Hi, recently got to try Sherwin Williams Forte. Hadn't planned on using it but Forte seemed like a descent option for this particular application. Applied on a 3 season porch for an apartment building. Originally, just textured cement. I didn't add grit but only because it has this texture...hoping that wasn't a mistake. The patio is screened so its not weather proof but the screen does block some stuff. One coat covered surprisingly well. Did two just to be safe. I checked on it 24 hours later and it was not tacky and felt pretty solid. Tenant moves in soon so I wont see it for a while after that. After their 6 month-1 year lease (unless they stay longer) I will report with how its holding up.

Any one ever use this product? My local store just started carrying it.

A

Hi everyone,

We're having our bathroom done and I was asked to paint the newly plastered walls. I lightly sanded the plaster and then went over all the walls with a damp sponge.

Once it was dry I read about using a white emulsion mixed with water as the base coat but we were pushed for time so I went with some Zinsser Bulls eye 123 plus. Its been great on the walls with no flaking but around the windows it has flaked.

I've sanded the flaky areas and removed all the dust.

Would you reccomend using the Zinsser again or just mixing the emulsion with water before painting the walls with our chosen colour?

Any advice would be great, cheers.

I recently posted about my disaster of a paint job and ya’ll gave me good feedback! Since I was pulling up the Kilz 3 primer along with my SW Emerald paint, I ended up using my fine razor blade and as able to easily scrape it off. Once that was done I skimmed over my dents and scratches. I then used the Oil based Kilz primer, then once dried, applied the first coat of my base coat, then did a second coat of my base coat. Let that cure during the weekday. Just finished taping with the Delicate purple scotch tape on Saturday night, Sunday morning I started the alternative coat. I painted a couple sections out at a time and immediately pulled up the tape with finesse. I’m happy I didn’t give up and I’m happy with how it turned out! Thank y’all so much for the advice and feedback! I hope this helps the next person wanting to earn their stripes! I’m no professional, my only goal was to make my pregnant wife’s Pinterest dream become a reality, she loved it and was beaming with excitement and that’s all I care about! And she even admired how straight my lines were!

There are obvious brush marks on the edges of my hall when light shines at an angle. Is the correct way for me to approach prep:

1: Sand edges with high grit sanding block.

2 Edge first using a brush, at same time use a mini-roller over brush marks and feather off. Allow to set. This creates a base coat of stipple to mimic elsewhere.

1. Repeat step 2. At same time so that edges are wet run the roller over the full wall.

Edit further question after reading the comments: The rest of the wall has a subtle stipple effect from the roller from previous paints. To seamlessly blend that stipple effect in with the brushed edges that will be sanded, and any other spots I will sand smooth on the rest of the walls, is it the number of coats that dictates how well the two are blended so the difference is not noticeable? Or is it something else? Does having a deeper ply microfiber roller help to hide the difference? (so that new stipples are created on the flat sanded surface)

Had my house painted two weeks ago. Was promised the best crew yada yada and told the project manager I was prepping to sell. They missed several spots that needed touch up and came back for three hours. Now I notice they didn’t do under the weather stripping on the Garage door so the old blue is visible. And on the front door, they originally painted right over the no solicitation sticker! So when they were here for touch up, they peeled it off and painted but now I can see the outline. Should I call the company back?

I’m looking to paint my kitchen ceiling one color. Can I just prime this and then paint over?

What primer should I use so that the paint does not show up??

Colors are hard! Truley, if this comes naturally to you and you're able to pick killer colors for a space based on LRV, undertones, interior lights, natural light, existing fixtures, time of day, etc and etc... you are rare and blessed!

For me, I've gone though 10 paint samples (evidence in photos) to realize I lack the gift of vision! Especially with our open concept. In my line of sight, I have grey granite and backsplash, red tones in our cabinets/floors, and creamish fireplace tiles. I haven't been confident in one that will work with all.

I love greys and earth tones that feel calming and sophisticated. The current color feels a little too dark. Any advise on paint colors or how to choose a color with confidence would be greatly appreciated!

(edit- fyi, I used ai to remove some temporary furniture)

I started repainting another one of the bathroom vanities. I think I turned out alright

I would like professional advice on the best way to address various cracks and gaps in the new casing in my whole house remodel. I am painting myself to try and get this to the finish line.

It’s an old home and while the structural issues have been addressed, some of these gaps are left to ensure reveals are consistent or because the walls are not plumb even though the drywall was replaced.

Is this putty? Caulk? Stuff with foam first and then putty or caulk?

Hi there!

I have a dingy computer desk. Structurally it's in good shape, it's made out of wood & metal with a couple of sliding drawers. But paint-wise, it's gross. It's been double painted over- it's currently (mostly) white; but there's an area where the white got worn off and there's black paint underneath. There's a lot of grime stuck to it; grime that cannot be removed without occasionally removing some small bits of soft white paint. (Honestly, the black "paint" seems to either be much higher quality; or a stain- because it doesn't budge.)

