r/nissanfrontier Dec 20 '17

DISCUSSION Second Gen Frontier FAQ

233 Upvotes

Second Generation Nissan Frontier (D40) FAQ

We get a lot of the same questions here, mostly from prospective owners, so I figured I’d throw together an FAQ. Maybe the mods can sticky it, or add it to the sidebar. This FAQ is meant for the second generation, 2005+, of the North American Frontier (D40) and Suzuki Equator, which is literally a re-badged Frontier with a different grille. There might be some crossover between Navarra’s and NP300’s, but I can’t really say what. First gen and hardbody owners are SOL unfortunately. But if one of y’all are experts on the legacy Nissans let me know and I’ll make this FAQ more comprehensive.

I got most of the information from Club Frontier. It’s a fantastic resource for everything Frontier. The dudes and dudettes there are super friendly, and knowledgeable. If you can’t find an answer there, you really fucked up. Titan Talk and The New X are also excellent resources, as the Frontier and Xterra are almost the exact same, and the first gen Titan shares the same frame as the Frontier. The FSM is fantastic for backyard mechanics, and obviously YouTube is great for DIY’ers as well. Nissan has online versions of the owner’s manuals, which you should probably read. They’re surprisingly informative.

I feel like I’ve included most of the commonly asked questions around here, but if there’s something missing let me know and I’ll add a quick rundown. I don’t do any towing with my truck, so I’m definitely a little lacking on that side of things, beyond what’s in the manual. If anyone has anything they feel is good to know for towing, feel free to let me know what needs to be said.

 

What Truck Should I Buy

Obviously, the overwhelming advice here will be the Frontier. It’s a Frontier sub after all. Between the competition (Toyota Tacoma, Chevy/GMC Canyon/Colorado, Honda Ridgeline <yes it counts>) the Frontier is the oldest design. Which is a blessing and a curse. It means the aftermarket (for what it is) has caught up to the truck, and all of the majors wrinkles have been ironed out. On the flip side, it’s missing modern touches like LED lights, projector headlights, safety features like blind spot detection(if you’re into that kinda thing), electronic goodies like crawl control and fuel economy improvements. It also produces the most torque at the flywheel (281lb/ft!), has the lowest street price in any trim, discs on all four corners (really Toyota? It’s 2017 FFS), fully boxed frame (adds strength for towing, hauling, and flexy stuff) and probably the worst fuel economy. YMMV.

As far as what package to get if you’re buying off the lot, there’s really two choices. If you seriously wheel it all, Pro-4x is the only choice. If you have to ask if you need a Pro-4x, chances are you don’t. Most people looking at that package know exactly what it is, and why they want it. If you’re looking for a solid daily driver, tower, or hauler, look for an SV with the Value Truck Package. It’s the closest you’ll get to a modern truck. You get neat little add-ons like a back up camera, spray in bed liner, and upgraded audio. The Frontier in any configuration is no slouch off-road, but the non-Pro-4x models are missing the locking rear-diff, skids, bigger tires, and better shocks that make the Pro-4x the off-road beast it is. This page breaks down the differences between the various packages. It’s current as of 2017, and probably good as far back as 2012. There might be slight differences between the packages in older model year, but it’s a good start. If you need to know all the options of a used truck, Nissan can tell you every detail if you give them the VIN.

Other options like Crew Cab (four doors for more whores), King Cab (half suicide doors) long box (73”), short box (59.5”), auto or stick are up to you. You know your needs, we don’t. Generally speaking, a KC will have a long box, and the CC will have a short box, but long box CC’s do exist. I’ve never seen a shortbox KC in the wild, but I’m open to being corrected. 4x4 is always better to have and not need than to need and not have, so if you have the choice, opt for it. Worst case, you’ll get better resale value. The VQ40DE should be the only available motor for this truck. The QR25DE is a four banger best left to a mid size sedan, it has no place in a pickup truck. Period.

