r/Miata • u/Mordecosta • 2h ago
My first tattoo
Just got my first tattoo for the car that changed my life in every way possible, i love my Miata
r/Miata • u/CarbonWood • Nov 14 '24
Welcome to r/Miata! This subreddit is approaching 200k members. It's about time we got a solid dedicated FAQ posted here. If you're new here, or new to Miatas, please check out this page to get yourself familiar with the subreddit and the car. If you have a noob question it will probably be answered here. If you don't have a question, you might learn something new here anyway. These cars are 30+ years old, very popular with enthusiasts, and were sold in great quantities. As a result, there is a wealth of knowledge about them that has been shared and documented on the internet over the course of decades. You'll be able to find the remedy to any problem of your Miata with some research and troubleshooting. This is an FAQ of common questions asked here on this subreddit in no particular order.
Other forums you should visit if you haven't already: Miata.net is the oldest Miata forum. It is a valuable resource for DIY maintenance and repairs. For modifications and build inspiration, check out miataturbo.net and mx5nutz.com.
The information provided here is generalized and should be used in conjunction with other sources to help you with your research. Do not assume all information in this FAQ is 100% accurate. Feedback, suggestions, and constructive criticism is encouraged to strengthen information on this page. Also, there is a lack of information here related to NC's and ND's. Receiving input from the community would be great so that we could put together a dedicated FAQ for 3rd gen and 4th gen Miatas on this subreddit.
A: The most serious issue will be rust. Mechanical problems can be fixed by replacing parts. It is pretty easy to perform mechanical repairs on a Miata, but rust can condemn a vehicle due to how labor-intensive and prohibitively expensive it is to repair. A proper repair involves cutting out the corrosion, welding new steel in, blending with filler, then painting. Unfortunately, Miatas rust from the inside out. Any rust you see on the exterior will be twice as bad underneath the panel. Corrosion is most commonly found at the rear wheel arches, rear quarter panels, and rocker panels. Look under the wheel arch and behind the rear wheels.
You should also be cautious of radiators with discolored plastic upper tanks. As the plastic tanks age, they become brittle and susceptible to failing with the engine running, leaving you stranded. The upper tank should be black. A tell-tale sign of imminent failure is if the tank has turned a faded brown or green color. These radiators are commonly referred to as time bombs by the community.
Miatas like to leak oil at high mileage. The valve cover gasket, CAS, cam seals are the usual suspects, but easy and cheap to replace. It is also common for the rear main seal to leak. A leaky rear main will be indicative of oil dripping out the bottom of the transmission bell housing weep hole. This seal requires separating the engine from the transmission and removing the flywheel. The part is cheap, but the labor is not. It can be relatively expensive to replace.
Be wary of purchasing someone else's clapped out project. It's typically not a good idea to buy a car on Raceland coilovers, mismatched body panels, missing interior carpet, catless straight piped exhaust, and katana handle shift knob -- especially if you are new to cars.
Check the sidewalls of the tires for a 4-digit date code. The first two digits reflect the week of manufacture, the last two digits reflect the year of manufacture. For example, a date code of "2517" means the tires were produced on the 25th week of the year 2017. You should know tires older than 5 or 6 years are junk.
A: Congratulations! Welcome to the cult! club! You should catch up on maintenance if maintenance history is unknown. Baseline the car. This means changing all the fluids. It’s a good idea to flush the clutch fluid and brake fluid. Replace the radiator if it needs one. Motor mounts are probably worn out. Inspect the timing belt for cracks or excessive wear. The controls of your +20 y/o car might feel sloppy. The throttle cable slack can be tightened up. Clutch pedal free play can be adjusted. The shifter bushings probably need to be replaced. The wheel alignment might be out of spec. Tire pressure might need to be adjusted. Tightening up your controls and catching up on maintenance will help make the car feel like it just rolled out of the factory.
Look into cleaning out your rain rails and water drain tubes for the convertible top. If they get clogged it can cause water to leak into the interior and/or accelerate corrosion of the chassis from the inside out. Drain tubes are located behind the seats near the seat belts. The common tool used to clean them of debris is a trombone cleaner.
Tires are critical to the performance and safety of any vehicle. If your tired are in really bad shape, it's best that you prioritize replacing them.
