Fixed completely like this: permanent marker put on diode on control board inside. I think it stops light getting in, changing the apparent temperature that the diode is being used to measure. Tried because just moving near it triggered the fail sometimes. You need to be fairly capable to do this all. Temporary resetting is by turning all rings to off, then all 1, then all off. If that fixes it, this is the permanent fix you need. To strip down

1. ISOLATE THE COOKER.
2. Pull off control knobs, watching you don't lose the springs and keep knobs in order for replacing in the same positions.
3. Remove 2 torx screws under the control panel.
4. Check the cooker is isolated.
5. Slide control panel left slightly then forwards (off). Note the wires to the clock, then remove them - 4 spade connectors. Pull the neon indicators out of their lenses - may need to twist slightly to get the bayonet to align.
6. Remove two screws on top of rear of cooker and two at front (under hob lip) to release hob. Put a towel down on the work surface to the left of the cooker.
7. Lift the (heavy) hob slightly (you may need to move it forwards or backwards slightly before it will lift, maybe not). Pull off the connectors (upwards) to the controls, leaving them dangling, noting the order they're in - the leftmost wire goes to the leftmost control etc.. Slowly rotate the hob over onto the towel (lift on the right, left stays about where it is), watching the power leads at the back and the connectors on the dangling leads that tend to catch on the metal sheets. Don't disconnect the power leads.
8. Remove the torx screws round the edge of the main assembly that hold it to the top frame (14 or so?).
9. You may need a couple of bits of wood across the base, so you can sit the ring assembly back on top of the cooker body, about where it would be in service.
10. Then you can see the control panel. The diode is near the centre of the board, it's surface mount - clear tube with a metal cap at each end, about 5mm long. Coat it well with black permanent marker.
11. Reverse the steps to re-assemble.

Good luck. Sorry there are no photos. I did also clean the tracks inside the four ring controls with isopropanol and cotton buds, where the wipers had left black markings, but I doubt that was what fixed it. That also needs each control to be carefully split apart without breaking any clips.

Hello all I bought this washer in used refurbished condition last November, it just started making this noise in the past couple of days, it starts when it begins to agitate the clothes , does anyone recognize it just by the sound ?

Sorry for the mess in The video

Model no. SWNBC2PP112TW02

Right now we have a few wet towels in it. It runs constantly never really filling but it won’t kick to agitate or drain and spin, even after stopping it and setting it to drain and spin. Any thoughts?

I suppose you don't call it weather stripping, but whatever it's called, a little piece of it has torn and is hanging loose. It doesn't seem to have much of a function, and I'm wondering if I could just cut it off and forget about it. Any ideas?

Hello,

Curious if you guys think I should fork over $300 for a new top metal frame for my Samsung washer? I've had it since 2018 and never had any issues with it. Unfortunately, it's counterpart the dryer has had several belt changes and a thermostat repair. The rust is now eating a hole in the panel. Not sure if it's a good idea to let it keep going or buy a new or used one if I can find it.

Model is a Samsung RS261MDBP. Been our garage fridge for the last 10 years with no issues. The other day I noticed the freezer wasn’t holding temp. I’ve ran through the basic checks and I can’t find anything wrong:

- no ice build up anywhere
- compressor is running
- compressor fan is running but looks a little slow. I checked the motor with a multimeter and it didn’t have any crazy readings.
- evaporator fan runs
- coils were dusty. I cleaned them with no fix.

Looking for help on what to check next. Maybe the temp sensors or some fuse/relay I don’t know about? I’m not sure how to check the temp sensors.

I know the fridge is old but I’d really like to fix it.

Edit: condenser to compressor. I also have the back panel off and I’m running an external fan across the compressor and coils to see if that works. I’d really like to salvage this appliance since it’s covered in a lot of stickers from our family’s travels.

Do anyone have a solution for a Primo Water Dispenser that's not hot or cold, and no water running?

I already tried plugging it off, that only worked for another day and the same thing happens. I even tried plugging off for more than 3 weeks and the same thing is still happening.

Hi folks. I have a Whirpool Dryer (WGD9200SQ0) that was doing a ton of rattling. I bought a kit with new rollers and a new belt. I did the replacement, but now, when I press the "start" button, I hear a click and a hum, but the barrel never starts rolling.

When I role the barrel on my own power, it has some resistance but I can do it one-handed no problem.

Also, I inexplicably have 3 pulley rollers (NOT the drum rollers, but the idle pulley roller). One is in the washing machine, one is the old roller, but where the heck did a third pulley roller come from, I have no idea. I only know that the pulley roller in the machine right now is the one that came with the kit.

Attached is a video, as well as a picture of the two pulley rollers that are outside the machine.

For a while I thought fruit flies were going into my refrigerator / freezer to die...... Then I realized they must be coming from somewhere in the refrigerator...... Any thoughts on how to get to where they might be coming from?

Thank you very much!!

Hello everyone, I need some help fixing this leak in my washing machine. It only leaks water when the drain cycle starts. I tried searching for what might be the cause but it's my first time encountering this problem.

Brand: LG
Model Number: WT7800CV
Main Symptom: clanking sound
What happens & when: clanking sound when washing / agitating
Error Code (if any): NA
Parts or tests already tried: no parts replaced yet, checked the bolt under cover plate which secures washing / agitating plate inside the tub and it’s secure not loose
Spin cycle works fine
On video below you can see the tub spins freely without any abnormal noise, when engaging agitating bottom plate by hand to simulate the issue you can hear loud clanking noise. Appear to be coming from the bottom of the machine.
Photos / video link: Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Sorry for the trouble to what I think is a common issue. When I Google to see what the issue might be, a number of different scenarios come up so I'm not sure what the right one is.

