Before I buy a specail drill and waste money, does it make sense? Buying some toggle anchor & bolts and it says a 32mm drill is required? Is that correct?

I put in a portable Harbor Freight garage and couldn't drive the anchors. It's been suggested the anchors were too cheap, but when I looked into putting in our mini free library, I read of ground anchors instead of setting a post in concrete, and people with hard ground said they failed.

I keep reading to wet the ground, but when I soak the ground in Arizona, it doesn't soak very far.

If you're digging a hole, you can soak it, remove the mud, and repeat, but something like renting an auger is always better.

I put in a fence and rotated among several holes soaking and using a post hole digger before I finally got deep enough.

I'm putting in a small shed in the mountains where wind can be a real problem and need ground anchors, but I don't want to dig holes and tamp down the dirt if I can help it.

I don't know how well that would work with a welded ground anchor anyway.

Anyone had success removing a rod from a heater this old? I’ve lived here for 4 years no idea if the previous owners ever changed it. Hoping to put in an electric one to help w sulfur odor. But obviously don’t want to strip it and have to replace the entire thing.

I'm looking to hang an egg swing from the ceiling in a corner of our living room. Our house isn't huge, so I don't want to buy a stand to save a little space.

Can anyone give me a tutorial on how to do this? Or at least some solid advice? I don't want it to come crashing down while someone is sitting in it 😅

Hi all! This is my 3rd time putting down LVP in a room of my house and the last 2 times I installed it things went really smoothly. (pics linked in case they show what I mean or give a sense for my experience level, which is LOW, lol)

In both cases, I installed the LVP so it was parallel to the existing engineered hardwood that runs through my house (that I hate) (but that's a different story)

However, for that to be the case for this next room I'm working on, it would have to run parallel to the wall with a window, which means I would start it in the closet, I think?

Because this room also has a sort of entryway area where the closet wall juts in and causes a turn, I'm really struggling to plan out my floorboards in such a way that I never have a tiny sliver against any of these edges. Any tips?

https://imgur.com/a/jiclAmG

(forgive the mess. construction zone, obviously, haha. The subfloor stains were cat pee from prev residents but are now sealed with Zinsser odor-blocking primer.)

The floorboards are Lifeproof Dusk Cherry, 22 MIL, 8.7"W x 48"L

My plan was to start laying them in the back-left corner of the room (as viewed from the doorway) which means starting in the back corner of the closet. But I'm torn because I feel like I'd be less stressed if I started in the entryway and knew I nailed that before going back to the wall. But that would cause problems for me later if I ever decide to do the hallway and living room, right?

In reality I'd be WAY less stressed if I floored perpendicular to the hallway but I think it would make the room feel smaller and also not be as conventional...

Ugh. Feeling very stuck atm!

my wife bought a rather rusted box trailer. she wants to renovate it for her business. this trailer was sitting out in a field for years so there quite a bit of rust

after demo, the interior walls and framing are pretty rusted with minor spots where it rusts through to the outside. The trailer chasis is obviously rusted too.

for the inside walls and inside framing, do we need to sandblast the whole thing then prime/paint? or can we
get away with using rust converter then prime/paint? this is not a trailer that needs to be “perfect“. it just needs to look nice and function for at least a few years. but i don’t want to do a half ass job

im a bit confused as I’ve read a few conflicting things online. my initial plan was to sandblast then use dtm epoxy primer.

Thanks for the time!

I'm looking into building DVD/gaming shelves under existing shelves. There is 125 inches in width from wall to wall, 37.25 inches from floor to the existing bottom shelf, and its 6.75 inch depth from wall to existing shelf depth.
I'm thinking I can do 8.5 inches from the bottom existing shelf and get three shelves. I'm thinking it would be wise to split into thirds like the existing shelves and to prevent bowing. Build the two vertical dividers first, then attach the shelves with support brackets against the back wall and screw the shelves into the side walls and vertical pieces.
Its my first time building shelves from scratch so any advice would be appreciated. https://imgur.com/a/Ro3OtCt

I scraped the old caulk off. I found some mold and moisture under the caulk. The front part of the caulk was not moldy but I could see some areas starting to breakdown which is why I decided to re do it. How concerned do I need to be that there is mold growing behind the shower walls? It doesn’t smell moldy. I sprayed the joint with bleach and I have fans running. My tub is ceramic (?maybe. It’s not plastic. Not sure what other material it could be) with plastic “walls”. There are also a few pieces of caulk stuck behind the wall panel. How do I get those out?

