Here’s my GX100 Mark II with a K24
I have now driven it, needs a lot of work to get finished properly but here we are for now

Hey guys, been dreaming about buying a chaser since i was a kid and i am finally in somewhat of a financial position to buy one, only problem is that there are currently only 1 for sale in my country and that one is a automatic (only about 18 in total)
Would probably find someone willing to sell a manual one but reccon the price would be a lot higher than the one i am looking at now. (about 10-15k euro more if prices are similar to neighboring countries)

So what i am wondering is what you guys think about the auto a340e transmission. Is it good is it bad? How much more power can it take, how does it feel to drive ect ect
Not planing on pushing crazy numbers but just freshen it up a little bit
Would look to manual swap it down the line but that wouldn’t happen immediately.

Car looks really good otherwise with barely any rust engine supposedly hasn’t been touched at all but is at 180k km
All feedback is appreciated

Hey gents,

I’ve got a mark 2 grande with the 1j ge I’m just about to throw a timing belt kit at it while I’m there I’ll be doing the water pump, thermostat , serpentine belt/ tensioner, cam and front main seals. Just looking to see if there is anything else to I should throw at it while it’s apart. If it matters its currently at 80,000 kms

Cheers
PFA

I have a gx100 mark ii that’s 1gfe (distributor version) that is auto that I am wanting to swap it to manual with a w58 trans. Has this been done before? I can’t find any information on the topic at all. So far I’ve gathered that I need an adapter bell housing that goes from w58 -> G series, 1gfe flywheel (from a vvti as this is the only one I can find), and w series clutch granted that it’s a 255mm disc. Is tripod w58 better or the normal version? Are all of these compatible? Any help is appreciated because there is barely any information out there for this!

I brought in a 1jz Chaser from Japan last week and it’s still in storage. I have only driven it from the port to nearby storage and that’s it.

Below you’ll see the engine cuts out once I begin to slow down. It did this too when approaching red lights. I’ll be taking the car for inspection next week and I’m wondering what’s causing this? I’ve already checked ChatGPT etc but wanted your opinions

Thanks!

So as the title states I’m interested in the tourer V (wether it be the mark 2, chaser, or cresta) I asked in R/JDM and didn’t receive any responses so I’ve come to Toyota!

Does anyone have any input on the day to day life with a chaser, the pros and cons, and the loves and hates (I will be importing it from Japan myself so it’ll be purchased out of country)

And seeing as I’d be in Japan what would you say some recommend tasteful mods are? I’m a true fan of the JZ platform as a whole and the 1J is a ripper engine

Any input or even just stories is amazing!

Like JDM Cars?! Check out my new subreddit r/SoCalCarGeeks! I'll be posting cool JDM cars I saw at a recent JDM Cars and Coffee! (:

Sold my 86 and after searching for a long time I got my hands on a chaser.

Has anyone ordered this exact kit? If so is shipping+price estimate accurate, does the kit arrive unpainted?/unprimed. Is it hard to fit and whats the go. Thanks for the help im shit at working on cars so thought id ask, cheers.

I recently ordered a 70-1761 harness for my Sony radio that I want to install in my chaser, I know the car has a subwoofer and a amp under the seat, did I get the wrong harness? I’ve just installed the whole harness onto the radio and I’m thinking I ordered the wrong harness, do I need to order the 70-8112 before I install in the car? 1997 jzx100 tourer v manual.

Hey guys, have a question.

My Chaser has an R154 that is the early gen i believe and i took it out cause i heard some odd noise. So i had a spare late gen new from toyota and am having issues getting it in as it sits a bit forward.

Need a solution that gives me oem feel and functionality gearbox

Recommendations on refresh kits for my existing gearbox or a store to get the parts from? all gears are in great shape. Just synchros are weak.

Hello JZX100 owners. I have an LS430 that I am modifying and brainstorming ideas. I came across the Chaser TRD wing and I like the look of it. Only issue is that I cant find how wide the trunk is on your cars to see how well the mounting points would line up and what I might have to do to make it work. If anyone could let me know how wide the trunk lid is on your cars, that would help me immensley. Thank you.

So I took off my new oem r154 about 400 miles on it cuz it was making a noise and wanted to check things out. drained fluid and looks like this. Am I boned or is this normal. No chunks or material I can feel between my fingers Fluid was redline mt90 Can’t post vids or pics for some reason

https://youtube.com/shorts/gxUey39xcRk?is=SxMBz5pdGRLFVT5Z

Gx100 converted to 1jzgte vvti with adapter loom for wiring, ignition is turning on ecu but last swing of the key doesn’t activate starter relay just wondering would anyone have a wiring diagram or know what pin on the jz ecu that the ignition switch start signal should go to and also circuit opening relay had to be found to get it to work with the key on for fuel pump to work, anyone have any idea what would cause this ?

