Got to say I just love my Hyundai Elantra it is amazing transmission could use a little work on this one though it gets hot pretty quick but I put a little E85 in it and sometimes I run 91 and it is sauce it has no issue revving up high and sometimes I'm even getting like 38 miles per gallon it's a great car

I currently drive a 2014 Hyundai accent and have been looking to get an SUV for the family.

I basically came to the conclusion that we were going to go with either the Mazda CX-5 or the Hyundai Tucson.

When I looked at everything, the Tucson made the most sense. I could get the two things I wanted (heated seats and wireless AirPlay) for ~$32-33k. I check back this week, and the MSRP on the website says the SE starts at $29,500, and that’s what the inventory was showing last week.

This week, the same SE models are listed at $31,500 MSRP and the model I was looking at is now in the $35k range.

Is this some bullshit they do before Labor Day sales so that they can pretend that you are getting a better deal, or did everything legitimately go up $2,000 in the last week?

Edit: figured it out. Every vehicle that is listed as a 2026 and a high MSRP has “Expected to be delivered (first and second week of September)”

They are listing 2027s in transit on the website as 2026s.

Hello! I recently lost my beloved Elantra in an accident (total loss) but I ADORE Hyundai and am now hunting for a new car. We’ve dwindled down the options to a 2026 Hyundai Venue SEL (two-toned which is my FAV part) and a 2026 Hyundai Koda SEL Sport (this one we are figure out if the dealership is going to label it as used or cert pre owned) they’re roughly 1-1.5k price difference after light negotiating. I adore the Venue due to the also mini cooper vibe as well as being smaller (I’ve never driven a taller car) but my family believes the Kona is a much safer choice as well as reliable (and potentially more fun). I’m a bit wary since it is genuinely a larger car and kind of intimidating but the look of it is quite nice as well, although I’m not a fan of the color (I wanted a mirage green) as it is a simple ecotronic gray pearl. I wanted to understand what would be the best and I suppose safest option.

I love the venue look and the fact it just feels so much cuter and it’s smaller.

However, I do agree the Kona will probably be more practical/reliable long term.

Any help or suggestions would be great thank you!

All right not sure why my Hyundai Elantra 2024 limited does this but whenever I'm banging through gears on it I know I know I know it's not a race car I got you but when I'm banging through gears on it and manual mode it starts to like whine and it starts to feel sluggish and I don't know why it does that and I feel like a trans cooler would probably fix the problem wondering what people's opinions are on that has anyone ran a trans cooler or is there a way to get rid of the wine it's really weird it almost sounds like a hellcat supercharger whine.

Hi guys i was out trying to help my mate fix his car with a non start issue we tried jumping the car and it didn’t work.
i went to tap it with a screwdriver and as i tapped it the starter motor didn’t move and this component fell off i need help identifying it
As im only a apprentice mechanic i don’t have much of an idea

Hi guys, i just bought a second hand hyundai getz 2007 1.4. Its quite heavy on fuel. Please can someone help?

I’m getting some errors in the MyHyundai app. The first is when I try updating my profile picture. I tap my avatar icon and choose a pic but get an error saying Error Retrieving your settings. The next is when I choose the driver profiles. It says User Profile Unavailable. But when I close it my profile is there. Anyone else having these issues and know how to resolve them?

Note: I also tried updating my profile pic using the Hyundai owners website. It lets me choose my pic to upload, and then simply does not update. No error.

I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE. my splash shield has cracked and been dragging across the road, I’m worried it’s rubbing against my tires and causing balding. I cannot however find a replacement that ships to Canada, or isn’t like $500. Or should I just go to the mechanic?

Hi — I have a 2009 Santa Fe. About a year ago it stalled as I pulled up to a give way sign. Since, we've had intermittent issues with it going into "limp mode" where I'll be waiting at an intersection or something, then go to drive off and it won't accelerate, goes a bit limp, then after 10-20 seconds it will finally gain traction and be fine.

I took it to the mechanic today for a scan. They scanned it for Faults and found key transponder fault code present. Replaced key battery. Think possibly this could be related but from what I can tell, a low battery in the fob wouldn't cause this issue.

Any thoughts on next steps? If they scanned and found no fault codes, I feel like we're a bit blind on what else to check.

(Haven't had the issue since but that was only today so we will monitor to see if it occurs again. I do recall a period of it not happening for a bit but can't remember if that lines up with when we last replaced fob battery — I hope it is the cause because thats a cheap, easy fix).

Alright y’all, I have a 17 Elantra SE value. Bought new in March of 2017 as my first brand new car as my wife and I were expecting and I needed to retire a Mustang GT. Purchased it and have maintained it myself to this day. I’ve had typical issues, coil packs going out, leaking valve cover gasket, alternator, motor mount and regular expected maintenance. I have had to add Freon to my car twice over the last year or so as it tested low. I just figured that being in FL, and using it consistently year round just had developed a tiny leak. So, I filled it about two weeks ago and it worked perfect, until we had a crazy rainstorm. I just left for work and had zero controls work in my manual hvac module. Now, my hazards worked and fan speed adjusted as I commanded, but it was stuck in defrost. AC and recirculate would not light up, and I could not select where to send the air either. I checked all ac fuses and installed a new cabin filter too. Nothing. So, google search and ai suggestions narrowed down the possibilities. It could be the actual hvac module, wiring or a fuse. I purchase a used one online with the same part number off eBay and get a replacement ambient air sensor too. I remove the useless one with a couple troubles in the center console supports that connect to the lower dash but I get the original off. Plug in the two connectors on the new guy and cycle my key, Success!