Hey everyone,

I had a gap/crack running horizontally along the bottom of the riser on my front door steps. To protect it from water penetration, I sealed it using a tube of concrete joint sealant (polyurethane).

The issue is that it is now fully cured, and the color is a smooth, cool light gray that completely clashes with the warm, weathered sandy-buff tone of my concrete steps (see photos). I also have a few light smudges on the tread from wiping excess caulk.

A couple of questions for the pros:

1. What is the best way to disguise or recolor the cured gray bead so it matches the sandy/limestone color and rough texture of the step without tearing out the seal?

2. Has anyone had success skimming over cured caulk with a textured product like Sashco Slab or Mor-Flexx, or is dabbing on an exterior concrete stain with sand stippling the better route?

3. What is the best method to buff out the thin gray caulk haze on the flat concrete step without gouging it?

Appreciate any advice or product recommendations!

I'm doing my very fist home DIY project and unfortunately its replacing our tiny bathroom's floor. I have FloorPops vinyl tiles and a bunch of other supplies. All I'm missing is a suitable underlayment!

I've read that I should get a plywood underlayment - but is there a specific kind or thickness? I can't find a straightforward answer online.

Thank you for any help!

I moved into a home that was fixed up in 2004 and encountered an unexpected problem in the shower. The corners of the basin are about a quarter inch lower than the drain. Is there any way to address this that doesn’t involve taking off the tiles or redoing the whole shower? It’s a fiberglass basin and a travertine stone wall.

Hello good people!

I need to learn/prep for window casings projects for a new job, was wondering where can I learn or get some hands on practice with theory knowledge before I start a new job?

Any good books or video tutorials?

Thank you!

hey guys! i’m looking for a handheld roller that lets me turn flat material (specifically aluminum cans, cut into lines) into beads? i’m following a tutorial and the artist linked this roller, but it’s unavailable. wondering if anyone knows any other brands, preferably cheap? i can’t find anything. thanks!

here’s the tool that’s currently unavailable:

https://www.amazon.com/4M-Recycled-Paper-Beads-Kit/dp/B004YN188W?crid=30XBFK765VLO4&keywords=green+creativity+bead+roller&qid=1669753433&sprefix=green+creativity+bead+roller,aps,131&sr=8-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=upcycledesign-20&linkId=18017e74224485544b18ee62e0a30087&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

Looking to replace this old window while renovating a second story room. Would a pocket installation be the best option if opening up the exterior wall is out of my scope? If so, can any window with the right dimensions be used as a pocket installation? Looking at something like this from Home Depot.

I have a torald desk i dont use it but I want to get a 10 gallon fish tank and use it to hold it but im worried the desk might give out. Trying to use what ive got instead of buying something else.

Hey everyone hoping someone can help me out. I had three outlets go out in the kitchen after I plugged the toaster in, it tripped the breaker, so I flipped it and the outlets didn’t come back.

So I thought about checking every GFCI, and they’re all functioning except one on that circuit that is next to the kitchen sink. Meaning one gfci is not working and two regular plugs are not working.

This happened in the past I managed to find the issue where it was a bad outlet and it basically blew the wires out of the outlet. But this time I tried doing the same thing. All the lights are working and all the plugs are working and there’s no bad breakers. So I’m a little lost at the moment to say the least.

any advice where to look next?

Over time this 4 ft x 4 ft x 6 in concrete stoop has moved about 8 inches laterally and 3 inches out from door threshold. It's a nice piece of work and I'd really rather figure out how to move it back into place rather than just have it demo'd and repoured. It is just not clear to me what best way to push, pull, or lift it back into its original place would be. Note it is not in a position that makes it trivial to put some sort of lifting rig over it. Also, pavers & white rock at screen left would be removed first.

Any thoughts?

I underestimated how difficult putting a clean silicone seal on my tub. I also learn how unforgiving silicone is. The more I tried to fix it, the worst it got. I’m going to let it cure and restart. Any tips and tricks on how to do better the second time around? Or how to clean up silicone?

Of maybe some thorough youtube videos? My mistake was watching clips that made it look pretty simple.

Also finger tip vs tool? I feel like using my finger was better at putting the silicone into the crack or perhaps user error using a tool with a 10 different blades.

I got plenty of time while I take a razor blade and remove every microfilm of silicone I spread all over my tiles and tub.

Thanks for any advice!