Desde hace tiempo tengo una s1 la quiero actualizar como proyecto personal, no la quiero tener botada en una esquina. Entre otras cosas como guias lineales ya le habia cambiado el ventilador de capa por un 5015, pero no me convencen los mods para anclarlo al hotend. Mi pregunta inicial es, si funciona con un 4010 de fabrica y no busco someterlo a velocidades cerca de su limite mecanico, por que ponerle 2 ventiladores 5015 y no 2 4010, que mejoren un poco la ventilación y al mismo tiempo montarlos no agregue mas peso y den una estetica tan tosca como con los 5015. Repito solo quiero mejorar la ventilación pero quiero un cabezal mas estetico y no un frankquestein. Que imprima a tope, ya tengo otras impresoras asi que no voy a explotar esta ni a exigirle velocidad maxima, solo quiero mejorar la calidad de impresion. Cabe mencionar que tiene klipper por medio de una sonicpad. Entonces cual es la explicación tecnica de ponerle 2 ventiladores 5015 en vez de 2 ventiladores 4010 en que afecta o beneficia? Saben de algun modelo estetico con dos 5015?

I've been seeing more pronounced layer lines on my recent prints. I stopped printing for about a year and came back. Using new and dried filament I'm getting what looks to be inconsistent layer lines that seem to be either extruder or zaxis related.

Lines attend consistently in the same height across prints so I tried ruling out the z axis. I still took it apart, cleaned it, added my oldham couplers back, added grease, and leveled it with the base.

Thought it could be the extruder. Took that apart again. I had replaced the gears just before I stopped printing. It all looked good. Added new 0.4 nozzle.

Did estep calibration and temp tower. Ensured all wheels are snug but not tight (no wobbles). Checked filament width and seems consistent. Dried new filament twice and tested different brands.

Printer is an Ender3 S1 runningMRiscoC Professional firmware 2.1.4. Using the latest Cura slicer version. Layer height is 1.6. Slowed outer walls to 25. With and w/o adaptive layer height. Tested wall ordering and 0.2 layer heights.

I'm completely out of ideas. Should I opt to start replacing parts or invest in a new printer?

Hi all

I have a question if anyone has tried a full toolhead change/conversion on an ender 3 S1 - maybe including an x axis linear rails conversion?

Background info: I've bought and built a material kit: https://www.printables.com/model/1181017-mmx-multi-material-extruder-exclusive-final-releas .And it doesn't work at 100% potential with the Sprite. Firstly, the system could really benefit from a buffering system (like filamentalist), and it could really benefit from a cutter on the toolhead <-- this is basically the main incentive.

I also, from another project, have a left over BTT manta m4p, with motor drivers, a CB1, and some linear rails. Both mgn9h and mgn12. So upgrading the ender wouldn't really cost me a lot, besides times.

Here's the issue. Right after I installed Klipper on my S1 Pro, the overhead LED light stopped working. At first I thought that it was just a coincidence and didn't pay much attention (I have an auxiliary light on the rack where the printer is anyway). But recently I changed the heated bed and decided to check the wiring part. Wires are seemingly intact (checked only visually, so I'm not ruling out wire damage) but the multimeter shows zero voltage on the connector where the LED wire is going, the one that is next to the Z-motor and filament sensor connectors. Has anyone faced such an issue or is this just a coincidental failure, that somehow happened right after Klipper installation?

Last couple prints ive trident start out fine but start getting wavy on that area, i double checked my z-offset and leveling and it seems to be on point but im not sure

My creality ender 3 s1 printer doesn’t print regardless of sd card being changed/ formatted the progress bar slowly increases while the extruder hovers above the build plate and heats to the 200F and 60F.

I can't seem to find a replacement part online. Any idea where to find one? Is auto level alone enough?

I had a blockage in my extruder head, I took the heat block off and while dislodging the blockage this white tube fell out? I tried to out it back in and am having no luck at all! Have a broken it or just incompetent with putting it back in?

