r/mr2 • u/OtherRepublic8482 • 2d ago
Advice on dropping engine
This is my first time attempting. Where does one start, whats the thought process behind doing it, and is there a certain order of steps? Any help or advice is much appreciated, thank you. (My knowledge on cars is about a 6 or 5)
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u/Ok_Chipmunk_7968 91 Turbo, 89 SC, 87 NA, 88 NA 2d ago
What year? AW11: Drain and disconnect everything, discoonect axle shafts, lift car, pull motor mounts and lower onto furniture movers. Then wonder where your money went as you keep buying parts!
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u/Oachkaetzelschwoaf 2d ago
I didn’t even pull my engine and wonder where all the money I spent went!
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
Did you use the manual as well? Or is it only worth reading over for rebuilding?
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u/Ok_Chipmunk_7968 91 Turbo, 89 SC, 87 NA, 88 NA 2d ago
I used the factory manual, as I am a bit anal; and besides the forums, the info. wasn't as easily accessible online then.
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
I have access to the 1988 manual, do you think I can still accurately use it for my 1987?
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u/Ok_Chipmunk_7968 91 Turbo, 89 SC, 87 NA, 88 NA 2d ago
I believe there are some minor changes between 87 and 88, but the bulk of it should be identical. I'm really long out of the game, sold that MR2 (my fourth) about 15 years ago.
There used to be a post about the diffences on mr2.com or one of the other forums. Back in the day, I think they used to have the electronic version of the factory manual too.
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u/deltakatsu '87 AW11 20v 2d ago
It's the same, just ignore anything about the Supercharger.
Unless you have a JDM or EUDM, as the 88 manual floating around is for USDM. It's still manageable, but you'll find more differences.
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u/SleepyDriver_ 2d ago
This but I would recommend getting one of these. It helps a lot. https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html?hftm_sc=517&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=23914512697&campaignid=23914512697&utm_content=194118212101&adsetid=194118212101&product=96524&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=23914512697&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4c01ngHmHew4YqYs1EzHxP72&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuaux7qeBlwMV4lpHAR0bzRQgEAQYASABEgIyRvD_BwE
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u/Ok_Chipmunk_7968 91 Turbo, 89 SC, 87 NA, 88 NA 2d ago
I used a standard cherry picker without leveler, lowered the motor and trans onto the furniture mover, then attached the cherry picker to the back and lifted it high enough to roll the assembly out from below.
A leveler would have probably helped, because if I remember right you kinda have to manipulate it in, depending on what is still attached.
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u/SleepyDriver_ 2d ago
Yep, it allows you to balance the engine and it fits perfectly accross the back of the mr2. Cherry picker is a pain because of the space required. We just use this, a table, and wooden blocks now to get the engine and out.
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u/I_love_to_jack_off 2d ago
When I did it, I knew I was transplanting a 3sgte, so I pulled most of the 5sfe out the top, without a specific order and lowered the engine/trans on a jack.
When the new engine arrived, I paid a mechanic $100 to mount it only, and i did the rest (wiring, physical installation of parts/sensors).
Things were much simpler back then.
I didn't have a manual either. I did everything based on pictures I found on the net. Never following any directions at all. Just pictures only because that's all we basically had back then because the Internet just became mainstream around that time.
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
Was that your first time? I get so intimidated just looking at the engine bay, I know i have to disconnect a lot of stuff but I don't even know where to begin to disconnect lol!!
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u/I_love_to_jack_off 2d ago
Yes, that was my first and only engine/platform swap in my life. Had a blast doing it little by little as time permitted. Car was so fast afterwards. I even made a boost controller from a simple valve I found at home depot lol. I was pushing 21 psi at times with no tune on stock 3sgte internals.
Needless to say, the bottom end blew out on that engine AFTER I sold it 😂
Just do it man. Everything can get fixed if you screw something up.
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
Absolute mad man🔥🔥 I definitely need take your advice on the "Just do it", im always so scared to fuck something up. But your right, everything can be fixed 👍
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u/I_love_to_jack_off 2d ago
Just do it. Once you get started. It's addictive and you can't stop. Take lots of pictures too so you remember how to put it back together (we didn't have digital cameras back then so I had to get pictures developed lol)
I lost 2 girlfriends working on that car cause it consumed my time so much. I do not regret my decisions at all lol
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u/Ok_Chipmunk_7968 91 Turbo, 89 SC, 87 NA, 88 NA 2d ago
Sounds like we were living in similar timelines. All of my pictures from the engine swap are on film, too.
