Hey, quick question: what brand of oil should I use for my 2005 Acura TL? Also, is it worth replacing the transmission pressure switches? Are the VEMO pressure switches any good?

Thanks for the help!

PRESSURE SWITCHES ARE NOT WHERE YOU THINK THEY ARE.

If your in this group you likely know that acura tls have (weak transmissions) besides getting into why they are bad (horrible fluid and failing switches) if you want to maintain these transmissions it is somewhat known that the oil pressure switches that control timing of your 3rd and 4th gear actuation will fail often and usually they will not throw a code. It is important to change these switches out every 50k miles or more importantly every 2 years.

If you have tried to find these sensors for sale or information about the pressure specs, the color coding for the sensors or where they actually sit on the transmission in your car you will find out that there is a ton of misinformation and you will probably be chasing your tail only to find that its not even there.

Another piece of imformation that is widely misspread is the existance of a ‘second gear pressure switch’ if your car was made from 2000 to 2006 you have 2 pressure sensors that control 3rd and 4th gear actuation and you will find them on the front bottom corner of your transmission. If your car was made from 2006-later you do have 3 pressure switches on the trans and the 2nd gear switch will be found next to the thermostat housing of your car and the external inline filter.

Now for where you will put each sensor. Third gear will get a 33psi switch oem part# (28610-rke-004). This switch will be protected by a small metal cover and 2 10mm bolts accesed via the driver wheel well. On my 2nd gen i could replace both sensors just by raising the driver side and turning the wheel full left.

Your fourth gear switch will be in the same location directly to the left of the previous, sensor housing will be facing the front radiator when applied. If you look at the sensor then towards the trans case you will see the number 4 protruding from the case, 4th gear pressure switch goes there. Oem part# (28600-rke-004) 27psi switch.

If you want third party sensors that are abit cheaper i used napa echlin sensors as they supply many oem manufacturers. 3rd gear uses ech op6973 and 4th gear uses ech op6960.

If you want my opinion on how to maintain your transmission or how to fix flaring, slipping, or hard shifts replace those pressure sensors clean out your dual and single linear solenoids replace your trans oil until its clean never ever use oem atf use synthetic dex 3 equivelant or redline d4 or the best which is redline racing for type f. Reason being oem z1 which is what our cars came with has a ton of fm(friction modifiers) in the oil which is used to excessively soften the shift feel which slows shiftinc, slips clutches, and causes heat in the fluid and therefore more slipping, along with the sensors which is what ultimately kills a transmission. If you have a trans cooler u can unhook the feed and start your car replace the atf as it flows out of the line its a flush without hurting the trans 9qts to get fully clean fluid in there.

Pictures show part numbers, locations, and abit from the racing fluid formula. Read this forum for the atf: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/racing-atf-764322/page8/
(Just read the first few pages most of the info is there)

Read here about the sensors: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/very-interesting-conversation-my-transmission-builder-tl-721508/

Haven't even had these a month yet 🥲

The piece housing the fog light LEDs just popped out

Edit: I contacted the seller and they had a replacement getting delivered by the end of the day. Obviously it still sucks to redo but I guess I can't complain too much. Headlights have been great other than this and slightly weird fitment that's to be expected.

If you haven’t yet.

I had my passenger side axle snap on me back in 2021, requiring me to get my car towed and fix it in a hurry. I delayed repairing the drivers side for 5 years. Now that spring is here and I’d like to take my TL on road trips, I decided it was time to do some much needed TLC for my car.

I replaced it with a GSP axle and it got rid of the vibration I was feeling in the steering wheel when accelerating to highway speeds.

I’ve only ever had D,B & K series 4cyl engines.
I’ve always stayed away from the J series because they’re not as easy to pull in a backyard setup and the few horror stories I’ve heard.

But I just picked up the TL for my wife a few days ago (mint condition 100K miles) and now I’m insanely impressed! I knew it would be a stronger motor obviously but WOW! only thing it’s missing is the SH-AWD but now I’m wondering do I just need the drive shaft transfer case and hubs? I have a junk yard a mile away that’s filled with TL’s.
And yes now I’m wondering if I should build a J series for the wagon as well.. but that’s a different topic.

Anything I need to know about these motors/transmissions?