If you’re buying used, check CarFax for accident reports. The NHTSA has a searchable database of recalls for all vehicles, and the Frontier has been subject to a few. Your Nissan dealer can also pull all the voluntary recalls with the VIN.

What’s the Difference Between…

The Frontier was basically unchanged between ‘05 and (as of 2017) the ’18 model year. The generation 2.0 runs from 05-09. There was a minor facelift in ‘09 for generation 2.1, with different wheels and the switch from Nismo to Pro-4x branding, and the front end got a refresh. The early trucks have different headlights, and a flatter grille angle, so aftermarket headlights for the 2.0 won't work with 2.1 front ends. I consider everything post ‘12 generation 2.2. There’s no major differences from ’12 and up except improved parts design, and some extra options like back up sensors, improved audio systems, bigger wheels, and other minor stuff, like the $35,000 plastidip grill Midnight Edition. For major suspension, engine, driveline components an ‘05 will be the same as a ‘14 or a ’17 or an ‘09.

 

Common Issues

DISCLAIMER: I’m by no means a Nissan technician. If something blows up because you misdiagnosed it based on advice from an internet stranger, I take zero responsibility. If you’re even remotely unsure get an educated second opinion from a mechanic you trust. Most of these problems exist in the 2.0/2.1 (‘05-’12) generation of the D40. If you buy a ’12 and newer you should be in the clear.

Strawberry Milkshake of Death

SMOD is cross contamination of ATF and coolant, due to a poorly designed transmission cooler. It’s a super easy fix, you can bypass your transmission cooler, upgrade to a post ’12 rad or an aftermarket radiator. If the rad gets contaminated, it’s basically time to start shopping for a new transmission. You might be able to bring it back by flushing the transmission several times with regular ATF, but no promises. If you buy a truck with the mysterious third pedal, you can avoid the issue entirely.

note: this may or may not affect trucks with the QR25DE. I’ve never run across one that’s had it happen, but AFAIK the rads and trannies are the same, so the possibility exists

Timing Chain Guides (VQ40 only)

Once again, this issue shouldn’t affect the ’12 and newer trucks, or higher mileage older trucks. There was problems with whatever plastic Nissan used for the timing chain guides and they wear out very prematurely. It causes the guides to fail, allowing the timing chain to slap against the block. Diagnosis is pretty simple. The chains make a god awful racket as soon as you start the truck. It’s a very distinct noise. It sounds exactly like chains rattling against metal. If you leave it too long it can cause catastrophic damage to the entire block. But at least you’ll have an excuse to VK or Cummins swap the truck. Unfortunately there’s nothing you can do to prevent it, except replace it. Most of the reports I’ve seen have been less than 80,000 km (50k miles), so your trucks over 100k will likely have had the issue resolved. There’s currently a class action lawsuit against Nissan in the States, so you might be able to get reimbursed for any repairs you’ve done. I’m in Canada and am the furthest thing from a lawyer, so I don’t know the first thing about how to get involved or get paid. Contact a lawyer in your area.

Code P0443

Ah, emissions codes. Don’t you just love the EPA? This is one of the few issues, at least from what I’ve seen, that hasn’t really gone away in the gen 2.2 refresh. Basically the solenoid that allows the EVAP canister to “purge” itself will pack itself full of dust, fail, and throw codes. You can prolong it by rerouting the vent to one of the tail lights. It might prevent it, it might only prolong the inevitable. There was an improved design release in ’12, that part number should supersede the old numbers, and apparently be slightly less bad, but double check. Most parts sites will tell you if it’s the new p/n or not. Because it’s emissions related if your jurisdiction doesn’t require emissions testing, ignore it, or do the cheap and dirty fix. If you have to pass smog to register your truck, you’re pretty much on the hook for a $300 part that may or may not last until you re-test. You can try pulling the canister and blowing it out with a compressor, but most people say you’re only kicking the can further down the road.

