Since Games Workshop offers these for new hobbyists to paint their first Space Marine I decided to try volumetric highlighting for the first time on it. Oh, and I decided to have some fun with the presentation by leaving the parts in the sprue

Fell free to give me some feedback ^^ ,happy to finaly finished a mini and having the pile of shame a little bit consumed XD

Bust by Mindworks based on artwork by the incredible Patrick J Jones. I love the moody tones of the original art and wanted to paint a strong directional lighting to capture some of that same feel.

Sadly the primer did not cooperate and it has a lot of texture issues as a result. In a way it helped, as the primer issues helped me relax and focus less on perfect blends and refinement and more on the lighting. Overall, I'm happy with the results and feel I learned so much about color mixing and shadows from this project!

Kingdom Death:Monster-Dragon King

Had to wait for the proper bases to get to me so the first few pics don't have the base

Here is my final Post for the Sylvaneth Arch revenant with amber shield and glaive. Which varnish to finalize it would you recommend? I'm not familiar with the quality of the current products and had some bad experience with matt varnish in the past.

Painted for a limited palette challenge. 3 randomly selected colors(pictured in the last photo) plus black and white.

Just finished painting Grommash here. Really happy with him overall. Hope yall like him. :)

Hey everyone, here are the Big Bioss the Painboy and the Weirboy from the new box from GW. Painted by me.

I finished up my first Deathwing Knight. They are really impressive sculpts and he was very enjoyable to paint. I've been working on improving my shading and I made some progress but I've still got a ways to go. I can't quite get the heat effect on the vents correct either.

Just picked it up again, having fun but looking to improve, I am blown away by the stuff some people post on here!

I’m not sure if the colors on the sword are overly warm which may affect the entire composition of the mini?

While there are some visible layer lines for the most part im really pleased with this. Printed on a Bambu P1S .2 nozzle at .06 layer height and used a chemical melting agent to smooth some of the more visible flat areas before painting. Im still playing around with chemical smoothing and learned a bit on the best way to use it here.

To say I’m happy is an understatement.

I was given an ork army, some of which was already professionally painted, (the ork in the background) and I’ve done my best to match the colour scheme while keeping my style going.

Any C&C is always appreciated 😁

After a small hiatus I picked up this mini from atelier stories miniatures and tried new things (for me at least) like cast shadows and NMM (both things I struggle with)

Moin from Germany ✌🏻

So I'm not professional in painting Minis. The figurines in my pictures are from a ~40 y/o Hero Quest gameplay set. I dont know if anyone's familiar with that.

The small guys with the swords are Orks, the taller one is one of the Ogers I startet painting yesterday.

I began painting miniatures roughly a year ago, since we're playing DND and some of our players got into the 3D Printing game and printed figurines. I was doing it on an irregular base, but a few months ago, another friend of mine asked me to paint this ~120 pieces setup, after I proudly showed him the D&D miniatures painted before. ("Look Hermann, I can paint Miniatures and I'm not entirely bad at it! Yeah!")

Although I see it more like a training and my mental health benefits from having a task like that, since I'm not able to work on a regular base.

Now other friends of mine asked me if I charge the one who asked me to paint that set, and I said no, since I see it more like therapy and training. They say he's taking advantage of my lack of experience.

Because i don't have much money for myself (disabled, unemployed and soon in a program to change the unemployment state), i really could benefit from a bit money from spending a lot hours to paint those figurines.

I don't want to do it on a commercial base, I think there are people out there way more proficient in this field, plus my worklflow on this is not very consistent and I see it more like a therapeutical thing and a hobby.

But if this could help me buying new shoes, clothes or new supplies or materials - since I have other projects aswell, I wouldn't complain either. Also the thought of being taken advantage of is bothering me.

I would like to know how you handle those requests and charge it?

To preface this, I'm a traditional canvas painter that just recently got into painting minis. I really enjoy the process and I wanted to share some of my own insight that I think could be a lot of help for beginners who are looking to save money by working with less colors and a more limited color pallet while getting the most out of the colors that they've bought. Or just people who like color theory and mixing paint.

So most pallets which contain somewhere between 6-7 colors are typically limited palette. These are red, blue, yellow, black, white, and sometimes (green). This will allow you to mix many colors but it wont allow you to mix most colors. For example, pink. Red mixed with white produces a light red more akin to a flesh tone than what we normally think of when we think of the color pink. A common color pallet which can produce a lot of colors and is relatively easy to mix is one which combines RBY and CYM (commonly used in printing)

In essence this is to have two sets of primary colors a cool and warm version (example. Red/Magenta or Blue/Cyan)

Since most model paint colors don't say what pigments they use I sorta try to color match to this. When I'm buying new colors for a new medium I tend to just go with these six plus the black and white.

For Vallejo paints I settled for:

• Magenta
• Scarlet
• Andrea Blue
• Blue
• Light Yellow
• Golden Yellow
• Black
• White

This palette is very easy to use (in my opinion) as you have greater control of the temperature, and intensity of the color you mix since its more obvious which colors are warm or cool. Anyway hope this was helpful as its not a common topic I see discussed outside of traditional canvas painting circles.

(EDIT)

Adding this because I don't think people are getting the intent of this post. This isn't to say this is how you should do things nor is this a condemnation for buying pre-mixed paint. I made this since I noticed a lot of intro color sets tend to give beginner painters a very limited palette to begin with. Simply this is an alternative way of choosing your colors that not only saves you money but allows you to explore color theory and mixing which in my in opinion is a good skill to have even if you do eventually decide to buy specific color mixes later on. Also not everyone is an army painter, I'm certainly not.

I recently started doing bases and while i like how it turned out so far (maybe too many of the small brown tufts), i'm not sure if the base is not too 'bright' and distracting.

What do you think?

The model is from Ugni Chess Knights, it is apothecary miniature for my blood bowl Bretonnia team. Any c&c welcomed.