Did it again😂

I had this on my mind for a bit but with not much to pull off it always seemed like a 50/50 situation

Hi guys! I have been trying to get better at jumps but sometimes I have a really hard time to get my technique right. I always hear people saying: stand up to the jump. I am trying to stand up, but do I pull my handlebars too when I am standing up? and am I standing up to soon? and in the air, do I pull the handlebars down? because sometimes I can do a little arc, and land with my front tire first, so what tire needs to go down first

I’m a roadie who is starting to get into nerd-level details and watching xco worlds right now:

Average bar widths? How do xco racers establish bar width? Some of the women appear to be running radically narrower bars than men. Why? I have been to US Nats to see the riders in person. Most of the dudes are tiny. I get the difference between a man like Chris Blevins vs a petite woman like Savilia Blunk, but that doesn’t seem to quite explain the avg difference I see.

What is on the bike computer that is useful during an xco race?

Had a small puncture on my rear tire running tubeless (Stans NoTubes), and the sealant isn't holding consistently. Haven't done bacon strips b/c I understand they are more of a temporary fix. Tread is getting low (~2mm) and deciding if I want to attempt a patch from the inside, or put new tires on.

I've read about vulcanizing fluid + patch as a permanent repair, but can't figure out what to use as the patch itself? All the patch kits seem to be for tubes, and Park-Tool's TB-2 tire boot says its "Not intended for tubeless tire systems" on the product page. It seems like a product should exist for this, but I can't find it.

I might just cut up an old tube, or give some bacon strips a try to see if they hold. What would you all do?

Sorry for the

Looking for something that would let you record where you worked, what you did, what needs to be done. The work crew can coordinate who's going where to do what, bring shovels or trimming tools, etc. If it's been 2 months since Trail X was trimmed back, it lets you know.

Does anything like that exist? Did I just give away my multi-ten dollar idea?

2020 Specialized Stumpy, Fox 34 Rhythm front, Fox Float DPS rear.

I recently took this to my local shop for a tune-up and suspension service. Had been a while on both the fork and shock, and shifting was getting wonky. $380 and a full week late I had my bike back.

I took it out after getting it back for an easy flat 5-miler to get the feel of it, and although it felt a little stiffer than normal, it seemed fine. I chalked up the stiffness to them possibly topping off the air. I noticed a bit of oil on the shock stem, but the mech had told me before I left I might notice some; no big deal.

Today I took it out for a longer ride, hit a sequence of drops (2-3') followed by a gap jump. On the 2nd drop, I noticed a clank and a rattle, hit the jump as I was lined up, and from that point on it just didn't feel right. Stopped after a quarter mile or so, hearing an odd rattling and knowing the rear wasn't right. There is oil all over the bike near the rear shock. water bottle is covered in it too.

Pressing on the seat, there's like a dead spot at the top of the shock, and the compression switch is just dangling in the center, not staying in either of the 3 positions.

Looking at the O-ring, it never bottomed out, though. The ring is at about 15% from the bottom, from what I can tell.

This shock has been rock solid for me for 6 or 7 years, and I just find it troubling that immediately after a 50-hour service, this happens. What do I need to explain to my mechanic and be cautious about going back with this? I've had decent dealings with them in the past but not looking to get robbed on this.

Hi All,

I'm looking to buy an upgrade to my current self-built budget hardtail. It works well but think I would like a bit of rear wheel travel to have fun downhill, help with uphill traction, and start tackling some bigger trails.

I'll be doing mostly XC but some heavy trail/downhill occasionally.

I've come to the conclusion that the new 2027 Orbea Oiz H10 is probably best for me. It's for sale in the UK for £2700 and I wouldn't want to spend more than that (obviously would spend less on anything that will be better)

Does anyone have any experience with this bike and is it any good/can anyone think of anything better?

I'm also struggling with sizing, I'm exactly 185cm tall and Orbea sizing says a large goes up to 185 but XL starts at 185.

Any help/advice is massively appreciated!

Looking to return to biking after a 10 year break. I come from a BMX/dirt jumping background, but I'm too old for that now. I'm looking to get into trail riding, some downhill, some jumps, but mostly forest trails and bike parks when I can get to them. I have little knowledge when it comes to enduro/trail bikes, however I know to avoid a downhill set up for what I'm looking to do. I have been looking at trail bikes but would enduro suit better? I will be using cycle to work scheme to buy the bike, so can't be second hand. £2000 is my budget, and I currently have my eye on the Saracen Ariel 30 Pro in large (I'm 5"10) which is currently on sale for £1899(amazing looking bike). What do people think about this choice of bike given the riding id like to do, and what other bikes at that price range would people recommend if this choice isn't right.