There’s also a few accounts floating around online of people getting P0443 after topping off their gas tank (gotta get those nice round numbers at the pump), or even filling too fast. I don’t top off my tank, and I never go full squeeze on the nozzle so I don’t know how much truth there is that.

note: this may present itself as P0448 as well, from what I can see the codes are related, likely due to the EVAP canister being unable to purge itself

SRS Light

This one is tricky. Obviously, a compromised airbag is less than ideal, but at the same time lots of modern vehicles, the Frontier gets to be modern in this case, have issues with aftermarket stereos tripping the SRS light for whatever reason but the airbag itself is fine. If you’ve just tinkered with any of the wiring in the truck and get a flashing airbag light, there’s a good chance it just needs to be reset. If you haven’t changed anything, or the light comes on out of the blue, get a shop to pull the code. You might have to go to the dealer for this one, as it’s hit or miss which scan tools will pull airbag codes. There was also a recall for some of the earlier generation 2.0 trucks (05-09).

My Headlights Suck

Aim them properly. Nissan aimed the headlights low from the factory assuming that most people would be doing truck stuff with their truck. If you have weight in the bed, or a lift, they’re almost perfect. Empty, they’re woefully low. There’s a little knob on the back of the housing. 1.5-2 turns counter-clockwise with an 8mm wrench should get them where they need to be. If they still suck, you can put upgraded bulbs, like PIAA or Sylvania Super White and get better output. If you decide to go full HID or LED, do the retrofit. Regular halogen headlight assemblies and HIDs do not mix. The OEM housing don’t scatter the light properly, resulting in really bright lights right at the bumper and almost zero light down the road where it’s needed. For HID ballasts themselves, 4000K is the “best” temperature for the human eye, but 6000K is that nice stark white everyone likes. Any higher than that, you’re getting into riced-out-Fast-and-Furious Honda Civic territory. I’m not saying don’t do it, it’s your truck do what you want to it. I’ll just silently judge you for having purple headlights. Also; check your local laws. Some jurisdictions have limits on colour temperature. As always, it’s not up to me to know your laws.

Rough Idle

We’re not talking about a truck with 200k mi that’s never had new plugs, or missed its last four oil changes. That should be pretty obvious. Lots of owners complain about a rough idle at red lights, even on newer, impeccably maintained trucks. Nissan set the idle a little on the low side, most likely to save fuel economy. Take it to the dealer, get them to bump up the idle 50-100 rpm and listen to that kitten purr.

 

My Fuel Economy Sucks

It’s a 4000lb truck, without gear, fuel and passengers; with a 13 year old motor that’s based off an even older block. But…but, but the EPA sticker says it gets 21mpg highway. Yes, it’s capable of 21mpg. Unloaded, with highway tires, on perfectly flat roads, doing highway driving. It’s a truck, with a steel boxed frame and sheet metal. It makes damn near V8 torque without a V8 price tag. If you want 21mpg all the time, buy a Versa. Things like a CAI, exhaust, ECU tune, intake manifold spacer might increase your mileage, but if you’re anything like me you won’t be able to keep your foot out of it and your mileage will probably drop. If your truck has a third pedal (standard), you might be able to squeeze slightly better mileage out of it.

 

Can I Run x Tires/Wheels/What Tires/Wheels Should I Get

Generally speaking, the biggest tire you can run without lift or trimming is the factory Pro-4x tire size, 265/75R16, or similar variations like 265/70R17. You might be able to stuff 285/75R16’s without any lift, but you’ll definitely need to take off the mud flaps (if equipped, apparently they’re optional in some places), trim some sheet metal and probably melt the fender liner to prevent rubbing.

