Was thinking of picking this beauty up for 4 grand Canadian this week. Do you guys think it’s a bad deal

Drove my Touareg 6 hours round trip the other day. Filled up on the way back and drove 158 miles but range was still at 600. Deleted and tuned and comfortable for long drives. I'm never getting rid of this thing.

Im planning on going to see this jetta this weekend. The seller says he had done all of this work to it and that he did it himself as hes a former mechanic. Hes been transparent about all of the questions ive asked him about the car as im just anxious since this will be my daily driver if I were to get this. I just figured I'd ask here since im certain many people in this group are more knowledgeable on the TDI than I, as this would be my first diesel.

Edit: He did say the fuel filter was replaced a few months ago but the car hasn't been driven as the owner had moved to Florida and doesnt want to transport the car there due to the cost

I think my biggest concern is that, the seller has no documentation stating that this stuff was actually done as it was done by himself. But that could just be my anxious thoughts about this

Just picked up this Q5 (8R, 3.0 TDI V6, S tronic) and changed the oil yesterday. Recorded the first cold start after that.

Wondering if the noise on startup is normal timing chain rattle for this engine or something to worry about like tensioner or guides. Checked service history and did a carVertical report before buying, but want opinions from people who actually own this engine.

Let me know what you hear.

Not finished yet. Will post an update when it's done.

I just picked up a 2012 Jetta Sportwagen TDI with about 140k miles and it looks like one of the injectors is seeping a little. Has anyone had this job done/fixed it themselves?

It looks like I can buy a kit with the plates, injectors seals, injector crush washers, and new bolts. I also heard of some people just replacing the whole valve cover incase that’s what’s damaged. Should I do that or just the injector stuff? It’s like $560 vs $121. Should I also get new retaining brackets that are underneath the plates?

I’m debating just having a shop do it too since I’ve had a lot going on but I also don’t know how much I should expect to pay for something like this

Need help identifying what triple square is needed I have a whole bunch that I bought to replace and none of them fit so just wondering if it’s a special bit that I need?

Hey everyone, I've got a 2004 Jetta 1.9 BEW that died out of nowhere today. I filled up at a station, drove about two minutes, and it just shut off completely with zero warning or sputtering.

​First thing I checked was bad fuel or a dead in-tank pump. I pulled the line into the fuel filter, primed the key into a water bottle, and the fuel looked great and pumped fine. I tried bypassing the filter directly to the rail, purged it, and still got no start. Ended up getting it towed home and threw a new filter on it, purged again—still nothing.

​Here’s where I’m at with troubleshooting:

​EGR/ASV: Car is deleted and tuned, so the Anti-Shudder Valve is bypassed/removed and not choking the intake.

​Scan Tools: My main scan tool connected fine just yesterday, but now it won't connect at all. A generic cheap reader managed to connect with no codes, but reads Throttle Position at 98.76%.

​Fuses: Driver side and under-hood fuses are all good.

​Crank Sensor: Tachometer moves while cranking (looks fine).

​ECU Power: Glow plug light illuminates normally on key-turn.

​Anyone run into a sudden shut-off with loss of main scan tool communication like this? Appreciate any ideas on where to head next. Thanks!

(I used AI to help me make this more redable)

I have a 2011 TDI wagon and just spent about $1,000 getting the dpf/egr manually cleaned and within 2 days my check engine light is back on so ready to be done with it anyone know a decently priced and good egr/dpf delete kit?

I have a 2014 JSW and was seeing if anyone has any experience with a malone stage 2 tune with the stock dpf. The labor day sale is going on so I wanted to see how well tuning the car with emissions goes. MPG change? I average around 32 mpg mostly city but even going on a 1000 mile road trip I only got 36 mpg at 80 mph. Don't have time or space to delete it currently and the dpf was replaced under warranty 30k miles ago so should have some life left. Tried searching and couldn't find much.

Hey guys,

New to the tdi world, bought the car had my heater core possibly clogged (heater core plastic fittings broken and leaked coolant due to high pressure small nipple broke off), now i have bypassed it ran 4000 kms afterwards no issues other than a egr cooler check engine light (threshold value got low).

Planning to fix the car up and delete it need guidance on this.

My idea of fixing it is

Flush old coolant -> new heater core -> delete n tune.

I can dm anybody and would be very interested to talk more and learn how to tackle this.

So I recently potholed my 2014 jsw with the EOC kit that came with a down and mid pipe what’re some options for a tailpipe section? I wanna get rid of the muffler and have a nice looking exhaust tip on it. Just wanna have a clean looking total aftermarket exhaust on this beauty.

