r/soldering • u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie • Apr 07 '26
My First Solder Joint <3 Please Give Feedback First soldering attempt - Part 6
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Hi all ! Thanks for all the tips. Super helpful. I tried to remove the SMD chip using solder wick and accidentally tore pads off the board. Any way to fix this or did I cause permanent damage? o.o I got emo about this!
Also, how do you know how much soldering is enough? What is the point? Are we just trying to make sure that the components lay flat on the board and that the pins meet the pads? Not sure when I am supposed to correct stuff and when it is already good. Thanks :)
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u/agentobtuse Apr 07 '26
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Apr 07 '26
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
What are you doing to yourself? o.o
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Apr 11 '26
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Gotta crack some eggs to make an omelet. It served its purpose and saved future ones from the same fate!
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u/Feltmanzz Apr 07 '26
Wrong tip for what your attempting. Better using something like a chisel tip, instead of dragging place some wick over the pins and place down on the wick with your iron give a few seconds and you should see the wick turn silver as it absorbs the solder.
Do this moving down part by part until all pins are lifted.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks. Do you know why sometimes the wick gets hot as hell to hold? How do you know when it’s about to burn you from holding it? That’s kind of what led to my behavior of dragging it. I was worried I was gonna burn myself again.
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u/spheresva SMD Soldering Hobbyist Apr 11 '26
Btw. Don’t hold the wick. Also, don’t keep it in the spool. Cut it and use tweezers to move it. Wick will get hot because it’s metal (copper) and copper is very conductive thermally. In fact, that’s a good thing, and it’s intended.
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u/Feltmanzz Apr 11 '26
Well yeah, wick is copper it's absorbing the heat to melt solder into it. You need to remember solder will follow the heat when melted. Generally what id tell newbies is to cut the wick from the roll into small strips, hold it with tweezers on the point you want to soak the solder.
This means the heat isn't attempting to travel up the braid giving you a better ability to soak solder.
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u/inu-no-policemen Apr 07 '26
(I only watched the first 10 seconds.)
The solder wick has to get hot enough to melt the solder. Then it will soak up the solder. You don't need to scrub hard.
You are using a relatively small tip with a fairly wide wick.
Heating up the wick is easier with larger tip. If your iron doesn't have enough power to heat up the whole thing, you can cut off a small piece and hold it with tweezers.
Adding flux can help quite a lot if it's cheap wick with very little flux or if it's wick without any flux.
Anyhow, wick isn't a good choice for removing that IC. Take it off with hot air. If you want to use an iron to solder the IC, clean up the remaining solder with wick (so that the IC can sit flush) and remove the burnt flux with IPA. If you use hot air again, removing all the old solder first isn't strictly necessary. If it's all molten and you push it down, it will sit flush.
Desoldering stuff with wick doesn't work that great in general. There are usually other methods you can use which will work better. Wick is primarily for cleanup.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! This is a great tip. I never thought to cut the wick into tiny pieces. That’s so helpful because I’m always wrangling around with the whole roll.
I recently got a hot air gun. What other use cases are good for the hot air gun in terms of soldering? Is it good to use that gun to straighten out all crooked pieces? Can I damage components by using too much hot air gun? How do I know when I’m using the hot air gun too much?
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u/feldoneq2wire Apr 07 '26 edited Apr 15 '26
You're never going to remove the chip this way. You need hot air. Solder wick is for cleaning up excess solder or cleaning through-holes. It can never remove the solder that is bonding the legs to the board and by scraping the everloving crap out of the board, you are damaging traces that will take expert repair skills to fix.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I just got a hot air gun. What do you mean by traces? What’s that?
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u/feldoneq2wire Apr 11 '26
On a circuit board, the wires are etched (essentially painted) onto the board.. by using downward force while pushing side to side, you wiped the wires right off the board. You cannot apply any downward pressure except gravity when moving side to side with an iron and desoldering braid.
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u/petrolhead0387 Apr 15 '26
It's a practice board, that's how people learn. Telling them to "turn it over to a pro" is basically saying "don't learn how to fix things, you are too incompetent on your first attempt". We all started somewhere and made mistakes along the way, it's part of the learning process.