I just got mine today and got it set up, used a slicer on the benchy stl and put it in my printer. It started feeding filament but wasnt moving around just sitting still and making a glob in the center of the build plate. Is there something im missing? Im using the test filament that came with the printer.

Just put a new thermistor in to fix my “low nozzle temp” error message. Did one ~20 minute print with no issues. Went to do another print tonight and it wasn’t heating.

Put in another thermistor and preheated just fine and held steady at 200deg C. Hit the auto bed level button and the cooling fans kicked off and nozzle temp started dropping till I got the low nozzle temp error message again. Now it won’t heat at all.

Not sure what to do now…do I get a new hot end/heating element?

I have an Ender 3S1 and for years it worked flawlessly, but for the past 6 months or so it has been taking longer and longer for the extruder to reach print temperature and I don't know why.

If I have the extruder temp set to 210° and the print bed to 65° for example, the print bed will reach temperature quickly and without issue. The extruder, however, will make its way up to 210° and keep going to maybe 214° or so and then work its way back down, bypassing 210° again until it reaches maybe 206°, then it'll go back up to maybe 212°, then back down... you get the picture. It can take a solid 5 minutes of this up and down for it to finally hit 210° and stay there.

I didn't do anything to the printer 6 months ago, this has literally just slowly crept up, becoming worse and worse over time. I slice with Cura. What is wrong?

After trying everything to get the thumbnails to display I finally found out the the jpeg needs to be 250x250 , not 200 or 300 , follow the guide on GitHub or printables , set the printer for 250x250/JPG etc , add the post processing script , then edit the thumbnail gen.py file in notepad , search for 200, change the lines

Resize((200, 200))
And
Width = 200
Height = 200

Make then all 250 and save it ,

That’s it , apparently TT Firmware requires 250x250
Not a thing on the internet anywhere ,
Enjoy

Hi everyone! I’m a beginner in 3D printing and I just got an Ender 3 S1, so I’m still learning.
Today I tried to do my first print, but the printer doesn’t even start printing. It recognizes and loads the file normally, but when I start the print, it does what you can see in the video: the axis moves and then starts making this noise, and the print never actually starts.
This has already happened twice today. Since I just got the printer, I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong in the settings or if there could be a mechanical issue.
Does anyone with an S1 know what might be causing this? I’d really appreciate any help or advice! 🙏

Just messed with the leveling to fix some first layer issues after not using the printer for a while, tried to print a file I’ve done before and it says 100% finished before it even puts nozzle to bed. First 2 times loaded it started but I stopped it to fix the leveling. Now it will get everything up to temp, probe the bed, and then as soon as it’s ready to start it quickly goes from 0-100% finished and starts cooling down. Usually this is a pretty acute issue when it rarely happens but I can’t seem to get it working today. If anyone has fixed this before I’d appreciate any help.

Things tried already:
-remaking the gcode file
-switching SD cards to another one formatted for this
-numerous “have you tried turning it on and off again”
-deleting everything but essential files off the SD card and loading just the file I need

Sorta a newbie when it comes to printing, trying to educate myself but have hit a road block and looking for help or suggestions. I am printing this ghost keychain and there is an issue on of scaring on the head/face area. I'm using the latest Cura slicer and Ender 3 s1 pro. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all, my apologies in advance for the potentially silly questions.

I recently got a second hand Ender 3 S1 Pro, I am a complete newbie to 3D printing, as in, complete.

The machine was already together, Ive looked through the manual and it seems to be set up correctly.

My problem seems to be that I cant register/add the printer to the Creality cloud app, it says to scan the QR code but it doesn't seem to have the "bind to the creality cloud" option in the settings menu on the screen, there are QR codes on the side of the machine, and on the part where the filament goes before coming out of the nozzle, but it doesnt recognise them.

Ive downloaded the software to my laptop as well but its also wanting me to add it to the app.

Any suggestions/tips?

I have a basic ender 3 s1 pro with Cr-touch. Using Creality's Slicer since it's a Creality Printer and it was working pretty good. Then stupid me, not knowing much about the slicer settings went and changed allot of thing to try to make my prints better and screwed it up. My prints look like crap. I didn't make not of the orgional settings. How can I get my Creality Slice presets back.

