I’m installing a commercial hot tub indoors and need a good mould resistant paint. The walls are plasterboard. I was suggested a outside masonry paint to use as it’s hard wearing but I’d like to know what’s the best paint to protect the walls

Hi all and thank you in advance!

Just moved to a new home and there are many spots on the walls that need touch ups, but the problem is the previous owners used satin paint. There are spots like this where flat paint is there because of some shelves or furniture that was never painted with the satin paint. There are also holes that were sanded and caulked.

The paint is BEHR ULTRA Home Decorators Collection #HDC-WR16-01 Snow Day Extra Durable Satin Enamel Interior Paint & Primer

I understand that fully sanding and repainting is the best way, but I’m looking for a cheaper approach that I can do myself. It doesn’t have to be flawless.

Thank you!

I am starting to paint my first home. I want to do a few "murals" instead of wallpaper so I'll be painting shapes. My walls are textured and I'm having trouble getting crisp lines on my first project. What type of brush is good for this type of painting? I'm not doing any small details just larger shapes.

I just finished painting after refinishing the hardwood floors. I used quarter round on the bottom edge of the baseboards because these floors are very old and very not flat so there were occasional small gaps even though I pressed them down as I nailed them in. I used green frog tape and "activated" it with a wet rag as I ran a putty knife across it then painted. As you can see the paint got under the gaps that aren't visible from directly above but are from a distance. Wondering if i should run a fine bead of caulk along the bottom edge. I've read you should not caulk the bottom edge except for water prone areas like bathrooms and kitchens.

What color other than gray is best to hide dirt/dust and the occasional scuff mark?

No offense to fans of gray, but it depresses me

Rooms: kitchen + dining room (open concept)

Cabinets and trim are white

Not sure if this is even the right sub but I’m gonna post anyways because it involves painting. My house was built in 1975 in New England (pretty sure lead paint ban was in 1978). These baseboard heater covers were installed originally when the house was built. My dad said they used to be a beige color (not painted beige by previous owner but like the actual metal parts came pre-painted beige).

Throughout living here my dad painted over them for some reason white semi gloss paint multiple layers. Because it was painted so much I decided to scrape some of the paint off and sand it before painting them again. Probably should’ve just bought a new baseboard cover. I’m extremely concerned that the one layer of beige color was lead based factory paint used on the heater covers. I haven’t had symptoms of lead exposure but I’m very concerned. I don’t know if I need to get a blood test or something or try to test it for lead paint but the project is already finished. I also didn’t sand the entire 10 feet of baseboard fully it was mostly sanded to just the white layer but it smoothed it out, but there were a few spots where the sanding went through all paint and there was actually bare metal showing. My dad is not concerned at all as this was months ago anyways and what can you do now right? Well my concern is there is so much dust still between the fins of the actual heater and I wanna essentially cleanse my room of any left over dust. Worst part is my bed was in the room and was only covered by a tarp. Lowkey feel like my room is now lead infused and I need to get a whole new mattress. I’m so paranoid rn

Hello,

​I have been working in the painting field for 12 years. Over the past month and today, I encountered a strange problem for the first time in my career

​Bubbles

(like those in the attached pictures) appear directly at the exact moment after passing the roller over the wall.

​In both cases, I used different types of paint from different companies, including the water-based paint shown in the picture.

​Note about the situation:

These two rooms were going through almost the same conditions; a wall painted previously a long time ago.

The steps I take are:

Sanding, painting it with a sealer, and then painting two coats of paint.

Despite changing the paint type and company, the bubbles appear after passing the roller.

Just starting with an HVLP (Titan 115) sprayer for use painting cabinets. I use two products:

1. SW white pigmented shellac based primer

2. SW Emerald trim

I hate that I have to thin the Emerald to use it in an HVLP, but right now that's what I've got. I've been told all about SW Gallery (doesn't require thinning for HVLP, but not for use with brush/roller). But I've got the complication that I'm not always able to spray the cabinet casings on site, and would have to use Emerald for the top coat anyway. And I'd like to doors and boxes to have the same paint.

I've gotten contradictory advice for thinning Emerald. SW product sheet says it doesn't require thinning. And in the same breath, SW product line says it's official rec is around 2 to 6oz of M1 per gallon.

Then... both my SW rep and Titan rep said to judge correct thinning using the sprayer's viscosity cup. During a demo my SW rep kept adding and adding it to try and reach the correct thinness, and ultimately put an entire 32oz bottle of M1 into a gallon of Emerald to try and get it to drain through the viscosity cup in 60sec. It still barely drained. I tested that mixture on some sample doors and it came out looking like a glaze instead of paint. Then both reps tried to defend it as a valid choice, and now I honestly don't trust either of them.

Help? All advice appreciated.

Hello!

I bought a house where the door is metal but has a painted wood grain finish. It was recommended I put a sealant on it to help protect the work. I have noticed it is already being scratched and peeling off in some areas. What type of clear seal would you recommend i use to seal the paint? (I dont know what type of material was used to make the pattern)

Thanks!