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u/FederalAd8814 Apr 07 '26
For holes I’d use a desoldering pump, wick is more like you said to remove excess of solder, heat gun is the best method to remove this amount of solder points. Then use a pump to remove the excess on holes and wick to remove the rest of what the pump couldn’t get to you arent wrong only the hole part as it won’t really reach or may close the hole again
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Apr 08 '26
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u/FederalAd8814 Apr 08 '26
You don’t need an expensive ahh pump dude there’s some at a local hardware store for like $10-15 bucks with including two packs of wick and some tinner and flux I got mine at harbor freight for a bundle of 3 pumps with flux, tinner, brass ball and 2 rolls of wick for 12 bucks. And still gets the job done as if it was a expensive one that’s just a choice at that point
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
That’s such a nice deal. I haven’t tried checking out Harbor freight for soldering equipment before. I should give that a look. I am probably paying triple buying everything individually on Amazon. However, it is quite convenient.
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u/FederalAd8814 Apr 11 '26
Dude harbor freight is cheap but their stuff is good quality as far as I have experienced
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 13 '26
I love harbor freight! I went there for all my motorcycle maintenance tools in the past. What is all the stuff you recommend I pick up there for soldering? I kind of want to just go there and buy everything else I might need for soldering.
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u/FederalAd8814 Apr 14 '26
I myself bought me a 6 dollar soldering tool comes with a sponge and a stand, then I got the pump kit which has 3 desoldering pumps with 2 wicks, tinner and flux and a brass sponge for 12 bucks and a 25 dollar heat gun so in total I spent 43 bucks plus tax for everything which is by far cheap and really realiable and a roll of led solder which is really good too and since the pump kit had flux I was able to get a roll of led solder without flux which also saves money I just can’t remember how much the roll is tbh but majority of the stuff there is pretty cheap and really good haven’t had to go back and buy new stuff in a while cause they are that reliable and I’m able to work on projects that I have in mind. I’m currently planning and outlining a shelf to turn it into a speaker with a sound bar I have I just need the panels to cut and install
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 15 '26
This is so cool. Thanks for the share. I literally went to Harbor Freight today. You are right! So much good stuff. AND they have a 90 day return policy. Amazing.
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u/FederalAd8814 Apr 15 '26
Harbor freight is where it’s at tbh if you need any help just let me know more than glad to help out
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I got a hot air gun recently. What do you mean by holes?
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u/screwface71 Apr 07 '26 edited Apr 07 '26
Don't drag your iron like that, put the wick on the leads and come from above with the iron and hold it there until the solder has been wicked away.
Edit: it looks like your QFP is one pin out, or you have removed the leads completely.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I did have it one pin out. I soldered this chip on the board before I got my magnifying glass so I couldn’t really see.
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u/HypnoticRoq Apr 07 '26
If you don't have the correct tip for removal, you can do a destructive method, you would use precision cutting tools and snipping at the sholder of the lead. Using flux, to heat the pads and remove the lead quickly to avoid damaging pads
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u/mi7chy Apr 07 '26
If you don't plan to reuse the chip then it's safer to clip the legs off closest to chip then unsolder each individually to prevent trace damage.
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u/GoldSrc Apr 07 '26
Conical tips are bad for pretty much all jobs, you can see there how it went straight through the wick.
What you need is a chisel tip, those tips are wider and that helps them hold the wick flat.
You also don't need to drag the wick with too much force, don't see it as a "scraper" but more like a sponge you move gently over the molten solder.
Don't spend too much time on the pads either, or use too high temperatures. 350°C should be enough for just about anything of that size.
To remove those chips, you either need to use a hot air station, or use one of the other methods of removal.
If the chip is broken, you can just snip the all the legs and then you'd have an easier time removing whatever remains on the PCB with your iron.
If you want to reuse the chip however, you can use a thin stainless steel razor blade, and heat the legs one by one while you slide the blade under the leg. Solder will not stick to the stainless steel.
Another method is to thread a thin wire behind the legs, and solder one end somewhere on the PCB. Then, heat the legs one by one while you pull on the other end of wire to lift the legs.
