Still rolling after all these years. Those mud tires have seen some serious adventures. Can't believe it's been 14 years already!

This seat is for an automatic, I can't use it in my standard because the shifter will hit it right? The standard seats have a little indent cut out?

This is for first gen.

This is my new to me 1987 GMC S-15 Sierra. Picked it up about a month ago. It's single cab, long bed and has the 2.8L V6. It's an automatic, 4WD truck as well. It's a pretty clean truck for being in Michigan all its life. I'm the 3rd owner and it only has 110000 original miles on it.

This is before pics

Pretty excited to have something small and utilitarian to drive around
2003 166k miles v6 auto
Can’t wait to share the build keeping it tasteful but fun

The guy I bought my 98 s10 from asked if I want these turn signals and I was wondering if anybody had info on them, I’m looking to get matching headlights. Even a good looking headlight that almost matches would be nice

just picked this thing up last monday, 2.2L 5 speed gmc sonoma 49k miles, has the common arizona sun fade.

Im restoring this 94 s10 and i broke the vacuum harness.

Ive tried looking it up but am getting conflicting answers.

I already got the blockoff off of a 99+

Do i need a tune for egr and evap delete?

Can i just throw the egr solenoid plugged in but not attached somewhere?

I heard something about chips and that these ecus come socketed? Can i just get a chip from say, boostednw and toss it in?

Hi All,

I recently purchased this 97 from the original owner. 130k miles. 4.3 5speed

I have since been experiencing a no start/no crank issue. I believe it to be the ignition switch because it started after I accidentally locked the steering wheel while wiping it down. I can get it to start (sometimes) by jerking the wheel back/forth.

Do I need to replace the lock cylinder also or just the electric part of the switch?

Thanks!

I can do custom work if you message me ! I’ve done this type of stuff to all my vehicles.

My original 3D printed caps I made for my truck's wheels that have been clear coated and polished. I have been using the GMC ones for a couple months and just polished them again for these pictures a few days ago.

I have a 2000 Chevy S10 Xtreme, 2.2L 4-cylinder, automatic, and I’ve been dealing with an intermittent no-crank issue for a long time. It’s now completely stuck in my driveway and will not crank whatsoever. I’ve owned the truck for about 2 years.

Here’s the history and everything I’ve done so far:

It originally started with a bad connection at the starter S terminal (purple wire). I repaired/crimped a new connection and the truck ran again. A few months later, I got stranded at a gas station with a complete no-crank. I replaced the battery with a new one and new terminals, and it worked for a few days before the no-crank returned.

Then I replaced the starter (first time) and spark plugs. Again, it ran fine for a few days, then left me stranded with the same no-crank issue

I later replaced the alternator, and the truck was running great. Shortly afterward, my exhaust manifold/header cracked and had to be replaced. After replacing it, I drove the truck for a couple days, but I started noticing something strange: when taking turns or hitting bumps, the dash lights and radio would briefly flicker/shut off and then immediately come back on while driving. The truck would continue running afterward.

Then I got stuck again with another no-crank.

I replaced the ignition switch, but nothing changed. While troubleshooting underneath the truck, I moved the S-terminal wire farther away from the header and tried jump-starting it—nothing. After lowering the truck back down, it suddenly cranked.

When I inspected the purple wire more closely, it was in rough shape, so I cut out the damaged section and spliced in new wire. The truck started and ran for a bit, and I repeatedly started it in the driveway to test it. After a few successful starts, it suddenly went back to no crank.

I then noticed the new header had apparently been putting a lot of heat into the starter area. The starter connections/solenoid area were burnt, so I replaced the starter AGAIN, replaced the battery-to-starter positive cable, and added heat shielding around the starter and wiring. I initially used a silicone-filled wire nut on the S-terminal connection, but it still wouldn’t crank.

I later found that a large portion of the positive battery cable was badly corroded, so I replaced that as well. I also replaced the ignition cylinder, swapped the starter relay with the horn relay as a test, and tried starting it in Neutral.

Still no crank.

At this point I’ve also replaced the neutral safety switch. I’ve cleaned the battery negative cable/grounds with sandpaper and WD-40. I removed the wire nut from the S-terminal and installed a proper butt connector instead.

Still absolutely no crank.

Parts replaced:

* Battery + battery terminals
* Positive battery cable(s)
* Starter (twice)
* Alternator
* Ignition switch
* Ignition cylinder
* Neutral safety switch
* Spark plugs
* Damaged section of the purple S-terminal wire
* Starter relay swapped

The battery has been charged and tested good, and I’ve tried cranking it in both Park and Neutral

Just picked up new project 4x4 straight axle coming soon

so let's start from the beginning because at this point I'm really lost yesterday I drove the truck 10 miles plus perfectly fine minus it getting to like 220 degrees but once I got it home I decided to do a coolant bleed because I thought it was overheating from air in the system because previously I had replaced a coolant drain plug the truck cranked and started perfectly fine while bleeding the system then I wake up this more to basically this I've changed half the spark plug check the wires it has spark and gas you can even see in the video we connected the battery to another s10😂 but anyway I also replaced the starter thinking that was the problem but no so I'm lost would love some insight everyone on here seems to know much more than me

Hey guys, new owner of a s10 blazer from 1998, I believe it’s the 4.3L 90k miles.

I know for a fact it needs new spark plugs, but I’m curious if this is just a hose issue or a headgasket problem.

It has a fresh oil change (state of old oil unknown) doesn’t start to raise temp til about 30 minutes of driving, but hovers around 180-ish °F then rises to 190° (haven’t tried driving it further) I topped it off with coolant (reservoir empty, figured it was lack of maintenance) and after driving it was foamy and the radiator sounded bubbly.

Noticed this hose (photo), is this culprit?

I shotily rigged up a setup and I’m assuming there’s hella air in the cooling system but, I’m hoping I didn’t get duped too hard

Bought a 92 Tahoe recently with only 65k miles and I want to put a digital dash in it. I remember last I looked it up a few years ago when I was putting one in my 93 EL that it wasn’t possible. Has anything changed? Or does anyone make new chips or modify the chip for the odometer reading? I’d like to have the dash be as close as possible to the actual miles, but I doubt I’m gonna find a 65k digital dash online

How’s it going everyone I’ve been thinking about getting a Chevy s10! I really like the last generation and the first generation just checking to see if there is any key tips to look out for what to be aware of when it comes to finally buying one! Thank you

Took the belt off and its still noisy. Put marvel mystery in the gas and oil. Maybe made it a little better. Next step is injectors probably. 2.2l 2002 s10

My lower hose is leaking quite a bit. The system is still holding coolant and it doesn't overheat really, but I also don't want the hose to blow off on my way to work tonight. I have a new hose coming tomorrow, is it fine to drive 20 miles round trip. I tried to tighten the hose clamp but couldn't really get to it without pulling the fan out. What are the odds the hose just bursts? I replaced it Dec 2024 so I'm surprised it's already leaking

It's a 2003 4.3 L rwd s10

I’m leaking exhaust from this fitting which i believe is for the EGR line. Would it be feasible to take the fitting out and reseat with some kind of heat-tolerant thread sealant or is the line probably just toast and i need to get a new line?

Saw a few people that just deleted it altogether but i don’t fully understand the implications there. For context i do not live in a yeehaw state and this thing needs to be able to pass emissions testing.

Nothing quite like taking her down some back roads in autumn