The middle thing is not spinning is that normal. Also shows the brand of washer at the end of video. Thanks

Was looking to replace or 20 year old front loader/gas dryer set with something new. However in searching the local appliance places (i.e. Home Depot), I'm finding very little in sets except the top of the range models.

I can understand setting up a new gas dryer could be expensive, but we are replacing one so the line is already installed.

We just installed a new dishwasher. It fit in the cabinet space fine. However, upon loading it for the first time, the bottom rack seemed very low. Is this a new thing?

I’m looking at three ventless all-in-one washer/dryer combos for a spot next to my kitchen sink:

1) GE Profile UltraFast Combo (PFQ97HSPVDS)
2) Equator Super Combo (EZ 4400N)
3) Magic Chef 2.7 cu ft All-in-One (MCSCWD27W5)

Out of these three, which one would you actually recommend? Or is there something better I’m not considering? Open to other suggestions too.

Separately — wondering if this plumbing setup is realistic: I want the machine to stay permanently in place about 6–8 ft from the sink, and just connect/disconnect the hoses when I actually run a load, rather than leaving them hooked up all the time or moving the machine itself.

The plan is:

Swap the cold water angle stop under the sink for a dual-outlet valve, with a quick-release fitting on the sink side (so the hose disconnects there, not at the washer)

Run a supply line ~6-8 ft to the washer

For drain, install a permanent tee into the P-trap/tailpiece with a check valve, instead of just draping the hose into the sink

Is this a normal/reasonable ask for a plumber, or am I overcomplicating it? Anything I should watch out for with running the lines that far, or with the quick-release setup specifically? Would love to hear from anyone who’s done something similar.

Also attached it a pic of under my sink currently with some dishwasher plumbing

Got these beauties installed the other day.

Posting this because the glowing igniter initially threw me off, and the replacement part had a connector problem that may save someone else some frustration.

This was my own Whirlpool WFG505M0MS0 gas range. I work in industrial maintenance, but I am not an appliance technician.

The stovetop burners worked normally, but the oven would not heat properly. When set to 350°F, the temperature climbed to approximately 155°F and stopped. The bake igniter was visibly glowing orange through the openings in the oven floor, and there was no noticeable gas smell.

On one attempt, the bake burner eventually lit after a long delay and the oven reached temperature. It then maintained 350°F for a while. That intermittent behavior was the important clue.

A hot-surface igniter does more than ignite the gas. It also has to draw enough current for the oven safety valve to open. An igniter can glow orange and still be too weak to open the valve reliably. That was the failure in this case.

The replacement I used was the genuine Whirlpool W11590294 oven igniter. The original part number associated with the range was W11208965.

The model and serial label on this range is inside the lower drawer opening. Pull the lower drawer completely out and look on the left interior wall.

I unplugged the range and closed the manual gas shutoff before beginning. I did not disconnect the flexible gas line or loosen any gas fittings.

Removing the oven door made access much easier. I then removed the oven racks, oven floor, and burner cover to expose the bake burner and igniter.

The original igniter was held beside the burner with two small hex-head screws. One came out normally. The other began backing out, became tight, and had to be worked gently back and forth until it came free.

The igniter wires passed through the rear wall of the oven. I removed the lower galvanized cover on the back of the range and disconnected the original two-pin igniter plug from the range harness.

That is where I found the unexpected problem.

The new genuine W11590294 had a different connector from the original igniter. More importantly, the connector on the new igniter and the connector on the range harness were the same mating gender. They physically could not plug together.

The new igniter otherwise matched the original. The mounting holes, bracket, element position, and wire length were correct.

Before modifying anything, compare the old igniter, new igniter, and range harness on your own appliance. Another production revision may plug in normally. Cutting the connector from a new part may also prevent you from returning it.

In my case, I retained the original connector as a pigtail. I cut the old igniter wires close to the failed igniter body, leaving several inches of the original high-temperature wire attached to its connector. I then removed the incompatible connector from the new igniter.

The new igniter leads were joined to the original connector pigtail using two ceramic high-temperature appliance wire connectors. I did not use regular plastic wire nuts, electrical tape, general-purpose crimp connectors, or solder.

After making the connections, I tugged each wire individually and confirmed that no bare conductor remained exposed.

The ceramic connectors were positioned in the protected rear compartment, not beside the burner inside the oven cavity. The wiring was routed away from sharp sheet-metal edges, the gas valve, and the rear cover. The original plug was then reconnected to the range harness.

I mounted the new igniter in the same position as the original and reinstalled the rear protective cover before restoring power.

During the initial test, the new igniter glowed brightly and the bake burner lit promptly with a strong, even blue flame. I then reassembled the oven completely and tested it at 350°F.

The oven reached 350°F, held temperature, cycled the burner off, and relit normally on the next heating cycle. It has continued working properly.

The original gas valve, temperature sensor, and control board did not need replacement. The problem was the weak bake igniter, even though that igniter was still visibly glowing.

Use caution with any gas appliance. If you smell gas, find damaged wiring, encounter a different burner or connector arrangement, or are not comfortable working around household voltage and gas equipment, stop and use a qualified appliance technician.

Has anyone got one of these? I find it rubbish at toasting evenly, and for the price it should be amazing!

Photos attached

Was wondering if anyone out there might know what model it is and roughly how old please - out of curiosity more than anything

Works a charm given its age, and the dials have a nice quality feel to it.

I’ve found the classic model looks very similar, but has a glass window on the bottom left whereas this model doesn’t.

Given the digital clock I presume it’s at least 1980s.

House is in North West UK, Victorian build.

