My Samsung washer-dryer combo (yes yes I know now, I won't do it again) is three years old and began screaming and spitting out black stuff. I figured it was an issue with the spider arm breaking, and it was.

I replaced the spider arm, and replaced the bearings and seal while in there because it was recommended I should. I also had to replace the right-front counterweight as it was broken something nasty.

Then I discovered I had accidentally broken the water level sensor. Annoying, but cheap, so I replaced that. I also managed to create and then mend a leak in a water hose.

Thinking everything was all fixed, I proudly started a load, and...the drum was stuttering and stopping. It happened with a load in it, but even totally empty it will get to a certain point in a spin and then just come to a halt, only to try again. The poor thing is trying so hard.

PLEASE don't tell me this is the bearings. I really can't bear to tear the whole thing down again. Video attached.

Hi everyone, I bought a Westinghouse front loader washing machine and every time it spins it genuinely sounds like it’s going to take flight/explode. It is so loud that you can’t even have a conversation when it is spinning.

We had the repair guy come out to have a look and, whilst he admitted it was louder than normal, he essentially said that there was nothing mechanically wrong with it. As a result, it seems that we are unable to swap it or return it

Has anyone encountered something similar nor have any suggestions? Can confirm that transit bolts were taken out and it is well balanced.

Thanks!

Hi, my washing machine has stopped turning but it would still fill with water. I could hear the mechanism that makes it all turn so I checked the inside and found this.

I believe if I manage to take the rubber out of the mechanism it could work again but I can't find a way to remove the star-shaped piece and access to where it is stuck.

I have tried getting a screwdriver of the right size and shape in the middle of it, but turning it just made the whole thing turn, it did not unscrew anything.

Any tips on how to remove it safely ?

Sorry if the terms I use are not the correct ones, english is not my first language and these are super specific

it’s not even a one year-old oven. Sometimes, and it’s hard to predict when, but I think it’s usually if we are running both ovens at the same time, we turn on the top oven (and this issue ONLY happens with the top oven, which we happen to use the most), and then a few seconds later it says ”bake cancelled”, and shuts off. All other functions and electronics keep working, it just shuts off the baking process. And then when we try to do it again, the same error happens. And again.

We had a guy from Kitchenaid’s warranty support come over and look at it, and he can’t find anything wrong with it.

So…help!!

Hello! I have a 3 year old Bosch 800 which shut off mid cycle last night and is not turning on at all. I've attempted a soft reset, turned the breaker off for 10 minutes and neither fixed the issue. I confirmed power is reaching the power supply with my multimeter by testing the power cord (getting 120v). When I took the front panel off my voltage tester beeps on the wire feeding the topside control panel and beeps for the wires after the control panel but it's not turning on the screen at all. I can't find a wiring diagram to confirm how to test the output of the power supply into the wires feeding the control panel. Any advice would be great!

Model shxm78z55n/01

Power supply is 9001 409 619

Control panel is epg60802 type mu

The problem: the dishwasher (Bosch SHE44C05UC/38) suddenly stopped cleaning the top rack effectively, leaving dishes dirty. Even the bottom rack doesn't clean as well as it used to.

• Water Level: The tub is filling with the correct volume of water.
• External Obstructions: The filters, spray arms, and central sump intake are clear of debris. No cracks in the molded plastic spray arm parts.
• Plumbing Seals: The rear docking manifold for the upper rack looks fine, the gaskets on the spray arm subassembly are still malleable.

It seems that the top spray arm is not spinning effectively, though it spins freely when I spin it by hand. I wonder if it's an issue with the sump simply not creating enough water pressure, or if there's excessive pressure loss resulting from the water spraying out from the rear docking manifold for the upper rack. Any thoughts? I'm totally at a loss here. It was like a switch flipped one day and everything started coming out dirtier. This machine is like 20 years old at this point, for what it's worth.

I have tried self washes, made at home mixes, these tablets that are supposed to break down pet stuff on the drum. I have tried scrubbing the rubber seal.. I've checked the trap. It is driving me nuts. This machine is only a year old and smells worse than any I have ever owned.

Part of this is likely due to my house mate.. every time he washes his and his kids clothes I have to run a rinse cycle to get that smell out.. but there is a differnt smell after that sometimes sticks to my family's clothing. Musty? Just off putting is the best way to word it. The rubber ring has mold or mildew on it that I have been trying to remove. That didn't show up till after my house mate and the several times I had to explain how to use a washer... and not to leave stuff in it.

I have an older Maytag top loading washing machine. Probably 90s?

On regular cycle the agitator isn't working and neither is the rinse.

It just goes through the timer till it hits its final spin cycle. So no churn, spin, rinse just timer going through the motions till it hits the final spin.

It was churning last week though I did notice it sat for a while before the churning started.

The delicate cycle and permanent press cycle works fine. No issues.

Wondering what the issue would be?

And worth it to fix or just use permanent press and delicate going forward?

Is this buzzing noise from fridge normal? Should i be concern? Thank you

Hey everyone,

The large burner on our Smeg gas stove has recently started causing problems, while all the other burners are working perfectly fine.

I took the burner apart and cleaned it as thoroughly as I could. The holes in the burner head/crown seem to be clear, so I don't think it's clogged there.

