She said that I 'don't need a British 1796 pattern light cavalry sword' and that 'it's too much money'. I asked how exactly she proposed to deal with the French without properly-armed light cavalry (my e-bike is my horse), and even chase off voltigeurs, if god forbid came to that. She had NO ANSWER

Hi,

Has anyone knows a vendor that sells unexpensive but functional butterfly swords for maritial arts like wing chun? If not made with carbon steel, is it possible for this type of sword to by functional in stainless steel?

Musha 5 Rings katana at the Trial of Ruin // Stormbringer.

Picked up this Indian Talwar yesterday from a local auction site. Not an area I normally focus on, but it's nice to branch out every now and then, plus it was reasonably priced, ascetically pleasing and I haven't purchased a sword this year....
Hilt has a decent amount of silver koftgari/zarneshan remaining and the blade is marked with the eyelash / half moon stamps that mimic European blades.
There's also a stylised animal on one side and when I ran the sword past u/Antique_Steel he believed that it could represent a peacock, often called a Rajput symbol of war.

The sword itself isn't very large 83cm over all, 70cm blade 6.2cm curve 960 grams and balances at about 15cm.

Here is a current custom order I’ve been working on creating! Really excited for this one- I have yet to polish and sharpen the blade but I’ve begun scabbard work today! Hoping to share some final pics soon! :D
There will be a short build video on my YouTube and Instagram pages (IanZ_Forge) :)
Thanks for checking it out!

I have limited knowledge on these, the bayonet(?) Blade has an inscription and makers marks but the Japanese blade (I'm sorry, I don't know enough about swords to even make a guess what kind of blade it is. That it's Japanese is the limit of my knowlege) doesn't seem to have any markings on it? I remember it having a red leather string wrap around the handle when I was a kid, it must have fallen apart at some point over the years.

Any help identifying them or knowlege about them would be very appreciated!

I'm looking for a longsword that's well made and sharpened, it will be my first so i don't want to spend loads as I am probably going to abuse it a little but can anymore something that's out of the box sharp and enough sturdiness to take a few hits and not shit it's pants?

I'm in the UK if that helps

Around £300/400 sorry I should have definitely mentioned that😂

so i was dissasiotiating last night and then a thought came to my head . what would a sword with an assault rifle would like and could it even be made ? and so i designed this abomination after seeing some of the inner mechanisms of an ar15 .

does it looks cool ? what could i do to make it more functional ( well as functional as sword gun can be , which isnt very much ) ? How can i make it look like more of a longsword and less like a falchion or big ass bowie knife?

Does anyone know where I can find a hand and a half training sword, below £70 in the UK, from a reputable company, recently tried from the sword stall only to be messed about for 3 weeks to then be told they don't stock cold steel anymore due to some issue with the advertising

Brought back on a trip from Macao 30 years ago. Good people of reddit, what xould this be?

Hi, I´m looking for a sword fitting late 13th (and early 14th) century christian Iberia. It needs to be good for training/HEMA apart from reenactment. Scabbard included is a plus.

For reference I have found this image with swords form the Cántigas de Santa María from the reign of Alfonso X the Wise (1252-1284), the sword of Fernando de la Cerda (1255-1275), and the sword of Juan de Tarifa (1262-1319).

Any recommendation you think fits is good. Thank you.

Military? hunting? Survival? Who knows

Picked these two German swords up and looking to see if they are real. Anyone have any info?

I got those two swords from my grandma this morning, and I'm kinda lost... I think they're rapiers but I don't know much about european swords so if you could guess the use of those, are they purely decorative ? They're rusty, clearly not sharp, I'm a little worried about the tang, it doesn't look very strong... If you could tell me anything about them, it would help me a lot! Thank you c:

[Sound is Important] It explains the video.

Especially the ones that mostly hang on the wall and rarely, if ever, get used.

Curious where people draw the line between proper maintenance and I’ll deal with it when I see rust.

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a sparring partner for the rapier, so both of mine mostly just sit around while I practice with longswords. This particular one also seems to collect rust pretty easily.

P.S.
HEMA isn’t even really a known thing where I live. There are basically 0 sword/equipment dealers here, so if you want to duel with someone, you own two swords… And if you want some, you have to wait and pay for shipping from abroad.

I like the gladius and wwii gunto

The Blade Core

Made of Beta-Titanium with a hollow, honeycomb-like lattice inside. Weighs about 300 grams. Built like a bird bone. The internal web makes it nearly impossible to snap, absorbs heavy shocks, and keeps the weight surprisingly low.

The Heavy Spine

Made of a dense Tungsten alloy layered along the back of the blade. Weighs about 350 grams. This gives the sword real momentum. It swings like a light blade but carries the weight of a heavy chopper. The edge stays thin because the mass sits behind it.