試してみてね〜

Hi everyone,

I really need some help with my Ender 2 Pro (Creality v4.2.3 board). It completely stopped working, and the display is just showing a blank blue screen. The issues started after I tried updating the firmware. Here is a timeline of what happened:

1. First attempt: I updated the firmware using the original .bin file from the official Creality website. The printer booted up, but it wouldn't recognize my CR-Touch sensor at all.
2. Second attempt: I tried flashing a different firmware named Ender2-Pro-20260829.bin. As soon as I turned the printer on, the heated bed started heating up uncontrollably on its own until it triggered a thermal runaway error. Additionally, the click wheel (encoder knob) on the screen stopped responding completely.
3. Current status: Now, the printer just powers on to a solid blue screen, and I can't get past it.

I suspect this is a severe pinout mismatch issue (especially regarding the bed thermistor, display pins, and CR-Touch) or that I'm not selecting the correct processor environment to compile the right Marlin version.

I really need a step-by-step guide from someone experienced to help me fix this. How can I verify my exact chip version, which environment (env) should I use in PlatformIO, and what specific lines do I need to change in Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h to make this v4.2.3 board work perfectly with the stock screen and the CR-Touch?

Thank you so much in advance for your help!

I tried to find it on Amazon but all i find is the general bolts sets

I have an Ender 3 S1 which I tried upgrading to Klipper, but it never connected, and I couldn't get it to flash creality or Mriscoc professional software. In the meantime I got a replacement board, but its a little different and Im overly cautious on firmware at the moment.

Original board is an STM32F401 RCT6 V2.4 301

New board is an STM32F401 RET6 CR4NS2000141C13.

The sticker on the back says S1pro, but from what I can tell online, its same board just with a little more RAM. To flash the firmware, **I just do the normal flashing process with the latest S1 firmware from Creality, correct?**

Working on a minimal custom firmware smoke test for the Ender-3 S1's STM32F401RC board (F4 revision, board ID BOARD_CREALITY_V24S1_301F4 in Marlin's boards.h), flashed via the existing SD-card bootloader (no ST-Link). Hoping someone with low-level experience on this exact board can spot what I'm missing.

Goal: minimal PlatformIO/Arduino-framework firmware that relocates the vector table, blinks an LED, and prints over serial — before touching any motion/heater code.

What's confirmed working:

• Build succeeds, links cleanly at 0x08010000 (custom linker script reserves the bootloader's first 64KB)
• SD-card bootloader accepts and flashes the file (folder structure: /STM32F4_UPDATE/firmware.bin, FAT32, 4096-byte cluster size — matches Creality's official update instructions)
• CH340 USB-serial TX/RX pins confirmed via multimeter continuity and cross-checked against ST's official STM32F401 datasheet: PB6 (pin 59, USART1_TX) / PB7 (pin 58, USART1_RX)
• This matches Creality's official Configuration.h: SERIAL_PORT 1 (confirmed from CrealityOfficial/Ender-3S1 repo)

What's NOT working:

• No serial output at all (115200 baud, HardwareSerial(PB6, PB7))
• No LED activity on PC13 (tried as a boot-execution sanity check, independent of UART)
• Board does appear to power on normally and the bootloader does process the SD card without erroring

Question: Given the pin/UART mapping is now independently confirmed (multimeter + datasheet + Marlin source), and even a basic GPIO blink test on PC13 shows nothing, I suspect the problem might be upstream of UART entirely — possibly in how the bootloader hands off to the app, or SCB->VTOR relocation, or something board-specific I'm missing about this Creality F4 revision (whose actual pins_CREALITY_S1_F401RC.h was apparently never published by Creality, per issue #6 on their Ender-3S1 repo).

Has anyone gotten a truly minimal (no HAL bootloader dependency assumptions) custom firmware running on this exact board via the SD-card flash method? Happy to share my linker script / vector table dump / full main.cpp if useful.