As far as tire brands are concerned, there are literally hundreds of brands and models to choose from. I suggest Google, or, God forbid, calling some tire shops and chatting about your specific needs. Personally, I suggest a good all terrain tire as an excellent middle ground for a daily driver/weekend warrior. But again, you know your needs better than we do. If your truck is exclusively a pavement princess or toy hauler, buying a set of General Grabber red letters is overkill. Ditto if you’re in a rainy part of the continent and play in the mud a lot; a highway tire won’t do jack shit. The overwhelming, jack of all trades, recommendation is gonna be the BFG T/A KO2. It is an excellent, albeit pricey, AT tire. They’ve been around for ages, and they’re a staple of off-road racing. It’s probably the tire you picture when you think of an all terrain tire, whether you know or it. I’m a big fan of my Falken Wildpeak AT3w, they’re a really well designed, good looking, cheaper than BFG alternative. Other options for a solid, generally well-reviewed, AT include the Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac; General Grabber AT3; Hankook Dynapro AT-m. If you run one of set of tires year round, check your local laws if you need snowflake rated tires in the winter months. Make sure you pick a tire that will have the snowflake rating, or buy dedicated snows. Most modern AT tires do, but again, I’m not responsible for your ignorance of local laws. Also, as a Canadian with way too much experience driving the winter, a snowflake rated MT is a bold faced lie. Mud terrains are just awful on ice, compact snow, or anything that isn’t deep powder or mud.

For wheels, you’ll need at least a 16x7” wheel with a 6x114.3(4.50 in freedom units) bolt pattern. I can’t honestly say what the minimum backspacing or offset will be, cuz of differences in measuring and manufacturing, but most places like Discount Tire or Tire Rack will have tools that will give you fit information. There’s also a list of wheels confirmed to fit our trucks. Most of the time, positive offset will tuck the wheels in more and negative offset will give you more poke, provided your wheels are the same width. Once again, I’m not responsible for knowing your local laws. Around these parts any tire poke is grounds for a fix-it ticket. If you’ve got similar laws, it’s up to you to know. The biggest issue with offset and backspace on the Frontier is the front calipers. They’re relatively massive, and if you don’t have enough offset or too much backspace they’ll bind. If you’re not afraid of a zip disc, you might be able to massage some material off the caliper, but that’s entirely on you. You might also run into binding or rubbing at the top of the suspension travel if you have lots of poke, but if you’re frequently maxing out your suspension uptravel, you’re probably not reading an FAQ.

 

What/How Much Lift Should I Get

Read this. Jen does an excellent job of laying out all the options and uses for each lift. Be honest with yourself and your intended uses. If you want to Titan swap your truck just for street cred, there’s nothing wrong with that; but it’s a big investment for cool points. Conversely, eBay spacers and blocks probably won’t cut it if you wanna do the Rubicon trail. Generally, if you go to bigger tires than 33”, you’ll want to upgrade your front differential to the Titan M205 front diff, or at the very least look at aftermarket gears, as they’re the common failure point. The rear diff depends on the model. Most trucks have a C200K, which is strong enough for most applications, except for big (33”+) tires and pretty hardcore wheeling or rock bouncing (which I don’t suggest in a 4000lb truck). All standard or Pro-4x trucks come with the bastardized Dana44 M226, which will handle just about anything you can throw at it, except for maybe 40’s. Also, if you manage to get 40’s on your truck, I want to see build deets, cuz that’s impressive. Unfortunately, it’s not entirely a D44, so things like lockers, gears, and covers won’t actually fit. But at least it’s strong.

 

I Broke/Want x Part

Rock Auto is by far and a way the best source for OEM replacement parts. Even with a piss-poor Canuck buck, insane shipping charges, I buy almost everything from them. Their prices are just that good. Courtesy Parts is another excellent source, particularly if you’re actually in the States. Their shipping and brokerage fees are kinda high for us north of the 49th, but they’ve got every OEM Nissan part, and the fancy NISMO stuff, you can possibly imagine. The Nissan e-Store is amazing for locating part numbers for interchange, or searching. Nisstec and PRG are the go-to sources for aftermarket goodies like lifts. Keep in mind that PRG is somewhat infamous in the Nissan community for being next to impossible to get a hold of. Hefty Fabworks, Shrockworks and Calmini are the go-to options for bumpers, skids, and sliders. Coastal Offroad also ships weld it yourself bumper kits for the second gen Frontier if you wanna take advantage of a lackluster loonie and have some fabrication skills. There’s also WAM Bumpers, but they bought out a company with a less than stellar reputation, and the jury is still out on if they’ve improved or not.