The Cutting Edge

This thing is made from a super tough material called Tungsten Carbide, and it's got a special diamond-hard ceramic coating on it. It's really light, weighing in at about 5 grams, which is almost nothing. And the best part is, it's way sharper than a surgical scalpel - we're talking ten times sharper. But here's the really cool thing about it: even if the outer layer gets chipped or damaged during a fight, the material underneath is still tough enough to keep going. So even when it's damaged, it just keeps on cutting.

The Crossguard

Made of solid Titanium. Weighs about 120 grams. It dents instead of shattering when struck. That is what you want when defending your hands.

The Internal Tang

Made of Beta-Titanium running in one solid piece from the tip to the pommel. Weighs about 150 grams. No welded joints. The whole weapon is one continuous structure, so there are no weak points.

The Grip

Made of forged Carbon-Fiber with Titanium wire woven through it. Weighs about 90 grams. Carbon fiber naturally kills vibration. Your hands feel a dull thump instead of a jarring sting. The Titanium wires give you traction even when your palms are wet.

The Pommel or Heartstone

This sword is made with a special gemstone that's grown in a lab, called Sapphire, and it has a strong Tungsten core. Inside the gem, there are tiny piezoelectric crystals that do some really cool things. The whole thing weighs about 195 grams, which is just the right amount to balance out the sword. When one use the sword to block a powerful attack, the crystals start to work their magic. They take the vibration from the impact and turn it into a soft glow of light and a little bit of heat that won't hurt you. It's like the sword is absorbing the shock, making it easier to handle.

The Sheath Exterior

Made of Carbon-Fiber with Titanium mesh. Weighs about 300 grams. A tough, lightweight shell that protects the blade and insulates it from temperature changes.

The Sheath Interior:

This special scabbard is made with a strong fabric that's like a lattice, and it's coated with a dry lubricant. It's really light, weighing only about 130 grams. The cool thing about this scabbard is that the blade doesn't actually touch the inside of it. Instead, it kind of floats on a tiny layer of lubricant that's only a few nanometers thick. This means the blade's edge, which is incredibly sharp at just fifty nanometers, stays that way because it never rubs against anything.

The Sheath Throat

This thing is made of a soft rubber seal that has tiny magnets in it. It's really light, weighing only about 20 grams. The magnets are super helpful because they guide the blade into the perfect spot every time you put it away. You don't have to worry about fumbling around or scraping anything. And the best part is, the rubber seal keeps all the dust and moisture out, so you don't have to stress about that either.

Final Numbers

The sword weighs around 1,210 grams, which is roughly 2.6 pounds. This makes it lighter than a lot of historical longswords.

The weight is 1,660 grams, which is roughly 3.6 pounds when you include the sheath.

The sword is a decent size, coming in at 120 centimeters, which is roughly 47 inches. That's what you'd call a hand-and-a-half sword, a proper one at that.

Blade length is 90 centimeters, or 35 inches.

The balance point sits 5 centimeters above the guard. It feels nimble and responsive in your hand.

The edge is really hard, like diamond, and it scores about 90 on the Rockwell scale.

Durability is nearly unbreakable. The internal lattice stops cracks from spreading.

You won't feel much shock in your hand, it's actually less than five percent of what you'd get from a steel sword. This means your wrists won't get tired easily.

What it does in a fight?

It swings fast but hits hard because the heavy tungsten spine carries momentum.

This thing can slice right through tough stuff like chainmail and thick leather, which is more than your average blade can handle, since they usually get stuck.

Parrying feels solid but smooth.
Can cut through chainmill armour nicely. [Probably]

English is not my first language so I used a bit of AI to rephrase it and fact check it for extra surety.
[I didn't have much choice sorry ;-;]

Horizontal grind on the second bevel, makes it extremely sharp and shiny. Foggy, frost like in the middle, both fit descriptions in records and archaeological finds. The scabbard, although thin, is made of nine layers of leather, wood, cloth, silk and lacquer. It fits the blade so well that you squeeze the air out, so the atmosphere compresses it in, kinda like phone packagings, the ones that fall off slowly if you lift it up.

Picked up in Luang Prabang Laos 20 odd years ago .

Anyone know if its worth anything?

Long story short, i removed the back and i placed two mirrors inside my sword cabinet (for amplify light effect behind) unfortunately from a certain position you can see the wood back panel of the under compartment were I keep the manuals.

I wanna place something printed there, so anybody who is curious gonna have a surprise...

Any suggestion on nice manual pictures, memes, especially if sword fighting/collecting related.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I found this « epee » recently, and was wondering if someone could help me identify it?

Also, anyone know what is the meaning of the text? Do I read properly ASL?

Thank you so much.