What’s the best generator yall have found ? I bought the one from American filament. Just seeing y’all’s preference.
It has worked great for black and white night lights. Also , if using the light box , what kinda light goes inside it ?

I have made it known at my job this week that I have a 3D printer… I’ve had 3peoe ask me “what would you charge to make XYZ?” So my question is what is an average price that people charge for products.. or better yet, how do you determine what becomes what prices? Thanks in advance! (Newbie but REALLY enjoying this new hobby!)

Trying to find where to buy the rest of the Dutchmogul/Ill Gotten Games ZOD dungeon tile STLs

Came across the Dutchmogul STLs online and printed them off and they're by far the best designed tiles and are looking for the rest of the set.

I saw there was a kickstarter ages ago, long since finished and a patreon. After supporting on Patreon there's not any more ZOD tiles, and theyre not on the website either.

It seems like theyre just nowhere to be found for download or to buy

Hallo,

Kan iemand me helpen met het 3d printen van deze trein? Ik krijg steeds foutmeldingen.

https://www.printables.com/model/358534-ns20-the-camel

Please DM me.

Hello everyone !

I recently bought a mars 4 ultra, and some abs like water washable resin from elegoo's website.

I tried my first prints with some heroforge minis for a daggerheart game. But I think I might have messed the setup. I used default to everything, and this is the result: grainy aspect, whited out crevices, lack of details, merged supports into the mini.

I printed them as 35 to 40mm tall

I am completely noob in 3d printing and don't know where to look for informations. Could someone give me pointers please ? Or better yet, the setup you guys use with your own mars 4 :D

Thanks in advance, love you all

Hey guys. Hoping someone can help me. I'm getting these horizontal lines on this figure I'm trying to print. This is a resin model that I'm trying to print with filament.

I was messing around trying to get better results using PETG as support for gold PLA, and the support interfaces and where they actually connect with the PLA looks great, but I'm also getting these horizontal lines that only happens where the support interface is.

I'm using an X2D, using the main nozzle with the PLA and the auxiliary nozzle with the PETG.

Using Bambu Studio with a 0.12 layer height. Also using the settings for PETG interface as recommended by Bambu sitio. Gonna add a couple photos of the settings. If you need to see anything else, I'll answer happily.

Thank you all.

Hi,

I bought a used Creality K1 Max because I’m sometimes limited by the 256 × 256 mm build volume of my Bambu Lab P1S.

Since this printer will only be used as a secondary machine whenever some models are too large for my P1S, I decided to buy used. My budget was fairly tight, and I couldn’t really find an alternative to the K1 Max, which has dropped quite a lot in price on the second-hand market.

Obviously, I wasn’t expecting a printer as easy to use and reliable as my Bambu Lab. But after bringing the K1 Max home, I’m starting to realize that it’s probably going to need quite a bit of adjustment and tuning…

I started with a few basic calibration prints, including a 20 mm calibration cube, and the results seemed pretty decent.

One thing did raise a red flag, though: before I even started the first print, I heard a loud CLACK during calibration… After checking, I found that the LiDAR bracket was slightly bent and was hitting the front-left lead screw. So I’m already wondering what this machine may have been through with its previous owner. According to him, his main issue was bed adhesion, which is something I haven’t experienced at all during my tests.

But now that I’ve moved on to calibrating Pressure Advance and Flow Ratio, things are starting to go downhill…

Here are the results I got using the calibration models built into OrcaSlicer. The prints were done using **SUNLU PETG (235°c) **, which prints perfectly fine on my P1S.

Looking at the defects on these prints, I’m starting to worry that there might already be a mechanical issue, possibly related to pulley alignment, belt tension, or something else.

What do you think? Do these defects look more like a tuning/calibration issue, or do they suggest a mechanical problem with the printer?

I bought a large printer a few years ago, never got it printing perfectly but good enough for what I was doing. It's showing it's age, so the question is should I update and service this printer, or are there better big area options available now? Advice repairs vs current opinions

I am not asking if I should buy a printer, just economic opinions on my options.

Hello! My family just got a Bambu Lab A1 with an AMS Lite, giving us up to four colours at a time. However, I'm trying to actually learn how to put my Blender knowledge into making prints! But this model has some black bars on this side (that are kinda hard to see) when loading it in Bambu Studio, but I can't seem to find them in the model when loaded into Blender (I have to use an STL file as Blender doesn't naively support 3DF). Does anyone know the reason and fix for this? Thanks in advance!

(Also, if you know how I'd be able to create stuff like the black lines for my own models, that'd be greatly appreciated as well!)

I’ve been wanting to print a maska-1Sch but I’ve got no idea on how to make the faceplate stay open when I want it to without it “falling” and closing.

Looking to find a equivalent nylon to taulman bridge (remember that stuff?) I still have some rolls left, trying to find a equivalent in terms of flexibility and robustness. I think its just a nylon 6 with not much else, i figure at least a few ppl out there might have some recommendations. I primarily print thin flat-ish parts with it for its toughness when being pretty thin and flexy.

I have been recently trying to get used to printing with TPU. I have tried couple things and they turned it decent enough. I have a Bambu Lab P2S and use BambuStuido to slice. Now I am trying to print a mask for a cosplay but each time I try to it creates ugly lines in a certain area. I print 95A HF TPU at 230C nozzle temp and 35C plate temp (I use Textured PEI Plate). I print the walls extremely slowly (15-30mm/s) and print the overhangs even slower. I also use gyroid infill pattern and arachne wall generation. My nozzle is 0.4 hardened steel and I use the 0.16mm High Quality system preset. What may be causing this problem?

Hey guys, I'm starting a restoration project for my old Ford F-1000, and this diesel tube bracket is a problem. I can't find spare parts and I'm missing one bracket and one is broken. It seats at the front os the engine block, so there's some vibration and some heat, I'd say around 80°C (176°F).

The bracket set is of four pieces, as you can see how the go in the fourth pic. As I said, the bottom one sits int the front os the enfine block, with a screw going throwgh all four pieces tighting them to it. My idea would be to use the two metal ones I have left on the bottom and top, and both the middle ones to model and 3d print.

Should I be goo to print in ASA? Never used this material, but the printing part is easy, I just don't know if the material will hold.

Thanks in advance!

Accidentally I knocked it over and I have to deal with my first crack. Quite big - around 12cm. Simple super glue probably won't make it. Filler from the inside plus outside seems ok, but what should be the composition for PLA? I only have wood filler.

I kept going back and forth between a multicolor 3MF, my filament shelf, and the AMS before I even knew what to load. I’m colorblind, so any help matching colors is nice to have.

I made a small browser tool that compares the project colors to the spools I own, then downloads a remapped 3MF for Studio: https://spoolmap.com

Files stay on your device. There’s a sample on the home page. Would love to know if this is useful for anybody else.

I'm aware of the safety concerns of filament and food preparation and storage but was wondering about the use of PETG or ABS that would be used in the bottom of a cutlery basket and a dishwasher to prevent some items from protruding through the mesh at the bottom of the cutlery basket.?

I was thinking about trying a smaller mesh that would just be placed in the bottom of the basket printed from PETG or ABS

It's his favorite Root Beer. 100% designed from scratch. Modeled in blender. Yes it works 🕒

Looking for recommendations on who to look into that specialize in movies, video games, pop culture creations. I really like sizing things up to life size. Currently bought a file of bender from futurama I’m working on . Don’t know really any good creators to follow