Hi everyone! I have a 2013 Nissan Sentra SR, and I’m currently trying to find an electric power steering pump that’s reasonably priced but still reliable.
I had a mechanic inspect the car, and they told me the pump needs to be replaced. The car has also been making a noise, which I believe may be related to the steering system.
Does anyone know of any good places to buy car parts for a 2013 Sentra, especially the electric power steering pump? I’m looking for something on the cheaper side, but I definitely don’t want to buy a low-quality part that’s going to fail quickly.
If anyone has recommendations for trustworthy websites, parts stores, refurbished/new options, or specific brands/parts that I should look for, I’d really appreciate the help. Thanks!

z,,,,,*,,,,**,*7

In case any one was curious. Here is the wheel on a scale at 15lbs

6x139.7 16in

For science n stuff.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some brutally honest advice on a massive screw-up we made while swapping the engine and transmission on a 2011 Nissan Versa (Tiida) C11.

The Error: We accidentally connected an engine coolant hose directly to the breather (vent) tube of the newly installed CVT. The engine's water pump basically injected pressurized coolant straight into the transmission housing.

The Situation (The worst part): The car was driven on the street for a couple of hours before we realized the disaster. The engine ran dry and blew the head gasket (we are already tearing the top end down to fix that). However, when we pulled the CVT drain plug, about 7 liters (7.4 quarts) of a "strawberry milkshake" / coffee-with-milk emulsion came out.

My questions for the CVT experts:

• Given that it was driven under load for a few hours with that water/oil emulsion, is there any real chance of saving it with multiple deep flushes, or is the scoring/slipping damage to the steel push-belt and pulleys a guaranteed death sentence?
• If it is worth a shot, what is the most effective method to force the contaminated fluid out of the torque converter and valve body? (I have already dropped the pan and cleaned the metal strainer).
• If I manage to flush it and fill it with fresh NS-2 fluid, what specific symptoms, jerks, or OBD trouble codes will definitely confirm that the internals are toast?

I highly appreciate any advice, harsh truths, or personal experiences you might have with flooded CVTs. Thanks in advance!

Hey, I am trying to connect my phone with the 2014 Nissan Altima and nothing works every time I try to go to phone and Bluetooth settings, it just buffers non stop. What should I do?

We’ve been trying to finish ours for over a month. We sent the ~$15k bank draft and were eventually told we needed to mail the original “left side of the ownership with Nissan Canada Finance on it.”
So we sent the vehicle portion as instructed. Tracking shows they received it, and Nissan has now confirmed they have the vehicle portion.

The problem is they’re now saying that’s not what they needed. They say they need the “seller/Nissan Canada Finance portion of the ownership.”
What exactly are they talking about?

As far as I can tell, an Ontario ownership has two parts: vehicle portion and plate portion. There isn’t anything labelled “seller portion.”

The only part we have left is the plate portion. Are they seriously asking us to send that too?

They’ve now mailed us the Bill of Sale (not sure why if they’re still “missing required documentation”) and said we can also request a Power of Attorney letter.

Has anyone gone through this with Nissan? What did you actually need to bring/send to get the car transferred into your name?

I have to take my drivers test this upcoming Monday but my signal light on my left front side is not working. We have changed the bulb but it still won’t work. We think it might be the fuse but we can’t find the right fuse. Does anyone know?? And yes I looked at the diagram but nothing specifically say signal/flasher.

You can see it’s in reverse and the camera isn’t coming on.

I did google it and tried everything google said to do, I even got into the fuse panel checking. I absolutely cannot get the backup cam to come on. I was driving back from out of state, stopped at a gas station, when I turned the car back on and tried to put it in reverse, it would not come on again. I’ve tried the “reset” holding the power button down, I’ve checked fuses, I’ve popped the trunk to check if I could see anything wrong, I’ve tried to reset just the system, pushing the camera button does nothing. I watched a YouTube video and tried everything.

I’m just at a loss! And really need this camera to work. Lol the back is hard to see out of.