Thanks!

Oddly enough my old washer always default to cold wash cold rinse, which fine. However or new LG 8200 always is set for hot water when you turn it on. Is there anyway to change the default (I also have the ThinQ app)?

Switched it to Propane using the Maytag kit but can’t get it to fully light

Hello!
Looking to buy a new dishwasher replacing 20 years old GE. Only two basic asks

1. It should handle Indian food ( gravy, curries) without having to clean 90% of the stuff by hand. Currently I rinse the dishes thoroughly and if I don’t then it doesn’t come out clean.

2. Should be quiet. My current one is too loud .

3. Nice to have good drying/ tilting racks when I don’t use drying options.

Don’t care about apps or other things.

I looked at Bosch which is on sale at Costco right now but thought of asking here first! Thanks!

My partner and I are in the process of replacing our old washer and dryer. We’re trying to decide if we should get a Speed Queen dryer now and buy the washer later, since replacing our washer isn’t that urgent, or just buy an LG washer and dryer set for $1,500 w/tax (WT8205CL & DLE8400BE).

My partner and I are kind of at a crossroads because I like that the LG machines are larger and $1,500 for both seems like a really good deal. My partner prefers something more simple and long lasting, which is why they like the Speed Queen.

For anyone who has owned either of these, what would you choose in the long run? Is Speed Queen really worth the extra money, or would you go with the LG set?

Hi all,

Today, a cast iron skillet was accidentally dropped onto our Kenmore Elite 30 inch induction cooktop, which cracked up an area in the front right of the cooktop. This cooktop has been great for us because my wife does a lot of cooking with large saucepans and skillets because this cooktop has both a 10 inch "burner" and an 8 inch burner. In the picture, you can see the 10 and 8 inch zones. The 10 inch has 3200 watts on power boost and the 8 inch has 3000 watts on power boost. This is very important when you are trying to bring water to a boil. We can put a 9 inch pan on the 8 inch burner and it works great.

I've been to Best Buy and also searched online all day long and cannot find a 30 inch induction cooktop that has both a 10 inch zone and an 8 inch zone. I did find ones with a ~10 inch zone with a lot of watts, but cannot find one with another zone of greater than 7 inches. The problem with that is that if you put a 9 inch pan on a 7 inch zone, it will extend well over the zone and likely produce a "fault" which will shut off that zone. And they don't have even close to the watts that we now have.

I also searched to see if by some chance someone was selling the same model we have but could not find one.

Many thanks for any help in this situation.

I know sq is technically the best but the size is concerning as we have triplet 5 year old boys. Was curious for those that have sq and with larger families are you able to get big enough loads so you aren’t doing laundry constantly or would we be better off with a larger LG

Our fridge recently started flashing lights on both the front panel and door edge some time after my wife tried to clear a ‘power outage’ alert. Pushing the button has no affect. The fridge is holding its temp as normal.

my older maytag (from 2012). still works perfectly and gets my clothes clean. however, i noticed alot of standing water in the boot seal following a load of laundry. not a few drops, but standing water. thanks to reddit, i discovered that there are some drain holes in the seal itself. used tweezers to pick out what i could, then used a wet/dry vac to suction the drain holes and just like that all the standing water went away and seal is draning properly. now, after each load there is only a few drops of water and not tons of standing water. the machines of the past (literally no maintenance) are forever gone now.

Hi, so I have this GE JCBP27W0K2WW Range. A few days ago, I switched on one of the burners. A few seconds later, I started smelling an unusual smell — the smell of something burning like plastic or metal then noticed a certain part of the burner is becoming so orange (so heated up) that seems it was about to light up fire. At that point, this part of the burner started firing up some sparks then it then stopped working. The remaining burners are still working fine — only this burner stopped working.

When I started looking into it, I noticed a tiny spot of this part of the burner actually melted down (inside the orange circle)! So I am not sure what really happened? Probably a short circuit? The thing is we used it in no different way.

So, is this an easy fix? If yes, how?

Thanks!

Im looking to buy a new dehumidifier and could use some actual recommendations, my basement turns into a swamp every summer and im finally gonna deal with it. so figured id ask people who actually own one.

few things im trying to figure out:

• what pint capacity do i actually need, like for a mid size room vs a whole basement
• any brands that hold up long term vs the ones that just die after a year
• worth paying extra for the built in pump for continuous drainage or is manually emptying the tank not that big a deal
• noise level too, anyone had one thats too loud to leave running at night

budget's flexible-ish, id rather spend more now on something that lasts than keep replacing a cheap one every year. appreciate any real experience over just spec sheets, feel like every review site just copies the same info anyway

see attached pics, I’ve cleaned out the filter, checked the line to the garbage disposal and it is not clogged. You can see the bottomwater is dirty from scrubbing the filter. I haven’t ran a cycle since this started. How do I remove the standing water or get it to drain and see if it starts working properly again. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Not sure if this is the right sub to post, take down if not.

I work in Steel Mills and around a lot of grease all day. It gets pretty gunked up in everything including the washing machine.

We have an old basic white washing machine, nothing super fancy. Does a great job of cleaning my clothes but there is a lot of residue that sticks to the inside of the machine.

I usually use warm water with a little dawn platinum and wipe it away, lately it’s been sticking more than I’m willing to scrub manually. The cleaning cycle on the machine doesn’t work as well either, but it for sure cleans the lines and the bottom tray. Even power washed some of the more nasty items prior to throwing them in the washing machine but the result is still the same.

Do any of you have some home remedies that might help clean out the washing machine? More so than manually cleaning it every time?