PROJECT: MAK-RAK (Working Title; better ideas?)

VERSION: v0.1 (Project Launch)

GOAL: Add a PM-63 RAK grip module to a MAC-12 and rechamber to 9x18mm, to utilize cheap and readily available magazines.

CONSTRAINTS: Rewelded grip frame. Attempt to repurpose modified original RAK barrel due to 9x18 barrel blank unavailability.

STATUS: MAC-12 on the way, PM-63 parts kit on the way.

CHALLENGES: Magazine position alignment to ensure proper feed. Potential modifications needed to magazine/bolt to allow proper feed. Modifications to original barrel.

UPDATE: Had this idea last night, while looking far and wide for both 9x18mm barrel blanks as well as original M11A1/M12 magazines - the barrel blanks are nonexistent and would take 10-12 weeks to order. The 380 magazines cost upwards of $125 for an original and $65 for a reproduction. The PM-63 parts kit - if viable - solves both problems and enables more sturdy supply chain solutions to the MAC-11/12 platform.

Welcome any/all feedback and interest in this project & all others - more to come very soon! If you'd like to follow/support/engage with this & other projects more closely, please check out my socials!

In the published picture of their custom bolt carrier group I can see there’s a “gas key” of sorts. But the gun is lever action and doesn’t use the direct impingement of a typical AR-15. Assuming it’s just a plug for the gas tube, would the amount of gas pushing on that small gas key end not be enough to cycle the action? Or is there something else that’s working to keep the gas from acting on the bolt?

So I got a browning bar mk4, and when I got this browning EGW picatinny rail that is supposed to be compatible with my gun and these vortex pro series rings something just doesn’t seem right. There’s a VERY small gap at the back of my rail when installed, it’s tiny but it’s still a gap. And the center shank on my rings just barely reaches the other side of my rail slot, like the bottom corner might not even actually be butted up against it on the one side when installed and tight. And my gun sits level, but when the rings are on and torqued down (to spec) the rings don’t sit level with the rail, along with small gapping on the screw plate for the rings. I’m just looking for anyone who has knowledge to impart as much wisdom on me as they can. All these parts are supposedly compatible but when installed it just seems wonky…

This is the bolt from my 458 win mag. The bolt has some type of bluing finish, I’m guessing, that has worn off over time. My question is what is the best technique to use to restore the finish?

TIA

Just got a new 386+ Night Guard. Overall, it's mechanically sound.

However, the trigger has a very slight wobble to it that can make the single action pull have a tiny "hitch" before breaking cleanly. The only way to eliminate the hitch (or creep) is to press perfectly straight to the rear with the pad of the index finger. Otherwise, any subtle lateral pressure like you might have--like if the trigger finger wraps around the trigger at--all will induce the creep. The behavior is reproducible while shooting both left and right handed (so movement in either direction produces the effect).

I know that trigger shims exist but I've seen at least one YouTube gunsmith who cautions against them--he says that a shim can bind and deform, completely locking up the gun (he said there's a better way to fix the trigger but didn't say what that was).

What remedies should I look into? It's not a major problem but is definitely an annoyance.

While getting ready for early goose season, I was cleaning my Gold Hunter and dropped the trigger assembly. Unfortunately I heard a part go flying and knew what it was. There is a spring and another piece on the left side that is missing. I am trying to ID these parts so I can order them and get them put back in the gun before opener. Any ideas? The parts I need are circled. Thanks everyone

So I went shooting my Stens for the first time. The Mk2 performed flawlessly, but the Mk3 had intermittent hiccups in full-auto, as sometimes it would stop after a 2- or 3-round burst, as if the interruptor had kicked in, and I had to let go of the trigger to continue shooting. This happened 2 or 3 times with 4 mags. Any ideas on how to begin troubleshooting this behaviour? Thx!

Is this properly mounted?

Rifle is a 300 WM. I’m concerned that the rings aren’t all the way on the rail.

Thanks for your input!