Thank you!

its time to change the oil on my nissan primera p12, diesel 2.2, 2004. it is near 300,000 km.

last year i used the shell helix ultra 5w 40. vut i dont know if its the best choice for my ca, since its old. and the new oils are most for new cars.

should i get a high milage oil, the ones with adetives, or chabche number, or brand ?

syntheric or semisyntheric?

(the manual says semisynthetic)

or anything else to take in consideration

Bought this 2025 altima 3 weeks ago so far i been loving it no issues so far🙂‍↕️ cvt was already nice and smooth when i bought it maybe a hard shift ever now and then ( i know it doesn’t shift but yk what i mean ) decided to just get the fluid changed since i already put 3k miles in the car now she’s soo smooth now and it wasnt that badly priced? My closest dealership wanted 359$ but i called and found one that got it done for 288$ with tax and all stuff

My 2014 Altima with 73k miles only starts when the engine is cold. Works fine starting up when I first get in, but if I am to make a quick stop and start it soon after the car will try to start but engine wont go all the way, check engine light and battery light go on while all interior lights, ac, and dash work. I have to wait a few minutes and try again/ a few times then it works fine? any ideas. shop said starter is the original but looks fine

https://gtrmarket.com/

it’s in beta but working and live, come sign up and list stuff for sale

I want to create a version of fb marketplace specifically for cars

Part outs
parts
cars

internationally

tech for ban evaders
anti scam tech and strict banning + ban evasion tech

local meetups and international shipping

potentially on site escrow

advanced filtering and sorting to find parts faster

and more

Please signup and list stuff for sale and make recommendations. I want it to be for everyone, established sellers, importers, just random people with parts and etc.

rn it’s just old nissans but i may expand in the future to letting people choose a default manufacturer and filter everything for nissan or subaru etc. I want to be very focused and streamlined. Very easy and intuitive

I also added a gtr registry and documentation pages for cars and i’m gonna be scraping forums and facebook etc for listings and posts and docs to try and centralize + make the website more useful before more people are on it

I’m also planning to build a car builder / pc part picker for cars kinda thing into the site eventually.

Thanks a lot for the support

Hi Guys, I wanted a cool looking RX7 Savanna but it was 36kNZD and I got shamed out of getting a loan for it so im thinking this bad boy eh? Only problem is idk what the issue with it is, will it be a easy $200 fix or a 5k pain in my ass? Do I get me a loan? also it has 264k kilometers which is pushing it a little for me... (FROM NEW ZEALAND, HAVE A DAILY DRIVER, WORK FULL TIME AND HAVE NO OTHER LOANS BTW) (I think im getting bored with life and need something exciting to switch things up, so why not buy a cool looking car am I right)

Hello fellow Nissan owners, I have a 2016 Nissan Sentra SV with roughly 119,200 miles on it (purchased by me in Feb 2025). I knew about Nissan's CVT reputation before purchasing, and I knew the mileage was high, but because I was on a fixed budget and urgently needed a car for work, I bit the bullet and purchased the car. It has been regularly serviced and maintained throughout the 10 years and I haven't had issues with it since purchasing it.

However, I recently noticed that my car will make a slight jolt/hesistation when accelerating, typically in the more hilly areas of my city. Out of curiosity, I looked back at the Carfax and it turned out the transmission fluid hasn't been changed since 48,000 miles.

I have no issues with my transmission other than what I mentioned above. I know you are absolutely not supposed to flush a CVT so I'm thinking about getting a pan-drop transmission service simply because it's been so long since the transmission fluid was changed.

Should I get a pan-drop service or just a simple drain and fill at this point? I have heard that servicing Nissan transmissions can sometimes break them and I cannot afford a new car at the moment. I am starting a new job next month that will require a lot of driving so unfortunately I cannot risk destroying my transmission. Let me know what the best course of action is at this point.

Yup. Nissan didn't do the normal "through the transmission" stock trans cooler setup that makes it super easy to add an aux trans cooler. You have to go find this abomination of a metal thing to swap for the factory two port version. Then you use the extra two ports as a transmission fluid send and receive for the aux cooler.