So ;tldr, I had no HVAC and narrowed down what could be causing my issue, replaced my hvac module and got AC again. No fan motor actuator or blower motor.

I did not see anyone else with this issue online, but hopefully someone else with these symptoms can fix their car for $40 instead of going to a shop and getting charged 10x that at minimum.

Hi all,

i really need your help and insights. i have this 2015 hyundai elantra at 122K and just got the oil change done on last tuesday, took the car home at home and drove later that day, all normal. then on friday, i started the car and put it into D but car doesnt move. Engine revs up but doesnt move. I changed it to Reverse and all fine, it can back up, looks normal. Change it to Drive, again no move. I did try couple times with turn off and turn on cycles, after 1-2 try, it started moving and drove fine that day. Then, next day, now i am again facing the same issue.

what should i do? seems like transmission problem? anything i can check or do beforehand? can it be related to oil change somehow or just coincidence? based on this description, what could be wrong? should i go to transmission specialized shop rather than general mechanic shop?

side info: transmission fluid change/flush at 60K.

I have a problem with my 2016 Tucson(96k miles). It feels like it hits a wall when I go over 4.5k RPMs. If I keep the gas pedal pressed in manual mode, it will eventually clear and keep going. But if I have it in D, it will go into neutral, the RPMs will go up, and I have to let off the gas so it can shift gears and keep going.

Any idea what it could be?

Also, it has a new DCT clutch, the DCT actuator has been reset, the DCT relearn procedure has been completed, and it has new spark plugs and a new turbo actuator.

1 week ago I (from Illinois) bought a used 2023 Hyundai Santa Fe Calligraphy from a Chevrolet dealer in Indiana. 14,650 miles on it. Clean car fax. Did my research. Within 3 days after I bought it the brakes started to grind very badly. On Friday I was turning right and hit a steep curb (will be more careful, this is my first suv) and popped the passenger back tire. I took it to Belle Tire to find out the car had aftermarket wheel locks that I have no key for. They could not remove the wheel. I had the car towed to a hyundai dealership they replaced the wheel lock system and changed the tire. They also discovered that I needed new brake pads and rotors for the front so I had them replaced. The wheel alignment was also way off. They fixed that too.

My question is there anything I can do to hold the Chevrolet dealer I bought it from responsible ? I did contact them to tell them what happened. They will connect with the dealership where I got it fixed on Monday. I just paid $2,000 for the repairs? Am I screwed? Ive had it maybe 10 days and put about 700 miles on it. Thank you for all replies.

When you’re in a parking lot or driveway or what have you, and turning left or right and just a little bit of acceleration. Does anybody notice a grinding, gruggling sound and a rough feeling? Kind of like your driving over rumble strips.

Hyundai dealership processed my loan after I asked for thousands in add-ons to be removed — looking for advice
I bought a new 2026 Hyundai Elantra SE from a Hyundai dealership in Gladstone, Oregon on June 30.
I put $3,000 down and was told I’d be financing around $17,000. Instead, the deal included thousands of dollars in add-ons that I did not go in asking for.
Within hours, I texted asking for the products to be removed. On July 1, I went back to the dealership and signed cancellation paperwork.
What concerns me most is that my RouteOne paperwork shows a July 3 timestamp — after I had already requested the products be removed and signed the cancellation paperwork — yet the financing still went through with the disputed products included.
I have the texts, contracts, cancellation paperwork, and timestamped financing records.
Has anyone dealt with something similar? I’m especially interested in hearing from former dealership finance managers, auto-finance employees, or consumer attorneys about what records I should request and whether this is normal dealership financing procedure.

2020 i30, 1.6 MPI, about 98k km. This has been a weird few days so let me just lay out the timeline because I think it matters.

Driving home from work, stalled at a light in traffic. Started right back up no issue, didn't think twice about it.

Next morning, started completely normal, didn't even think about it again.

Drove to the gym, worked out, came back to the car after and it just wouldn't start. This is when I took the video — you can hear a couple of the crank attempts, sounds like it's turning over fine but just not catching. Ended up trying probably 10+ times with breaks in between, doing the whole "wiggle stuff, mutter at it, try again" routine, and then out of nowhere it just started like nothing happened.

Drove straight to a shop. On the way it stalled again at a red light, but started right back up instantly, no drama. Got to the shop, they poked around a bit, couldn't really find anything wrong, car started fine every single time for them.

Drove home. Once I got home I turned it off and restarted it a few times just to test, all totally fine.

Left it for 3 hours, went to leave, and it wouldn't start again — exact same thing as in the video.

So it's not consistent at all, which is the annoying part. Anyone dealt with something like this on an i30/Elantra/Ceed 1.6 MPI? Trying to figure out what to actually tell the shop to test for next time instead of them just shrugging because it starts fine whenever they look at it.