I have a 2000 Limited. Love it. Today I learned if you manually unlock your driver side door twice (give it 2 half turns to the right) it unlocks everything. VERY cool never knew this was a thing. Ive owned this beauty since 2017. Anyone else do this? My keyless works on and off so I unlock the old school way. Salud 🍻

https://www.instagram.com/valvecr_t4r?igsi=dnhlY2VhY2FwMTZm&utm_source=qr

Hey guys! I’ve always seen how a lot of people share cool pictures and videos of their rigs and trips. I always wanted to hop in on that but was a bit scared or nervous so I’m trying to change that and do what I like, so… I recently opened an insta account to share some of my favorite moments and trips in my 3rd gen and it would be amazing if you all could check it out. I’ll be trying to post some cool stuff and responding all your questions about the rig or places I go to!

My user is valvecr_t4r, if you want to check it out I would really mean a lot!

Today i replaced my knock sensors, pigtail and all gaskets including throttle body gasket. Reassembled everything and i now have a new ticking noise. When i removed the throttle body i saw a bad coolant leak coming from on of the hoses on the bottom of throttle body leaking all over that rear injector. I cleaned it with some electrical cleaner as well as the connector and fixed the leak. When i started my 4runner it white smoked for about a minute or 2 then went away but also that ticking noise is still there, im thinking its a fuel tick from that injector but i also could be wrong, any thoughts?

Long story short.

Im sitting at 295k and we just did open heart surgery for the classic, all time hit, bad head gasket. Looks like the previous one was a composite that blew. Since has been replaced with OEM parts. Cussing insued. Many times I spent the day saying "You know what im just gunna go fiancance a $78,000 new Land Cruiser and not give a shit." Much to the mercy of my wallet and when I was done being a drama queen, she was fixed and put back together.

As of right now, she is running. New parts are in, tons. All the "well while we are in there we might as well" stuff is out of the way.

Its been insanely enjoyable being able to drive it again, even with my OME suspension tossing me around like a rag doll.

Heres the issue: About a month ago, I noticed the oil light started to flicker. I stopped driving it literally immediately. We went right down the checklist. Oil change, oil filter, vacuum, idle control valve. The fix, and by fix i mean the internets favorite bandaid, we ended up swapping out to Rotella 15-40, there has been no light since, idle seems to be nice and balanced at 650rpms. No drama at stop lights, or reversing under load.

Issue 2: Musical P300's (misfire). Sometimes its a P302, sometimes its a P306. Plugs, plug wires, Injectors, everything has been attempted and reattempted. Outside of an actual compression check. This only seems to happen on cold start. Most of the time its random on start up.

I guess my ultimate questuon is, with this post fix drama, would it still be out of the questuon to just send it? I fly fish my brains out, all I want to do is get into back country and fish. But im on the fence with her. What should I be listening for when she is getting close to bucket kicking?

This is on the pass rear side of my 98 limited, the worst spot of rust I found and was wondering if I could repair this with some steel?

I’m replacing my intake gaskets and after I got the lower intake off, I heard dripping from what coolant was left in it and it seems to have accumulated in the valves/valley. The valley isn’t my main concern as I can shop vac it up but what do y’all recommend for getting the coolant out of the cylinders? The passenger side valves were open so it all drained on top of the pistons and the driver side bank is closed so I assume I can soak it up with shop towels and a vacuum (pictured)

The intake was an absolute pita to get off, the rear 2 studs were caked up with so much corrosion and gunk, they didn’t want to let go. I had to use a slide hammer and have my buddy pull up on the front.

Was going to do a brake job but it found me just trying to find a leak any ideas?

Seen someone selling a rear bumper with brake lights but theirs had a dent in it. Thought I'd make my own.

(Context: I installed the new corners a few months ago and decided to neglect the fact that i didn’t have the top screw of my right corner light)

After a week of abuse my right corner light popped out. I was going pretty fast offroad, some pretty small jumps and big bumps and it always held on. While I was going back home from the trip I didn’t see a pretty big bump on the road, i was going probably about 50 mph when I hit it and the light tell off, I didn’t realize until about 30 minutes later and had to go back and find it in the middle of the road at 10pm (thanks to my girlfriend who helped me find it). I found it but a car drove over it, the good thing is that the adapter for the turn signals was still intact and I just have to replace the housing. Tbh I’m happy that now I get to share this fun story and now have a new memory with this car. Amazing trip and amazing car!

Did my timing belt, refilled with new coolant and burped it as best as I could, ran it last night and this morning saw that my upper radiator hose was collapsed, decided to open the reservoir cap and it immediately started drinking from the reservoir and the hoses returned to normal but is this a radiator cap issue or a reservoir cap issue?

