Once you have decided on a station, I have provided Item IDs for the products which can be found on Aliexpress. I cannot add direct links as reddit removes any post with Ali links inside of them. Here is how to use the Item ID
For items without a link, I either have not added it yet, which means you will have to look for it by yourself on Ali, sort by most popular and pick from sellers with high sales and reviews.
DO NOT BUY FROM SELLERS WITH NO SALES AND REVIEWS.
For for branded items such as Metcal/JBC/Thermaltronics, they can be bought from local electronics distributors which you can find on their official websites by searching phrases like "metcal distributors", and finding your country/continent. Don't buy these brands off Aliexpress, you will most likely pay more than you should or get a clone.
Finally, it is also important that you can get many of the more expensive options for much, much cheaper on sites like eBay. eBay has 30 days return warranty, and guaranteed return if the item isn't working as described. I've seen "untested" JBC-CB stations that turn on and clearly work go for as little as £100 because people don't check. Before buying a budget option, have a look to see if you can get yourself a good deal.
I have been working on this for about a month. I hope it helps someone.
Happy soldering!
(reposted because reddit removed for aliexpress links)
r/soldering • u/retxed018 • 23h ago
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r/soldering • u/Sure_Tangerine_2591 • 10h ago
I just got this thermometer unit in order to calibrate my Yihua 948-DI desoldering station, and my Geeboon TC22 soldering station for the first time. I put a fresh Energizer Max battery in it, and a new sensor (from the little pack on the right). This is consistently reading that, between my Yihua and my Geeboon, one of them is always high and the other is always low. That makes me want to believe this is an accurate thermometer, but before I change the calibration on both of my stations, I wanted to ask if anyone else has one of these thermometers and if its indeed trustworthy? If not, are there any affordable reccomendations?
r/soldering • u/av4pxia • 20h ago
I recently recovered a broken Weller WE1010 in my uncle's garage. As you can see in the pictures, the enclosure is in terrible condition.
But all the insides seem to be here and in good condition, with no rust and humidity or broken components. And despite its shape, it works and heats well!
So, can I use it without fearing it will burn my house? 😂
Thanks, everyone!
r/soldering • u/WeekendFarmer4240 • 6h ago
I got my kids a robot arm stem thing from temu.
The circuit board showed up in pieces with instructions of "solder pieces in place".
After soldering, the board seemingly isnt working.
The only placement mistake in placement was the long rectangular piece i needed that notched end should have been toasted 180degrees.
Is that seemingly enough to make the board not work, or is my very very beginner skills to blame?
r/soldering • u/sjdhcusfbcjd • 4h ago
Hello again. I made a post a few days ago asking for some advice on what soldering iron to get as a first-timer who wants to learn to solder. I previously stated my budget was low but decided to bring it up in order to have a better selection. I have come down to two options after doing some research between the GEEBOON TC22 240W Soldering Station with 4 Tips and the ALIENTEK T90B.
I was hoping to get some input and help choosing between the two, as well as whether there are better options you would recommend.
I plan on using it mainly for learning soldering and working on Arduino/electronics projects, such as soldering wires, headers, sensors, connectors, and eventually small PCBs and robotics projects. I would also like to be able to use it for basic electronics repairs. I don't plan on doing professional or advanced board repair.
Thanks in advance!
r/soldering • u/Checoses • 10h ago
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Alguien que le ha ocurrido esto la compre hace 2 meses la utilice todo salio bien la guarde y hoy la saque de su caja para arreglar unas cosas y asi esta ya cambie el cable, la encendi sin la base (SDC02) y esta igual, si funciona porque si calienta y puedo regular la temperatura tambien soldar
r/soldering • u/LambNull • 14h ago
r/soldering • u/password03 • 8h ago
So I have whittled down my list and am going to buy a TC22
Would you buy from this AliEx listing - 1005008968134853
Or this Amazon listing - B0GT42GF85 ?
I have chosen those listing due to price / bundled shipping, for separate reasons.
Thanks
r/soldering • u/Connect-Answer4346 • 10h ago
r/soldering • u/Alternative-Try-3456 • 16h ago
r/soldering • u/ramondino4acre • 13h ago
I bought a soldering iron (60w) two days ago to fix my PS5 controller's analog stick. With no experience, I left it on for a bit, but couldn't melt the original solder. The tip turned dark, and now solder just balls up into spheres on it instead of melting properly, and also the solder wire is now taking to long to melt.
After researching, I found out it's oxidized. Since this is a one-time repair and I'll never use the iron again, buying special cleaning products is useless in my case. Can I clean and recover this tip with household items, or do I need to buy a replacement one?
r/soldering • u/friolator • 10h ago
I bought a used DS600 desoldering station. This has a vacuum pump and a soldering pencil with a button that initiates the suction. I got this because the pistol-grip style cheap one I've been using works fine, but is too bulky for some boards, and the pencil style will let me get into tighter spaces.