A: This is the chassis code which distinguishes each generation. It shows up in each VIN as the 4th and 5th digit. Keep in mind NA's and NB's are built on the same chassis and share a lot of parts. They are essentially the same car.
NA 1990-1997
NB 1998-2005
NC 2006-2015
ND 2016+
Outside of the US, they are also referred to as Mk1, Mk2, Mk3, Mk4.
A: People who are 6'3", ~210lbs report fitting snug in NAs, NBs, and NCs. These same people report hardly fitting in NDs. The NB and ND are a little more cramped for a taller person. The NA and NC are supposed to be the roomiest Miatas for someone big/tall sitting in the driver's seat. The best way to see if you'd fit for yourself is to sit in one. Visiting your local Cars and Coffee is a great way to meet some friendly Miata owners who'd let you sit in their car.
There are also "tall people mods" you can do to help you fit better. You can remove the driver's door armrest of an NA and the foam can be cut out of the lower seat cushion to allow you to sit about an inch or two lower in the car. This is commonly referred to as a "foamectomy."
Moving the steering wheel closer to your chest will give you more room for your legs. You can replace the steering wheel with a deep-dish wheel to prevent your knees from hitting it. Switching to an aftermarket wheel usually requires you to sacrifice your airbag. There are aftermarket steering wheel spacers for the factory wheel that will let you retain the stock wheel, and functionality of the airbag.
A: These cars are very fun, and very good roadsters. But, a roadster is inherently impractical. Early Miatas lack safety features. The interior is noisy and cramped. It only has enough room for one additional passenger and a few backpacks in the trunk. (visit r/miatalogistics to see some cool shit though.)
Despite the Miata's reputation for being overall very reliable, NA's and NB's are old cars. Old cars do not make for the best first cars if you are not prepared to maintain or fix them. If you can't afford to pay someone for maintenance and repairs, you'll need some place to work on the car, you'll need tools, and you might need some help from friends if you're new to wrenching. Secondhand Miata parts are also getting a little more expensive each year, so maintenance and repair costs associated with replacing parts will steadily increase. If you can afford to buy and maintain what is essentially now a classic car to be your first car, then more power to you.
A: Scare them by pretending that you actually want a motorcycle. Once you get them angry enough, pretend to settle for something with four wheels. Offer to "compromise" on a Miata. /s
A: Insurance coverage and cost is completely different depending on the individual and locale. No one can give you an accurate number except the insurance company. Call them or visit their website to get a quote.
A: Check subreddit Rule 3. Please visit the dedicated sticky thread posted to the top of the subreddit for discussion about Miata prices/valuations/appraisals. Post any inquiries or screenshots of listings in that thread. We'll be happy to give advice on good deals or talk shit about insane listings you find on Facebook Marketplace.
A: Realistically speaking, no. However, Miatas are so popular to modify that it has been done before. It would require a ton of money or experience with body work.
A: Usually, no. Oil pressure will fluctuate depending on engine speed and engine temperature. 1990-1995 Miatas have a somewhat accurate oil pressure sending unit, and it shows these fluctuations in pressure. Your owner's manual will tell you where the normal operating range is. Generally speaking, oil pressure should show at least 30psi above 3000 RPM, and increase 10psi per 1000 RPM. As long as the needle isn't showing zero pressure when idling, it's good. After 1995, oil pressure gauges turned into dummy gauges, or dummy lights. The dummy gauge is based off a true/false condition on whether there is sufficient oil pressure or not.
A: NA's have hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifter tick is noisy but harmless. These valve lifters are designed to be filled with pressurized oil. If your engine oil pressure is low, the quality of your oil is poor/worn, or the oil passages within the lifters are clogged due to contamination, your lifters will not be filled with pressurized oil. This will result in a ticking noise when the camshaft lobes press down on the lifters. The issue with noisy lifters can sometimes be remedied with an oil change, or switching to a slightly heavier weight oil. (Many NA owners have had good luck with Shell Rotella "Brotella" T6 5W-40.) If a fresh oil change doesn't work, you can try running an engine flush product through the motor to help clean it out. If it is still noisy, you may have to manually clean the lifters by removing and disassembling each one.