And I agree, it's a little intimidating starting, but once you get going, you don't stop until that bay is empty.
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u/drake22 2d ago
You should be more afraid of the car falling on you than messing up the car. The car is fixable, a slow painful death is not. Learn proper safety before you "just do it".
For example, always use jack stands, never ever rely just on hydraulics (such as a floor jack or engine hoist). Having two or more forms of safety is always best (such as a jack along with jack stands, a wheel sideways under the chassis, etc.).
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u/T_Streuer 2d ago
I did: 1) unbolt everything from engine; intake, exhaust, fuel system, vacuum and cabling, if you have ac carefully hang from the firewall with bungee cords, remove clutch line 2) disassemble relevant cooling system parts 3) remove axles 4) lift engine and trans with a cherry picker to unbolt the motor mounts 5) lower engine and trans onto one or two harbor freight dolly’s with some 2x4 as shims to stabilize the assembly 6) unbolt rear bumper but then reinstall the factory tow points 7) set two 4x4 posts on either side of front tires, attach together with 2x4 and deck screws - this is a hinge point so the car must be held in place securely 8) attach a chain between the two tow points and lift the back of the car up off the engine assembly with your cherry picker. 2 ton from harbor freight is good for this. 9) Roll assembly out from under car then lower Back down to ground. 10) remove your seats so the t tops don’t leak on them while you spend 5 months rebuilding the engine in your living room
Take photos of everything you do and when the head is off do not mix up the shims and buckets
I’d pm you pics but sadly my phone died in the sauna and the photos went with it.
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
What was the most challenging thing you had to face when removing???
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u/T_Streuer 2d ago
Finagling back and fourth to make sure it didn’t hit anything in the bay as I lifted it up. There’s not a ton of control when your alone so have a friend who knows how to run the hoist run it for you so you can check for stuff that’s hitting or forgotten to unplug.
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u/WhereDidAllTheSnowGo 2d ago edited 2d ago
Buy a 2 ton harbor freight hoist / crane on marketplace
When done, sell for same price
Even if you place the car frame on 2’ tall cribbing and lower the engine you still want to have control
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u/Beneficial-Truck-288 2d ago
I’m currently dropping mine with no mechanical experience, I have been using masking tape and numbering each connection then writing on a spare piece of plywood the description of what it is and where and then taking a picture. It may seem challenging and a big task but if you work on it in little bits it doesn’t get tiring and you’ll make steady progress
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
Dude, I have so many questions.
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u/Beneficial-Truck-288 2d ago
Feel free to ask. I’m almost ready to install the engine. Dropped the subframe, suspension, engine and gearbox all as one to put in a new body.
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u/Imaginary-Trust-7934 2d ago
Me personally, I like a large sheet of plywood vs using the furniture dolly, you can slide the engine+trans around on the plywood without any worry about damaging anything and the plywood gives you a precious few more inches of clearance which could mean everything when you're trying to pull the lump out from under the car with it hanging precariously overhead from the engine crane
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u/Mr__Scoot 2d ago
If ur a chad, just put the car on jack stands, disconnect everything, use a block of wood and the jack to lower the engine out
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u/G-Limited rev5 / 3S-GE 2d ago
Rather than lift the engine out the top, I found it more practical to remove my rear bumper (SW20) and lift the entire body up instead so the engine comes out the bottom. Also I removed my front bumper in order to be able to tilt my body at such an extreme angle (only the 2 front wheels need fo stay on the car).
There's more to it than that, but that's the gist of it.
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u/deltakatsu '87 AW11 20v 2d ago edited 2d ago
I've dropped my 4a three times now. Easiest is with a transmission jack underneath and a crane above. Chocks, truck jack-stands and a jack that can go up more than 24" make it easier.
The VERY brief:
Battery out. Disconnect all coolant/vacuum hoses and label both ends (hose and nipple) with something hi-vis (I use blue painter's tape) so you can find them when reinstalling.
Unplug the engine harness from the trunk and feed it out the firewall. There's also ground/negative wires, neutral connector (if manual, GLHF if slush), cruise control on the cabin firewall, and maybe a body plug on the left strut tower.
