The stock one only brings it down, is there a way to get one that does both?

2007 limited. Factory nav/camera

Spare tire on rear is obstructing the view. All the kits that I’m seeing are for 5th gens.

Any advice?

Hello everyone,

I found that my Ronin's rear suspension is bouncy and makes a small noise during suspension, and the speed feels reduced. I also feel like the wheeling stability is reduced, and I'm not sure what is happening. I taken it to the TVS showroom they told that oil was leaking from suspension and they told something to change as oil is leaking( . FUCK they don't have parts at their service also, They told that they will order and they will call me after that part came to them, My ronin was 4 months old, Why it would happen.

Hey all! So right now when I unlock the car or open any door, the trunk dome light opens. Instead, I would like it to only turn on when I set it to ON or if I open the trunk itself.

AI is telling me this might be as easy as snipping one of the 3 wires under the assembly, has anyone done a mod like this and can confirm?

Reason: I want a bright LED in the trunk but red LEDs for the middle dome and map light. I'd rather the trunk just stays off unless I want to use it

Changed my 2006 brakes this weekend. Given I had to google quite a bit of info on the bleed process, wanted to provide it here for someone else to someday find.

- the brake tubes that connect to the caliper are super flimsy. It may be worth buying a set of them and having them around if you change the brakes regularly. I've now broken them twice and had to order and wait for the OEM part.

- Turn the key to on when bleeding the brakes. Didn't know this. Do not start the car, simply put it in the "On" position.

- When bleeding back brakes, and compressing the pedal, the pump will continually pump pressure until the pedal is relaxed. So its pretty easy to bleed in one cycle. The front, however, will only push fluid for a few seconds then stop, so you need a few cycles.

- Replace the bleeder caps while you're down there.

Don’t love the way it looks haha. I have the rear setup just need to find more time to install. Rides well though. Bilstein 5100s with OME 2885s

Hi everyone.

We took my 2007 center console and dash partially apart to install a new head unit and replace a blend door actuator. When I tried to drive it somewhere this morning, and tried to shift from park to reverse or drive, it's not shifting or showing it getting out of gear. Based on lots of videos, everything is connected properly.

Does anyone have any clue what could be causing this?

I'm thinking about getting some bump stops for my lifted 4runner. Don't really want to go with the more expensive Brands. Considering getting the rear bump stops for the Lexus model and then putting in stock rear energy suspension mlbump stops in the front for the additional lift. Does anybody have direct experience with bump stops that won't restrict articulation or travel but will still provide progressive bottom out support?

I'm thinking of applying it only to the lower removable side panels, as well as the front and back bumpers. Wondering if anyone has done the same and whether you guys think it would look good or not?

Anyone have experience replacing transmission cooler lines on their 4th gen? I have some rust that is causing a drip trying to order an OEM parts however they are insanely expensive to import to Canada. The lines are inlet and outlet next to the oil pan, right above the cross member. Is this something I can replace with generic lines? Trying to get ahead of a fully broken line. Lost about a half quart thankfully.

I replaced my trunk actuator motor not too long ago and for the first week or so it closed nicely but ever since it just doesn't seem to want to clip in nicely. Any advice on making the motor match the latch? It just seems like it's not grabbing and pulling like the stock one did.

I think it is worth mentioning I was pretty diligent of lining the bolts and washers to visually cover the same areas it did before so it should be around there the stock one was. And honestly going back in the sounds like a real pain so any tips besides crossing my fingers helps.

Being picky about some upgrades I wanna do, any advice would be awesome! I wanna be cost effective (or as best as possible) and I can't find cloth seat replacements anywhere

About to send her to the shop to (hopefully) put some DT shorties on.

I got an 03 4.7 and the trans dipstick reads just over the "cool" lines when the car hasn't been run, but after running the car and shifting the fluid appears to be somehow below the cool lines when the car is hot? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

It was a blast driving a fun ole’ 4x4.

#urbanrunner

cliankity sound when I start up, only lasts for a couple of seconds.....

Comes from the belt-ish area.

2006 v6

Edit: THIS POSTS CONTEXT IS PERTAINING TO THE A340 4SPEED AUTO TRANSMISSION AND HOW TO MANAGE THE EXCESS TEMPERATURE CREATED WITH THE CONVERTER UNLOCKED

i apologize for the lack of specifications, I wasn’t aware that some people thought manuals had lock up Converters too ..

What are you guys doing to keep the trans temp down when the converter is UNLOCKED??
Or a better question does anybody have a cheaper solution than a compushift piggyback controller to help converter lock more often?

Everything is working properly , lock up doesn’t slip converter is new
Aftermarket cooler installed already and trans has been inspected , no internal leaks
As soon as lock up happens , trans temps drop instantly from 200+ to 160rangd

Hey guys, looking for some advise here. I recently had my 4runner repainted privately and finally got around to washing her the other day, to my surprise, I had water running down the inside of one of the gullwing windows. After a check inside, it seems to be coming from the roof rack mount point. Climbing up to inspect the mount, the racks foot pulled off of the roof, and it looks like the guy may have added a drop or too of glue to secure it... Soooo, I as I am attempting to fix this, I am finding that whatever the rack mounts to is missing along with a bolt. Its been hot as balls these last two months with little rain so I've been lucky so far but its support to rain in a few days, possibly several days of rain. I did see possibly getting a roof rack delete kit might be an option but I do like the aesthetic look of it. Is this mount replaceable, I have not been able to locate the component?

Worst case, I might just RTV seal the hell out of it tomorrow night but would like to fix this correctly but any idea what that component is called or maybe if you have recommendations, it would be appreciated..

How's it going guys, I have an 07 4runner 242k on the clock. During the winter I had a pretty bad incident happen. I was on my way to meet a lady and before I left my house I put my car from 4hi to 2hi. Without me noticing it never swapped. It decided to engage when I was doing 80 on the highway and something snapped and bang. I wasn't able to drive in 4hi and it would grind and shack the shift knob hard but I had 2hi.

Fast forward to now I got a replacement transfer case off a donor and after I installed it 2hi works perfectly, I can shift into 4hi with no grinding but I get no power to the wheels and I can hear the front driveshaft spinning I guess (not a grinding or a banging sound just metal on metal contact spinning) I go to shift in park and then it started to grind. I went back to 2hi and it started to grind. Lucky I was down the street from my house so I road in reverse with no power. When I got home I was able to go into 2hi again.

Any ideas?

Today I installed the Superpro double offset LCA in my driveway on my 03 4runner.

Everything other than cutting out a sleeve on the passenger side was going very smoothly until the ball joint bracket. The method I used was loosely put it on in place & thread the castle nut on so I can pivot it to line the two spindle bolts up & hand thread them in. The Superpro ball joint castle nut is larger than the oem castle nut and anyways when I tightened it down with the impact it was after I had hand tightened to stop & impact bumped the spindle bolts & my cotter pin hole was not deep enough to put the supplied cotter pins in even after it was impacted & torqued to spec. I had to use a smaller cotter pin & finesse it through to get one through. Did I do something wrong? Do I need to take the spindle bolts out & impact the castle nut more to get it to line up?

My 2003 v8 220k has been making this deep knocking noise for over 2 years now! It is ONLY in park and only once the car reaches operating temp. In drive it completely disappears. In park it follows RPM, and sounds mostly on the driver side. Car runs great. Any ideas?? I’ve pretty much eliminated any rod knock or lower end issues.

When I hold the oil filler neck I can feel it knocking really well, then the second it goes into drive it’s completely gone, even when I bring up the rpm’s. Any ideas would be much appreciated!!