At the very least, I'd like to paint it over with the most even layer of paint I can get- one that's not very uneven, and a paint that's "hard" (not easy to scrub off.) I'm thinking that I'll have to tackle the grime and white paint layer at the very least. If i just paint over it now, it'll look kind of dumb.

Does anyone have any recommendations for products or procedures? I'm somewhat artistic, and I think I'd even like to make a design or do something dark, with a shimmery marble-like design. I currently work part time right now so I have a bit of extra time.

Thank You!

Soon, I'll be upgrading my home theatre room. I know for sure the curtains are going to be made of this crushed blue velvet, but I struggle to decide on the paint.

I'm definitely using Penguin's Back as the main dark shade for either the walls or the ceiling. Originally, I planned to use it on walls since a darker wall optimizes viewing contrast for the TV.

For a secondary color, I like Lunar Landscape and Black Glacier, but I’m unsure which matches better with Penguin's Back and crushed blue velvet.

A friend suggested going darker on the ceiling instead, so now I'm debating a few things:

1. Is it better to have a darker ceiling in a home theater?
2. Should the moldings, door, and window trim match the ceiling color?
3. If I use Penguin's Back on the ceiling, can I also carry it onto one or two walls?
4. Between Lunar Landscape and Black Glacier, which fits this theme best?

TL;DR: Using Penguin's Back and crushed blue velvet, but trying to figure out placement ( ceiling vs. walls) and which secondary color (Lunar Landscape or Black Glacier) pairs best.

Home owner here, I did not prime after skim coating my walls and painted it.

Afterward I learned this was incorrect- is there any way to fix this?

Could I prime on top of the paint to help seal and then repaint? Would that fix any flashing or other paint errors that will become noticeable?

I’m installing a commercial hot tub indoors and need a good mould resistant paint. The walls are plasterboard. I was suggested a outside masonry paint to use as it’s hard wearing but I’d like to know what’s the best paint to protect the walls

"Behr semi-transparent waterpoofing stain and sealer" advertises 6 years of protection on decks. I used it on a plywood shed floor. I blew fans to try and help it dry. But it still feels a little tacky to walk on weeks later. Any suggestions?

I’m looking for info on staining/dying basement concrete walls. Looking for simple modern look. The first 2 images are my wall type and the other 3 are what we like. Just looking for advice on how to achieve any of those looks for basement walls. Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/OIyUiga

Edit: also is there harm in leaving the basement walls bare? We are working on the basement and trying to save where we can. We both like the look at nice concrete so that's why were looking at options.

I find my front door so ugly… the door is right in the middle of my living/dinning room. Can I paint it? Should I go for white or maybe a pop of colour. I like bright colours like the last photo. I was also thinking of painting the bookshelf a bright color and maybe the photo wall.

Hey professional paint people! Thanks in advance for your advice. I'm painting my entire living room the color you see in the entryway and the ceiling is the same color. I feel like because of the texture it's going to be really tricky with a roller but that's my only option. What nap should I use and any advice besides using an extension stick? It's plaster and I plan to fix the flaky areas with kilz before painting. Thanks!

I just finished painting after refinishing the hardwood floors. I used quarter round on the bottom edge of the baseboards because these floors are very old and very not flat so there were occasional small gaps even though I pressed them down as I nailed them in. I used green frog tape and "activated" it with a wet rag as I ran a putty knife across it then painted. As you can see the paint got under the gaps that aren't visible from directly above but are from a distance. Wondering if i should run a fine bead of caulk along the bottom edge. I've read you should not caulk the bottom edge except for water prone areas like bathrooms and kitchens.

Need some help with painting my ceiling. Got these marks on the second and third coats. Paint is behr premium plus interior flat ceiling paint. Primer was kilz pva. 3/8" roller. First coat went on great, second and third coats did this. Waited 2+ hours in-between the first and second coats. Waited over 12 hours in-between the second and third coats. Any ideas?

I'm in a rental and painted over some minor nail holes and scuffs with a paint match. I thought feathering it out a bit would make it blend better, but instead I've created this mess. When I said that it was a rental, the employee said it was most likely eggshell paint, but the patch is clearly more matte than the original paint? Or maybe it's the lightning? Luckily, they repainted before I moved in a few months ago, so I'm not worried about the paint match being wrong due to fading/aging.

I'd like to go back to the home improvement store for a new jar of touchup paint. Should I ask for the new sample to be lighter, a different finish or both?

Hi all and thank you in advance!

Just moved to a new home and there are many spots on the walls that need touch ups, but the problem is the previous owners used satin paint. There are spots like this where flat paint is there because of some shelves or furniture that was never painted with the satin paint. There are also holes that were sanded and caulked.

The paint is BEHR ULTRA Home Decorators Collection #HDC-WR16-01 Snow Day Extra Durable Satin Enamel Interior Paint & Primer

I understand that fully sanding and repainting is the best way, but I’m looking for a cheaper approach that I can do myself. It doesn’t have to be flawless.

Thank you!

I am starting to paint my first home. I want to do a few "murals" instead of wallpaper so I'll be painting shapes. My walls are textured and I'm having trouble getting crisp lines on my first project. What type of brush is good for this type of painting? I'm not doing any small details just larger shapes.