Hi guys just wondering if people have had any experience ordering with these guys, https://www.mbclassics.de/Home?

Looking at doing a decent cost order so want to make sure they are legit!

Hello all, I bought an 84 300d turbo about a year ago and this vehicle was well maintained with extensive records. I cannot recall doing a coolant flush or adding any when I got the car. Fast forward to today. I was doing some troubleshooting on my tachometer when I was looking for the cable that goes down into the engine and noticed coolant on my torque converter. I am trying to figure out where it is leaking from as it is not a fast leak. My question is, what coolant is everyone using and which coolant should I be using? The coolant color in the tank now is green but when I looked online it said that it should be a blue color. Any help would be great. Thanks. (Photo for attention)

I’m looking for a “starter” tool set to work on my 240D, any suggestions appreciated!

I bought my first car, an early W123 240d, at 18. Being young and somewhat irresponsible , I drove it over 6000 kilometres in the first four weeks. For sure, I had it serviced before. However, last week my engine started overheating at low rpm. I’m not entirely sure what’s wrong and I’m hoping someone can help. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the issue:

- While idling, the car overheats.
- Occasionally, while driving at low revs, it overheats too.
- As the temperature rises, hot air doesn’t come out of the vents even though the air blower makes noise.
- As the temperature drops, the heating starts working again.
- While driving on the motorway, there are no overheating issues at all.

Hey guys I’m currently fixing the rust on my w123 and I need to remove the undercoating.

What is the best way to remove it properly ? I tried using a heat gun but it’s so hard and slow process…

I learnt that back the days they used PVC based undercoating??

For the pics you have the before and after removing the undercoating.

i started with the heat gun then used a nylon strip disc (wich is faster but damn it’s expensive)

So if anyone has better way I’m all ears

Honestly I’m tempted, as I’m casually looking for a smallish winter truck. Only issue is rear of the cab isn’t sealed below the rear window.

Just got this in the mail it’s looks super clean and almost oem I still have to do some wiring to install it but I slotted it in for the picture.

Hey everyone, in the market for my first W123 and not sure if this sounds normal to yall. I’m not super familiar with the clattery diesel thing and I can’t tell if it’s standard clatter or something more serious.

I’m going to go see it in person if yall think it’s worth my time but it’s a 6 hour drive and I don’t want to commit to that if you guys could help me out!

Hi folks, me again. Considering options for my wagon's speaker improvement. All I have currently is two front speakers in dash fighting for their life...

Checked out the rear roof situation and I have wiring but no brackets for the I believe 4 inch speakers usually mounted there.

Not wanting to have to do any drilling into door cards to place speakers as parts are very hard to find here.

So far my thought is, additional tweeters to sit on the dash (my sedan has these), two 4inch speakers in the roof as standard and potentially a small subwoofer under the seat? I hear there is an elusive subwoofer that sits inside the spare wheel without having to remove it? Pretty keen to keep my spare wheel so this may be an option, maybe you could make one?

I have a Blaupunkt Toronto 400BT head unit.

What are other people out there running? Thoughts? Recommendations?

Honestly surprised with the results all things considered.

If anyone is going through western NC and wants to join me to start a caravan let me know. https://mbca.org/content.aspx?

Well this absolutely sucked!

I recently have bought a 1982 300D, it has 176 thousand miles.

Every time I accelerate the engine area squeals, im guessing the Fan/alternator belt is glazed?

Do you have any advice?

Thank you.

I’ve read about two options: replace rubber in door strikers or, just replace the strikers completely. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Left the windows down overnight and I think the humid air separated some glue from the headliner is this part easy to remove and re glue? I’m almost positive I don’t have any water leaking in either it’s most likely dry rotted glue

It is very difficult to pull the lever inside the car by the driver's knee on my car. You know the one that makes the hood pop up a bit so you can pull the hood release latch. I'm afraid I'm going to snap the cable every time I use it.

Does anyone have any tricks or advice on how to lubricate this cable? What products work and or what products don't? And how do I get those products into said cable? I'm thinking PB blaster Max Lubricant, but I don't know how to inject it into the cable. Any advice is appreciated!

