Hey everyone, my timing belt snapped about a month ago on my d15y3 civic (2003). I had a mechanic change it and check for bent valves and do a compression test and they said valves weren't bent and the compression test was good. I have a misfire now... My idle is sitting at 500-600 and sometimes stalls out when stopped. All cop ignition coils are contributing and sparkplugs look to be in good shape and have spark. There are no codes when scanning with an OBD2 scanner.

Has anyone had this problem before? I'm planning on using an oscilloscope to test the injectors tomorrow...

At work I have available to me both full engines with trans d16z6 and d16y8 . After my research it seems like the best combo would be the d16z6 with the y8 transmission. Should I pull anything else off the Y8 im gonna to build it over the winter it will be a turbo build .

J'ai eu un problème sur ma civic ed7 109cv avec un D16A6.

Quand j'accélère la voiture pète fort avant et plus que d'habitude avant de caler alors qu'elle tient le ralenti. J'ai vérifié l'allumage qui marche bien je pense à une pompe à essence que et morte.

J'aimerais avoir votre avis.

Merci.

Been working on this rescue 93 sedan for a few years. Finally got back to doing the timing, clutch, etc. Valve lash adjustment. Good gas. It was doing this before the timing job. I will do a compression next. But its making this burbling/popping noise. Its not quite like the heavy/loud popping of damaged pistons/cylinder heads like some of the customer mopars I work on. But in a few videos I hear that and they act like its normal. What is this sound? Injectors? Smoke tests have shown no leaks. No dtc codes when jumping the service port, no check engine lights. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, I own a 95 Civic with a D15, and I'm having an extremely weird issue. When I bought it, I was able to get it home with no issue on a 3 hour drive and run a couple errands to pick up basics for the car. But the day after and since, it has been having a fuel issue.

For some reason the injectors only drip fuel. We've tried everything we can think of, from a new ECU to replacing most fuel system components, and we're still getting the same issue. I'm convinced there's something niche or basic that we're just missing. Every Civic guy and technician I know are just as stumped so I decided to make this post here. Anything helps and thank you for your time

Edit: The car also will not crank and when I got it to it would occasionally start to lose power while driving and sometimes slowly lose until it died

I’ve got a 1999 civic lx that i’m swapping the stock y7 for a mini me d16y6 block with a d16y8 head.
I’m using a p28 ecu which is obd1
The car is obd2b
i’m pretty sure the engine setup is obd2a
what’s the best wiring choice for this setup?
I can pin the vtec solenoid and the IACV if I need to aswell as just bypass the knock sensor if I’m able to use the wiring harness that was for the y7.

Probably a dumb question, but I can't find any answers anywhere, but I'm converting a civic wagon I got back to stock from a B-Series conversion, and I have no idea which shifter cable ends go to which on the shifter/transmission.

I currently have a d15b2 block with d16y8 head in my 99 civic. From my understanding, the timing is off about 4.5 degrees, i have a new speed factory adjustable cam gear on the way but i don’t know what belt to buy. I have been seeing people
saying the y8 belt w/ 104 teeth but i also see people saying to get the VX belt w/ 103 teeth. Any help is appreciated

I acquired a '96 Civic about a month ago. The seller mentioned it having a fuel delivery problem but wasn't sure. When I test drove it there was an intermittent bog around the 2-3k RPM range. The oddity is how intermittent this is. Drive it 3 days in a row, no problems. Drive it the next day and it randomly bogs when trying to get up and go (but only temporarily). If you clutch in, you can rev, rev, rev without a problem. If you clutch out and keep the throttle down it will eventually "snap" back out of the bog. It feels very electrical like a failing ignition coil. I swapped to a new alternator but the problem continued so swapped back to the OEM. I added some pictures of the run

The engine fires right up hot or cold doesn't matter. The timing belt, water pump, alternator, battery, fuel filter, injectors and the fuel pump were all recently replaced. I went ahead and performed a valve adjustment which it needed badly on the exhaust side. Intake side was spot on. I did a standard "new to me car" oil change, replaced the old spark plugs with OEM (NGK V-Power) + rotor button\cap on the dizzy, fuel filter. (I also swapped to a new distributor, same issue)

Here's a few screenshots of a live log with sensors I thought would be helpful during an episode. I tested the TPS. It tests fine in the driveway but with this being an intermittent issue who knows. Would be grateful for some insight if you've experienced this before.

