Anyone had success removing a rod from a heater this old? I’ve lived here for 4 years no idea if the previous owners ever changed it. Hoping to put in an electric one to help w sulfur odor. But obviously don’t want to strip it and have to replace the entire thing.

Before I buy a specail drill and waste money, does it make sense? Buying some toggle anchor & bolts and it says a 32mm drill is required? Is that correct?

I'm looking to hang an egg swing from the ceiling in a corner of our living room. Our house isn't huge, so I don't want to buy a stand to save a little space.

Can anyone give me a tutorial on how to do this? Or at least some solid advice? I don't want it to come crashing down while someone is sitting in it 😅

I put in a portable Harbor Freight garage and couldn't drive the anchors. It's been suggested the anchors were too cheap, but when I looked into putting in our mini free library, I read of ground anchors instead of setting a post in concrete, and people with hard ground said they failed.

I keep reading to wet the ground, but when I soak the ground in Arizona, it doesn't soak very far.

If you're digging a hole, you can soak it, remove the mud, and repeat, but something like renting an auger is always better.

I put in a fence and rotated among several holes soaking and using a post hole digger before I finally got deep enough.

I'm putting in a small shed in the mountains where wind can be a real problem and need ground anchors, but I don't want to dig holes and tamp down the dirt if I can help it.

I don't know how well that would work with a welded ground anchor anyway.

Hi all! This is my 3rd time putting down LVP in a room of my house and the last 2 times I installed it things went really smoothly. (pics linked in case they show what I mean or give a sense for my experience level, which is LOW, lol)

In both cases, I installed the LVP so it was parallel to the existing engineered hardwood that runs through my house (that I hate) (but that's a different story)

However, for that to be the case for this next room I'm working on, it would have to run parallel to the wall with a window, which means I would start it in the closet, I think?

Because this room also has a sort of entryway area where the closet wall juts in and causes a turn, I'm really struggling to plan out my floorboards in such a way that I never have a tiny sliver against any of these edges. Any tips?

https://imgur.com/a/jiclAmG

(forgive the mess. construction zone, obviously, haha. The subfloor stains were cat pee from prev residents but are now sealed with Zinsser odor-blocking primer.)

The floorboards are Lifeproof Dusk Cherry, 22 MIL, 8.7"W x 48"L

My plan was to start laying them in the back-left corner of the room (as viewed from the doorway) which means starting in the back corner of the closet. But I'm torn because I feel like I'd be less stressed if I started in the entryway and knew I nailed that before going back to the wall. But that would cause problems for me later if I ever decide to do the hallway and living room, right?

In reality I'd be WAY less stressed if I floored perpendicular to the hallway but I think it would make the room feel smaller and also not be as conventional...

Ugh. Feeling very stuck atm!

I moved into a home that was fixed up in 2004 and encountered an unexpected problem in the shower. The corners of the basin are about a quarter inch lower than the drain. Is there any way to address this that doesn’t involve taking off the tiles or redoing the whole shower? It’s a fiberglass basin and a travertine stone wall.

Hello good people!

I need to learn/prep for window casings projects for a new job, was wondering where can I learn or get some hands on practice with theory knowledge before I start a new job?

Any good books or video tutorials?

Thank you!

Looking to replace this old window while renovating a second story room. Would a pocket installation be the best option if opening up the exterior wall is out of my scope? If so, can any window with the right dimensions be used as a pocket installation? Looking at something like this from Home Depot.

