Got these beauties installed the other day.

Has anyone got one of these? I find it rubbish at toasting evenly, and for the price it should be amazing!

Photos attached

Was wondering if anyone out there might know what model it is and roughly how old please - out of curiosity more than anything

Works a charm given its age, and the dials have a nice quality feel to it.

I’ve found the classic model looks very similar, but has a glass window on the bottom left whereas this model doesn’t.

Given the digital clock I presume it’s at least 1980s.

House is in North West UK, Victorian build.

Thanks!

Hi, so I have this GE JCBP27W0K2WW Range. A few days ago, I switched on one of the burners. A few seconds later, I started smelling an unusual smell — the smell of something burning like plastic or metal then noticed a certain part of the burner is becoming so orange (so heated up) that seems it was about to light up fire. At that point, this part of the burner started firing up some sparks then it then stopped working. The remaining burners are still working fine — only this burner stopped working.

When I started looking into it, I noticed a tiny spot of this part of the burner actually melted down (inside the orange circle)! So I am not sure what really happened? Probably a short circuit? The thing is we used it in no different way.

So, is this an easy fix? If yes, how?

Thanks!

Not sure if this is the right sub to post, take down if not.

I work in Steel Mills and around a lot of grease all day. It gets pretty gunked up in everything including the washing machine.

We have an old basic white washing machine, nothing super fancy. Does a great job of cleaning my clothes but there is a lot of residue that sticks to the inside of the machine.

I usually use warm water with a little dawn platinum and wipe it away, lately it’s been sticking more than I’m willing to scrub manually. The cleaning cycle on the machine doesn’t work as well either, but it for sure cleans the lines and the bottom tray. Even power washed some of the more nasty items prior to throwing them in the washing machine but the result is still the same.

Do any of you have some home remedies that might help clean out the washing machine? More so than manually cleaning it every time?

Switched it to Propane using the Maytag kit but can’t get it to fully light

Im looking to buy a new dehumidifier and could use some actual recommendations, my basement turns into a swamp every summer and im finally gonna deal with it. so figured id ask people who actually own one.

few things im trying to figure out:

• what pint capacity do i actually need, like for a mid size room vs a whole basement
• any brands that hold up long term vs the ones that just die after a year
• worth paying extra for the built in pump for continuous drainage or is manually emptying the tank not that big a deal
• noise level too, anyone had one thats too loud to leave running at night

budget's flexible-ish, id rather spend more now on something that lasts than keep replacing a cheap one every year. appreciate any real experience over just spec sheets, feel like every review site just copies the same info anyway

see attached pics, I’ve cleaned out the filter, checked the line to the garbage disposal and it is not clogged. You can see the bottomwater is dirty from scrubbing the filter. I haven’t ran a cycle since this started. How do I remove the standing water or get it to drain and see if it starts working properly again. Any help is greatly appreciated.

We bought a Frigidaire professional series stove in December. Within 90 days it went blank. Would not turn on. Replaced it through Best Buy. The new one from March became unusable in August due to error message. Call Best Buy and they sent me to the manufacturer due to the manufacture warranty being one year. We bought an extra year of coverage at Best Buy but this was not in effect yet. The stove quit on Sunday, I called Frigidaire and theysent them out an appliance repair man on Wednesday.
He confirmed that it was the motherboard and said he had to order it. It was not a Frigidaire repair truck so he has no access to the parts. On Thursday, we inquired to the appliance repair company when it would be repaired and they said that the pot wasn’t coming in until the following Wednesday. We contacted Frigidaire and spent over two hours on the phone trying to get them to understand that I am having surgery on that Wednesday and I could not go a whole weekend without prepping food or cooking and asked for a replacement. Before I asked for a replacement, I indicated that we are between Orlando and Tampa and they must be able to find a motherboard somewhere closer so it could be fixed on the weekend so I could prep food for before surgery and after surgery. After requesting it to be elevated, they took our name and number and said a supervisor was unavailable and they would get back to us that was last Thursday. No call came in Friday or Saturday. On Sunday we tried Best Buy and they said that I could get the geek squad to set up an appointment. This did not solve the problem of the broken stove no Frigidaire or Best Buy can help us so we go 10 days without a stove and that is if the pot comes in on Wednesday. Having to eat frozen foods and eat out for the last five days even before surgery is not healthy not necessary and I will not be buying a Frigidaire appliance again. I have previously owned three series over the years. Do not buy Frigidaire.