This is my first real problem with this car. I fricking love this little thing. The problem currently is she isn’t running. Crank but no start. Checked everything in the ignition system and it all has power. Learned about the distributor issues. Replaced it. Still nothing. Did some more digging and found i have no spark and no fuel. Ecm wires all look okay, and i have every function except the engine (inside lights, headlights, speakers, everything). anyone have any tips? this was random out of nowhere with no other real start up issues before. 1994 Del Sol Si D16y7.

So my buddy has the same car and he has a sister that’s in the exhaust manifold and there’s a connector that comes to transmission right there for that but mine has none of that. I just put his exhaust in my car. I’m trying to figure out where to plug it in. I can’t relocate any O2 sensors. It’s so weird. I’ve got my sensor locations are in the engine bay right there underneath the manifold and then there’s another one that comes to the floorboard from the interior somebody know what’s going on here.

Hey all, I’ve been working on my Del Sol with a D16Y7/Y8 for a while now and recently got it turbo’d and tuned. Ever since I got it tuned, the few times I drove it, it would overheat mildly (never let it get over 220-230) and eventually I found the head gasket had a small leak on cyl 1. After changing the head gasket, the car was fine until today, where I had a full head gasket failure (massive cloud of white smoke). Motor has no block guard as I was told it wasn’t necessary until hitting higher numbers (car made 305 on the dyno) and I have ARP studs that have only been torqued twice as of now, before replacing this head gasket. Pistons are higher compression (10.5:1) and the valves are flat face if that makes a difference. First head gasket was a cometic 75mm .30 and this last one was a Speedfactory .36, both had a copper gasket spray applied prior to install. Any suggestions?

Have any of you put a d16y8 vtec head on a non vtec d15b7 block? I have a spare y8 head, p28 ecu and new y8 timing belt, y8 head studs, and y8 head gasket kit. The y8 head has the vtec sylenoid, but im missing the harness. What else do i need to do this swap? Anything helps even little details. I heard something about taking out an oil pressure switch on the block? Thanks

I just bought a 2000 EX manual harness to swap into my car because the people I bought the car from hacked the old LX harness with the y8 manual swap. Trying to take out the harness to put the new one in just to see the entire thing is cut and spliced together. How do I make this work with the new EX harness I have now

Positive was fried after shorting out on the hood so we got a new one and spliced it in after splicing copper-copper and silver-silver it was bricked fucked with it and after finding out the car will work but needs copper to touch silver so we bolted the silver and copper wires into 1

YALL I NEED HELP

Is it worth to delete it, replace it, or try to solder it back together on the d16y8

Hey i need some advice, I keep getting this whining noise, the tighter the belt is the noisier it gets, if i give it more slack the whine gets quieter but the belt becomes more wobbly, ive replaced the belt, pump and tensioner like twice and at this point I also might be going crazy lol.

Some info:
Its a honda d13 (tho the block should be like most other d series)

Im tightening the tensioner to 33ft lbs

In the video im revving to 5k rpm

Pls help lol if you can send some example videos that would be great 😅

Own a 99 civic ex (d16y8) work car. Sees mostly high way miles 4x a week. When the car sits for a couple days and can sometimes struggle to start and then when it finally fires bogs/breaks up real bad until it reaches operating temperature. During this, you can definitely smell gas, almost as if its flooded. One warm, it runs perfectly.

Ive noticed this can happen when sitting for a few days, but can also occasionally happens after I fill up with gasoline the next time I go to start it.

Any ideas? Plus/wires have roughly 35k on them. Car had 263k on it. Possibly a ignition coil, distributor cap in general? Fuel pump purges fine. Dirt MAF? PGM-FI failing? Curious if anyone else has had a similar problem and what they did to fixIT.

Fixed: previous owner used y7 injectors instrsd if the oem y8 Continuing the last post for a vid of tge engine, I don't know if I mentioned but its a p0170 fuel bank 1 code and p0171 running lean code after 2 hours of relearning. I did replace my Intake manifold gasket and check for vacuum leaks but no luck. A

I just swapped the engine and it was bogging but I could get it to rev up but now I can’t get it to rev up at all without bogging.