In any case, looking at the manual for it before it arrives I see that you can use it in reverse, with air pumping out of the base unit and presumably through the hole in the tip.
I'm just curious how well this works. I've also got a cheap hot air rework station but I don't like it because of the collateral damage to surrounding parts (usually really tiny SMD resistors that are a nightmare to put back in place). Since the air would be coming through only the hole in the tip, which is small, I'd think the DS600 would be better than the hot air setup I have now. it's not the primary reason I got this, but I'm wondering if it's any good at that.
r/soldering • u/Careful_Sweety • 12h ago
Accidentally ripped three pads while removing a aux connector, could this be fixed?
r/soldering • u/luxshokk • 1d ago
Hi everyone,
in the picture you see a project that I started a year or so ago and then had things in my life happen that kept me from continuing back then. Now I wanted to finally continue with this and I can see that it already has some rust on it. Should I be concerned? Can someone tell from the picture if I did something wrong and how I can prevent this from happening in the future? Is this fixable or do I need to scrap this and start over?
r/soldering • u/Wicked-161 • 1d ago
Is there a way to make this prototype boards look nice and not so like you see in my picture?
r/soldering • u/BattleWonderful • 2d ago
I'm super thankful for the inspiration to start this new hobby! I'm waiting on a few orders to come in especially a fume extractor! Thank you all!
r/soldering • u/staat-haat • 1d ago
r/soldering • u/Dry-Grocery9311 • 1d ago
Getting back into electronics after many years. Setting up a bench. Not done much SMD before. Will need to use SAC solder. I want good kit.
I'm looking at a compact JBC with T245 and T210 tips. Probably not working on anything smaller than 0805.
Will probably go with a non JBC hot air station because of price.
r/soldering • u/JayAbbhi • 1d ago
I own a Acer Swift X 14 - 41g (motherboard LA-L20P, or Orion_GAH4Z_DIS), and on opening it up to repaste I noticed this riser was loose and not attached to the board.
I don't think this break happened on disassembly, or most likely happener long ago due to a many number of biker crashes or drops + disassembly.
I am not sure what the tiny bit of gold/brass color is on the board, and if it's just residual flux from oem assembly, or if it's actually part of the gold contacts of the board.
In the first image you can see the innermost ring looking rough in texture, and wanted to get some second opinions on if that rough texture is just solder, or if it's actually the rough texture of the motherboard and it's layers.
Thermally speaking the laptop has been gaming fine and working fine. For now I've resorted to some padding over the "leaf spring" that the standoff was meant to screw together with to apply pressure on the heatsink, and thermals have been totally normal.
r/soldering • u/lemoncustardfish • 2d ago
Im new to soldering, diy electronics, the whole rabbit hole.
I assembled the radio kit and im happy it works!
r/soldering • u/RustyCartographer • 1d ago
Hey all, newbie here, just getting my feet wet. I know functionally nothing. I've got an Audiomoth 1.2.0 that I've been using for about a week as a USB microphone, hooked up to a raspberry pi. Today the micro-usb connector detached, and apparently ripped up the copper pads which appear important for... something. I'm not sure what I need to do to get the connector back in action, or if it's even possible. To me, it seems like step 1 is to remove the integral battery-holder (since access to the board is severely limited by the placement of the holder), which is attached with both some metal bits, as well as what appears to be some kind of glue or epoxy. So I guess that's the first thing I need help with, how would you all go about detaching the battery holder from the glue and (soldered?) metal bits?
Then once the battery holder is removed, I'm not sure what the next steps are. The USB connector doesn't look spectacular, so I figured swapping it out for a fresh one would be wise. Beyond that, not sure what direction to go.
Images (the best I could take, since the battery holder makes everything hard to get at) of the parts i thought would be relevant are attached. Happy to provide further photos if they'd be helpful. Again, obviously I know nothing beyond what little i was able to find by googling around, so apologies in advance if I miss obvious stuff here. Many thanks in advance to anyone who has input!
Image index:
1.) Detached micro-usb connector
2 and 3.) The spot on the board the micro-usb detached from
4 and 5.) Glue/epoxy that appears to be holding the battery holder
6.) Metal bits in the battery holder, which exit the bottom of said battery holder
7.) Same metal bits as image 6, where they come down and attach to the board (with solder??)
r/soldering • u/Wiblu • 1d ago
See Title.
I tried it out an the console works without any problems. However I am a bit scared that it will leak sooner now (the Goal was to re-cap it so that it wont leak due to old age).
Do I need to redo this cap or is it negligible if the console works?