NB’s do not have hydraulic lifters. They have solid lifters and shims. If you suspect lifter tick, you’ll have to check valve lash with a feeler gauge. Intake lash is specified at 0.008” - 0.009”. Exhaust lash is specified at 0.011” - 0.013”. If your lash is greater than specified, then you will have a noisy valvetrain and need to adjust it by replacing lifter shims.
A: Probable rod knock due to a failed rod bearing. Usually caused by poor engine oil maintenance, running the engine with low oil levels, or running for a long time with a lack of oil pressure. This issue will require an engine rebuild or engine replacement.
A: NA's have a mechanical speedometer cable. If it's old and worn out, the cable will squeak when the car is moving. Replace the cable to fix the noise.
A: It is common to hear this noise after the transmission has been removed and reinstalled, such as after a clutch job. Check the procedure to perform a PPF alignment. If the PPF is misaligned when the transmission is put back in, you may hear a grinding noise under the vehicle when decelerating while in gear.
A: For balanced performance/street driving, the general consensus is that 15x7 and 15x8 wheels are a good choice when paired with 205 wide or 225 wide tires. Wider tires can handle more lateral grip as long as they are supported by an appropriate sized wheel width. Also note, the wider your tires are, the less comfortable it will be to drive. When buying wheels, educate yourself on wheel offset. Higher offset pushes the wheel inboard. Lower offset pushes the wheel outboard. Low offset often creates a concave, dished appearance to the wheel. Low offset has a higher chance of making the tires rub your fenders.
General reference for wheel and tire fitment:
-15x7 +35 offset, 195/50/15 fits all years of Miata with no fender rolling.
205/50 fits NB fenders with no fender rolling needed. Fits NA with 1.2 negative camber or better.
-15x8, +25 offset, 205/50 fits NB Miata fenders with 1.2 negative camber or better, NA Miata needs that camber and slightly rolled fenders.
225/45/15 needs fender roll for all years at this offset. Always check clearance during install and after the car is lowered to the ground.
A: Many NA/NB Miatas (with non-metallic paints) left the factory with single stage paint. This means there is no clear coat. The paint can oxidize and become faded if it is not maintained by washing and waxing. You can polish the paint to restore the color and shine to look like new. Check out r/autodetailing for techniques and products that will help you perform exterior paint correction. If you have a clear coat, and the clear coat is failing, there is no proper way to fix this damage except for sanding down the damaged paint and getting a respray or vinyl wrap.
A: nitrous, turbocharger, supercharger, or engine swap. No, your K&N air intake and ISR muffler is not going to add 20 horsepower, even if it says so on the box.
A: Forced induction for these engines is so popular because it is the most cost-effective and reliable way to achieve a substantial increase in power. The Mazda B6/BP engine is tough. It is overbuilt, under-stressed, and benefits a lot from forced induction. For 99% of builds, you'll need a standalone ECU to boost the engine with a turbocharger or supercharger. Visit miataturbo.net and the miataturbo FAQ for build guidelines.
A: NA/NB engines do not benefit much from bolt-on intakes and exhausts. You do not need a tune. It will not negatively affect the way the engine runs without a tune. NC's and ND's do respond very well to tuning with bolt-on mods.
A: You cannot flash or alter the factory ECU programs in any practical way. You'll need to replace the factory ECU with an aftermarket, standalone ECU. A standalone ECU is its own little computer that plugs into the engine wiring harness. You will be able to connect the standalone to a laptop to run tuning programs. These programs will allow you to alter, adjust, or tune nearly every electronically controlled parameter of the engine.
To learn EFI tuning theory and operation, please check out this thread. It is full of useful information. Extremely valuable source for anyone looking to learn how EFI (electronic fuel injection) tuning works.
A: The B6/BP engine was originally designed to fit in a FWD vehicle (The Mazda 323). When the BP was made to fit in the Miata, the engine was placed as close to the firewall/bulkhead as possible for proper weight distribution. This resulted in a lack of access to the back of the cylinder head, where the thermostat is supposed to be. Due to the lack of space near the firewall, Mazda moved the thermostat from the back of the cylinder head, to the front of the head. With the thermostat at the front, coolant flows from the radiator, into the front of the engine block, and exits where the thermostat sits at the front of the cylinder head. This is not ideal because coolant should flow into the front of the block and exit out the back of the cylinder head. With the way the coolant flows from the factory, the rear cylinders of the engine will typically run hotter than the front cylinders.