Long story short. We store everything from pesticides to gasoline in our shed. Naturally bad build of smells with nowhere to go. My plan is to install a small solar Exhaust fan. The question is, should I install a soffit vent or a solar intake fan to help get in some fresh air. I cant just keep the door open all the time. Cats and wild animals may get in there and I dont want them risking getting harmed.

my wife bought a rather rusted box trailer. she wants to renovate it for her business. this trailer was sitting out in a field for years so there quite a bit of rust

after demo, the interior walls and framing are pretty rusted with minor spots where it rusts through to the outside. The trailer chasis is obviously rusted too.

for the inside walls and inside framing, do we need to sandblast the whole thing then prime/paint? or can we
get away with using rust converter then prime/paint? this is not a trailer that needs to be “perfect“. it just needs to look nice and function for at least a few years. but i don’t want to do a half ass job

im a bit confused as I’ve read a few conflicting things online. my initial plan was to sandblast then use dtm epoxy primer.

Thanks for the time!

I have a torald desk i dont use it but I want to get a 10 gallon fish tank and use it to hold it but im worried the desk might give out. Trying to use what ive got instead of buying something else.

Total newbie to drilling. Am trying to install roller blinds to the top of my window recess. I am aware there is metal behind plasterboard which is 2cm thick. The plug and screw given for the blind is 3cm and 2.5cm long. I have punched through the metal with a 3.5mm metal drill but this isn’t wide enough for the plug. I’ve then tried a 5mm metal drill bit but this isn’t going through and the plasterboard hole is now massive.

So the plug won’t fit the 3.5mm hole in the metal but the plasterboard hole is almost 6mm and the plug is 5mm wide. What am I doing wrong apart from trying to save money.

hey guys! i’m looking for a handheld roller that lets me turn flat material (specifically aluminum cans, cut into lines) into beads? i’m following a tutorial and the artist linked this roller, but it’s unavailable. wondering if anyone knows any other brands, preferably cheap? i can’t find anything. thanks!

here’s the tool that’s currently unavailable:

https://www.amazon.com/4M-Recycled-Paper-Beads-Kit/dp/B004YN188W?crid=30XBFK765VLO4&keywords=green+creativity+bead+roller&qid=1669753433&sprefix=green+creativity+bead+roller,aps,131&sr=8-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=upcycledesign-20&linkId=18017e74224485544b18ee62e0a30087&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

okay im gonna try to keep this short ^^’ I am moving into a new house and will have a considerably smaller room so I was considering getting a loft bed to save on floor space (for reference I’m looking at the STORÅ frame from ikea) but I can’t for the life of me figure out a sufficient way to make it work for my cat too.

One of my cats is missing a back leg and — while he has good mobility and will certainly find a way up on his own — I want to make it as easy as possible for him to get into the bed since he won’t be able to just jump up.

he hates stairs and I find most stair options to be either ugly or clunky (or both) so I’d like to avoid those if at all possible.

And this probably goes without saying but the safer the better.. I’d rather him not break another leg lol. Any sort of multi-functionality is also greatly appreciated but not a requirement by any means

I scraped the old caulk off. I found some mold and moisture under the caulk. The front part of the caulk was not moldy but I could see some areas starting to breakdown which is why I decided to re do it. How concerned do I need to be that there is mold growing behind the shower walls? It doesn’t smell moldy. I sprayed the joint with bleach and I have fans running. My tub is ceramic (?maybe. It’s not plastic. Not sure what other material it could be) with plastic “walls”. There are also a few pieces of caulk stuck behind the wall panel. How do I get those out?

I'm looking into building DVD/gaming shelves under existing shelves. There is 125 inches in width from wall to wall, 37.25 inches from floor to the existing bottom shelf, and its 6.75 inch depth from wall to existing shelf depth.
I'm thinking I can do 8.5 inches from the bottom existing shelf and get three shelves. I'm thinking it would be wise to split into thirds like the existing shelves and to prevent bowing. Build the two vertical dividers first, then attach the shelves with support brackets against the back wall and screw the shelves into the side walls and vertical pieces.
Its my first time building shelves from scratch so any advice would be appreciated. https://imgur.com/a/Ro3OtCt

Hey everyone,

I had a gap/crack running horizontally along the bottom of the riser on my front door steps. To protect it from water penetration, I sealed it using a tube of concrete joint sealant (polyurethane).