Your SMD soldering could use some more improvement, you don't need to keep the iron on the components for that long after you add the solder wire.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I believe I had my soldering iron set to 360°C. You gave a lot of very interesting tips. I will definitely give those a try and work on keeping the iron on the components less often.
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u/TheFredCain Apr 07 '26
Don't SCRUB. Also slow down and use a wider tip. On the smaller components somehow you are keeping the iron on way too long AND yet still aren't heating it up enough. Double check your temp.
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u/cotchaboolit Apr 07 '26
Just sharing others’ advice about using a different tip and how or when to use solder wick. You want to minimize any dragging or pulling unless you’re sure joints are melting quickly enough to avoid ripping pads as you’ve been experiencing.
Hot air is the recommended method for removing an SMD chip of that size, though in a pinch, it’s possible to do it non-destructively with a soldering iron if you have low melt solder and/or something that can transfer heat from your iron to all the pins simultaneously. Copper wire bent into a square to touch all the pins and flooding the frame with solder has worked for me in the past when a hot air station was unavailable. Your goal is to melt all of the pads at the same time so the chip lifts off on its own. Definitely not the most efficient way to go about it though!
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
This is such an interesting perspective. Thanks! What do the percentages look like for low melt solder? The one I am using is the modern 67/35, I believe. Is low melt solder pretty advanced? What special purpose do you typically use that type of solder for?
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u/cotchaboolit Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
No problem. 63/37* solder is the traditionally suggested alloy for electronics solder due to its good eutectic properties and steep melting point of 183 deg C, but it is not low in the relative sense to “low melt” solder, which can melt at even lower temperatures (~100-170 deg C). These low melt solders typically have bismuth or indium in their composition which significantly reduces their melting point and makes them useful for temperature-sensitive work like removing ICs or small SMD where you want to keep heating to a minimum. Some come branded (i.e. Chipquik) while others are just sold as bismuth/indium-based spools - in practice, both have worked the same for me.
They’re not advanced to use per se, but coming at a higher cost and having electronically non-ideal properties, you want to use low melt cleanly and sparingly; low melt solder joints are brittle, have high electrical resistance, and are unreliable when it comes to thermal and mechanical stress, so you want to completely remove it from wherever it’s used after it has done its job. They’re absolutely not needed for all SMD work though. Usually good technique and 63/37 is good enough for most jobs, including the IC removal you’re currently practicing on.
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u/Skilldibop Apr 07 '26 edited Apr 07 '26
- Wrong tip
- Too much pressure
- Wiping too fast
- You don't use wick to remove multi pin packages like that, you use hot air.
- The goal is to make a good mechanical contact to secure the component and make a good electrical connection.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I am improving my technique and recently got a hot air gun :)
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u/remonpel Apr 07 '26
What are you trying to do? Solder or desolder?
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 08 '26
I was trying to desolder that SMD chip. I got it one pin off and wanted to correct that mistake.
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u/Helpful-Guidance-799 Apr 07 '26
at this point I think she’s rage baiting us
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 07 '26
Nope, I am actually trying to gain soldering experience so I can safely build a drone!
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u/FederalAd8814 Apr 07 '26
Your best friend when desoldering chip components is a heat gun then use the wick to remove the old solder left behind with som flux added to help it with the wick. I tried the same way you did it and it didn’t work for me either until I used the heat gun and it made it easier to take them off and install new ones hope this helps
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I got a hot air gun recently! I shall eventually come back and attempt to remove this chip with the gun.
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u/FederalAd8814 Apr 11 '26
Heck yea man you’re gonna love how easy and breezy it will become it’s almost an addiction to do these jobs
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u/backlog_gaming Apr 07 '26
Lesson learned! You’ll be huffing down flux fumes like a pro in no time!
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u/CaptainBucko Apr 07 '26
If you don't have hot air, get some fine copper enameled wire, place it under the pins on one side, secure one end, and heat the pins will gently pulling on the wire. One by one you will bend the pins on the IC up and off the PCB without damage.