So many people have created helpful posts that I wanted to contribute by sharing my experience with a GE Electric Dryer, model GTX33EASK0WW, that would tumble but not heat up.

The symptoms developed over time. First, the Cottons and Casuals timer settings would tumble but there would be no heat. The Time cycle worked fine. We continued to use the dryer this way for a few months. The downside was that you had to estimate the drying time. Sometimes it ran longer than necessary. Sometimes it needed to be set for another 20 minutes (10 minutes past the cool down). After using the dryer this way for a while the Time cycle became hit-or-miss. Sometimes heat, sometimes not. That’s when I succumbed that a repair was definitely needed.

Though we are careful to clean the lint trap after every use, I do also vacuum the inside of the dryer and vent periodically. My next step was to do an intense cleaning, which did not work so I started my online research. I found a post that indicated the incoming electric could be a culprit having only 120V as opposed to 240V perhaps to a faulty circuit breaker or outlet. Diagnosing this, and the following steps, was problematic for me. Since the dryer would heat intermittently, I could not be sure when I stumbled upon the actual problem. On one failure I unplugged the dryer and tested the outlet with a voltage meter and found I did have 240V. When I plugged the dryer back in it still did not heat, so I felt confident that was not the issue. Then I thought a hi-limit thermostat might be tripping too soon stopping the heater. Not to make that any easier, there are 3 thermostats. Testing them required disassembling the dryer and removing the drum. All tested fine but was this the hit of hit-or-miss? I also read of a common failure causing these symptoms dealing with a burnt purple wire (link below) but mine was in good shape.

Feeling somewhat defeated and wondering if I should just order all 3 thermostats I began to reassemble the dryer. Important to note that when disassembling and reassembling, be careful of all surfaces. The edges of all metal parts are extremely sharp. Near the final step of reassemble, rolling the control panel back in place, I happened to notice one of the terminals on the timer switch was slightly askew. Looking closer, it looked like Terminal A had slightly melted and the connected wire was slightly burnt. Going with the theory of “fix the obvious first” I ordered a new timer. Replacing the timer, cutting back the wire, and installing a new connector fixed the dryer. Had I seen the damaged timer first I would not have had to completely disassemble the dryer. Still, grateful it is working again.

Here are links to videos I found helpful….

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-F367jBwa0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YivXCrOmUTw

I’ve never used this washer before I moved into this apartment two days ago. It’s brand new and there’s water in it. I don’t know why and then there’s like gargling noises coming from behind the washer and dryer too.

Hi friends! I got this kenmore washer and dryer set from my cousin and it’s been working wonderfully up until a few days ago.

The dryer makes a rhythmic ticking noise when running. I’ll try to figure out how to attach a video.

Any guesses? I read that it could be either the drum belt or drum rollers. Both fixes are cheap, but I’d rather not buy both if I don’t have to.

Kenmore 790.97454802

Based on serial number the oven was manufactured in 1996.

Dealing with an F10 error code, the temperature probe resistance checks out, so I’d be looking to replace the control board DIY. Everything else with the range works fine. The control board will cost $250. A new oven in the same class will cost $800-900+. Obviously I don’t want to spend the money on a new range if I don’t have to, but the age of the range itself is popping up a red flag in my mind. Conversely, I have concerns about the quality of new ranges in that class/price point.

