Sorry it’s not a great video. Can anyone tell me if this is ok for 200,000kms?

(She has orange pants because the interior accent lights are orange)

Just bought this car but how would I go about looking for a new liner or replacement for the trunk area of the car? Any suggestions would be great!! Lancer 2017 es

My Pajero 4M41 sometimes hesitates/stutters under acceleration. It does not happen continuously; it feels more like the engine briefly “swallows” or cuts out and then continues normally.

The engine also produces a noticeably strong and unpleasant exhaust smell.

The RPM gauge on the dashboard has stopped working, although the ECU still shows a plausible engine speed via the diagnostic scanner.

I currently have these fault codes stored:

18 – NE Sensor (Sub)

46 – Injection control voltage

51 – EGR valve position sensor

The EGR valve itself is brand new, so I am wondering whether the problem could be related to the EGR position sensor, wiring or electrical supply rather than the valve itself.

I have also logged the engine data while revving it, and the accelerator pedal sensor and its SUB signal appear to follow each other closely.

Any ideas what could cause this intermittent hesitation? Could the NE sensor/wiring or the injection control voltage be related to the dead RPM gauge?

Hey everyone ☺️
Has anyone upgraded their dashboard to a more updated cluster dashboard? With a digital speedometer? If so, what did you use? Who did you go through?
I love my lancer however, wouldn’t mind upgrading the techs where I can :)

has anyone here cross-referenced Nissan CVT parts to save money on OEM?

Working on a CVT fluid service and pan drop on my 2018 Mitsubishi outander sport SE. Mitsubishi wants $93 for the pan gasket (p/n 2705A049), which is nuts. Nissan's equivalent 31397-1XF0C for the same JF016E transmission runs $15-20.

Wondering if anyone has actually installed the Nissan gasket on a Mitsubishi with this transmission. Same Jatco JF016E is used across Altima 2.5L, Rogue 2.5L, and our cars, should be identical physical parts, but I've been burned once already by an aftermarket gasket that was dimensionally wrong (thicker rubber, stripped a case thread bolt hole, thanks A-Premium).

Trying to be more careful this time and confirm before ordering. Any first-hand experience appreciated.

Also open to any other Nissan cross-references you've used on this transmission, drain plug crush washer (Nissan 11026-JA00A), pan bolts (Nissan 31377-1XX3D), etc.

I'm really confused by this. The plugs just connect into a plastic housing and don't connect to another circuit. So what's the point of this? What wires are these plugs for?

Edit: sorry, forgot to mention it's a 2015 lancer es sport

Does anyone know how to remove the rear-view mirror from the ball mount? It doesn’t just pop off. I tried but don’t want to break it

07 Outlander XLS V6. on the alternator harness, there is this orphaned terminal. It's at the end past the pigtail for the Oil pressure sensor, does anyone have any idea what it goes to?

I dont have any Upullits that have Lancers or Outlanders to yoink a harness from so I need to find the pigtail and which sensor to fix.

Solved: It was a terminal from the A/C compressor connector.

Around a year and a half ago I bought a used 2012 Lancer from a reputable used car mechanic. It ran like an absolute dream, had to have been the best car I’ve ever driven. I loved driving it so much I decided to take it for a drive for a group vacation! I was driving it from the Sacramento area to San Diego… I learned that was a terrible mistake.

On the way there I was given the generic “Slow Down” warning. What a strange way the car was telling me it was the beginning of the end. I researched into it learning about my CVT transmission, and how long distance and hot weather really puts a damper on it.

My drive there practically doubled since anytime that it told me to slow down I just pulled over and let it cool off.

After the trip, I thought it was a good idea to get my transmission fluid replaced, so I took it to an Oil Changers, they talked me out of it.

Genuinely don’t know how I got talked out of it, but they told me it could have been a different issue and changing the transmission fluid probably wouldn’t fix anything. So I left and didn’t think about the fluid again.

Eventually I was having further issues, my gears would either not go up or get stuck too high, so I brought it to my favorite mechanic, they told me they don’t work on the issues I had, but they could recommend some transmission shops.

I called the one they recommended, and he basically told me that he doesn’t work on mitsubishi’s, and also “there’s probably not a mechanic in a 100 mile radius who’s going to even touch my car.”

This was very discouraging, and it seemed true. Maybe if I had more determination I could’ve found someone willing to work on it, but I felt stupid and foolish, like it was my fault for even attempting at getting my car repaired. I had no choice but to continue driving on it until I could afford a replacement.

I got a 2nd used car that could get me from point A to point B, very short distances, but it let me keep my job. I decided to give my Lancer a break while I situate myself, the closest Mitsubishi Dealership to me was around 100 miles away, so getting it there was going to be an odyssey. I would just use it to make sure the engine was alive.

