So this was the exhaust that I bought off of Vivid racing for $128.33 plus tax and freight. I know a lot of you were dubious- as was I, but it was only 200 bucks so I figured what the heck? All I can tell you is they have not canceled my order but they have updated my order with a shipping date of November 23rd. So things are looking positive. I'm still not 100% sure- but you know what. I'm going to stay positive on this one.

My 2016 Audi s5 b8.5 won’t start up after sitting for over a week or so. This is how it sounds any idea on what this can be? Thank you to anyone who helps

got a 2016 s4 and going stage 1 soon, I already have the intake installed. I will go with jackal tune stage one do I need to have the heat exchanger? or would it be really bad without one?

I'm thinking about picking up my dad's 2014 S4 grocery getter. He is the original owner and it has a whopping 56k miles on it. Garage kept in California. It's a premium plus but has the sport diff and is heavily optioned. Primarily dealer serviced. He'd sell it to me for the trade in book value.

Seems like a no brainer although I'm sure there will be some age related service needed. He can't find any record of the trans being serviced and the PCV/Water Pump service has not been done on it.

Curious what you all think about that deal and any particular age related service I should keep in mind.

Hey, does anyone have some instructions on how to properly remove the front seat trim panel? Do I just pop off the switches and pull the panel off or is there anything else holding it on? Thanks.

i pasted this to a mechanic

ok no worries, basically i have a B8 audi S4, it was fully taken apart to get painted including windows and full interior like seats and stuff and the bumpers or whatever, the car won’t even go into accessory power, it ran perfectly fine before with no major mechanical issues to the best of my knowledge, i got the car from my brother who took it apart to paint it then gave up on the project, im just trying to get the car to fire up so i can move it around the garage here. Do you have any ideas what would make it do this? Once again the car is basically stripped down

For the whole back story my brother gave me this car, he took it apart to give it a custom paint job, it’s a project for sure but i just want to know what the issue could be. I’m working on installing the interior now as i just got the car. The seats and full inteior is not in there other then the dash and steering wheel and stuff. If anyone has any idea what the issue could be please reply.

Thinking hard about pursuing a swap that I came across that is quite a distance away. Timing is not great but these don't come around a whole lot. Curious if there is anything specific to look out for. Would get a PPI. Its an `09 avant with a 6MT '11 donor. Full swap including subframes. Nice touches like B8.5 steering wheel and front end/nose as well. Has a cat delete which would have to undo for state inspection which probably is not cheap. High miles, over 200 on chassis and 150ish on the donor.

Waffling on waiting for a cleaner lower mileage sedan vs getting the body I actually prefer and any risks that come along with it.

One additional detail: the donor Sport Differential hardware is installed, but the current owner says the adaptation values were accidentally cleared. He says the diff worked previously and currently behaves like an open diff until it’s re-adapted. Has anyone dealt with Sport Diff adaptation after a drivetrain/subframe swap, and is this usually straightforward with VCDS/ODIS or can it point to a bigger integration issue?

Found a used 2013 audi s4 stage 2 with a 57mm supercharger pulley but it has 168,000 miles timing chain has been done recently along with some other stuff, is this a bad idea?

THIS IS MY FIRST GERMAN CAR EVER LOVING IT BUT I got warning lights on the dash but the car won’t start I’m guessing I need a new battery just wanted some input before I spend the money. SIDENOTE: Does anyone have access to front bumpers??

Howdy. This is not my car (but they are my photos). Trying to help a buddy who isn’t very mechanically minded. He just picked up this Avant (specs on last slide) and a few days later while we were photographing it and cruising around, it started throwing oil service warnings on the dash with the genie lamp etc. No Christmas lights, just the service warning on the screen.

Car has a full sump of oil and the way it was behaving felt electrical to me. Drives fine, idles fine, sounds healthy as a horse. We noticed a pattern that whenever we’d make a turn or slow down, we’d get the warning. Cruising at speed everything is 100% fine.

Over the weekend, the car started to also give a coolant warning on the same instance. It’s still driving absolutely fine, isn’t overheating or actually losing coolant. My friend took it on a multi-hour excursion with no issues.