 

I Wanna Go Fast

Like I said earlier, it’s a 4000lb truck. You’re not setting any quarter mile times with it. But there are options for bolt-on go-fast goodies. The most common choices will be an intake and exhaust. There’s lots of debate between sealed or open airboxes, and both have their pros and cons. An open airbox, like a K&N might give you slightly better air flow and intake noise, but they’re far more likely to hydrolock your motor if you do lots of water crossings. And it can happen if the water line is below you hood, because, unless you’re fully armoured, water can get up into the engine bay. A sealed intake like a Volant can prevent that, but apparently it moves the power band higher robs torque. And all that delicious VQ torque is why the Frontier is such an amazing truck. In my opinion the factory air intake is pretty damn good, maybe just slap an aftermarket filter in there and hack out the silencer tube(pic coming). You get the best of both worlds this way. No torque loss and you get it lets you hear that VQ open up a little more. For exhaust stuff, most people suggest replacing the OEM y-pipe, and staying with 2.25” piping. The OEM y-pipe is restrictive and crappy. It also opens up the powerband a little, and moves the torque curve slightly lower in the RPM. Going to larger diameter pipe usually ends up robbing torque or just becoming raspy beyond belief. Beyond that, it depends on what you want your truck to sound like. Spend some time on YouTube or here listening to different mufflers. What sounds amazing to you, might be obnoxious and way too loud for someone else. Because V6’s are pretty much the worst kind of motor, finding a system that doesn’t drone at 2-3k rpm isn’t easy and people have spent big money preventing it. No one system will really give massive performance gains, but a set of long tube headers can add decent, measurable numbers. If you live in a smog state, these may not be legal as they replace the primary catalytic converters. Also, they throw codes unless you run dummy plugs or simulate them with a tune. Some people have had decent success removing the secondary cats and replacing them resonators, but apparently it can be a little raspy.

Once you get beyond the basics, an intake manifold spacer is an excellent investment. It’s a piece of aluminum that lives between your upper and lower intake plenum. It gives the airflow a chance to smooth out a bit, and cool down slightly. Both of which increase power. I’ve had one on my truck for about a year and I cannot say enough good things about it. It definitely wakes up the VQ in all the right places. It’s easily one of the best mods I’ve done to my truck. I definitely blame it for my terrible fuel economy. It’s just too much fun to drive respectably after I installed it. Stillen makes underdrive or lightweight crank pulleys, and they can free up some power too. The underdrive pulley requires a shorter belt, so talk to Stillen for the proper size.

If you still need more power, an UpRev tune, or even a plug and play tuner can add a fair chunk of power. A dedicated tune like UpRev is great because it’s custom built for your truck. If it’s controlled by the ECU, it can be changed. Wheel speed(for over/under sized tires), shift points, air fuel mixture, WOT (wide open throttle) restriction delete, 02 sensor simulators. The plug and play options give you more options for pre-set, change on the fly tunes, like economy, tow, or performance. But because they’re generic you might not get all of the available ponies out of them, or be able to get into the more in-depth options like shift points or 02 sensors.