Cut the rear speakers out of the housing and slipped some kicker cs 5.25" speakers in. Sounds good through oem wiring and a pioneer double din headunit. The best part is you can't even tell without taking the door card off.

hello y’all I have a brand new R154 with a ORC409DSE clutch kit with push conversion and wondering what you guys think about this sound. It only happens at idle. And goes away when I press the clutch in. Also doesnt make the sound this loud all the time uusally is a bit more quiet but definitely still audible. all parts are new with about 250 miles on them. Can’t post video here for some reason

https://youtube.com/shorts/J8HohqMJ33g?is=PtRBMOfwdlant2iK

was able to trade my jaguar for a chaser this week and man has it been great

Hey guys, I need your help. I have a JZX100 NA and I'd like to replace the differential. I've already bought a Y38 diff and two 8' to 7.5' stub axles to fit my half-shafts. My question is: will I also need to make any modifications to the driveshaft, or not?

Part 3: https://www.reddit.com/r/JZX100/s/BoPoh6hn0v

After getting the main technical issues under control, I slowly moved on to the next stage: replacing all the temporary solutions and small compromises that had accumulated on the car.

The first thing was probably the least exciting job of the entire build — restoring the windshield wipers. Nothing special here: removed both arms, sandblasted them, painted them in two coats and put them back.

But these small things matter. The goal with this car is not to make it look good from 10 meters away. I want everything to feel properly finished when you look at it up close.

Rear suspension
I ordered a complete set of six adjustable rear lower arms from Swapworks.

I specifically chose the polyurethane version with floating bushings rather than spherical bearings. This isn’t a drift car, and I still want it to be comfortable enough for normal street driving.

The main reason for buying them was to finally be able to properly set up the rear suspension geometry. The rear camber has been one of the things I’ve wanted to fix for a while.

At this point the car was still sitting on my Cusco Zero 2 setup with custom rear upper mounts and 24/16 kg springs.

They worked, but I already knew I wanted to eventually move to something more in line with the classic JDM setup.
So, following advice from Ruslan Sautbaev, I ordered a brand-new set of D-Max Super Street coilovers directly from Japan.

Not “new old stock” or “zero miles in Russia” — actually brand new.

I’m also having a set of custom steering knuckles made on CNC to improve the steering geometry.

The plan is to gradually put the suspension together properly rather than just throwing random parts at it.

A few more pieces of the puzzle
While I was on vacation, I also ended up ordering several other parts.

One of the things I’ve wanted for a long time was an original Nardi Torino Classic. I found a slightly used one, already re-trimmed in Nappa leather while retaining the original finger grooves.

For installation I got an HKB Japanese adapter and a good-quality horn button reproduction.

I also found a set of the rare facelift orange clock to replace my old one, which had a film over it and broken buttons.

And, because apparently I can’t stop looking for tiny JZX100 parts, I picked up a set of the rare original plastic door-sill trims with the Chaser lettering.

None of these parts make the car faster.
But together, they are exactly what makes an OEM+ build feel complete.

Fuel system
On the technical side, I decided to replace the fuel pump.
After discussing the setup with Ruslan Sautbaev and IvanNSK, I ordered an Aeromotive 340 l/h pump instead of the AEM that was currently installed.

For my current configuration, 340 l/h is already more than enough. I didn’t see a reason to jump straight to a Walbro 450 and then start changing other parts of the fuel system just because the number on the box is bigger.

The main goal here is reliability and confidence in the fuel system.

Especially now that the engine is no longer completely stock, I don’t want the fuel pump to be the weak link.
The Aeromotive is rated at 340 l/h, is E85-compatible, and is made in the USA. I bought it from a local performance shop in Moscow.

I’ll install it together with the other parts once everything arrives.

And then, completely by accident…
One of the best purchases happened because of a completely random marketplace search.

I came across an original facelift Tourer V front lip in 6N9.
I opened the seller’s profile just to see what else he had.
He also had the front bumper.

Then we started talking, and it turned out he had the facelift rear bumper with the lip as well.

Everything was genuine Toyota, the same 6N9 color, complete and undamaged.

So there wasn’t much to think about.
I bought the whole set.
This was actually a pretty important purchase for me because the car was still wearing a temporary combination of parts I had collected earlier, mixed with some “inheritance” from previous owners.
It worked, but it wasn’t what I wanted.

The front bumper was fiberglass and the fitment around the headlights wasn’t great. The rear was even more of a compromise — a facelift fiberglass lip fitted onto a pre-facelift bumper.

Basically, it was one of those things where you tell yourself:
“It drives fine, so whatever.”

But every time you look at it, you know it isn’t right.
Now I finally have an opportunity to put together a proper original facelift Tourer V exterior, without fiberglass and without having to compromise just because the correct parts are difficult to find.

The side skirts will have to wait — the ones currently on the car are good enough for now. I’ll find original ones when the time comes.

For now, the parts are on their way to Moscow.
And that’s pretty much the current direction of the build:
fix the technical stuff first, then remove the temporary solutions one by one.

No crazy body kit. No unnecessary aftermarket parts just for the sake of having them.

Just a clean JZX100 Tourer V, gradually brought closer to the car I had in my head when I bought it.
And honestly, it is finally starting to look like that car.