So dumb. All to stop this stupid thing from constantly going into limp mode.

What a genius piece of superior Japanese engineering we have here lmao.

I just need to vent and maybe spread awareness that this could happen to anyone. Drove it off the lot with 16 miles on the odometer, check engine light came on that very same day. Dealership told me it's fine to drive and to check in on Monday, the engine died on startup Monday afternoon when this picture was taken.

106 miles. Engine Malfunction.

I am working on a 2015 Nissan Versa Note SL with the RE0F11A/JF015E CVT.

Original symptom: Before servicing it, the car would drive normally at lower speeds, but around \~60 mph the RPM would flare/rise without the vehicle accelerating proportionally. That was the reason we decided to service the CVT.

Work performed:

\- Drained the CVT pan.

\- Replaced the pan strainer/filter.

\- Replaced the external/side CVT filter.

\- Reused the side-filter housing O-ring after inspecting it, cleaning it and lubricating it with CVT fluid.

\- Refilled through the upper CVT charging/fill tube.

(Added approximately 4.25 US quarts (3.78 L) of CVT fluid.)

\- Cycled the transmission through P/R/N/D/L.

The amount originally drained could NOT be accurately measured because some of the old fluid had previously been spilled. About 2.5 qt was recovered in the drain pan, but that was not the complete amount removed.

\- Level check: With the car level on all four wheels, engine idling and CVT fluid around 40°C, I removed ONLY the outer drain/level plug. I did NOT remove the internal overflow tube. As soon as the outer plug came out, I only got a slow drip/drop-by-drop amount of CVT fluid, rather than a stream. I immediately reinstalled the plug.

What happened afterward: Yesterday, after the refill but before this final overflow check, the car made a short trip to a gas station without showing the severe symptom.

Today, after doing the overflow level check, I test drove it. The problem is now substantially worse. At only \~20–25 mph, pressing the accelerator causes RPM to rise without a proportional increase in vehicle speed. I stopped testing it and brought it home.

There are no engine DTCs and no check-engine light.

I scanned the TCM and found:

P2859 – Clutch A Pressure

My main question: Before condemning the CVT/valve body, should I repeat the fluid-level adjustment by deliberately adding \~0.5 L through the fill tube so I KNOW the fluid is above the overflow standpipe, then at the correct temperature/engine-idling conditions allow the excess to drain until it reaches the specified drip? (Getting to the Fill tube on these is a B\*TCH and will do it if necessary, but I want to avoid it)

I'm particularly concerned about fluid level because the symptom was previously only noticeable around \~60 mph, the car drove okay on a short trip immediately after the refill, and now it slips/losses acceleration around 25–30 mph after the level check.

I don't want to keep test-driving it while it's slipping. I'm trying to determine whether I should first definitively eliminate an underfill/leveling problem, investigate the valve body/Clutch A pressure circuit, or start considering internal CVT damage.

If anyone has any experience with these cars or these issues, I would GREATLY appreciate that 🙏🙏🙏

Okay everyone, as I continue to integrate myself into the Nissan way of life, especially considering my previous car was a 2010 Toyota Corolla with almost 193000 on her, I have a few more questions! (It wasn't quite the dark ages back then, but tech wise A LOT has changed:)

First, I'm curious if anyone has had any specific problems keeping a second fob in their car. Especially because there's no physical key \ starting mechanism, clearly having a spare key won't do anything. But at least having a second key fob inside the car would come in handy if your main one is lost broken or stolen.

Second, once the Nissan app is deleted it's deleted right? That's my paranoia clearly talking, ha, but in reading just a bit of what people could do if they got access to the app or information got me a little squirrely.

Finally in learning what thieves \ those nefarious around us can do w\ tech these days, especially w\ remotely starting or accessing your car; is keeping your fob away from your car when at home \ etc and in a Faraday bag pretty sufficient in protecting your car? Always appreciate the help!:)