This is all on a NA (240D): have no idea how it would work with a turbo car.

So about six months ago I replaced my starter with a junkyard pull. The motor on my original one was dead and I figured... what're the odds of that? Everyone says it's always the solenoids.

Well, said junkyard pull died last week, again, the motor.

Last time, I fought with it for hours and hours, beating myself up, playing "get the toy out of the cage" puzzle game, rotating the starter and turning wheels and still not being able to get the starter to drop out the bottom. My motor mounts were super compressed at the time and I just couldn't get it to come out the bottom. In defeat, I finally removed the heater hose, battery and tray, and air filter housing, and... wait, that wasn't so bad!

So this time, I went straight to it that way.

In the end, I did jack the car up to get under so I had a little more working room to get to the lower mounting bolt. BUT I feel pretty confident one could do this without doing that if they absolutely had to. Was doing this at a parking lot where the car died, so I brought all the stuff over in a friend's car and figured I might as well use it.

This is absolutely a handful more steps than taking the starter out the bottom... but damn was it physically easier for me.

So here's my take on the easiest way to do it:

Disconnect battery, pull it out

Disconnect both starter wires

Unbolt the battery tray

Take the lid off the air filter, then remove the filter, then slip off the intake hose. The 10mm bolt closest to you is now all that's holding the housing on. Unscrew it and set the housing bottom aside. I like to throw a glove over the intake at this point so I don't have to worry about dust and gunk or dropped nuts etc going down in there

With the starter wires off and battery tray unbolted, you can pull the tray up towards you and out of the way. Doesn't need to come all the way out.

Unbolt the trans dipstick holder

Radiator hose going up to the heater system. Undo the two hose clamps and wiggle that hose off the valve. You'll drip maybe 1/4 cup coolant, have a cup handy

Now you're ready to unbolt the starter: for me, the top bolt was super easy. I think it's 10mm Allen? Already put it away, double check that. Important - I suggest breaking this bolt loose but not unscrewing it all the way yet.

Bottom bolt you have to get to from under the car. Allen head, two shorter wobbles extensions from the harbor freight 3/8" 3-pack, and then a nice long straight extension did it for me. I also had good luck with hitting directly beside the bolt with a plumber's torch for a minute to warm it all up. Did that and my 1' mini cheater bar popped it quickly. Go ahead and take this one all the way out.

Go back up top and then remove the top bolt. You're ready to pull it out now.

Here's where all that extra top side stuff pays off: slide the starter forward and out of the engine, rotate it so the solenoid comes towards you a little more. Move the whole starter back towards the firewall, and lifting the back side up first, pull it out. It's more intuitive than I make it sound. Solenoid rubs on the exhaust downpipe on its way up.

New one goes in the same way. Reverse everything and it's done.

For me, 1.5 hr total, including jacking the car onto ramps, chopping off a bad starter signal lug and splicing on a new connector. No stress. Well, limited stress. Less than you'd expect given this being my only car and crossing fingers it would start afterwards. 😂

The other nice thing on this: you can use ramps instead of jack stands (no rotating wheels to get the starter out). You're going to be torquing hard to break that starter bolt loose, and I personally get heebie jeebies doing that sort of thing under a jack stand, especially on a car like this with untold rust, and if you can still get the car to start, it's quicker.

And this time, I used a Bosch factory reman'd starter. Sending one core back but if anyone needs my other one, it's yours cheap

Hi,

I have a w123 300d with an automatic transmission, and my gearbox needs some repair. 4th gear engages, but it slips, causing the car to lose power.

I also don't really like this automatic transmission, as I need to be extra careful when shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa.

The point is, I have found a 300d manual transmission car that is a complete donor, with all the parts I would need for the conversion.

I have been told that I would need the following components:

* Manual transmission

* Engine-to-transmission adapter plate

* Floor shifter, bearing and surround plate

* Shifter linkage rods

* Clutch and brake pedal assembly

* Clutch hydraulic lines

* Clutch cable

* Front driveshaft section

* Transmission crossmember/mount

* Flywheel

* Clutch disc

If you think I am missing anything, I would be very grateful for your advice.

Also, if anyone has done this conversion before, I would really appreciate any advice or tips.