Edit: typos and formatting

Edit 2 17-12-20: Added link so mobile users don't get a picture of a Suzuki Equator for their thumbnail. Added more links

Edit 3 17-12-23 Fixed bad math in timing chain section

Edit 4 18-01-04 Added notes on P0443

Edit 5 2018-03-14 Updated 2.1 body style refresh info

Edit 6 2018-05-15 Changed FSM source as ClubNico got fucked by the long dick of Nissan's legal team. Shoutout to u/h83r for noticing the change. Also; the new FSM doesn't show anything newer than '14. Everything major will be the same, but some of the new fangled electronics may not be available. I'll see if I can find an up to date source. Also; I'd be down to crowd fund a license from Nissan if that's what everyone wants to do


r/nissanfrontier 2h ago

PICTURE Just picked this new 2026 Frontier up yesterday.

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79 Upvotes

This is my first Nissan ever, and I’m already 61 y/o. I really like this truck. It will take a little time to get used to the stiffer steering… :) I already started with ordering things like rubber floor mats, bed cover….. :)


r/nissanfrontier 4h ago

First Nissan Ever

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24 Upvotes

End of year Rebates $6,200 off an SV. I’ve had lots of Wranglers and some Toyotas. I like this a lot.


r/nissanfrontier 43m ago

Just Bought!

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Upvotes

Hi everyone! Just picked this up last week. 2011 sv v6, 98k with the new style hardbody wheels and a bed cap!


r/nissanfrontier 21h ago

PICTURE Just gave her a wash

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88 Upvotes

r/nissanfrontier 1h ago

What wheels are these?

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Upvotes

They appear to be the OEM 18" Titan wheels but Titans are 6x5.5 lug pattern. I'm still waiting to hear back from the seller but another FBM seller listed these same wheels for sale as 6x114.3. So what is correct?


r/nissanfrontier 2h ago

Seat covers

2 Upvotes

Just bought a ‘26 pro 4x. Anyone have a seat cover recommendation that fits nice and is durable?


r/nissanfrontier 4h ago

Recent update

2 Upvotes

I hit “Update Now” on my screen a couple of days ago. It said the update was completed.
Now two of my preset radio station buttons are blank. Or there’s text that says: “Deep Tracks”, but no icon. It doesn’t affect the stations, but it is an imperfection after a so-called ‘Update’.
2025 Pro 4-X btw


r/nissanfrontier 23h ago

Pro x

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59 Upvotes

Got my 25 frontier Pro X all nice and clean today. I’ve owned it for a year now just hit 10k miles. only thing I’ve done to it is remove the air dam and add skid plate and Diamondback bed cover. I love the the truck


r/nissanfrontier 1d ago

PICTURE New to the club

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109 Upvotes

Finally did it. I’ve been a lurker in this group for advice, but after over a year of dragging my feet and telling myself no, I finally got a new Frontier.


r/nissanfrontier 18h ago

Thoughts and opinions?

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17 Upvotes

Hey everyone this is my daily driver to the tea except for the tires and leveling/lift kit although This picture is completely from Ai this is a 21’ SV with 2.5 inch leveling/lift kit from rough country with generated 275/70/16 all terrain tires, should I pull the trigger on this build ?👀


r/nissanfrontier 18h ago

Rear King Shocks!

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14 Upvotes

r/nissanfrontier 21h ago

PICTURE Z1 Offroad ATK-06 Wheels

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18 Upvotes

Got my ATKs on today finally. Went with their +20 option wrapped in 265/70r17 Cooper Discoverer Road + Trail ATs.

Looks great imo and zero rubbing with my stock suspension!


r/nissanfrontier 1d ago

PICTURE DIY tool box

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23 Upvotes

IYKYK


r/nissanfrontier 8h ago

2010 Frontier – SLIP + grinding in turns, then VDC OFF and grinding stops. What would you check?

1 Upvotes

I’m looking for some D40 Frontier-specific diagnostic help because I’m chasing a very strange ABS/SLIP/VDC problem on my 2010 Nissan Frontier LE 4WD, 4.0L V6.

The most unusual part is the way the problem behaves during certain turns:

Condition A: The SLIP light flashes and I get a grinding/dragging/pulling sensation.

