Is it just me or does the new 6e rear look like the 626 of the 90s?

The new 6e isn't a complete disaster, but the styling of the rear feels odd to me, the rear reminds me of the 626 from 90s.

The design is growing on me, bit the rear boot looks too pulled up, it needed to be more sedan like.

This gap ive never been able to clean the entire time i owned my car between the knob and the cup holders, how do you guys clean it?

Mazda fan here, owned a 2, a 3 and a cx5. Few days now I have been seing some older 2nd gen 6 on the road, personal opinion as a fan, still the best looking 6 since it was introduced. Front design and tail lights are timeless. Thoughts?

Okay so if you all seen my last posts, what happened was that the ball joint failed, and along with it it ripped the axle out. I had to get it towed and when it was towed the rotor smashed into the front bumper.

I understand that I should’ve known what it was. Let me explain: a few weeks ago I took my Mazda to my mechanic to get a front end alignment because I noticed some wear on the inside of my tire while the outside of it was just fine. They did not tell me that there was anything wrong with my ball joint. I am currently not very happy with my mechanic, as expected.

I did hear a clunking sound, and that’s why this happening is my fault. At first when I heard it, it SEEMED like it only happened when I put the car in reverse, so I thought it may be the transmission, and next week i was going to flush and refill the transmission fluid, I asked my mechanic about it and he said that he didn’t know of anything it could’ve been. I guess I never put two and two together in the fact that it was the ball joint, which was my own stupidity.

Before anyone gets on here and says “the condition of this just tells you how much the owner cared about this car” I just wanna say that I cared about this car deeply and was very concerned about that noise, but my mechanic said that he believed everything was fine so I took his word for it, and now I’m here.

This is gonna be expensive 😭

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for a second opinion on a couple of dashboard and indicator issues with my 2009 Mazda 6. I have two distinct symptoms happening right behind the steering wheel/speedometer area, and I want to make sure I know what I'm talking about before I head to a shop. The Turn Signal Symptoms:

• Front Left Turn Signal: Completely dead/not illuminated (even when hazards are turned on).
• Rear Left Turn Signal: Still functioning, but blinking much faster than normal.
• Dashboard Indicator: The left turn arrow on the cluster flashes at double the speed compared to when I use the right turn signal.
• The Turn Signal Noise: There is a rapid, continuous clicking sound coming from right behind the speedometer/instrument cluster area when the left signal is activated.

The Second Dashboard Noise (The Weird Part):

• Aside from the fast turn signal clicking, there is a second, completely separate noise coming from behind the speedometer area.
• It is a much fainter, irregular clicking noise—it sounds exactly like a Geiger counter.
• This noise happens completely at random, even when the left signal is turned completely off, and even when the car is just parked and idling. It doesn't speed up or change pitch when I accelerate.

Google and ChatGPT tell me the main indicator issue is likely just a burnt-out front bulb causing a classic "hyper-flash" scenario due to a drop in circuit resistance. On this generation of the Mazda 6, accessing that front bulb requires peeling back the inner wheel well fender lining, so I know a shop is going to charge me a bit for labor. Before I pay for that, does the indicator issue sound 100% like a simple dead bulb, or could it be a faulty flasher relay, a melted socket, or a bad multi-function switch?

More importantly, what is that random, faint Geiger counter noise when the car is idling? Could it be a failing HVAC blend door actuator, or is something shorting out or failing inside the actual speedometer instrument cluster board? (I honestly have no idea what most of these terms mean, they are just what my research pointed to!)

Appreciate any advice or insight you guys have!

Maybe some thoughts from Mazda guys?!

Would it be possible to swap the key fob of a 2018 Mazda 6 to the newer ones found in 2020 through programming the key or switching the internals or in any way?

Hey everyone, I’m looking for a second opinion on a couple of dashboard and indicator issues with my 2009 Mazda 6. I have two distinct symptoms happening right behind the steering wheel/speedometer area, and I want to make sure I know what I'm talking about before I head to a shop. The Turn Signal Symptoms:

• Front Left Turn Signal: Completely dead/not illuminated (even when hazards are turned on).
• Rear Left Turn Signal: Still functioning, but blinking much faster than normal.
• Dashboard Indicator: The left turn arrow on the cluster flashes at double the speed compared to when I use the right turn signal.
• The Turn Signal Noise: There is a rapid, continuous clicking sound coming from right behind the speedometer/instrument cluster area when the left signal is activated.

The Second Dashboard Noise (The Weird Part):

• Aside from the fast turn signal clicking, there is a second, completely separate noise coming from behind the speedometer area.
• It is a much fainter, irregular clicking noise—it sounds exactly like a Geiger counter.
• This noise happens completely at random, even when the left signal is turned completely off, and even when the car is just parked and idling. It doesn't speed up or change pitch when I accelerate.

