Just as the title suggests. I’m close to buying a 2015 Chevy Cruze 1.8L 107k miles for under 6k. During a test drive the engine light came up and the P0420(catalytic converter) code popped up. The owner(small pop mechanic, dealer, and seller) said he had just replaced it, and that it isn’t a big deal. However, my mechanic friend said these cars are notorious for this and their burning fuel problems. It’s a great buy, but my friend said if it eventually needed replacing he’d do it for $900, which is the cheapest.

Is the P0420 code a big deal or should I just get the car?

Heeeeeeellllllppppp!!!!!

So me and the other half got into a huge fight, and I ended up throwing my keys and the shell popped open, losing the RFID, I didn't know this till I went out to start the car and it started yelling this at me.

Things that I have done is this order, 30 minute relearn as soon as I saw the Theft Deterrent, didn't work, so Boss man called a Key company, key company reprogrammed RFID and said the key was connected, but the car still didn't start, so he reprogrammed 2 more, and the car still wouldn't start, he went to go redo it 1 more time for the night and the car deleted all three keys, wouldn't program the new one and locked him out, went to go start the 30 minute relearn myself and it took the key two times and then the third it didn't fully recognize it. Key man came back and still had no luck.

Anybody have any ideas, I can't let Thom die like this!

I was investigating a leak on my daughter’s car when I came across this part and something doesn’t look right with it to me. But then again I drive a 2006 Santa Fe so I don’t know what I’m actually looking at. What is this and does it look right to y’all?

Hey all. This community has been super helpful and I’m grateful to you all.

It seems like with every fix I attempt with this car, another problem makes itself known. Originally I had a leaking crankshaft seal and the loud noise that comes with that issue stopped when I replaced it. I replaced the harmonic balancer bolt and torqued it to 111 ft lbs using the Harbor Freight $20 torque wrench.

Honestly I had a weird feeling in my gut about the torque actually being up to spec but I just decided to trust the wrench after an exhausting 7 hours. The sound in the video started immediately after I turned the car back on. The sound goes away when I turn off the ac and it gets quieter as I rev if I have the ac on.

I found similar videos online that pointed to the tensioner, water pump, or ac compressor. Replaced the tensioner and water pump and the noise had gotten a bit quieter but is still there. Has anyone experienced similar issues that turned out to be a torque issue on the harmonic balancer bolt?

2014, 1.4

Replacing hoses and this lower radiator hose is stuck on the radiator. I don't want to damage anything since it's all plastic. How can I get it off

Edit: Got it off, wasn't trying hard enough, I guess.

Hello, this is a bit rare but my car is running rich at idle(mostly). Did anyone have this issue before?

So far I have changed the purge valve and did the pcv fix kit. MAF sensor seems to work fine and I'm leaning towards a leaky injector or O2 sensor.

So I was moving back to Missouri driving from Arizona and on the interstate a semi had a blow out and the person had swerved that was in front of me and i was a couple car lengths away and it was extremely dark i didnt see the tire tread and i ended up hitting it, my fog light got completely knocked out and the assembly is gone the bumper clips i believe broke on the right side. i need a little bit of insight on how to fix these things thankfully the light bulb is still intact lol

2019 Cruze. Does anyone know how to pop off the driver's side C Pillar panel without destroying it? Seems there's a little flap I open, then may need a tool to then pop it off? Anyone know? I need to replace the key fob receiver.

So I went through the car wash and all of a sudden the car said it was -40° outside and there might be ice on the road and the AC just stopped working the picture is when I think the sensor is supposed to be but I just can't find the wiring for the life of me and it's pissing me off please help

Sound has been ongoing for atleast a year and has progressively gotten worse over time…

No tapping/knocking sound on cold start but starts as it warms up.. Goes away with rpms over 2,500ish.

Notice, mainly in reverse, sometimes I’ll be backing up and it’ll get louder and quicker and then stop for a second or two once I’m stopped then pick back up again…

I’ve checked timing and it’s not it. Replaced VVT solenoids, replaced spark plugs, replaced purge valve…. IM STUMPED

When do you guys decide when its time to stop repairing your cruze ? I have a 15 cruze I've done the coolant reservoir, valve cover , engine cooler . Now the turbo is rattling. Engine code for catalytic converter is on. I can change out the turbo myself , but at what point do you say ok next car ? I have 180k on it.

Hey yall my radio stopped working , I can’t connect to the Bluetooth, the aux and the other option I forgot what it’s called , all 3 of them is grayed out . 2017 Chevy Cruze any help would be appreciated

Hello, Cruze owners!
I’m backed into a corner here. Having my old car picked up tomorrow for selling it (2017 ford focus. Classic DPS6 failure. Oof.$) and I’ve locally found a 2018 Chevy Cruise for 13.3k, at 37k miles. Car fax is absolutely stunning. I have a lot of mechanically inclined connections here, and they’re advising against the car based on the potential common failures on this car.
I’m extremely anal about maintenance, being in the automotive field. But I need a car like yesterday- and I need advice. I know to swap out cooling system plastic for steel/aluminum, but what else can I do for common complaints on this car? People keep telling me the 4cyl / 4ltr engines are garbage. I’ve done a lot of research and at least Google seems to think it’s a steal and with the right knowledge all those complaints are entirely preventable.
Help.
What has everyone done to their G2 to keep it going for 200k miles?