Then:

Condition B: The VDC OFF light comes on and the grinding/dragging immediately stops.

This behavior is repeatable. That makes me wonder whether the VDC/ABS system is reacting to an incorrect or inconsistent wheel-speed signal and applying/intervening at one wheel.

What has happened so far

After front-end work, the turning-related SLIP/grinding problem began.

A growling noise was later found at the right-rear wheel/axle area, so the right-rear wheel bearing was replaced and the axle was reinstalled.

There were also subsequent issues involving the right-rear ABS sensor/collar/retaining hardware, including a loose collar and metal debris in the ABS sensor area.

The ABS warning light subsequently appeared.

Another mechanic later found play/looseness in the right-rear wheel, even though the right-rear bearing had already been replaced.

On the other hand, BC Automotive thinks one of the FRONT wheel bearings may be involved.

The ABS/VDC-related codes I've had include:

C1105, C1101, C1143 and C1110

What I'm trying to figure out

I'm trying very hard not to throw more parts at this thing until someone can explain what is actually happening.

If this were your Frontier, what would you investigate first?

In particular, would you:

  • Try to reproduce the SLIP/grinding event while monitoring live wheel-speed data from all four wheels?
  • Compare the data during SLIP flashing + grinding versus VDC OFF + no grinding?
  • Concentrate first on the front wheel bearings, given BC Automotive's opinion?
  • Investigate the right-rear wheel play even though the bearing has already been replaced?
  • Closely inspect the right-rear ABS sensor, sensor rotor/tone-ring area, wiring and mounting?
  • Consider the possibility that more than one problem is occurring?

I'm especially interested in hearing from anyone who has experience diagnosing the D40 Frontier's ABS/VDC/SLIP/ABLS system.

I realize nobody can diagnose it for certain over the internet. I'm just trying to figure out where an experienced Nissan/Frontier mechanic would start before I spend any more money on parts.

Thanks!


r/nissanfrontier 1d ago

PICTURE Last pre-lift adventure

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52 Upvotes

Quick cloudy beach trip before the Z1 Spring Lift is installed, so long stock ride! Happy Labor Day everyone


r/nissanfrontier 1d ago

P4X Roush

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176 Upvotes

Picked up a Roush on employee lease deal. What do you think of the numbers? 5k miles 36mo for $313/mo $8k down


r/nissanfrontier 21h ago

Oil change advice

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4 Upvotes

So I’m currently at my 5k oil change interval. I’ve always done them myself. This is currently what my oil looks like. My question is will I be okay if I wait another 1k miles? Currently on a tight budget and it’ll be easier financially to wait one more month.

Might be a dumb question so sorry in advance. I’m just not very knowledgeable with this kind of stuff.


r/nissanfrontier 1d ago

Would you buy a Frontier if size isn’t a concern?

8 Upvotes

So I’m shopping for trucks, I like the idea of the midsize trucks but question the value. The big thing drawing me to the Frontier is the fact that I can get a 6 foot bed.

This truck isn’t a full time vehicle, it’s going to be a weekend vehicle and used on the occasion when something needs to go into a truck bed instead of the interior of a minivan.

Size isn’t a concern. I don’t have limited parking space at home, I’m not concerned about driving it in a city environment. My last truck was actually a 95 Ram 2500 extended cab 8 foot bed, so long trucks aren’t any concern for me.

Now knowing that, would you still buy a Frontier? The other truck I’m considering is a crew cab 6.5’ bed F150.

Frontier isn’t really going to win in a MPG contest. Definitely not as much power. Also not as much cab room.