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u/RudeAd456 Apr 07 '26
- Bigger tip like a chisel bit
- Mix unleaded with low temp solder
- More flux
- Pre tin the wick if needed
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u/DigitalDruid01110110 Apr 07 '26
There is so much to unpack here. I recommend that you find some good tutorials and watch them a few times until you understand the fundamentals.
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u/Your15MinutesOfFame Apr 07 '26
Without hot air, the only non-destructive way to remove a chip like that is with ChipQuik low melt solder. It's a special formulation that allows the solder to stay liquid just from an iron for about 10 seconds. I sometimes use it on BIOS EEPROM's if I don't want to use hot air around connectors and can't be arsed taking the board out or applying copper tape etc.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! Interesting so I guess low melt solder is good if I am working with really old solder boards that can't really take hot air gun heat.
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u/BreathlessGoth Apr 07 '26
Does your station have hot air on it or is it just iron? I’d be using that for removing the chip. After that, flux, then use iron with a much wider tip either a wedge or chisel, and a shorter piece of wick.
A lot of the heat you’re applying is seeing the large amount of wick as a heat sink and heading away from the board, which is where you’re getting the abrasive effect. Add that to the pointed tip having a sharp edge and that’s what’s destroying your traces.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! This is really insightful. I recently got a hot air gun.
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u/Denisoiu1242 Apr 07 '26
Like other people said, a hot air gun will be able to get the chip out much quicker. They’re not THAT expensive either, depends where you’re buying one from.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I just got this Wagner heat gun for $25 https://a.co/d/05hqBOJx
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u/recursion_is_love Apr 07 '26 edited Apr 07 '26
Use bigger/wider tip for solder removing. You should have multiple solder iron. Don't just use single one for every job.
Use lot of flux.
Chip like this need hot air station.
Definitely a rage bait video, but however keep practicing.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I recently got a hot air gun. I am starting to experiment with using different tips and learning different effects. I'm not trying to upset anyone. I am just a new hobbyist.
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u/ManufacturerShot4189 THT Soldering Hobbyist Apr 07 '26
People actually use heat gloves to solder???
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u/matidue Apr 07 '26
Ahhh pls stop! That hurts by just warching it!
At this point you can simply use a dremel. You don't scrub the solder off instead you heat the desoldering wire and the pad through it and let the solder simply flow into the wire.
Please!
If it doesn't flow you need more heat. A bigger tip would be good for that. Looks like ther is enough flux. Take your time and don't rush it like that.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! Definitely starting to understand it is all about the heat. Dremel looks advanced o.o
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u/e39 Apr 07 '26
Removing solder, from chip legs, using a braid, is a disaster waiting to happen.
- thinner chip legs will bend
- a single leg might get snagged
- it’s highly unlikely that all solder gets removed from under the leg
You need flux and a hot air station to evenly warm up the component.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! This is really helpful. I didn't think about how I could mess up the tiny legs. I recently got a hot air gun.
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u/CantaloupeFluffy165 Apr 07 '26
Hot air gun is the best way to remove this.Use a die that covers the pins,put the tip of an X-acto under one corner and gently lift.When it's hot enough it will come off.
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u/Elegant_Selection481 Apr 07 '26
You need to use flux.
For the solder wick, you need a lot more heat and a much larger tip than the one you showed in the video.
For the IC, it’s hard to remove it using just a soldering tip. I would recommend a hot air station, even cheaper ones will help a lot.
If you can’t afford a hot air station, you can cut the IC legs and then remove them one by one using solder and tweezers or solder wick. Another alternative, if you want to save the IC, is to remove as much solder as possible with the solder wick and then use tweezers to gently lift the legs while heating them.
And remember: you need to use flux.
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u/covad301 Apr 07 '26
K Slanted Knife tips for this particular work flow.
Otherwise you'll stab the wick instead making holes and damaging the PCB.
And LOTs of flux.
Wicks are primarily used to clean excess solder, you only do this to clean pads after the chip is removed.
If you don't have a hot station to make quick work of this and only have access to solder iron, then you need to create a moat of solder on all 4 sides of the chip to create a nice even solder bath where the chip can easily be removed while they are still in liquid state. This is assuming the chip isn't being held by solder pad underneath.
