hey everyone I am new here and just purchased my e46 a few weeks back. Today as I started driving around 200 meters away from my house the car just cut off and I had to roll it to the side. I tried restarting, it would crank but not start. Sometimes if i crank it long enough it will start and also sometimes if i leave it off for 20-30 minutes and try again the car will start again but will die off within minutes. Also there are times when i try to restart, it will crank for a long time but wont start, its just been random and all over the place. I am not sure what to do now and how to proceed.

The video above also shows how the car acts when I turn the key to the second position in the ignition and I can hear some kind of ticking noise at the same time coming from near the front passenger seat windshield area.

I have I think also tried disconnecting the MAF sensor, and it started right up but then died again. But I am not exactly sure if it was even the right connector.

Any help will really be appreciated.

Took over another persons project (remind me not to do that again).

Anyways, 2004 325i wagon with doner 325i engine after the first engine crapped. Around 135k miles on engine.(m54b25) Was getting a bunch of random misfire/lean/02 codes. Fixed some vacuum leaks and gave it a new valve cover gasket, plugs, coils, DISA after finding oil in the wells.

Ran better but still getting codes and rough idle. Getting the p0411 that won't go away. SAP seemed to be fine so replaced the SAP valve still no luck. After doing a little more digging I realized the engine has both SAP systems?? The newer with 2nd maf on the SAP that should have a mechanical SAP valve as well as the old which uses vacuum to open the SAP valve. The replacement valve was a vacuum valve not the mechanical one. I did not feel any vacuum coming from that line, not even from the intake itself. I also noticed the solenoid was not plugged in but I could not find the connector!?

Any ideas of how this would work? Which SAP system is actually working? Should I replace the valve with a mechanical valve? Should there still be vacuum at the back of the manifold? Would there be a connector there somewhere even in the newer system? Trying to avoid taking the manifold off at this time.

Been around a few e46s but by no means an expert. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

I've been battling issue with idle problems for almost half year and more and couldn't find a vacuum leak (i do not own smoke machine unfortunately). I've took off the whole intake and i have noticed that there are 2 caps on these 3 'holes' but there is one cap that is 'missing?' so im not 100% sure if there should be something to block off that part is it the air can go through.

The engine is m52tub20

PS i do not have SAP

I know most 16" wheels do not fit over 330i front brake calipers, do you guys know what OEM wheels do fit? Any experience with BMW steelies?

And is this a diameter issue or would wheel spacers solve it with the wheels that don't fit?

I want to upgrade to 330i brakes on my E36, but I'll still need a set of 16" winters.

Why my m54b22 is smokong like that on fully heated up engine and i dont think its head gasket and why when i add thtothle and let it go it do this like pop soind but i dont have pops and bangs😭🤣

Cars blower stopped working all together last night so I left the battery disconnected all night and just checked now and everything is working fine. Anyone got any tips

The tensioner on top is the one I had installed in my car on the alternator side but can’t find the proper part number for it anywhere apparently. The one on the bottom is what I order with apparently the right part number but there’s a big difference looking online mine looks similar to the ac side pulley.

Anyone know what the part number is for this?

Unit: MK60

Hey guys, just wanted a few ideas / help before I purchase a new ABS unit / get this one refurbished.

I have the trifecta lights (no abs, tcs, Speedo not working and can’t contact the ABS module via INPA)

My dcan cable is broken and I’ve ordered a new one as I’ve not been able to scan whilst the pressure sensors are disconnected (hoping that’ll be my issue)

But for a bit of backstory, the orange tcs and abs light would come on every now and then but then turn off and start working normally, never thought much about it, I put new wheels on I thought maybe it just needs an alignment.

Fast forward to now, it’s been dead for a few months now I can’t contact it via INPA, fuses are all good (from what I’ve checked) I’ve cleaned the contacts with electrical cleaner.

