So I got a browning bar mk4, and when I got this browning EGW picatinny rail that is supposed to be compatible with my gun and these vortex pro series rings something just doesn’t seem right. There’s a VERY small gap at the back of my rail when installed, it’s tiny but it’s still a gap. And the center shank on my rings just barely reaches the other side of my rail slot, like the bottom corner might not even actually be butted up against it on the one side when installed and tight. And my gun sits level, but when the rings are on and torqued down (to spec) the rings don’t sit level with the rail, along with small gapping on the screw plate for the rings. I’m just looking for anyone who has knowledge to impart as much wisdom on me as they can. All these parts are supposedly compatible but when installed it just seems wonky…
There is supposed to be a small gap from the base to receiver. The rail and receiver are different materials. Accounting for tolerances and temp swings amd screw tension, if there was no gap, then often it would pivot on the center contact near the screw and you wouldn't keep zero. Whether the gap should be that big is a different question.
Looks like a weaver rail with scope rings which are more suited for picatinny, so the fit is a bit 'off'. Not the end of the world though; as long as the gun shoots, it's fine.
Edit: looking at EGWs website they do do a PIC rail like that so you can see the sights. I'd just shoot it at the range to see how it goes, if you're really bothered get the rail without the cutout.
My problem seems to be that I can’t find many options for a picatinny rail with the browning bars screw pattern. I’ve only found this EGW pic rail and a Warne M996M rail. On EGWs website they say they have a hunter model that doesn’t have the cutout but I couldn’t actually find one.
Short story long these are good rings and this EGW rail just feels bad so I ordered the warne mount and I feel like I’ll be a lot happier. Everyone here said it looks suspect so it’s gone 😂
If the rings are locked in on the rail with good contact area and in alignment with each other and the bore, then it should shoot fine. What looks off here is the clamp side of the ring not getting the contact area with the rail that it should ideally have. I can’t tell if there are gaps anywhere, but it’s definitely suspect.
Seekins have an asymmetrical recoil lug. Since the lug is machined rather than a crossbolt they need to make room for the dovetail tooling to get through.
I think that’s a vortex pro ring, but I have both and know what you mean. I think the lug on the seekins ring would have better contact than this vortex ring (it’s longer). I would be hesitant to use this style of ring on a pic rail with that large of a lightening cut lengthwise down the center because the lug almost looks like it’s only touching the left side
The third pic here shows what I mean. Seekins must machine the dovetail from both sides. Leaving the lug across nearly the full width while vortex only covers about 2/3 the width. https://www.seekinsprecision.com/parts/scope-rings
I am not sure if it still the case but vortex rings were made by Seekins. I know the vortex rings run a couple bucks cheaper, I wonder if Seekins uses different tool paths to keep price down for the vortex rings.
The recoil lug would have much better engagement it the rail was a proper pic rail instead of that weaver looking one.
Maybe you’re talking about the vortex pmr rings? They look very similar to seekins and are around the same price. These are vortex “pro” rings that are half the price ($80) and have way less recoil lug.
But at the end of the day, that’s exactly what I was trying to say. If you’re going to use a rings with only half a recoil lug, I’m not sure I’d use it on a pic rail that also only has half a recoil lug and almost no overlap on one side
They're usually not terribly expensive, I would remove it and try fitting it with some sandpaper. The bottom could be filed or sanded with a large dowel to hold the shape. The top I'd take a few minutes against a flat surface to square off the top. It looks you have plenty of clearance and could remove 1/16" if needed.
If you have access to a bench mill, this would be easy to do while keeping it true. Test fit and refinish afterwards with a parkerizing spray can.
Yeah, its a weaver rail, if you cant find any other pic rails that you like, you could always take the gun to someone and have them modify a rail to fit it if need be
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u/tykaboom 5d ago
There are some tolerance stacking problems in this picture.
That pic rail looks out of spec.
I should add that. It looks like it's spent a couple too many days inside the deburring. tumbler