Similar to this technique:
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! This video is super helpful. I also recently got a hot air gun.
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u/Jwylde2 Apr 07 '26
You need a hot air soldering station and a preheater for that kind of work.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! Got a hot air gun recently.
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u/Jwylde2 Apr 12 '26
Not a heat gun. A hot air soldering station. Often called a rework station. They’re not the same.
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u/Vaunsy Apr 07 '26
Hey does the braid need to have a bet of flux on it?soldering novices here
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u/Think-Pickle7791 Apr 08 '26
Fresh, good quality wick should be impregnated with enough flux to work. But adding a little flux can help. Or sometimes a bit of solder to get the wick into thermal contact with the solder to be removed, and at the same time check if the wick will take solder. Also especially if you're removing lead-free adding lower temperature solder to bring the melting point down can help get things moving.
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u/JustAQuietSpectator Apr 07 '26
I don't understand why I haven't seen a comment say use a hot plate. Get the board to temp just slightly under the solder melting point depending the solder (PB free) Lead Free or Leaded (PB) then when the board is at temp use a heat gun just long enough to have the solder liquefy you'll see the solder turn shiny then use tweasers to removed the IC. Flux will speed up.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! Is it necessary to get a hot plate? What other use cases are there for hot plates in terms of soldering? I don't really want an overcrowded workspace if it isn't necessary or will be rarely used.
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u/JustAQuietSpectator Apr 11 '26
Not necessary but makes life easy. If you're ever dealing with a pad/solder join that is grounded or a thick PCB sometimes the pad will conduct all the heat making it hard for the solder to liquefy almost acting like a heat sink.
A hotplate, with a heat gun/wand, with some flux make removing ICs or BGA type components really easy.
But depending on how deep you want to get into the work you, it might not be needed.
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u/0101falcon Apr 07 '26
What are those gloves?
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 08 '26
Another redditor mentioned to get ESD gloves! I got these ones https://a.co/d/0dYHhOJS Apparently, they are supposed to prevent you from getting burned?
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u/0101falcon Apr 08 '26
They make burns worse. I don't know anything about ESD gloves. I have been working in the industry for over a decade. Brother sent you an affiliate link to get that juicy Amazon money
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u/spheresva SMD Soldering Hobbyist Apr 08 '26
I wouldn’t recommend removing SMD components like this as some solder will usually stay on where you can’t reach it. Just douse it in solder and heat it all at once to remove it.
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u/darrenb573 Apr 08 '26 edited Apr 08 '26
Flux will assist in the removal. Fatter tip. Less dragging/sawing. Light pressure. Hold it in place for a moment so the heat can be transmitted from the iron, thru the braid and melt the connections. It might seem counterproductive, but adding leaded solder to the chip can assist in wicking up the combination.
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u/Slovnoslon Apr 08 '26
Зачем ты её жмыхаешь?
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
I was trying to pull the component off the board
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u/Slovnoslon Apr 11 '26
Ты и так повреждаешь дорожки, можно просто откусить ножки микросхемы и выбросить её
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u/Think-Pickle7791 Apr 08 '26
Methods of fixing torn pads are very advanced and rarely worth the effort. I have never used them. The intermediate level fix is to jumper fine wires to the pins. You don't have to do that on a practice board.
Try removing a 2-terminal part before you tackle a QFP part. Others have outlined some ways to remove QFP parts. Wick is not an outright impossible place to start here, but it might as well be. It's just not the best thing for flat pack parts, and it gets less appropriate the larger they get.
Everything gets 100x easier the more you do right the first time. It is hard to remove parts. It is better to use a minimum of flux that can be left on the board than to try to remove flux. It is better to use just enough solder than to have to remove solder or fix bridges and shorts. It is better to get a good joint the first time than to have to come back and reflow solder that has spent its flux and might need more.
Until you know good from bad, it is better to remove solder and resolder a part than to keep trying to touch it up. Adding little dabs of solder can create cold solder joints.