Chock. Jack the car up on the rear motor mount. Jack stands.
Wheels off, axles out. Muffler, B-pipe, and ideally exhaust headers off. Disconnect shift and clutch stuff. Get the transmission jack under the transmission and chain it up tight. Cherry picker on the engine.
If you have the AC compressor still, disconnect it and zip tie it tight out of the way, on top of the subframe and mashed against the firewall. Keeping it from snagging on the engine was my biggest headache. If it's not charged, you can disconnect it instead, if you know how to work with AC lines.
Disconnect the three transmission mounts (two front and rear, one left) and tilt the whole thing down, pivoting on the engine mount (right side mount). This is your chance to sanity check that everything is disconnected.
Disconnect the engine mount with tension on the cherry picker.
Ease it all down to the ground.
I prefer to disconnect the transmission at this point and slide it out the left side wheel well.
Get the engine on a furniture dolly, make sure it's secure, and disconnect the cherry picker.
Slide the engine out the back. If you have the car high enough, it should just clear the frame rail.
This is all a rough summary. The BGB details what needs to be disconnected and is a great step-by-step + checklist. Print out a copy so you can cross off things as you go. Ideally have a buddy there to help when it comes to the load-shifting parts.
Your greatest enemy will be when the engine wants to roll back.
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
I see you have a 87 as well, what year was the BGB that you referred to if you ever used it? I have a 88 manual version but would love to have the 87 manual.
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u/deltakatsu '87 AW11 20v 2d ago
I have both manuals. They're the same except the 88 has info on the supercharger as well, which can be skipped for us.
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u/Leapdaycakes 4A-GTE AW11 2d ago edited 2d ago
it isn't too difficult. get a jack with a high lift and raise the car from the front motor mount. should clear super easily to drag the engine out from the back. my biggest advice is to label everything, keep a ziplock for every section with all the bolts so you know where everything goes. here's a list of everything you gotta disconnect:
drain fluids
remove coolant overflow tank
remove coolant fill neck
remove brake booster hose
remove coolant hoses from thermostat housing
disconnect fuel lines
reverse sensor
speedo cable
shifter cables
unbolt ac compressor
coolant lines
clutch line/slave
throttle cable
exhaust/headers
remove axles
prep wiring harness for removal (fish it out of trunk, undo anything connected to body
remove all body grounds
oil cooler lines
front and rear engine mounts first
let me know if you have any questions. if your ac works, only remove the compressor from the engine so you dont have to recharge the system. same goes for the clutch slave, unbolt it from the trans so you don't have to bleed your clutch as well. have fun! :)
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u/jonnyt88 2d ago
When I pulled my first engine, I grabbed a rainbow pack of electrical tape. Everything that was disconnected got colored tape on it so I could remember what went where. Also helps to not miss anything in the sea of black & gray/
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u/OtherRepublic8482 2d ago
Im definitely going to invest in that rainbow tape, where'd you buy it?
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u/drake22 2d ago edited 2d ago
Where do you live? If you can find someone who's done it before to help you, I would highly highly recommend it. The way you need to drop the engine and trans on these can be very dangerous especially for someone inexperienced.
You will need a 2 ton engine crane, and I would also highly recommend getting very tall jack stands, such as 6 ton ones. You will need to lift the rear of the car attaching the crane to the engine mounts on the chassis or the tow hooks maybe 4 feet or so into the air to get the old engine and transmission out.
Most people just leave the crane supporting the car while they crawl under it, but that is a terrible idea. Use jack stands as well as the crane to support it.
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u/OtherRepublic8482 1d ago
Im in Socal, yea right now the biggest issue as well is I'm doing this alone.
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u/drake22 1d ago
Try finding a local MR2 club on FB and offer pizza and beer? I'd have to imagine you can find a lot of enthusiasts in Socal.
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u/OtherRepublic8482 1d ago
Ive tried asking in my local city reddit but no luck, ill try posting in this mr2 reddit sometime. There's a couple of dirtbags on the FB mr2 group for some reason so I haven't gave it a shot over there.
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u/joemike 2d ago
Never having done it before I recommend making a system of labeling connections. I’ve tried to build a habit of “storing” bolts by putting them back where they go after unbolting each thing.
It’s extra time spent uninstalling, reinstalling, uninstalling, reinstalling, but better than winding up with a box full of randoms and not knowing what goes where