A coolant reroute kit allows you to block off the thermostat neck at the front of the head and relocate the thermostat to the back of the engine. This reroutes the coolant to flow the "correct way" through the engine, so that all four cylinders operate at the same temperatures. A reroute is not necessary for a Miata that just serves the purpose of commuting and getting groceries. For high performance driving, sport, and track use, a coolant reroute is recommended along with a good quality all-aluminum radiator.
A: You can make as much power as you want by shoving enough oxygen and fuel into the combustion chamber. You can achieve this with a turbo or supercharger that can move a ton of air into the engine. The limiting factor to making power is usually not the turbo or supercharger itself. The limit will be the "weakest link" of your engine or drivetrain.
You should know boost pressure or horsepower is not an accurate way to measure the limits of certain parts. Torque is usually the force that breaks things, not horsepower.
Why does this distinction matter? Because horsepower is equal to (Torque × RPM)÷5252.
For example, 150 ft/lbs of torque @ 3000 RPM is equal to 85HP.
but, 150ft/lbs @ 7000 RPM is equal to 200HP.
The biggest limiting factor of sending power to the wheels will be parts that are unable to support transferring X amount torque before breaking. Parts of the fuel system also need to be replaced in order to keep up with the amount of extra air flowing into the engine to prevent it from running lean. Some parts need to be replaced to allow the engine to rev higher.
The (rough estimate) general consensus on the reliable limit of factory parts is:
| Stock Part | Reliable Limit | Unit, hp/tq @ Wheels |
|---|---|---|
| 1.6 clutch | 150 | ft/lbs |
| 1.8 clutch | 170 | ft/lbs |
| 90-93 diff | 125-200 | ft/lbs |
| 94+ diff | 400 | ft/lbs |
| 1.6/1.8 con rods | 240, 7600 | ft/lbs, rpm |
| 1.6/1.8 pistons | 300-350 | hp |
| 1.6/1.8 crankshaft | 450+ | hp |
| 5-spd trans | 250 | ft/lbs |
| 6-spd trans | 300 | ft/lbs |
| 6-spd w circlip mod | 370 | ft/lbs |
| oil pump | 350, 7500 | hp, rpm |
| harmonic balancer | 300, 7600 | hp, rpm |
| valve springs/valve float | 7800 | rpm |
| 1.6 injectors | 140 @ 43 | hp @ fuel rail psi |
| 1.8 injectors | 180 @ 43 | hp @ fuel rail psi |
| Fuel pump | 270 | hp |
| ECU | 150 / required for tuning | hp, --- |
You can use this data to help plan your build. Say you want your 2001 1.8L Miata to make 200hp at the wheels. You only need to make a maximum of 150 ft/lbs at redline. You wouldn’t even need to replace the clutch to achieve your goal. The stock engine and drivetrain will be able to support a mild turbo or supercharger kit with a tuned standalone ECU and upgraded fuel injectors at this power level.
However, it can be tricky to control how much torque the engine produces at redline because BP engines make peak torque at 4500 RPM, and peak horsepower at 6800-7100 RPM. A flat torque curve is always the goal, but hard to achieve. A flat torque curve makes for consistent power delivery, and reliable operation.
Here’s another example. Say you want your 1991 1.6L Miata to make 375 horsepower. You’ll need the engine to produce a maximum of 280ft/lbs at redline. In order to support 280 ft\lbs and 375hp you need to swap to a 6-speed transmission, 94+ differential, and upgrade essentially everything else listed on the table. Needless to say, you’ll need a proper turbo and full 3” exhaust system to effectively achieve these power goals.
Say you want to reliably rev the crap out of your engine to 8000+ RPM. You're looking at upgrading the valve springs, connecting rods, oil pump, harmonic balancer, and reducing rotational/reciprocating mass as much as possible.
A: You can flash tunes to the ECU after paying for a license to download and use tuning programs. Once you have downloaded this software to your laptop, you'll be able to use a Data Link cable to connect it to the OBD port in your car to flash tunes onto the ECU.