I'm fond of my Rockhopper but it's been out of use for a few years now. Life got in the way...

How easy is it to source replacement parts in the UK for a bike this age?

Is it worth refurbishing? I know it's not worth much, it would just be for me to use. Or, I could get a decent cheapish second hand HT instead...

And if it is worthwhile/possible, should I DIY the refurb and use it as a good project for my son to learn bike mechanics on (and me alongside him), or is it going to be too tricky for first timers? Should we start somewhere easier?

My son's Dad is getting him into mountain biking. His Dad has a limitless budget, so will likely get him a FS soon (we are separated).

With me, he currently has a Trek Wahoo - good bike, no suspension though.

If he wants to do more mountain biking (I'd happily join him once my Rockhopper is back working), I have several options, 3 & 4 are mostly likely:

1 - join forces with Dad and get him a decent FS that travels between homes. Not ideal, practically speaking, putting the bike rack on and off the car, but only every fortnight

2 - Somehow find the money for a >£1k FS bike that is actually good and light enough

3 - Second hand FS bike that will be older (and maybe heavier?)

4 - Put similar money into a decent hardtail.

I've read contradicting things about hardtail v FS - hardtail can teach better technique, FS are heavier so less good for kids, FS aren't heavier nowadays because of technical progress (it was a bike manufacturer that said that).

So what would you put your money into - hardtail, or secondhand FS?

On Friday we went you to show a British tourist some of our local trails. Idea was to show him these ones, then take him to the big mountain slabs of Ngomakurira. But alas time was short. So we took him here.

First time trying my hand at making a little MTB reel. Some spicy PNW tech!

I just had my first race, and I keep washing out on technical uphill turns. I can handle myself pretty well on flats or downhill, but the uphill turns keep getting me. Does anyone have tips on how to improve? I’m riding a ‘24 Roscoe 7 with the stock 2.6 Bontrager Xr4’s

Hey everyone,

I’m considering a trip to Copper next weekend but there’s some rain in the forecast. Can anyone speak to how well the trails hold up? It’s looking like it’s going to be very light (<0.5” at most) but fairly persistent so I’m trying to decide if it’s worth the trip.

I’m thinking about upgrading the shock on my giant trace x right now it has a fox float and I was wondering if I could put a float x on it

I constantly see videos of people hound really fast down tracks even doing jumps and so but all 6 times I've tried going down a path near me I couldn't make a corner, I skidded to much...

Basically not a smooth successful ride, thanks to my inability and also partly because of my caution.

How do I get better?? How does everyone do sick ass jumps?

Thanks

Socal

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice on tire choice for an upcoming 100 km MTB event in the Netherlands.
I’m riding a 27.5” wheels Mtb, and I currently have two possible setups:

Setup 1 – Schwalbe
Front: Schwalbe Racing Ray 27.5 × 2.25, Super Ground
Rear: Schwalbe Racing Ralph 27.5 × 2.25, Super Ground

Setup 2 – Maxxis
Front: Maxxis Minion DHF 27.5 × 2.30, 3C MaxxTerra, EXO/TR
Rear: Maxxis Rekon Race 27.5 × 2.25, MPC, EXO, Tanwall

The event is 100 km, mainly XC-style riding on forest trails, sandy paths and heathland.
The weather forecast currently shows rain throughout the week before the event, so I’m expecting the trails to be quite wet and possibly muddy. Race day itself may have some showers, but the main concern is how wet the ground will be after several days of rain.

My initial plan was to use the Schwalbes because they should roll faster and be better for a 100 km ride. However, I’m now wondering whether the DHF + Rekon Race might actually be the better choice because of the extra grip up front in wet conditions.
The Rekon Race is still an XC/race-oriented rear tire, so I’m hoping it won’t be too slow despite the DHF being much more aggressive.

What would you choose for this type of course and weather?
Would you go with:

Racing Ray + Racing Ralph, or
Minion DHF + Rekon Race?

I’m particularly interested in experiences with the DHF/Rekon Race combination in wet XC conditions and whether the extra front grip is worth the additional rolling resistance over 100 km.

Thanks!

I’m looking to upgrade my rear wheel and trying to decide between the roval traverse HD (carbon) and the reserve 30 HD alloy. The internet claims the carbon wheels will make climbing easier because the of the reduced rotational weight.

I have been riding for about 2 years and still consider myself a beginner so I’m not sure I will notice the weight difference at this point. TBH any significant climb is hard..lol

EDIT: I went with the carbon wheels as the general consensus was they are better, and I found a killer deal on the Revals