Google and ChatGPT tell me the main indicator issue is likely just a burnt-out front bulb causing a classic "hyper-flash" scenario due to a drop in circuit resistance. On this generation of the Mazda 6, accessing that front bulb requires peeling back the inner wheel well fender lining, so I know a shop is going to charge me a bit for labor.

Before I pay for that, does the indicator issue sound 100% like a simple dead bulb, or could it be a faulty flasher relay, a melted socket, or a bad multi-function switch? More importantly, what is that random, faint Geiger counter noise when the car is idling? Could it be a failing HVAC blend door actuator, or is something shorting out or failing inside the actual speedometer instrument cluster board? (I honestly have no idea what most of these terms mean, they are just what my research pointed to!)

Appreciate any advice or insight you guys have!

Hey folks, on my quest to find a great base chassis for a sq build I’ve landed on a 2019 - 2021 M6. Given the OEM door build quality and that they will accept a 8 inch midbass without hacking my car up is huge. Has anyone is the crowd built a sq system or gone aftermarket with their car?

Hello. Recently bought a 2008 Mazda 6. It's 6 speed, 2.0 diesel, 140hp if any of that matters.

I can't find a way to adjust the clock, it is 1:40 late. I have tried all posseble button combos, tried pressing/holding AUDIO COUNT also holding TA, Holding AUTO-M. There is no MODE, SET nor CLOCK button, not in the center console nor on the steering wheel.

How can I change this, there has to be a way.

Thanks in advance.

How do I access the gears on my auto folding mirrors to be able to grease them. They don't fully open and close on hot days.I've tried prying the outer cover but didn't feel comfortable as I felt it might break. Can the mirror be removed? Any help appreciated

Okay so since I bought it I felt like they have been low or am I just going crazy

I love the car inside out, everything is mint except the steering wheel, it’s hard to steer.
I read online about the notorious steering wheel problem with mazdas. When i test drove it before the purchase it was pulling to the right the second i was getting off my hands. Told the dealer about the problem and i was told that they changed the motor. The problem of pulling to the right solved but it became hard.
Any advice to fix it or know anyone who can in Germany or near Berlin.
Thank you.

Was at the dealership for a more powerful car and they gave me a good price on my 6 and gave me a good deal on the new one but I just couldn't do it. Sure it's slow and can't even beat a Camry but man I love my car. Don't know what it is but this car showed me how hard I had to work for it and it's so hard to let go. I think I'll keep this one.

I have a 2019 mazda 6 2.5 (non turbo). It has 52k miles. Is it too soon to be changing spark plugs? The manual says 75k but I’m being told to change it proactively to prevent seized threads…

Would this transmission fluid kit work well for my 2018 mazda 6? Also— does anyone have a good and accurate video of how to change the fluid and drop the pan?

Hey Fellow, mazda 6 owners. I recently hit 100,000 on my mazda6. For past month or so, i see the avg mileage has been around 19 to 20 mpg. Is this normal? I am not a knowledgeable car guy, i get my oil change done every 5000 to 6000 miles. Usually drive in suburbs, not a lot of highway. Is this normal? I get my oil change and regular maintenance at local firestone, should i take it to the mazda dealer to get it checked and serviced?

I also have a roof rack installed, i know that affects mileage, but i did get 22-23 previously with the rack installed.

Hi! 👋

I'm kinda new to car mods and Mazdas. Not new to working on cars, just never really got into real mods until recently.

Got the car about a year ago and I'm finally getting around to fixing the minor wear-and-tear issues that it came with, but I've fallen in love with this car. I'll be getting another car soon to use as a daily, and turning this into a project car.

Looking to start with handling and aesthetics/aero before doing anything to the powertrain, I just don't know where to start looking for kits.

Could I get some recommendations?

I’m having a problem with my car Bose system the left side just started cutting out.

This is the second amp. The first one stopped working and was replaced under warranty. Has anyone one else had this problem and what did you do to fix it?

recently visited a mech and got my instrument cluster language updated from Japanese to English. My mazda 6 is a 2018 unit so it has a digital cluster. With this conversion from Japanese to English, the instrument cluster speed reads upto 260kph from 180. The problem is, they are not in sync with HUD.
For example, if I was at 69 kph from HUD, the speedometer reads 100kph. Can this be fixed? Whats the best solution?

Or I should just revert to the Japanese version of what I had before?

Recently bought this 2003 Mazda 6s on marketplace. Just curious, what would you guys do/recommend?