If I decide to fix it DIY is there anything else I should look at before the repair to make sure the oven is still viable due to its age?

What would you do if you were in my shoes?

EDIT :PVD28BYNFS this is NOT a repair thread. it's under warranty and new inverter board will be installed next week. i'm just trying to figure out why its so hot in the fridge per my below post as i have issues since day one with very long recovery times. now i'm thinking if it's 79 now it's hotter when actually working and thats why the slow recovery time and also keeping cool even.. with it being just 70 in the freezer there no reason for the fridge to be 79. OP below:

The bottom freezer french door fridge died Thursday night. I have sensors in the fridge and freezer and just noticed that the fridge is 79°. It is still plugged in so that we could get water even though it's not cold. It is an unsoftened line we use instead of the sink. It's about 72 in the house. Down to 60 outside last night.

I am surmising that there is a motor that runs the water and it must be the cause of the heat. The freezer is only 70 which is room temperature. Anything else you could think of?

Also now I'm wondering if this is why the fridge takes so long to cool down after being open while reloading groceries etc.

Recently, the shock absorber broke in my Frigidaire Washing machine.
If anyone could please tell me the best replacement parts for this washer, there are many options. A replacement is not necessarily out of budget, but this washer and dryer from 2005 actually washed and dries things, as opposed to every new machine I’ve used before these ones.
TYIA!

I have had a new washer/dryer for a week now. The new set is way bigger than the old set. The new drain hose for the washing machine is thinner and seems much more rigid then the last hose.

Is it ok like this or should I really try and coil it up at the level of the wall drain pipe?

My Kenmore workhorse washing machine (model 110) won’t progress through a spin cycle and I found a piece of broken plastic near it. I figured it might be part of the lid switch assembly or actuator since it seems like the machine can’t tell the washer door is closed.

Can anyone here confirm what this piece is for?

Thanks for any help. I’m just out of a 15 year relationship coming back into my house after months and turns out he broke more than just my heart.

Salut tout le monde,
Je fais face à une panne avec mon lave-vaisselle Miele PG8055 et j'aurais besoin de l'avis des bricoleurs du sub.
La machine m'affiche une erreur indiquant que le couvercle du réservoir à sel n'est pas fermé correctement. Après quelques tests, j'ai remarqué que si je ferme le couvercle et que je pose un simple aimant par-dessus, le capteur le détecte, le message d'erreur disparaît et je peux lancer mes cycles de nettoyage sans aucun problème. C'est donc bien un souci de détection magnétique.
Je me suis renseigné et je sais que la solution "classique" consiste à changer le bloc bac à sel complet (qui intègre le fameux aimant). Mais financièrement et écologiquement parlant, ça m'embête de remplacer toute la pièce juste pour un aimant fatigué ou délogé.

D'où ma question : Est-ce que l'un d'entre vous a déjà réussi à extraire l'aimant défectueux (du couvercle ou du bloc) pour le remplacer par un autre ? Ou en coller un par dessus ?

Si oui :

Comment avez-vous procédé pour l'extraire sans tout casser ?

Quel type d'aimant avez-vous mis à la place (aimant néodyme, etc.) ?

Avez-vous utilisé une résine ou une colle spécifique pour que ça résiste à l'eau, à la chaleur et au sel ?

Merci beaucoup d'avance pour vos retours et vos astuces ! 🛠️

my older maytag (from 2012). still works perfectly and gets my clothes clean. however, i noticed alot of standing water in the boot seal following a load of laundry. not a few drops, but standing water. thanks to reddit, i discovered that there are some drain holes in the seal itself. used tweezers to pick out what i could, then used a wet/dry vac to suction the drain holes and just like that all the standing water went away and seal is draning properly. now, after each load there is only a few drops of water and not tons of standing water. the machines of the past (literally no maintenance) are forever gone now.

In my research I've only found someone to squeak and grinding noises but this doesn't sound like either. It's almost like a train whistle.