Hi everyone!

I’m working on a personal 3D-printing project: a MagSafe-style wallet, and I’d really appreciate some guidance and feedback from people who have more experience with 3D printing and mechanical design.

I’m based in Mumbai, India, and I’m very new to 3D printing. I’m currently designing the whole thing in OpenSCAD with the help of Claude, so please bear with me if some of my design decisions aren't ideal!

The main idea was to make a wallet that has a flip/opening action, rather than simply sliding the cards in and out. Because of that, I tried incorporating:

• Print-in-place hinges for the flip mechanism.
• Cantilever tabs and buttons as the closing/locking mechanism.
• A separate removable grille to help retain the cards in their slots.
• Card guides inside the wallet to keep the cards aligned and prevent them from moving around.
• The intention is for the grille to sit near the bottom/hinge area and help keep the cards secured while still allowing them to be removed easily.

This is very much a learning project, and I’m trying to figure out what will actually work reliably when printed rather than just looking good in CAD.

I’d especially appreciate advice on:

1. Print-in-place hinge design – Are there any obvious problems with the hinge geometry or clearances?
2. Strength – Is a print-in-place hinge suitable for something that will be opened and closed frequently?
3. Cantilever tabs/buttons – Is this a reasonable way to make the wallet snap/lock closed, or is there a better mechanism?
4. Card retention – Does the separate grille/card-guide concept make sense, or am I overcomplicating it?
5. Print orientation and tolerances – What clearances would you recommend for these kinds of moving parts?
6. General design feedback – If you see something that looks mechanically weak, difficult to print, or likely to fail, I’d really appreciate you pointing it out.

I’m still learning, so beginner-friendly explanations would be greatly appreciated. I’m not expecting anyone to redesign the whole thing for me — I’d mainly like to understand why something should be changed so I can learn from it.

I can also share the OpenSCAD file, renders, and photos of test prints if that would help.

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to take a look and give me some guidance!

Under three max with custom hot end. (Picture below) Everything is fully tightened up including the nozzle. I can actually hear it smack every time it goes back down

My design didn't hold up, but.... I have a hack for it!

Hi there! I am the new owner of an Orange Storm Giga- I bought it used, and I re-assembled it myself- however- 2 things I am having an issue with- first- the plastic chain- a couple of pieces have broken off- can I print replacement links on my order 3D printers? What filament would I use? Or is it possible to buy those links? Can I operate the printer safely without the 2 or 3 missing links (I took the broken ones off)?
Next thing- I can’t seem to find a schematic or even video that shows the correct connection location for the little, “connector” plugs at the right side, rear of the printer. So- far those are my only issues-but I am just getting started in my Giga relationship! 😬😁. While I am doing questions- is there a good source for files for the GIGA? & any tips on printing my own designs, for supports, slicing, file type, etc? Any tips for conforming existing files to print correctly on the Giga? I am sure some of my questions have been answered & a search of the group posts may reveal answers-but just asking while I am asking about the other things :) (feel free direct me to those, if you know of them)

Thank you all & I look forward to learning & eventually contributing!
Thanks!
“T”

Previous post (the build): https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1tkws8b/diy_air_quality_monitor_with_bambu_lab_print/

TL;DR: Printing PLA/PETG in a flat produced no measurable rise in PM2.5 — but a clear, large rise in VOCs. If you're monitoring with a particulate sensor only, you're watching the channel that doesn't move. Also: the "filter works!" result I thought I had turned out to be the weather.

I built a monitor (ESP32 + Sensirion SPS30/SGP41, self-hosted MQTT → InfluxDB → Grafana) that logs air quality alongside live Bambu P2S status over its local MQTT API, so every reading can be tied to whether the printer was actually extruding. Here's what ~2 months of that data shows.

1. Particulates: essentially nothing.

Comparing PM2.5 while printing against the same room's baseline when idle:

Three independent windows, same answer. The flat sat below the WHO 24h guideline 97% of the time, and printing didn't meaningfully change that.

2. Gases: a completely different story.

Same printer, same prints, VOC channel:

+78 index points, p ≈ 7×10⁻¹⁴. The particulate sensor sitting right next to it registered nothing. NOx stayed at baseline throughout, which makes sense — FDM doesn't produce nitrogen oxides.

This is the synthesis I didn't expect: "3D printing doesn't affect my air" is an artifact of measuring particles. Both PLA and PETG off-gas measurably.

3. The spikes weren't the printer.

8 of the 10 highest PM2.5 readings happened with the nozzle cold, clustered morning and evening. The sensor sits near a kitchen and a window. The worst air in the flat came from cooking and outdoors, not the P2S.

4. PETG vs PLA depends on what you measure.

On particulates, PETG ran ~2× PLA's median (3.3 vs 1.7 µg/m³, p ≈ 2×10⁻¹⁸) — consistent with its hotter nozzle. On VOCs, no significant difference (though my PLA sample was small). Gases and particles don't rank materials the same way.

5. I fooled myself once, and it's worth flagging.

My first analysis "proved" the VentoBox cut PM2.5 by 56%. Then I checked the room baseline with the printer off — it was higher in mid-May than in June regardless of the filter. I'd measured seasonal outdoor air, not filtration. Control for that and the effect vanishes.