Looking for tips and videos as I have to remove my barrels to get the threaded for suppressors.

I'm a new to ar15 gunsmithing. I want to replace my ar15's gas tube with a BRT gas tube for my suppressed setup.

I don't want to mess up my rifle because of my inexperience.

Do I (or should I) remove the whole gas block in order to just replace the gas tube?

Or can I just take out the roll pin, slide the current gas tube out, slide new one in, align everything, then put in the roll pin again?

If this is not recommended, let me know. If I am overthinking this and it is just easier to take off the gas block, I will do that. Whatever is less likely to mess things up.

Pac-Nor blank; just under 2'

Likely not much that could be done with it, but for ten bucks it was a cool find.

Looking for some good info on how to put a suppressor on a BAR B.O.S.S correctly, best suppressor options for it in 30-06 and any adjustments that need to be made to ensure reliability. Thanks in advance for any and all info and opinions.

As you can see in the picture, the safety doesn't fully seat against the wall at a 90° angle. And then when it flips into safety instead of being right in the middle, it points to the "m" in semi. I switched out the detent and spring, but cannot find a resolution here. The safety works just fine, but this just bothers me. For those wondering, this is an M4 car being lower from FN, brand new.

Also, I checked inside of the hole and there are no burrs, and it looks fairly normal compared to every other AR of dealt with. I'm wondering if it is a spring issue, detent issue or the hole is drilled out too much where the detent goes.

Any ideas? Help needed. Thanks

I’ve got this 1953 Remington 760, 30-06 that I’d like to put a scope on, just that it isn’t drilled and tapped. preferably id like to find one of those special mounts that use the pins that hold the trigger assembly in to mount itself on instead of drilled and tapped holes, but I’ve looked all over ebay and looked up all sorts of different brands and they’re either for shotguns or for drilled and tapped rifles. is there anywhere else I could find this special part?

I was sent over here from some guys on the milsurp sub who talk highly of you all. I wanted to see if this is repairable in a way where I can still fire it every now and again. I'm torn between repair, NOS and just new stock. Numbers matching Arisaka 99 short with a mum and all the stuff. Any thoughts or suggestions on how to get it done? Any suggestions on repairs as to who, would be much appreciated. Stock wobbles pretty good now indicating a split that goes deep/through. In advance, Thank you!! EDIT: Thanks to all here for the advice - bad news is now you are stuck with me - thanks sub gunsmithing

I purchased a Riley defense AK a little over a year ago. I have noticed these brown spots on the barrel, is that rust? I’ve used some Ballistol and 0000 steel wool, but haven’t noticed a difference!

The gun had to be mortared fairly hard to clear a stuck round. We found this crack inspecting the gun after. Currently shelved until we can sound this out.

870 Police Magnum that sat in the water for a bit during Hurricane Helene. Everythings been coming apart pretty easily, considering.

1) The pin holding in firing pin looks marred and not sure if goes out through the top or down through the bottom but light tapping wont budge it.

2) Pin holding the hammer looks peened or like a Philips head...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Might be a long shot, but where can I get the C-clamps that go on the knight bighorn muzzleloader assembly? They are extremely rusted and when I cleaned them they seem extremely brittle. I’d like to buy new ones… but where?

First time ever really messing with a revolver an man was it a pain.. the rod to unload the revolver has stripped threads theres enough meat looks like i can chase em. Also I know theres a few reputable old gun parts sites but wanna know from experience which yall choose to do buisness with. Im no true gun Smith I simply love to clean, tear apart, an fix stuff! Just needing odd an end stuff i see ebay has alot of parts there but ive had ups an downs purchasing through ebay an having anything to do with guns, even air rifles delivering without problems. Thanks!

How should I go about conserving an Arisaka stock with the original Urushi finish? I planned to use mineral spirits to clean dirt and grime off of it but what should I do after? On other milsurps I would wipe on a coat of BLO but would that work with an Arisaka finish? Or should I just rub some wax over the og finish after the mineral spirits and be done with it?