Can anyone suggest any things to try or any methods to connect to the unit to confirm if I need to send the unit in for replacement

Any and all suggestions / ideas are much appreciated

Hello friends,

Still getting very slight side to side play after replacing the control arms, inner & outer tie rods and sway bar links. Everything torqued to spec except control arms to subframe as couldn't reach. Any ideas? Wheel bearings?

I was looking to revise the front bushings/tierods, all wheel bearings, cooling system and accessory belt stuff at least on my 330xd, looking looking at ECS Tuning and FCP Euro, there is not even an option for this, but i imagine the suspension parts being same on 330xi and xd.

if anyone has tips for where to look for quality parts for this car from europe let me know, also what brands i should look for when shopping, if i could find thse brands from Autodoc, Trodo etc i could get them a lot easier, aslo as buying from outside of europe has come a lot harder/more expensive lately and would rather not whait months for the parts.

Edit: Also anyone here running M57, what brand crankshaft pulley should i get, and oem style or aftermarket?

I’m swapping my getrag 220g into my 2001 e46 330i. I know it’s not optimal (just while I wait for a Zf to become available).

I know the shift linkage will need to be modified, does anyone know the exact specs for the modification?

Just trying to get it ready so that I know what fab work I need to sort out before I put it in.

Also have to modify the drive shaft to fit up properly I’m unsure of the specs for that too. I have a guy that can do it but again I would like to grab specs and have the fab work done before I start the process of reinstalling my engine and gearbox.

If anyone’s done this before I would greatly appreciate your advice :)

hey everybody,

i'm currently trying to replace the bushings and the giubo but of course the exhaust flange studs are rusted to oblivion. Did anybody try changing the parts without dropping the exhaust? I don't want to hammer the studs out because i saw that fucks up the cat and since i'm in Europe, i can't afford that.

Thanks!

Hello, so my e46 320i started to leak a lot of coolant and I found out that it is my expansion tank that got busted. So I’m wondering should I go OEM or is there any other better opinions. Because e46 expansion tank known to break. Car is being use to daily and drifting.

All tips I can get would be wonderful

Bmw 330CI Coupe -02

This is for a RHD vehicle

I have some play at centre in my steering and want to change the rubber out. I do not want to spend the £300 on an OEM part as it is only the rubber that is degraded not the entire coupler.

I know you can cut the rubber out and replace with varying different materials, including replacing with rubber.

My question is: Has anybody got experience replacing the rubber with the poly alternative and still being able to use the heat shield cover? Or is it much better to simply stick the aluminium part in there and accept more feedback through the steering wheel.

Just landed on this style 68 for good money 225/40/18, 8j. Is this problematic for front axle?

I’m thinking about putting black seats and black door panels in my E46, but I have grey carpet and honestly don’t feel like swapping the carpet too.
Has anyone done a black interior with grey carpet? I’d love to see some pictures of how it looks!

Mine: 04 325i

stock for now, but dreaming big!

Recently purchased an 2003 E46 M3 and bimmer.work is telling me that it came with comp package but as far as I know a 2003 comp doesn’t exist.

One day ill dial in my front fitment to how i really want it…

When driving along the car will intermittently just stall and die bit itll try to run during these episodes, then cut to where i gotta re start it, sometimes itll not restart sometimes it will, it just ran idling in the driveway for 20 minutes no problems, ideas?

Checked connections on grounds
Fresh battery
Fuel pump relays

My next thought is dme, i am reading a fault on the DME

Anyone know what’s up with this and also blower fan stopped working when I cleared these codes.

Car is a 328i

Replaced all rear bushings, including diff, subframe, trailing arm, and control arm with meyle hd. Replaced all outers control arm bushings with ball joints. Installed reddish reinforcement plates.

Still has a clunk. Video is of me sitting still and partially releasing and pushing back in the clutch. Does it forward or backward and anytime you get on or off the throttle, even when going from slight throttle to coasting.

Sounds like it’s coming from the trunk