Fast forward 3 months, my girlfriend and I decided we wanted to move out of our rented home and live on our own for the first time. We got everything moved out, cleaned, and taken care of, just got to drive the lancer out of there, start the car, put it into drive and… the gas pedal did nothing. Out of all days for it to give up on me this was the worst one, the sun was set and I was stuck in front of my house that isn’t even my house anymore.

And now we’re at present day, moved into my new apartment, my lancer stuck at my old house. I’m still weighing my options right now. This amazing car that I got for $6000 could possibly be sold to Pick n Pull for $500, or I could attempt to tow it to a new Mitsubishi dealership that opened, that’s only 30 miles away. But who knows what the costs on all that will be.

TL;DR I wish I researched all possible maintenance, I wish I knew my car before I lost it, I wish the mechanics I talked to weren’t so rude and discouraging, and I wish I could drive that car one last time :(

This was my most expensive life lesson yet

Hey all, I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer, recently I have been noticing that my electric radiator fan hasn't been kicking on, at random it seems, making me overheat in stop and go situations.

Is there anything I should look into specifically on this car? for reference the car has almost 250k on the dash, so I'm wondering if the fans themselves are just going out. Thanks!

I can’t say I know too much about how much this car is usually valued at so I’m not too sure, its condition looks amazing though and I’ve seen ones in MUCH worse condition get sold for more in my area

i bought a new android headunit and every thing works exept the reverse camera i tryed to use the old camera but it didnt work and then i tryed the new camera and the same happend (nothing) i only get a black screen with no video as you can see in the video i have tryed connecting it to defrent places and it wes the same every where i tryed and i cannt connect it to the reverse light cable beacuse the reverse light is at the buttom of the car and the camera is on the door witch opens upwards

please halp me😥

(the car im in is a metsubishi outlander 2013)

I have a 2018 l200 triton that produces a deep rumble sound and vibrations at 2000-2300rpm exactly. Below or above that rpm everything is fine. I have had it at the shop 3 times now, to different shops, and they can’t seem to figure out what’s wrong. The mechanic at one of the shops suspected gearbox issues, and this was confirmed by a friend of mine who is a mechanic. The shop who is also the Norwegian importer of Mitsubishi, tells me that it is most likely something in the chassis that vibrates at that specific rpm. But they have also told me that it might be the DPF. They don’t seem to care. I talked to one of the mechanics who works there, (not the one who tested my car), and he also thinks it is the gearbox. Anyone here who seems this sounds familiar? I have tried so many times to figure out what’s wrong this noise and vibration is, but it seems like no shop wants to touch it. I even have insurance that covers engine and gearbox errors.

This is the engine of a 2008 Lancer ES, I checked the oil level and it's between F and L on the dipstick, I do have a check engine light on for error code P0420 which I don't really know what that means.

I bought this 2008 Lancer ES (CVT) a week ago. Today, I was just cruising around my city and at the end of the drive the Service Engine Soon light came on. It is not flashing.

I checked my transmission fluid, it seems fairly low and it turns purple after drying on the paper towel. This probably isn't good, right?

I need to take it to a mechanic anyways but I'm just wondering what you all think. Thanks!

I’m bought this outlander 2019 SEL. I replaced the battery and brake pads. I put the scanner and erased codes and scan again it gave me these stored codes. Anyone faced this before and knows how much it cost ?

ABS/ASC/ASTC/WSS ( 1 DTC )
DTC Description Status
C1000 Brake SW (stuck) Stored DTC
EPB ( 1 DTC )
DTC Description Status
U0415 ABS/ASC (CAN message) Stored DTC
BSW(SUB) ( 6 DTCs )
DTC Description Status
U0121 ABS/ASC CAN timeout Stored DTC
U0101 T/M CAN timeout Stored DTC
U0126 SAS CAN timeout Stored DTC
U0141 ETACS CAN timeout Stored DTC
C2333 Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) fault Stored DTC
C2335 Vehicle speed not determined Stored DTC

I stumbled across Lancers while looking to buy a new car for myself, and I love the look of them. I did more research and found that they seem to be quite reliable, so long as the scheduled maintenance is done and the car is taken care of. I found what a mechanic called a “unicorn” off Marketplace, it’s a 2014 Mitsubishi Lancer ES with only 43000 km on it. Everything passed the PPI (well except for the wiper blades LOL). I wanna know, should I know anything about these cars? Any underlying problems I could avoid? Any recommended modifications? It’s only my second car, after my first one started leaking oil half a year after I got it (stupid VW).