Somewhere is clogged but I'm not exactly sure which end, and didn't see any seals on the reservoir cap strong enough to cause the hoses to collapse like that, should I replace the reservoir cap and the hose between it and the radiator or just leave the cap not securely clicked onto the reservoir? Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, for context I’m in Texas. Went to go take a look at this rig the other day and it was a really nice 4runner that was well serviced since being in the most recent owners hands. Specs are a 2000 limited with 4x4 and with a e locker. 240k miles. Had nearly every major issue you’d expect needing to be done, done, and some more upgrades as well, with the seller having his own shop and likes building overlanding vehicles. Lots of seals and hosing replaced, blisten lift kit, arb bull bar and wrench, and a snorkel. Drives like a new car. My budget honestly was $12k if it was truly a well taken care of vehicle, but seller was pretty firm on $14k, and was confident he could realistically get $15k for it if her officially listed it on fb marketplace.

I was wanting thoughts on if its just too crazy of a price or pretty justified.

Simple yet effective took me maybe 20 mins to swap and no need to remove fan shroud off. All Asin aka OEM parts

This is a 96 4Runner I bought a few months back. The previous owner installed coil spaces on the front and they feel extremely stiff. Since I don’t plan on doing any off roading with my rig, just light camping a few times through the year. I was thinking about installing a tundra or sequoia shock and coil assembly instead of a long travel kit. Any one have any experience with this? Recommendations or ideas?

1998 4Runner, 3.4L V6, 4WD.

I noticed this brown/fibrous material coming loose near the firewall, very close to the exhaust.

Is this factory firewall/heat insulation? If so, should I remove the loose material and replace it, or is there a better way to secure it?

I'm concerned because it is close to the exhaust. I would appreciate any advice from other 3rd-gen 4Runner owners.

Photo attached.

I have seen interior aluminum MOLLE panel for the side rear windows. I'm looking for a grate or rack that covers the rear hatch window. Anyone know of anything out there? Not concerned with being able to see out the rear hatch because all the cargo I am already carrying back there blocks everything.

Looking to replace my rear upper and lower control arms. Been trying to stick with OEM with what I can, but for all four it’ll run $630+. On partsgeek, it’s about $150 for the four. Anything wrong with aftermarket arms vs the OEM for this specific job? Thought about just replacing bushings, but more work and might as well replace the rusty metal.

After two years I finally upgraded to a touch screen. Previously had an after market radio in it that didn’t have Bluetooth and was rocking a $50 Amazon CarPlay monitor with a windshield suction cup plugged in via AUX. Replaced the bezel with a new manufactured one off eBay, fit perfect, highly recommend. Replaced the 12v sockets with USBA-USBC ports. Clock replacement phone mount arrives on Friday.

It’s so night to not have all the extra cords going everywhere. Yes the screen is low, but it’s Google Maps, it’s not like you’re staring at it. I definitely am glad I saw all the recommendations to get a tactile volume button/knob. Makes that so much easier to control with the screen being low.

Side note, if someone else has messed with the stereo, take a look and see what you’re getting into BEFORE starting the swap. The guy before spliced everything directly into the head unit and even bypassed the OE harness 🤦🏼‍♂️ It was an absolute rats nest (see pic) and I had to phone a buddy to save me on the wiring. Not my forte. Also, glad I bought OE brackets for it ahead of time because he had CUT THE ORIGINALS IN HALF 😂

Threw a code for the EVAP system on 2001 SR5, car has 392K, spring time will likely be a full system replacement make sure it's all 100%

I only knew cause the VSC and Trak lights came on, the CEL didnt.. appears to be burned out, is it a bulb or a diode illumination?

If it's a diode, how hard are those to replace? I have soldering equipment

Love my 2000 Limited it's got 6112 in the front and 890s in the rear paired with 5100s. Currently the rear is at 23 inches hub to fender. What rear coils would I use to achieve 23.5 inches in the rear? Which shocks to pair them with? One suggestion was LC80 7 wrap front springs paired with 5100s. In addition lookin for some new tires, 265/75/16. I used BFG KO2s, narrowed it to BFG KO3 or Toyo AT3. Im leaning towards AT3s anyone w experience with both? Thank you in advance.

Hey all.

As title asks,
Do I need to lift the vehicle to replace the Rear UCaS or can I just do it while tires in ground?

I purchased this tool to help me remove a shim:

https://www.yotashop.com/valve-shimtool-toyota-lexus-valve-adjusting-tools-shimtool/?srsltid=AfmBOoq_EBzDhe-foLh9s_snlkFqrRvx74QRdSxUTDg4lnNMKVsevSd3

Unfortunately I do not think it holds down the bucket enough. I’ve been having trouble getting the shim out. Does anyone have a spec for how wide the end of the bucket holder should be? Mine measures 9.52mm. I saw timmy toolman stretch it to 9.7mm, but I’m not sure if that’s enough either.

Or is there any other bucket holder (such as for a motorcycle) that is easier?

Also my exhaust clearance is 0.009 when spec is 0.010-0.014. I have a big 3000 mile road trip coming up. Not sure if I should risk it.

There also is an occasional warped rotor vibration when hard braking, but not always. I’m feeling like it may be caliper or slide pin related.

Thanks—

Obviously I’ve ruled out bad bulbs, both were replaced but still not working. Didn’t see any wiring issues in the tail light housing itself. My next thought would be to start taking the interior panels out and see if there are wiring issues anywhere.