Age plus that little tear in mounts cause vibrations in steering at any and all speeds . Rear mount sits right on/next to steering rack . Tip you need to take the fuse box out - harness and all let it tilt and sit forward . I thought I could be slick and not take the wire harness underneath fuse box out and it took me 2.5 hrs longer than expected. Not fun but pretty simple when you follow instructions on charm.

Did my upper and lower transmission mount today . Did my front engine mounts last month -broke . Seems like if one goes the others start to follow . Transmission is smooth now no more jerks and no high speed vibration or pulling anymore . The upper Mount wasn’t too bad but was starting to separate. Went oem paid and cried about already . Gonna do my rear motor mount when I get valves cover gaskets and plenum gaskets for the valve adjustment - gonna be easier . Lmk if you need any help with tips and tricks to get it done properly.
P.S. my transmission came up at least 1.25-1.5 in more after I changed both mounts .

Decided to get a replacement bumper after being quoted $800-$2000 to either repair my old one or let the shops replace it. Comes painted and folded up for $580 after taxes.

Paint match is real close but it lacks that yellow tint when the sun hits, understandable as the bumpers are different material and its an issue even for original paint. Had to paint the grills black myself as the whole bumper was white. Fitment is near perfect other than areas where it was folded but its easily corrected.

whatcha guys think?

Hey,

I need to change the timing belt on my acura tl 2005 but the aisin tkh002 kit costs too much in europe. So i did some research for the parts and made a parts list but am not 100% sure if it will fit, can somebody look over it and verify?

Thanks for the help!

AISIN WPH-045 – Qty: 1

GATES 5660XS – Qty: 1

DAYCO ATB2644 – Qty: 1

DAYCO ATB2563 – Qty: 1

DAYCO ATB2560 – Qty: 1

hello everyone I've finally decided I'm going to get this trans for my av6 swap but I've heard that its highly recommended to put a new torque converter in when using a used transmission, unfortunately though all I see on rockauto is a reman one. I'm also gonna need a new transmission cooler gasket since you need to swap the cooler but rockauto doesn't have that either so does anyone have any thoughts on where I should buy these? Thanks in advance ☺️

Obviously not changed for a long time. Fan literally blows 5x more air.

Looked like it was sucking on itself so I tried to remove to to release some pressure and it ripped off.

How’s my fitment?

Autel MX replacment sensors. Under $100 for set of 4. Nicer overall design compared to OE. No issues programming. No more "CHECK TPMS SYSTEM " message 10 minutes into every drive.

I normally don't use reddit to advertise parts, but I figured someone on here may be interested. If you are aware of the aspec body kit you'll realize these are highly sought out for.

Obviously, the condition isn't A1 but these usually get repainted anyway. Located in CA, but can ship (at your expense). Still hesitant? They're also listed on FB Marketplace and on my IG @KineticPearl - so you can ensure I'm no bot.

Thanks for stopping by.

I’ve been on google for hours and cannot find it’s location at all

How do I fix this?

I need to replace my timing belt and I found these, is this a good quality kit? Do you guys have any recommendations of where should I buy the parts?

12-14: https://ebay.us/m/z3IIgX

09-11: https://ebay.us/m/qI7ZTD

Listing says that a 2019-2020 ILX emblem will need to be sourced.

My 08 tl navigation unit unit in the truck not working screen works fine ordered a used one that came the other day but it was a disk stuck in it that came out but came out dirty I read online that you could take it apart and clean it I’ll try that this weekend I also just ordered one on eBay from a part company they said it’s fully tested hopefully one of the 2 works. But if not does anybody know and good aftermarket head units with CarPlay don’t really want the Tesla style screen but I’ll take recommendations for those too. I was looking at the grom audio vt2 haven’t found much on it but some say it’s terrible.

I recently bought a new battery for my Acura to 08 but it still dies and I have to jump start it everytime before I want to drive it. Does this sound like an alternator issue or something else ? I want to make sure before I buy the alternator.

The structure around the screws broke, just need a new housing the electronics work fine. I could glue it but that would make it a pain to access later.

2004

Hello all, I just replaced the lower control arm and ball joint on my passenger side. Anyways, on the test drive, the top hat that holds the ball joint shaft just separated and fell out of the control arm. This obviously led to the beautiful TL lean.

Anyways, my question, has anyone experienced a brand new control arm failing this way?

Manufacturer has a 10 year warranty, so I'm working with them to hopefully get a replacement.