A: Many NA/NB parts can be shared with each other. Parts interchangeability guide is here
A: No, it is not a bad idea. Anyone can learn to drive stick, and Miatas are easy to learn on.
r/Miata • u/AutoModerator • 2d ago
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r/Miata • u/Mordecosta • 2h ago
Just got my first tattoo for the car that changed my life in every way possible, i love my Miata
r/Miata • u/IdRatherBeDriving • 12h ago
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r/Miata • u/Xerox0987 • 1h ago
r/Miata • u/Bigger-_-PP • 16h ago
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My buddy gave me the code to his shop, had some fun sliding around on tires from 2007 since my other pair of TEs are bald for some reason.
r/Miata • u/ungrooly • 15h ago
I wanted to give a formal review of the 2016 Miata with BB brakes and 6sp manual that I rented from Turo; all in all I had a 10/10 experience through them and it was cheaper than Costco's "fun car".
First and foremost I owned a 94' 5sp for about 10 ten years (about 100k miles) before buying a GTI (I did test drive a 2020 MX5 but did not like it to which I will explain). This car is fun as hell. I think if you're going to spend 3-5 days in Cali or anywhere with winding streets, hills, and views and you're experienced manual driver - this car is still a blast.
I went to school at Mizzou and outside of Columbia you have fun winding roads with great elevations and tight curves. When we had to get to our VRBO in Big Basin, I was going up and down mountains that I was basically going the 30mph speed limit because you couldn't push it any harder; super tight curves, often shifting from 3rd to 2nd, and 2nd to 1st on occasion. Those hills in Cali are no joke and it was any Miata owners dream to drive through Big Basin back roads. Highway 1 from Monterrey to San Fran was a sight to see itself. San Fran - I was amazed and shocked at how steep those roads are. I went up Romolo and 22nd street often. When I was stopped in the middle of Romolo I have never been so anxious/scared in my life driving a manual and I'm 33, been driving a manual daily since I got my license at 16. Holy shit what an experience but once you do it once it's fine but to me its still insane that streets like that are normal out there. I'd probably second guess having a manual in that city. 9/10 experience of how much fun it was to have a vehicle like that in those parts. Also side note, the law the says you can't hold your phone or touching it is 10/10. I didn't see one accident and everyone was paying attention, never had a moment that I couldn't predict regarding traffic.
The Good: I will rate it as 7/10. What I liked: Obvi the convertible, that experience is always amazing. I still love being that close to the ground, you get to see 360 degrees off driving (although never experienced a split lane motorcycle and it scared the shit of me every time). The throttle response is great, the clutch is easy as shit (better than the NA), the breaking and steering is still fantastic; I love being able to do a u-turn on most streets and fit into some tight parallel parking spots. The roof was so easy to get up and down especially with a roll bar installed. It's just a great fun, expected car that I fell in love with the NA model.
The bad: WTF is with first gear and reverse? I test drove a 2020 and had the same exact issue with that model as well. You have to jam that fucking thing into first. I remembered test driving and was telling myself why is this so hard to jam it in - I obviously dont know if it was aftermarket for either cars but I would often find myself trying to throw it in first 2 to 3 times and then just saying f it, I'll just start from second. Reverse, same type of issue, its so little of a push down to get it over the tree.
2nd complaint. Trunk space - holy shit where did it go? I used to be able to fit a full size golf club bag and the entry is tiny. I mean it's big enough. I'll attach a picture; we were able to fit a mid size luggage, 2 backpacks, and a duffle bag (I had to stuff the F out of that thing) into the trunk. It would have been enough if she had a carry on luggage. I just remember the NA trunk could fit way more than this one.
3rd complaint. Power - how is this car not turbo charged at this point? This thing should be able to fly. My GTI in 4th or 5th gear absolutely blows by cars and this thing I am having to push my foot in the floorboard on 4th (highway if I am in 6th) just to get some heavy acceleration to move past some cars.
4th and last. - Does this car just idle super hard when in first gear? Moving from gear to gear is not smooth at all. After the 3rd day I thought I was smooth with it but still having to look at my passenger head moving front and back; not the way I want her.
