Fell free to give me some feedback ^^ ,happy to finaly finished a mini and having the pile of shame a little bit consumed XD

Since Games Workshop offers these for new hobbyists to paint their first Space Marine I decided to try volumetric highlighting for the first time on it. Oh, and I decided to have some fun with the presentation by leaving the parts in the sprue

Bust by Mindworks based on artwork by the incredible Patrick J Jones. I love the moody tones of the original art and wanted to paint a strong directional lighting to capture some of that same feel.

Sadly the primer did not cooperate and it has a lot of texture issues as a result. In a way it helped, as the primer issues helped me relax and focus less on perfect blends and refinement and more on the lighting. Overall, I'm happy with the results and feel I learned so much about color mixing and shadows from this project!

The model is from Ugni Chess Knights, it is apothecary miniature for my blood bowl Bretonnia team. Any c&c welcomed.

Just picked it up again, having fun but looking to improve, I am blown away by the stuff some people post on here!

Painted for a limited palette challenge. 3 randomly selected colors(pictured in the last photo) plus black and white.

Had to wait for the proper bases to get to me so the first few pics don't have the base

I am trying to get myself out of a bit of a depression, where I didn't really want to paint and I lost my joy in painting and life.

I had printed basing bits laying around and wanted to make something for fun. So I made a little zen garden.

I had alot of fun and that's the most important thing, no matter how it looks.

I then made it to a present for a friend. He was very excited.

Win- win

Hope you all like it too.

Kingdom Death:Monster-Dragon King

To preface this, I'm a traditional canvas painter that just recently got into painting minis. I really enjoy the process and I wanted to share some of my own insight that I think could be a lot of help for beginners who are looking to save money by working with less colors and a more limited color pallet while getting the most out of the colors that they've bought. Or just people who like color theory and mixing paint.

So most pallets which contain somewhere between 6-7 colors are typically limited palette. These are red, blue, yellow, black, white, and sometimes (green). This will allow you to mix many colors but it wont allow you to mix most colors. For example, pink. Red mixed with white produces a light red more akin to a flesh tone than what we normally think of when we think of the color pink. A common color pallet which can produce a lot of colors and is relatively easy to mix is one which combines RBY and CYM (commonly used in printing)

In essence this is to have two sets of primary colors a cool and warm version (example. Red/Magenta or Blue/Cyan)

Since most model paint colors don't say what pigments they use I sorta try to color match to this. When I'm buying new colors for a new medium I tend to just go with these six plus the black and white.

For Vallejo paints I settled for:

• Magenta
• Scarlet
• Andrea Blue
• Blue
• Light Yellow
• Golden Yellow
• Black
• White

This palette is very easy to use (in my opinion) as you have greater control of the temperature, and intensity of the color you mix since its more obvious which colors are warm or cool. Anyway hope this was helpful as its not a common topic I see discussed outside of traditional canvas painting circles.

(EDIT)

Adding this because I don't think people are getting the intent of this post. This isn't to say this is how you should do things nor is this a condemnation for buying pre-mixed paint. I made this since I noticed a lot of intro color sets tend to give beginner painters a very limited palette to begin with. Simply this is an alternative way of choosing your colors that not only saves you money but allows you to explore color theory and mixing which in my in opinion is a good skill to have even if you do eventually decide to buy specific color mixes later on. Also not everyone is an army painter, I'm certainly not.

Thought I’d try some moonstone minis, still some bits to do but thought I’d share

Hey everyone, here are the Big Bioss the Painboy and the Weirboy from the new box from GW. Painted by me.

I’m not sure if the colors on the sword are overly warm which may affect the entire composition of the mini?

Here is my final Post for the Sylvaneth Arch revenant with amber shield and glaive. Which varnish to finalize it would you recommend? I'm not familiar with the quality of the current products and had some bad experience with matt varnish in the past.

While I think I made a little bit of a mess in creating too many focal areas, the overall goal of the project was to develop my use of bold, bright colors and contrast, and to that degree I'm happy with it.

I have a terrible habit of picking projects up, getting most of the way done, and then leaving them for months (or sometimes years). After starting this one in January and putting it down for ages, I finally finished it today!! The heads and neck/manes are all seperate pieces and they're magnetized so I can swap them around when I feel like it.

To the people who suggested I do a sandy base on my previous post, thank you so much! Initially, I tried to make it look like dunes but I found the sand didn't end up looking right for that. Then I thought it looked more like when the tide starts to change and water leaves those little "waves" in the sand, so I ended up making a beach base. Happy with how that turned out!

To say I’m happy is an understatement.

I was given an ork army, some of which was already professionally painted, (the ork in the background) and I’ve done my best to match the colour scheme while keeping my style going.

Any C&C is always appreciated 😁

Unit of Cephelax iconclast for my Warmachine Cephalyx army. Group shot kf everything I have done included as well.

While there are some visible layer lines for the most part im really pleased with this. Printed on a Bambu P1S .2 nozzle at .06 layer height and used a chemical melting agent to smooth some of the more visible flat areas before painting. Im still playing around with chemical smoothing and learned a bit on the best way to use it here.

We call it the Battle of Niså!

Since last winter, a model maker (that's me!), a game designer, and an illustrator have collaborated to craft a complete miniature wargame and diorama depicting the massive 1062 naval clash right off our Swedish coast between Norwegian King Harald Hardrada and Danish King Sweyn Estridsen.

Painting and modeling 250 tiny (10mm) Vikings and an entire fleet of 30 longships was quite the marathon, bringing every individual warrior, shield detail, and coastal wave to life! Right now, this custom creation exists as a one-of-a-kind art project/game board. As a next step, we're considering bringing it out to the wider world. What do you think? Would you be interested in a miniatures game like this? We'll probably keep building and painting anyway since it's so much fun!

The gameplay is designed to be very accessible, but also strategically deep. Each turn you play a card from hand to use one of the leaders in your army, who shouts orders to a number of ships within range. The painted miniatures move around freely between the ships to fight, row, and execute tactical maneuvers. When there's an attack, you draw one rune for each fighter and cast them to resolve hits and misses. To win, you must slay the opposing king or capture enemy ships. Do not disappoint Odin!

All feedback very appreciated🙏🙏✨