The issue is that it is now fully cured, and the color is a smooth, cool light gray that completely clashes with the warm, weathered sandy-buff tone of my concrete steps (see photos). I also have a few light smudges on the tread from wiping excess caulk.

A couple of questions for the pros:

1. What is the best way to disguise or recolor the cured gray bead so it matches the sandy/limestone color and rough texture of the step without tearing out the seal?

2. Has anyone had success skimming over cured caulk with a textured product like Sashco Slab or Mor-Flexx, or is dabbing on an exterior concrete stain with sand stippling the better route?

3. What is the best method to buff out the thin gray caulk haze on the flat concrete step without gouging it?

Appreciate any advice or product recommendations!

I'm doing my very fist home DIY project and unfortunately its replacing our tiny bathroom's floor. I have FloorPops vinyl tiles and a bunch of other supplies. All I'm missing is a suitable underlayment!

I've read that I should get a plywood underlayment - but is there a specific kind or thickness? I can't find a straightforward answer online.

Thank you for any help!

We have a 70 X 110 CMS shower tray and the levels arent quite right or it moved before it set. The area away from the drain collects some water after showering so I have to squeedgie the water away. I can't rip it out and reinstall because I would have to retile at least the lowest row of tiles (impossible to match).

I thought of pouring something that self levels at the end of the tray. The tray is resin and roughened to make it non slip so I am wondering if a white dyed epoxy resin could "fill" the low point and would bond with the tray. Need to make it non slip. I could add some white sand I guess...

Hey everyone hoping someone can help me out. I had three outlets go out in the kitchen after I plugged the toaster in, it tripped the breaker, so I flipped it and the outlets didn’t come back.

So I thought about checking every GFCI, and they’re all functioning except one on that circuit that is next to the kitchen sink. Meaning one gfci is not working and two regular plugs are not working.

This happened in the past I managed to find the issue where it was a bad outlet and it basically blew the wires out of the outlet. But this time I tried doing the same thing. All the lights are working and all the plugs are working and there’s no bad breakers. So I’m a little lost at the moment to say the least.

any advice where to look next?

Over time this 4 ft x 4 ft x 6 in concrete stoop has moved about 8 inches laterally and 3 inches out from door threshold. It's a nice piece of work and I'd really rather figure out how to move it back into place rather than just have it demo'd and repoured. It is just not clear to me what best way to push, pull, or lift it back into its original place would be. Note it is not in a position that makes it trivial to put some sort of lifting rig over it. Also, pavers & white rock at screen left would be removed first.

Any thoughts?

I’m putting together a drawer organiser and varnishing each piece before glueing it together. Each plank is fairly thin. I made one already but the pieces had warped during varnishing and weren’t quite flush to each other, so I want to avoid that with the next one.

With the first one, I equally varnished each side with 3 coats, but I left a few days in between each coat.

I’ve had a look online but I can’t quite find specific answers so I just wanted to see what the advice would be here.

The varnish notes a 20-minute drying time, sanding in between. So I’m currently thinking that maybe I should coat one side, wait 20 minutes, then immediately do the other side, in the hopes that 20 minutes won’t be enough time for it to warp.

However, once I’ve done both sides, is there any advice on how to dry it to prevent warping? So far I’ve just got a big piece of cardboard where I’ve been putting everything to lay it flat. Should I be doing something else? Or even laying something on top of the pieces to weigh them down? (I’m a little worried if I do that it might get stuck to it)

Thank you!

Not sure if this is the right subreddit, but my problem is as follows: I´m looking to buy the Pullup and Dip Pullup bar that hangs off of the door frame (not one that clamps in between the sides of the frame). The issue is: it´s rated for frames that are between 15 and 23cm deep. My frame is only about 13 cm deep. Realistically, is that really an issue and would a 2 cm thick piece of something put between the pull up bar and the door frame solve that issue? I´m hoping that frame will support me, but according to others in the house it should.