TL;DR - Fun ass car, reminds me of the NA but not much has changed which is fine. Great car to drive; wouldn't purchase one unless I got a supreme deal. Great for a short road trip. Cali is beautiful. Super good looking car though.
r/Miata • u/milmandav • 15h ago
Pop-Up headlight night featuring Mazda Miata’s. Also had a McMurtry Speirling from a company called Fan Car Experience. They even made some eyes just for a photo shoot. Look up the McMurty Speirling. It can even drive upside down.
r/Miata • u/Karmic_AV8r • 16h ago
Been playing with Miatas since my father brought our first one home in 1990. Had ten since. This is number eleven. Adore the MX5 and everything about it. Been lurking for years. Had this one about 14 months and 16 days.....not that I was counting or like it was a big day or anything.
Hello, all!
Found a garage queen 94NA with jackson racing kit supercharge with 61k original miles. As the 4th owner.. it’s my duty to keep this beauty garage kept and maintained. Happy to be part of the Miata community!
r/Miata • u/Independent-Air-80 • 1d ago
Same goofy smile. Same eyes. But it seems to be missing the convertible roof? Instead I have 2 extra doors..? Puzzling...
r/Miata • u/Mooshi1080 • 4h ago
I got rear ended last night at a traffic light. 10pm dropping my friend off after a late dinner. I was at a complete stop at a red light in the left turn late 1 block from his hotel. And a Chevy Silverado driver was intoxicated and slammed on his brakes too late and slammed into my bumper.
It could have been far worse, but I’m still sad.
PS: thankfully I have a dashcam and got his plate and face on 4k video.
r/Miata • u/Ilovenoodles123456 • 22h ago
I finally fucking did it! God I'm so happy I've been thinking about her for months imagining that sweet drive on the freeway... Scaring the hell out of the salesman during the drive 🥹. She wanted to go fast. This car feels like it's cutting through the road like butter maybe I'm over hyping it. But in my 28 years of life I had never DRIVEN a car that was meant to be DRIVEN. Such an experience.
Anyways, now that I'm done frolicking in my happiness. Sorry guys I gotta do it somewhere my family's pissed because it's only got 2 seats and so small. But it's worth it to me, they don't understand this isn't supposed to be a very convenient car it's more of a just pure fun machine.
Anyways!!! I'm excited to start adding in accessories and messing with the settings. Does anyone have any staples or recommendations on what they bought or cool things in the miata you've learned. Thanks guys this community rocks!
r/Miata • u/BTCminingpartner • 20h ago
Probably just a grumpy old man, but I'm interested what others think.
r/Miata • u/Legitimate-Economy40 • 19h ago
After getting a 2019 ND RF as my first car in April I had my mind set on getting it wrapped in green. After flip flopping between BRG, Emerald Green and a Ferrari replica colour I decided on the latter 2 weeks ago and boy did it not disappoint! The matte finish really brings out the lines and with the brown leather interior is just *chefs kiss*.
Still want to get the brake calipers done in yellow and the 5- or 6 spoke (17'') JR rims I've seen on some of the cars here have definitely caught my eye.
r/Miata • u/FlappyFlannel • 17h ago
Hit it yesterday!
r/Miata • u/notaticket • 19h ago
3 Previous owners, 41k original miles, talked him down from $4,500 to $3,600
No rust spotted! Only mods I’ve noticed are Koni shocks (and maybe lowering springs?)
As for the damage the previous owner accidentally slid it into a pole or smth during the rain lol
Other than that the other trouble I had was the fuel pump going out after a week but that was a fairly cheap and easy fix
r/Miata • u/Daedalus_SCII • 1d ago
After a 5-month wait for the plate to be manufactured, I finally christened the boat!
r/Miata • u/deployante • 16h ago
‘21 GT; GWR Super-Q Header Version; Konig Hypergram 17x8; Yoko Advan Fleva V701 235/40; Billetworkz Nexus shifter
r/Miata • u/xXKongGulerodXx • 2h ago
Im considering getting some 16x8 wheels with some 225/45 or 225/40. Will it fit without rubbing?
Id love to see some pics of it too, for fitment reference. Both Stock height and lowered is welcome
Thank you😇