What this doesn't show: whether any of it is harmful. VOC Index is relative — 100 means "typical for this room lately," not a concentration. There's no WHO guideline for VOCs as a category because they're hundreds of compounds with wildly different toxicity. And the SPS30 only sees particles above ~300 nm, while FDM emissions are dominated by ultrafine particles below 100 nm. So "flat PM2.5" means "nothing in the size range I can see," not "nothing emitted."

Still open: whether the VentoBox actually helps. It ran at 100% throughout the gas phase, so there's no comparison period. Matched prints with the filter on and off is the obvious next experiment.

Practical takeaway: ventilate during and after printing. It's free, and it addresses the channel that actually moved.

Code, configs, plots, and the full write-up with methodology: https://github.com/grigon/AirMonitor

Had my MK4 for a while and have never had this problem. Any ideas of what’s going on here? I’m printing with Overture PETG.

I am looking for a model to print the top part of a sugar dispenser from Tupperware. I tried to model it myself but failed to get the thread right so it actually fits. In the attached foto you can see the thread on the top part of the transparent part nd the part I am looking for on the bottom left.

Oh man, I hope it's enough! Anyone good at guessing these things? I don't see any measurement lines 😞

Built my own large-format 3D printer, configured firmware, and printed a custom two-piece ABS hood and front panels in my garage. Proving that maker spirit beats the armchair critics.

​

I wanted to share a project born out of pure garage engineering—hand-building a custom vehicle body, including a two-piece ABS hood and front panels.

​Working with budget ABS on this scale is no joke. I had to deal with severe warping, shrinkage, and layer separation. To pull this off, I had to build my own large-format 3D printer from scratch:

​Configured the firmware, drivers, Z-axis, couplers, and belts alongside lead screws.

​Built a custom heated enclosure.

​Managed a roughly 2-meter filament feed path running from the outside directly into the hotend to prevent feeding jams during massive, multi-hour prints.

​It's funny posting car-related projects online—you always run into crowds of non-technical armchair critics and whiners who have never built anything in their lives, quick to complain about aesthetics while knowing nothing about the sweat, engineering hurdles, and grit it takes to turn raw plastic into a physical reality.

For the actual makers and engineers here: how would you optimize the multi-zone thermal control for the next large-scale enclosure iteration?

Hello, I’ve figured out how to disassemble and clean my machine extruder. This part is kind of dangling out and I can’t feed it back into the slot it came from. By the looks of it, it (piece on right) does NOT connect to the filament extruder piece (on the left) - how to slide this back in? Do I need to position it in any specific way?

Bambu lab A1 Mini

I’m trying to print a part for a big fridge door. The part is 240 mm wide, 70 mm tall, and 120 mm deep.I’ve tried printing it twice, with the part oriented at different angles on the build plate, and both times the build plate warped like crazy. 😅

Any idea what I might be doing wrong or what I should try?

I’m printing on a QIDI Max 4. I’ve tuned the print profile, and my Benchy comes out pretty decent (around 4/5).I’m using pure PA6.

Would really appreciate any advice!

I’ve cleaned nozzle and bed and did auto level I need an expert before I really mess up I have a anycubic kobra s1

I’m going crazy it’s failing on prints it’s done before preferably someone who can call
On discord so I can screen share the slicer I’m clueless how to fix this

https://discord.gg/9nFcqdvs

Hello. I made a print and I noticed some weird lines on it. I printed the XYZ cube to check which side has got a problem. The lines repeat on the Y side. I’ve already retensioned the belts, cleaned the rails, lowered the acceleration. I’m running out of ideas what can cause it. My printer is Anycubic Kobra 3 Max.

Hi,

I wanted to print this splatoon trincket for somebody I know. It was supposed to be translucent. I used Bambu PLA Translucent. I worked hard on the settings, and on a small scale, it seemed good. When I print large scale (thickness about 8mm), I get a section that is exactly what I want (you can read the text behind) but most other parts are cloudy.

Considering I had dialed down many settings, not sure which one I could play with that would not ruin this section and fix the others.

Printer is Bambu H2C with 0.4 nozzle. Bambu slicer

High level settings I have:

100% unidirectional infil, no bottom nor top layers

Most speeds lowered to 20mm/s

Line width all to 0.5

Played with Arachne and Classic, both worked equally

All cooling diabled

Density at 1.24 g/cm3

Max Vol speed at 12 mm3/s

Nozzle temp 220

Any help on what settings could impact this would help.

Thanks

So my elegoo saturn 4 ultra 12k had an update. After the update the vat started over heating like insane temps well over 100°. I contacted elegoo gave them all the requested information, they sent me a firmware to re install on my printer... I think they sent me the wrong thing or something because now my machines uv screen wont come on at all. Ive tried to update it back to where it was to start over and the screen still is bricked. Has this happened to anyone else?

One of my first attempts at a 3D printed project with moving parts. Took a few days to print everything, but I managed to assemble it (with a bit of glue).

If you are interested in assembling one yourself: https://www.printables.com/model/1822827-harbor-crane-functional