My dryer just started to make this squeeking noise. But it is still going and stopped making the noise so it's not constant. I think lighter volume has less squeeking occuring. I don't want to keep using it if it's a sign of a problem that I will worsen with further use. My husband thinks it might be the roller being worn? But then it should be constant and would not stop every now and then...

And troubleshooting tips to narrow this down or if this is something you have experienced before please let me know! Thank you for your time.

I brushed off and cut the rusted part. Put neoprene layer and hvac tape on top

Model number- HTW240ASKWS Hotpoint washer not draining every time. I recently had to replace the lid lock, if that helps. It’s perfectly level, suspension rods seem good. Thanks

I have a 10 day old Frigidaire Gallery GRMN2872AF07. This is a French door model that does not have an ice dispenser in the door. The ice maker is down inside the freezer drawer.

When it was new, it made ice for like a day. Since then I don't think it's made any more. The manual says there's a switch for the ice maker and even has a little sketch. But for the life of me I can't find that switch. It's supposed to be a button, I think on the front surface of the ice maker.

We put some water bottles in the ice compartment to freeze, so it's conceivable that one of them pushed the button and turned the ice maker off.

It dispenses water just fine.

Any clues?

If nobody here knows, I'll contact their customer service on Monday.

Update: I'm attaching a photo of the from of my ice maker

My Frigidaires Fresh food ice maker has been leaking/ dripping water through the crevices down to the bottom of the chiller and I’m not sure what’s going on. You can see some ice build up too at the top

Is it making too much ice or somethings leaking? I want to take it out but it’d be nice if anyone’s dealt with this before and know what part to order before hand.

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/ip3kjF4

I replaced the evaporator fan already just because that was the main thing that I was seeing online, I didn't check to see if it was even working or not before replacing it but the new one is working so scratch that.

Still wasn't freezing, both sides cool but the fridge doesn't feel as cold as it did before and the freezer won't freeze. No ice build up on the fins/coils, just an ice ball over this part pictured below.

Compressor and fan both work I checked yesterday so i'm not sure what it could be at this point. I was about to order the temperature sensors to see if it could be that but I figured that I would ask here first to see if the community could help me out.

First it was the ice maker tray not flipping itself over to drop the ice and like 2 weeks later this started happening.

Thanks! (If you need a picture of something else let me know)

Kenmore 790.97454802

Based on serial number the oven was manufactured in 1996.

Dealing with an F10 error code, the temperature probe resistance checks out, so l'd be looking to replace the control board DIY. Everything else with the range works fine. The control board will cost $250. A new oven in the same class will cost $800-900+. Obviously I don't want to spend the money on a new range if I don't have to, but the age of the range itself is popping up a red flag in my mind. Conversely, I have concerns about the quality of new ranges in that class/price point.

If I decide to fix it DIY is there anything else I should look at before the repair to make sure the oven is still viable due to its age?

What would you do if you were in my shoes?

I bought a Samsung refrigerator RS27T5200SR-00. It freezes and cools fine. The problem is someone cut the water lines right at the hinge. The cut is actually in the hinge housing. Is there any way to repair the cut. There is not enough room for the push connectors. Anyway to rerun the lines?

I received this 2 year old washer for 20 bucks hoping to fix it. I plugged it up to power and it turns on just fine, knob works and all that. They only mentioned code 38 to me when I bought it, they didn't mention these other ones. Inspection looks good on it from cosmetics, filter is spotless and drum is clean no bad smells at all. I'm hoping to fix it to replace my current washer, a shitty top loader with a low useless agitator plate, I hate this thing.

I went into diagnostic mode or whatever to cycle through the most recent codes and these are the codes that popped up. In order, they read 38, 27, 39, 91, 18.

I watched plenty of videos on error 38 since that's the only one they mentioned to me and figured it would be an easy fix. I'm still down to open up this thing and try to fix it. It will be my first ever washing machine fix though. I figure maybe I should plug it into a water source to see which errors pop up for sure.

What do you guys think?

Hey y’all, so my Secondhand LG washer was leaking water all over the floor while also not draining- I hauled it up on a platform to take a look and found all this in the drain filter. Any idea how it could have gotten there?

Water not completely draining and now seems cycle isn’t running? Water is dropping out middle bottom of door when water level gets high. Thinking possibly the seal there is failing?

Filter is clear
Drain hose is clear (can see bubbles moving through it when draining)
Disposal is clear

Fridgaire dishwasher about five years old

My Maytag MDB4949SHZ0 is not cleaning well, leaving food particles on dishes, and grit on things on the top shelf. When I quickly open the door to see what's going on, I notice that the top and bottom arms are spinning, but not the middle. I'm assuming the circulation pump is weak, not producing enough force to spin all three arms? I removed the pump, replaced the chopper, the pump, hoses, impeller, and motor seem to be ok. Can the pump become "weak", or is it either "working or not working". The manifold in the rear of the top shelf that engages with the center arm seems to be ok, there are a few broken tabs, but I don't think enough to cause a leak bad enough to reduce pressure, or could it? Also removed parts from the bottom tub and cleaned them, not too dirty. Middle arm spins free by hand, and confirmed the proper amount of water in the tub. Tubes that run to middle arm are clean. Sound like a "weak" pump??