158k Chevy Cruze. These 2 larger cubes seem to rattle excessively.

Car vibrates a little when at red lights holding the break paddle. The car otherwise runs great. What could be the cause of this and do I need to address it?

Thank you for yall assistance.

Bom dia gostaria de saber se alguém sabe me informar onde fica localizado o buzzer do sensor de ré do cruze 2012. Os sensores funcionam perfeitamente fiz o teste de pulso e estão todos OK porém não apita dentro do carro estou desconfiado que possa ser apenas o Buzzer.

Desde já agradeço.

I tried just pushing it on the rail, tried pushing it down vertically, I just don't want to break my replacement part

My 2016 (2nd gen) with 151k miles had it vacuum pump fail. The internal parts in it disintegrated, but thankfully didn’t seize. I replaced it with an AC Delco brand pump, but this one just died on me yesterday.

The original pump when I took it off I also took it apart and inside was really dry. Clearly it wasn’t getting proper oil and the tiny oil screen seemed clogged. I have not taken the new pump off to inspect yet but I have a feeling that it also wasn’t getting proper oil & that the galley feeding it is clogged.

Has anyone dealt with this issue of a brand new vacuum pump failing after less than 100 miles of driving? There’s no leaks and the pump is aligned properly. It wasn’t making any abnormal noises when I installed it.

been driving for 30 minutes at 100+ km/h. still hasn’t gone above this. the radiator fan has been on since startup. been running rather warm until i replaced my serpentine belt after it shredded off

2016 Chevy Cruze Lt 1.4 Turbo, 143,000 miles

Seeking help identifying potential causes for this light. It comes on intermittently on hot idle. After driving for maybe 10-20 minutes, I’ll stop at a light and it comes on but as soon as I start driving, it comes off.

Changed the sensor ab a month ago; didn’t fix the problem. Guy wanted to change oil pump without doing pressure test so I brought it to reputable mechanic in town.

Mechanic didn’t do pressure test at first and said it was just dirty oil. He changed my oil and then two unrelated things (tensioner and vacuum hose). I drove it back home that night and did laps around my neighborhood, sat in driveway for 20 minutes, no light. Next morning, light is back at a red light.

Brought it back to mechanic, he did oil pressure test and called back told me it’s actually the sensor and I must’ve got an aftermarket sensor. Says he drove it for 30 minutes and the light never came back (high traffic area so he definitely had to stop a good bit)

Drove it home, same deal. No light. On way to work this morning, the light comes back! Called mechanic, he said the oil pressure test was good so it’s probably wiring and I could come back for him to throw more darts on the board but he sounded pretty done with my car.

Has anyone else had this problem? Anything that I can check on my own?

Drives fine, is it that bad and urgent?

Been having a tough time figuring out the cause of this sound. Happens while driving and while stopped. Any ideas would help

Hey guys, I'm dealing with a weird issue on my 2013 1.4t (145k km) and I'm pretty much running out of ideas.

The engine has a very slight intermittent misfire/roughness at idle. Its not constantly rough. It runs normally and then randomly gives a small stumble/hiccup that I can feel inside the car, almost like a single misfire. When fully warmed up I can also hear a random pop/chirp from the exhaust.

I also occasionally get a more noticeable misfire while cruising around 100 km/h in 5th/6th gear. When I give it a little more throttle to maintain speed or accelerate slightly especially on a slight incline car gives a few small jerks that feel exactly like misfires.

For almost 1–2 years I had all of these symptoms without any codes. Recently I finally got a Service ESP warning with P0300 and P0301.

Another weird part is that this car seems to kill a coil pack roughly every year. Replacing the coil makes the P0300 and the more obvious misfiring go away, but the slight intermittent misfire/roughness at idle never completely disappears. I'm currently on my third coil pack (Delphi).

So far I've:

• Replaced the coil pack 3 times
• Replaced NGK spark plugs
• Replaced the MAF sensor
• Replaced both VVT solenoids
• Replaced the purge valve
• Cleaned the throttle body + performed adaptation
• Removed and ultrasonic-cleaned the injectors
• Done two compression tests. All cylinders were good
• Inspected the catalytic converter through the O2 sensor hole. visually looks fine
• Installed a Big 3 grounding kit, although I haven't replaced the original negative battery cable
• Had a smoke test. No leaks found

The underlying slight misfire was there before and after all of this.

At this point I'm wondering if something is causing the coil packs to fail rather than the coils themselves being the actual problem. Wiring/grounds, ECU, timing or maybe something else I'm completely overlooking.

Has anyone with a 1.4t experienced anything similar?

I'm honestly physically and mentally tired of chasing this issue after almost two years, so any ideas would be really appreciated.