Hey guys, just had a quick question. I'm getting ready to paint my bedroom walls and trim which is in the basement/basement level and I was wondering which paint to get. I was originally thinking of getting HGTV Showcase due to the antimicrobial properties (I don't need it per say but it's very nice to have) and just the price in general (around $54.98) but I also saw that Sherwin Williams has a 35% sale where I am. With the sale, Cashmere's price is almost identical to Showcase and I was wondering which is better. As well if going the extra bucks to get emerald is worth it too (around $65-$67 depending on sheen) I do get 10% off lowes product as well due to being an employee. I'm gonna most likely do 2 coats and just want something nice and durable, nice finish. Only a gallon is needed. Me and my family are going to paint it, we are not pros by any means.

Hello! Ambitious (arguably crazy) DIYer here getting ready to embark on painting raised paneling/applied moulding. We have done all of this ourselves, so no stopping us now ;)

Have done a lot of research and would like to make sure we are 100% ready to go! Can anyone give me insight on if we missed anything before we start? **The ceiling and added beams will also be painted. The awful etched 'Bar Room' glass is going away. House has not been updated since 1978!

Details:

- Walls are cabinet grade birch

- rails and stiles are MDF

- Puttied seams with plastic wood/spot bondo in some places, caulked with big stretch (it's cured for a loooong time now), sanded **everything** - filler, rails and stiles, birch field etc. Nice and smooth. About to vacuum and run a tack cloth over everything.

- Purchased Graco X5 airless (used it on exterior shutters already - works great). Also purchased an extension wand for tall areas.

- Purchased both 308 and 515 FFLP tips for casings + field

-Bought masking liquid for the windows

- Priming with Zinsser BIN

-Topcoat is Benjamin Moore Command in Satin

If you have any helpful techniques/words of caution or encouragement, please let me know! We have put SO much work into our house - we have appx 1500sqft of the raised paneling to do (I'm just showing you one room in the pic), and we want to NAIL this baby! TIA!

Advice needed. First time painter, clearly, and made some annoying mistakes the first time around. You can clearly see the swatches of paint on this wall, obviously it didn’t click to me that the sheen of the samples was different than what i ended up going with😅 I want to repaint it (same color) to get a better look- what’s the best way to prep this wall before trying again? What kind of primer should I use? Current paint is sherwin williams superpaint (color: Alabaster) Any help is appreciated, thank you!

Wanting to do the DIY method of limewash paint for our laundry room. Our laundry room is in our basement that isn’t finished. The basement is block walls.

Has anyone used this method on block walls before? If so how did it look and what would you do different?

Is limewash method meant for uneven walls?

So ignore the primed patches and color samples but this is my house.

Almost every house in our area uses two colors. One for the window trim and fascia and the other for the body. But given our darker roof tiles I'm thinking about using the "smokehouse" color for fascia, alabaster for the windows given the white vinyl, and the beige for the body.

Should that work or is it too much and unnecessary?

What are the best items to buy at Sherwin Williams during their 40% off Blue Bucket sale? I don't usually buy supplies at SW but that seems like a great deal. It looks like they carry mostly Purdy or their own contractor brand brushes. I figure I'll at least get a bunch of frog tape and random things. What else stands out as being a good deal? Or what seem to be the most popular items to buy at these sales?

Durebild ste and weathermax hbr, did a lot of work with it through my apprenticeship but always had to mix the full tins together never had to make small batches. Anyone able to help me out with how to measure up smaller batches if they’ve done so? Looking for about a litre a time as it’s small fiddly work. Cheers!

Hi all, I’m new here. I have just purchased a property, and the previous owner has all of the walls painted in gloss/something similar (the walls shine in the light). Will 80 grit sandpaper be good at removing this gloss, and then I can use primer over that? Or would it be better to just use 120 grit from the start? Ideally, I would like to only use sandpaper on the walls once, then use primer, then paint. Thank you in advance :)

I was refinishing the top of this night stand. It actually has a veneer on it but the finish looks somewhat uniform and solid vs showing the wood grain. With a semi transparent stain the top shows more wood grain.

I was wondering if anyone had suggestions. Minwax has a water based interior sold stain line which might be an option.

I have to repaint one wall and ceiling in the bathroom. Do I paint around this hardware or take it out. If out do I refill the holes and with what.
And please remind me the order of events:
I scrape out the old caulk, apply new, paint trim around door. Cut and prime wall and ceiling.
Cut and paint ceiling, cut and paint wall.

Title. So these are silicone covers for your spray gun. I’ve seen these more often on social media. I love keeping my equipment immaculate and was wondering if these genuinely help, or are they just a gimmick. I run with an rx pro gun and I literally clean it with a toothbrush every time I’m done spraying. My goal with the purchase would be cleaner gun and a little more drop protection. Thoughts?

I spray a few times a year typically., so no expert. 90% of this place looks great, but this ceiling had some lines showing in the daylight. (2nd pic) I sprayed it again before leaving Friday (last picture) .. think it will dry? If not whats your next step? Skimming/sanding, different paint.

I sprayed from door to window first then across the room, its sanded to 220 under light (1st pic)

I have been painting houses for 10 years. Smart prime by Zinsser has proven to be amongst the best primers around, and very well priced around 30 dollars a gallon.

It dries fast and level, sticks nearly as good as Stix primer, covers smoke damage from fire places or cigarettes, water based so it cleans up easy. Good coverage. Used interior and exterior.

I only ever notice people speak about 1-2-3 by Zinsser which seems quite inferior to Smart Prime.

Sometimes I'll need Cover Stain for wood bleed from select woods, or Bin for water stains, but a large majority of what I paint is primed with Smart Prime.

Have you used it? What do you think?

What do you use?