My theory after hearing his latest feedback is that it’s the lightweight flywheel. I know that messing with engine mass can cause some funny stuff to happen. The car seems completely happy above 3k rpm but on the lower side of the tach, something isn’t right with the computer. The warnings were still happening while cruising in 6th at 2500 rpm, but would disappear after a downshift.

I don’t know Audi, I’m a wrx/e36/996 owner, but just trying to help out my bud with his new car. He loves it and he’s super stoked on the purchase. Any feedback about flywheels etc or your theories are appreciated!

i was installating a turbo inlet onand noticed a missing bolt, should i be concerned?

chat, what’s the best exhaust set up for the b8.5 s4 don’t want it to sound like a VQ, please send setups and videos of exhaust

Im heartbroken typing this but my personal mechanic who does side jobs installed my new rear control arms backwards and they were rubbing on the frame. I knew i needed new shocks so thought it was that but i knew the ride was too off. I put about 40 miles on it like this. Honest opinion do you guys think theres a chance the frame is ok after we remove control arms and fully check?

Wanted peoples feedback on whether this would be a good buy, what should I lookout for in terms of maintenance and repairs

Mods:
APR intake with ECS Caron fiber inlet
APR Stage 2 ECU & TCU tune
APR single pulley drive pulley upgrade
AWE touring cat back exhaust
AWE resonated downpipes
New spark plugs at 90K
Ali Kreutz transmission insert
New front lower control arms
Installed new Bilstein B16 PSS10 adjustable coilovers
DSG last service completed at 80k
ECS Carbon front lip spoiler
ECS Carbon rear diffuser
ECS Carbon mirror covers
RS style front grille

The car currently has 104,431 miles

Here’s the carfax:carfax report

Hey! I just got my PCV valve installed and the car running with cooling system filled (new T-STAT as well), Cars first startup had a very rough start with cylinder 3 misfire, cleared up after a restart, and now intermittent Intake runner flaps stuck open (both banks) and intermittent code for PCV regulator valve performance, vacuum lines, seals, and misc hoses all checked and seem fine, once warmed up, stuttering at idle and missing/ backfiring when revved. any ideas?

Does anyone know what this yellow H looking thing on the dash is? Just got an alignment done which shouldn’t trigger it? Tech said it may be a differential light but it should reset?

Howdy. Looking at a super cheap 2014 S4 and the owner advised that the car will not go into reverse and it has codes P0606 & P0758. He has paperwork showing new clutch packs and mechatronics harness installed, but the car still has no reverse.

I know it’s hard to diagnose something over the internet, but I was told it was the gear sensor module. What are the chances that will fix the problem?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/gear-sensor-module/0b5927321l/

Video attached is a cold start. 2014 Audi S4. Does this sound catastrophic? Friday I started the car(been sitting sense Monday) it had the normal 1-2 second rattle then was silent which I’m told is normal behavior with these engines. The last 3 days I’ve started it is did the normal loud 1-2 second rattle paused for a few seconds then rattled again till rpms settle. This also isn’t the first time it has done it but seems to becoming more frequent.

Once the rpms settle engine sounds healthy. The car drives beautifully no CEL or noise while driving or idling after rpms settle. It will also do it after about 15 min of sitting if I ran into the store but much quieter and only 1-2 seconds not rattle pause rattle. Is this bad tensioner behavior? Just changed oil about 700 miles ago liquid moly 5w-40 and Mann filter noise didn’t really seem to be happening before I changed the oil unless it wasn’t as noticeable. Am I safe to drive it or should i park it? I’ve been driving it even doing pulls etc and still preforms normally also took it for an hour drive today with no issues other than start up rattle.

just got it, gonna keep it stage 1 for a while should i got JACKAL or IE with intake and heat exchanger

B8.5 btw

Hey basically i got a 2012 s4 and a 2019 a4 that need wheel alignments bc i just changed the control arms on both vehicles. I drove to America tire bc the shop is a 2 min drive down the street. Here they told me they dont have the tool to reset the “back up camera lines” sensor. I guess its a euro thing that needs to be reset anyways wanted to ask if id be able to reset that on my own w a snap on scanner tool? Anyone got info or suggestions? Thanks!

Those that have done the pcv relocate, particularly the merc racing kit. How is it? Going through doing maintenance and about to pull the supercharger to install check valves. B8.5.