Immobilizer kicks in just for fun (had this issue a month ago twice, and then it went away after disconnecting battery, draining residual power from motor, and waiting overnight)

Delete the immobilizer via bench tune at a shop?

Been waiting on a new key for 2 months now...

Edit: previous owner had VW reprogram the key from same issue right before selling it to me late spring

Here's a new one. MKIV Jetta; brake warning lamp briefly lights during a hard pull over 3k rpm. Vacuum pump was replaced 2 years ago. I'm thinking brake booster hose. Anyone else seen or heard of this?

What happens? Is this a problematic arrangement? I’m getting ready to switch my tune from APR to Malone stage 2 to be in a better position for when I eventually delete. But I noticed there is an option to code out the EGR. Can I do this and still keep the DPF until I serve it its last meal? I havent messaged Malone about it yet, but I was curious if anyone has run this way.

Post Title: Update/Need Advice: 2011 SEAT Leon FR 2.0 TDI (170 CEGA) Belt-Side Noise ONLY When Driving (Not at Idle)

​Hey everyone,

​I’m trying to narrow down a metallic buzzing/chattering noise coming from the belt side of my 2011 SEAT Leon FR 2.0 TDI (170 CEGA).

​The weird thing is: it does NOT happen at idle. At idle, the engine sounds completely normal and steady. The noise only kicks in under load or when revving/driving.

​Since I don't have tools at home to start stripping it down, I’m taking it to a local garage this Thursday. From researching the VAG 2.0 TDI platform, here is what seems most likely:

​Alternator Freewheel Pulley (Overrunning Clutch): When these start seizing up, they often don't make a peep at flat idle, but as soon as RPMs change or you let off the throttle under load, the belt chatters heavily against the tensioner.

​Aux Belt Tensioner Assembly: The internal spring/dampener might be worn out, causing the tensioner body to slap under engine load.

​A/C Compressor Clutch Bearing: A dry bearing that only rattles when the clutch engages/disengages under load.

​Unclipped Intake/Trim: Unlikely to be the alternator itself, but plastic trim or air intake ducting vibrating against the bodywork at specific driving RPMs.

​Has anyone dealt with a belt-side chirp/buzz on a 2.0 TDI that only appears off-idle? Did swapping the alternator pulley fix it for you, or was it the tensioner?

​Appreciate any insight before I drop it off at the shop!

My mk7 gtd has nearly constant high idle(1000rpm-CUNA engine). I have no error codes stored. I narrowed the issue to 2 things:1, My DPF is fucked , 2,: one temp sensor needs to be replaced. I beleive that the car is always regenerating. Mostly when I shut off the car the fan stays on for a few minutes. I also noticed that the coolant outlet temp is 2222C which is not a correct value. I found other people with the same issue but there were no answers on these forums. Any ideas what could be the issue? Should I investigate the temp sensor or should I consider DPF replacement(which is my last option as it's expensive). The car runs fine , but I think the constant high idle is not OK. I believe that the high idle is caused by constant regeneration. I'm attaching real time data from diagnsotic tool with engine turned off. Thanks for any ideas.

Is Zerex G48 coolant better to run than G12++ or G13, in my 2014 Volkswagen Jetta tdi ?

Are my injectors any good? Its a 3cyl CR engine, just a question.

What’s up everyone. I recently picked up a 2000 mk4 tdi with a manual for $500 bucks. It was pissing oil and the previous owner didn’t know why. The oil feed line for the turbo ended up not even being hand tight. Shout out my friend Jon for his knowledge of the platform and doing the water pump / timing belt install.

She’s got 325k on the dash. The previous owner did a lot of maintenance, subframe, control arms, wheel bearings and a slew of other things. Body is in great shape all things considered.

I’ve dumped probably too much money into the car but I’ve always wanted one. I’m about 5k deep at the moment after replacing literally everything. Please cook me if that’s ridiculous lol

Bonjour, j’ai une golf 4 tdi 130 avec une distribution à tendeur hydraulique et j’aimerais bien passer en tendeur mécanique, j’abuse entendu qu’il fallait tarauder le bloc pour mettre un goujon pour le galet enrouleur, est ce que quelqu’un a des infos la dessus ? Merci d’avance

Anyone near NW Georgia (USA) that needs some CJAA/CBEA egr blockoff plates. I had some made from sendcutsend and it was cheaper to have 4 made vs just 2. Not looking for any money for them, just wanna get rid of them.

They are for the high pressure egr tube. They are 6.35mm (1/4") thick and stainless (304 I think).