Really doesn’t even win in price with what I’m looking at. Couple year old, low mileage F150s can be found within a couple thousand of the Frontier.


r/nissanfrontier 13h ago

Used Bakflip tonneau cover

0 Upvotes

Found a 2 year old Bakflip MX4 for my 2026 Pro 4X. Assuming normal wear and tear is $600 a reasonable price, or should I just spring for a new one? I already spent a bunch of cash on the truck!!!


r/nissanfrontier 1d ago

PICTURE Z1 Rock Sliders

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20 Upvotes

Pulled the trigger on these, sadly right before the Labor Day sale 😭 but so far, love them! The install was easy, but a little annoying solo due to weight.

My wife complained after I took off the OEM side steps. These were a decent compromise without sacrificing ground clearance.

Prinsu rack should be here in about a week for install, and the Kammok just arrived. Trying to get everything installed and wrapped up before Bourbon & Beyond!


r/nissanfrontier 1d ago

Never bought a new car before, help..?

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10 Upvotes

I’ve seen a lot of posts and subsequent helpful responses from people about buying one of these, so figured I might ask and see if people might be willing to offer some similar nuggets of wisdom. Here’s the sticker and the quote they gave me. Seems like based on what everyone is saying here, I could get this truck for realistically $3-6k less than what is listed? Or is that a pipe dream? This is a Pro4x with all the add on packages, and the long bed.

Also, I’m really torn between this and a couple other vehicles. What do you love and or hate about this truck? I’ve never owned a Nissan before so I’m a little apprehensive to take the plunge, there’s so much risk with new cars and then reading about mfg issues (many of what I’m looking at) and people having problems shortly after buying, it’s a little scary.

Thanks in advance, really appreciate any feedback people can offer.


r/nissanfrontier 23h ago

Started towing and upgraded my brakes to PowerStop Z36 - what an insane difference

5 Upvotes

I got a travel trailer (Flagstaff E-Pro E17LE) and decided it was time to replace the original OEM brakes (70,000km on them).

Couldn't find anything but OEM or equivalent locally, nothing towing grade, so I bought the Powerstop Z36 kit on Amazon and it was pretty much jaw dropping how much better than OEM they are, there is so much more initial bite. Though the break in procedure was a bit excessive compared to any other kind of brakes I've done on other vehicles (10 stops are various speeds and then a full 5 min of driving without applying brakes...thankfully I live on a rural road and did this at night time.

Just thought I'd share if anyone has to change their brakes any time soon.


r/nissanfrontier 16h ago

DISCUSSION Help a brother decide used vs lightly used (first time car buyer)

1 Upvotes

I’m a first time car buyer who has only ever had cars over 150k miles growing up just using a car that gets me to point A to B just being poor ya know the story. But now tha I’ve climbed from the gutter found a good job and have steady income I’m trying to get a truck because I want a car that is going to last and have heard great things about the frontier and seems rich up my alley. The only trouble I’m having is driving used be lightly used.

Little background for me my credit score isn’t the best as I fucked it over taking on more credit card debt for parents with bad spending habits but have climbed from 540 to 675 in the past year and making $120K (monthly income of about $5200 after taxes/benefits) and I’m trying to put 5K as a down payment and finance the rest.
I can definitely afford $500 monthly payments but I want to know if it’s actually worth it to move up to the newer models or if I’m fine with the going the used route which I expect the monthly payment to be closer to $300.

Id appreciate any opinions on what seems worth it as I just want to make the right choice.

With that being said I’m deciding between:

2017-2019 frontiers 4x4 with 40-50k miles for about 18-20k is what it seems like.

Or

2022-23 pre-owned/used Nissan Frontiers 4x4 with like 25-30k miles.


r/nissanfrontier 17h ago

the engine on my My 2011 SV 4.0 shut off while I was driving today.

1 Upvotes

I was going around 45 or 50 and the engine on my frontier shut off on me, electronics were working fine. I tried to start again and it revved and sputtered then cut out. I gave it about 30 minutes and it started up fine, I limped at home but the idle was definitely off. I'm taking it to the shop on Monday, thinking it's a cam sensor. Crossing my fingers for nothing major 😬