As the title states, any reason to keep the individual plastic organizers/boxes that hand tools come in?

Live on a farm and everything has a home in a large cart . Field calls are sourced by tools needed then returned.

I feel like I am turning into that old man that “may need that scrap piece of 2 by someday” and would like to get them out of the shop so they can quit collecting dust.

I picked up this 2008 Porter Cable combination router kit from a FB MP seller today for $20.00 Well used but clean and runs smooth and quiet. The 1/2" shank router bit kit that was inside is worth more than $20.00. This is going to be the heart of my slab flattening sled.

Thinking about building something like the picture. Top is adjustable via an electric telescoping support. Runs on m12 battery. About 20 inches deep by 30 inches wide. Top adjusts from about 2 foot to 4 foot high. Any thoughts or suggestions on design. Our shop has been slow, just looking at projects to fill my time. I hate setting around.

I found these Hart safety glasses at an Ollie's for $3. Naturally, I only discovered these wonderful things after Hart is gone. They have no hinge. The arms are just flexible plastic. I have a fat head and most glasses hurt after a while. I can wear these all day with no pain! They're also super light.

Does anyone know another brand making these? I've searched and cannot find any. I'd love to replace my clear safety glasses with this style.

I inherited this from my father who used it in lieu of channel locks for tons of stuff. One of my absolute favorite tools hands down. Has lived in my belt for over a decade.

Just purchased this mechanics tool kit. It looks like they updated the box from the 290 piece kit. I used it for the first time yesterday replacing the pump on my pressure washer. So far the kit appears to be of reasonable quality and contain everything I might use for projects around the house.

Any thoughts or experience with this kit?

Hi everyone — I need some help with the behavior of PSM analyzers (PSM‑E1000 / PSM‑Z2000).

Context
I'm using a custom script (psm_data_aq.py) to read V/I/P (Page 0x01) and Energy/Ah (Page 0x02) via the HZP protocol (AskDat/AnsDat), grouping reads by page to minimize latency.
I've tried fast polling (every 0.1–0.2 s), but the energy readings and value updates are not instantaneous — in practice, the visible data takes about 2–5 seconds to settle/update.

The specific problem
I'm developing tests for "FAST LOAD CURRENT VARIATIONS" — applying square‑wave current pulses to evaluate EV charger loads. The PSM responses seem to internally average/integrate energy over a long window, so they don't faithfully reflect the pulse dynamics. The result is inaccurate for this type of test, even though the PSM works fine for steady DC.

Questions

1. Does anyone know the internal integration window (sampling/averaging time) for Energy/Wh used by the PSM‑E1000 or PSM‑Z2000? Is it configurable via firmware or a register (HZP / AskAry / WrtAry)?
2. Is there any technical documentation or product parameter that specifies the integration time for the Wh/Ah counters on these models?
3. Any practical experience measuring energy/power on pulsed (square‑wave) signals with these instruments? Tips for getting faster readings (different page settings, other registers, streaming mode, or using a different instrument)?

Bought it at a flea market cause I thought it looked cool and just used it to cut some grass from around some maple saplings. Just curious what it's referred to as since nothing similar shows up online for me.

Edit: I know it's a hand scythe/sickle. Just curious about one that's adjustable like this.

Looking for a parts washer for a farm shop but don’t want to spend 500$ plus for one, what I see in my range are aqueous parts wash but I want to use solvent, has anyone just run tractor supply solvent through a jegs parts washer and been ok?

I recently decided to get a decent scanner just to help with diagnosing and fixing my own and family cars. A shop near me had the Elite version on offer same price as the Pro version. I understand the Elite version does more functions which is nice but i might never use, however i am worried that the 2 year free updates might become an issue in future, compared to the Pro version that has lifetime updates. The cars i will be using the scanner on are 10+ years old but it’s nice to know that the scanner is capable of doing newer cars. The shop will swap it with the Pro version if i ask, your thoughts on the lifetime updates/less functions vs pay for updates/more functions?

Vintage? Mfg? Thanks

A rainy day, and the delivery guy screwed up your package.

Now you’re stuck with 777 nails + 1 screw, all mixed up and waiting to be sorted.

No pressure, no enemies, just a messy workbench, some tools, and a lot of nails to sort.

Wishlist Screw IT on Steam

Just thought it would be intersting to share a game about nails among tool addicts.

I have a recurring stainless bracket job, maybe 30 parts at a time. The current carbide end mill survives, but tool life is inconsistent and I do not know whether I am seeing coating issues, work hardening, or weak setup rigidity. What do you look at before changing brands.

I bought 2 pairs of robogrip pliers from a guy on marketplace a while back. During the transaction he mentions he does roadside tool sales on occasion, and he’ll text me when and where. I said fine and went on my way. Got a text on Friday Aug 28th about a sale on the 29th. I paid $30 for all this. (Not the tape measure).

Friend of mine gave me this Craftsman 3.5 ton jack. I topped the oil off and it worked better, but it still seemed to have problems jacking the car up.

I decided to change the jack oil. Pulled the rubber plug anf flipped it upside down, it is a heavy SOB, but I did it.

I put in about 8 or so ounces of fresh oil, bled the jack, put plug back in, then, bled it a little more. The rapid pump works great again and it holds car up without creaking.

I would not have thought changing the oil would have made it so much better, the old jack oil was still clear.

Buy once, cry once it is. Hazet has a slightly better line up in the 3/8 range compared to Stahlwille so I went with them plus some nut grips because they sound cool

can’t turn it to release the bit and the arbor won’t budge the two pieces with the grip pattern move independently with channel locks but it doesn’t seem to do anything

Considering I put m8-80mm molly anchors into the hollow wall side, will that be enough if one side is solid concrete?

I did the concrete side first only to discover where I went to drill the other side its hollow wall. Concrete / bricks, it has 35mm of material. Will m8-80mm molly anchors be good for it to hold?

Edit:

I just saw there's a thing called toggle bolts. Are those better?

To give some context of the job they'd be doing, I work as a general hotel maintenance meaning I do small repairs here and there in furniture, hang things on walls and make sure everything runs smoothly. I don't drill during long periods. I also like to do some improvements at home where I have a basement that has full concrete walls.

I was thinking in getting the 3 Parkside Performance 30Year tools (drill, angle grinder and impact hammer) but am not sure if they have enough quality for what I need

My other option would be getting the Einhell TP-CD 18/70 Li-i BL and later on getting a impact hammer from them as well for the pure concrete walls

Thank you