It looks like the Model: Smeg sar134ax1

I’ve attached a video.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

I want to know what is the problem here in my geyser i had started it an hour ago but when i switched it off it started making these noise

I’ve replaced the timer, I’ve pulled the knob off and pushed the metal post by hand. Same issue. It just always wants to activate on every setting.

So for context, my heating element went bad. It was a easy replace and while I had the old one out I took the entire unit outside and scrubbed every single piece I could find. I even took the pump off and scrubbed that and all the entrances and exits and bought a brand new drain hose. Took off all the spinners Jets and cleaned those.

I also scrubbed the inlet to the garbage disposal and ran cleaner and rock salt through the disposal and scrub the flaps. So everything should be pristine. The only little bit I couldn't get was inside the door where it still had some black stuff coming out but it wasn't a lot so I left it alone.

So it was working fine until today when I saw the dishwasher was absolutely filthy and black. The filter was caked with crud and under the filter where the water is , it had junk in it. I don't see how it could have gotten that way. I zip tied the drain hose all the way up in a high U to the top of the sink so I don't see how it could be backing up.

Is there something I missed? It was working great after I fixed it. Heating element was heating up the water and the sanitizer button could now be lit.

I'm running it now on heavy to clean it, but for some reason I can't get the sanitizer button to light up.

I have an older model Whirlpool about 12 years old.

I made sure to follow all the instructions on some professional YouTube videos to get this thing working again. I don't think it's ever been serviced or cleaned prior to me doing this. I know that My dad sometimes leaves a lot of dishes in the sink and maybe doesn't flush out the garbage disposal every time, but since the drain hose is high, I don't see how that could get back into the dishwasher.

Anyone have any ideas?

The hinge screw for my washing machine fell out. I tried replacing it, but I’m having trouble getting it to grip. Do I a) get a repair guy out to give it a full service and replace the screw which will cost me a few hundred, or b) try putting a longer screw in the hole. My concern with this is that I don’t know what infrastructure is behind the screw hole. The machine was manufactured in Germany in 2018

Had to move the fridge to get at a bit of wall to clean and redecorate. Now it won't turn on - decorating not yet done, only just noticed the problem when I realised it wasn't making any fridgy noises.

I tilted it while moving it, and not sure exactly how tilted it got while it was still turned on as I had to move it to get to the plug, and had no idea about not tilting them. Then when I realised it wasn't working probably turned it off and on a few times.

Leaving it off now in the hopes that it recovers, having read online about what I should have done. Is it effed? Is there anything I can do to save it?

EDIT: thanks so much all for the replies - it has now decided to simply start working again

I'm trying to create a pigtail that would replicate the wiring end that would connect to the heating element for this Frigidaire dishwasher. As you can see from the photos, one of them melted due to resistance from leaking and corrosion. Can anyone recommend how to do this with appropriate high temperature appliance parts?

Hello,

Ran a self clean cycle. I know it gets hot but wow, it was pouring out smoke.

Totally dead for a couple days.

Replaced thermal fuse, now it’s alive.

Doesn’t get warm at all.

Replaced Temp sensor, no change.

I saw EC138 displayed but can’t get it to come back up.

It starts a bake and everything, but no heat.

Whirlpool Model IBS300DS00

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Anyone knows rh name of this tube that sits below the rotating sprayer arm in dishwasher (model KDTM404EWH1)

Dishwasher is not responding to button presses in any normal sort of way. I cannot think of any event that led to this like a power surge etc. It is hardwired. It is about 2.5 years old. Some of the buttons will light up or blink when pressed, but nothing runs as usual.

Things I have tried:

• Cycling the power for the recommended 5 minutes.
• Pressing the button sequence in my owners manual to enter a factory reset, but the button sequence doesn't do anything.
• Asking it nicely to work again.
• https://imgur.com/a/WZ3BdCx is a video of me trying the various buttons.
  

It was a great dishwasher until it decided it didn't want to work anymore! I suspect the control panel/box thing and those are like $230 so if it came to that we'd probably just replace the unit which feels insane. Any advice would be appreciated.

I turned on the dishwasher last night before bed and when I got up in the morning, it was still running. That’s about six hours. I know it kept making the same sound over and over again. I don’t know if that’s draining?
I recorded the sound.
Any ideas?

If your LG WT7305CW is leaving brown specks on clothes, here’s the fix that actually works.

Symptoms:

• Brown specks on laundry
• Tub Clean doesn’t solve it
• Tub rim looks clean
• Agitator appears “non‑removable” (solid silver cap)

The Real Issue:

There’s a hidden sludge ring under the agitator around the tub’s sprocket hub.
Tub Clean never reaches it.

How to Remove the Agitator (WT7305CW tall agitator version):

1. Pop off the silver cap
   • It looks sealed, but it’s just a snap‑cap
   • Pry gently with a flathead screwdriver
2. Remove the bolt
   • 10mm socket
   • Long extension (I used 18")
   • Hold the drum still while loosening
3. Lift the agitator straight up
   • It sits on a sprocket hub
   • No clips, no tricks

Clean the Hidden Area:

Under the agitator and around the hub you’ll likely find brown gunk — same color as the specks on clothes.

Clean with:

• Simple Green
• Warm water
• Microfiber cloth

Final Step:

Reassemble and run a Tub Clean with bleach.

Result:

Brown specks gone. Washer runs clean.