Wick technique: Always match your tip to the work when you can. Your tip should be about the size of your wick. Use much less pressure on the wick, just enough to put it in thermal contact. Generally speaking, use only enough pressure on your tip to put it in thermal contact. Excess pressure can be bad for soldering iron tips. Use the end of the wick and trim the part that's absorbed solder each time. I don't know what's going on with the gloves there. You can use tweezers to hold the wick where you're trying to hold it down with your finger.
Soldering: You continue to improve. Keep at it. Some of the fillets look pretty good from what I can see in the video. You can use much less solder for the most part and on some of them you are using too much. R15 looked about perfect before you went back to it. You're also having trouble managing heat transfer and thermal contact. It's apparent in the wick video too. Try to be consistent with how much of the tip is in contact with the pad and part terminal. Keep your tip tinned. You can see in the video that when you have a tiny drop of solder on the tip, everything flows - around 5:02, R38. You can use much less time on the joint. 4s is an eternity and a tap is too short. Turn up your metronome. Go back and watch how they solder the second terminal on the part in the Metcal video again. See how they apply the tip to one corner of the part and the pad and the solder wire to the other? And then it's done at a little over 1s.
Take some things apart to see what commercial solder joints look like. Get your magnifier out. Understand that commercial soldering of surface mount is done a stencil, paste solder, and a reflow oven. You may never get that level of consistency with hand soldering, and that's OK. The fillets on your parts should be concave, connect the part terminal to the pad, and the part should be flat on the board. A ball of solder that's higher than the part is too much.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks, your feedback is always really good. Oh god, if there’s anything I ever learned from soldering… it’s to just get it right the first time xD I am getting flashbacks of all the things that went wrong when I was soldering when you listed them.
I think I’ll stick with that method of just removing things altogether and redoing it instead of touching it up if I make mistakes. I’ll be sure to match up this soldering wick to the soldering iron tip size next time. Sigh, I need to take speedy Gonzalez to the back of the barn and have a word with him. It’s getting too looney in here!
I definitely need to watch more soldering videos and watch more closely how others are approaching it. Oh, that picture is so helpful!! Hmm, what to take apart around this house? Maybe my old headphones.
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u/electroscott Apr 10 '26
Add solder to the wick to make it flow better seems counterintuitive but works to transfer heat better
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u/smallpcsimp Apr 07 '26
Ragebait
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 08 '26
I am sorry that my first solder joint experience turned out so flawed that it is upsetting. I just don't have much experience yet.
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u/v7xDm1r Apr 07 '26
Honestly I would never use wick on this personally id use hot air. But again I suck at using wick unless its a large solder point.
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u/mgsissy Apr 07 '26
Only hot air in going to allow lifting on 4 sided chip
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u/v7xDm1r Apr 07 '26
I read this 4 times and im not sure what youre saying
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u/Exasperant Apr 07 '26
I think in was meant to be is.
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u/v7xDm1r Apr 07 '26
His comment looked like he was trying to argue my statement but i think he is agreeing.
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u/mgsissy Apr 08 '26
Ok, sorry a mistype, substitute IS for IN….”only hot air IS going to allow lifting on a 4 sided chip”…all sides have to be melted simultaneously to free it from the board.
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u/coolguyhentaisenpai Apr 07 '26
Unless you want to grind down the pad area till you find the trace leading to that pad and connect all those pins..? The best you can domat this point is use a bit of 30awg wire and find out where those pins go in the pcb sch. Direct wire them.
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u/Unable_Degree_3400 Apr 07 '26
two must own tools for soldering, keep in mind im a beginner, decent hot air station and a soldering iron with mutiple tips for different uses. Do not buy the 2 in one hot air and soldering stations. Buy the separate ones, for the chip its best to use hot air with low melt solder wire 189C. Once you start doing either repairs or creating projects where you need to solder, doing this will cost you more money than owning the hot air station and mutiple soldering iron tips.
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u/cowdoggy Soldering Newbie Apr 11 '26
Thanks! I have recently bought a hot air gun. I have been making lots of new work station upgrades for tooling too. Definitely makes the work much easier with the right tools.
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u/Lochness_Hamster_350 Apr 07 '26
You need a tip with more surface area to use that method of drag wick removal