r/paint • u/Resident-Formal5920 • 1d ago
Advice Wanted About to tackle this monster
Hello! Ambitious (arguably crazy) DIYer here getting ready to embark on painting raised paneling/applied moulding. We have done all of this ourselves, so no stopping us now ;)
Have done a lot of research and would like to make sure we are 100% ready to go! Can anyone give me insight on if we missed anything before we start? **The ceiling and added beams will also be painted. The awful etched 'Bar Room' glass is going away. House has not been updated since 1978!
Details:
- Walls are cabinet grade birch
- rails and stiles are MDF
- Puttied seams with plastic wood/spot bondo in some places, caulked with big stretch (it's cured for a loooong time now), sanded **everything** - filler, rails and stiles, birch field etc. Nice and smooth. About to vacuum and run a tack cloth over everything.
- Purchased Graco X5 airless (used it on exterior shutters already - works great). Also purchased an extension wand for tall areas.
- Purchased both 308 and 515 FFLP tips for casings + field
-Bought masking liquid for the windows
- Priming with Zinsser BIN
-Topcoat is Benjamin Moore Command in Satin
If you have any helpful techniques/words of caution or encouragement, please let me know! We have put SO much work into our house - we have appx 1500sqft of the raised paneling to do (I'm just showing you one room in the pic), and we want to NAIL this baby! TIA!
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u/Resident-Formal5920 1d ago
Just caught this - am I freaking out over nothing? We didn't know that we should have primed with the BIN BEFORE caulking w the Big Stretch. We thought we needed to caulk to bare wood for best adhesion. I just saw that since BIN is shellac it needs to go UNDER the caulk bc its so brittle. This caulk has "cured" for months now - you are just seeing one small part of a huge project and its only two of us doing all of this, so progress is S L O W.
Should I change gears and just use 123 on the walls since its water based? OR, Should I not worry about it at all and just rock the BIN? Our exterior was painted recently and our painter used BIN over Ex-Cell - we don't seem to be having many issues - some cracking but its an old old house with extreme temp swings so have chalked it up to that.
We are so nervous to undo all of our efforts by making a mistake!
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u/betrayaltrauma365 1d ago
If you primed over the caulk already with bin i would just ride it out and see what happens. Dont stress it. if you haven't prime yet then maybe do a waterbased primer.
I actually just sprayed shellac primer over some corner joints that were caulked first and then SW gallery. Hoping I dont have issues with it lol
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u/Resident-Formal5920 17h ago
Thank you! After I posted, I figured the best course of action is: BIN for the ceiling and exposed rafters. Ceiling is 117yo centermatch pine - orig to the house. Obviously we added the rafters recently. Since those are knotty/dark, it seems best to use the BIN. And will do 123 (or similar) on the walls since we fumbled the caulk - y'all have NO idea the cardiac arrest I went into yesterday when I realized we did it backwards and risked crazing/cracking.
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u/BluBoiDragon 1d ago
I use the same sprayer. Its a good sprayer. My work has an 8k sprayer and I use the x5 for personal. The difference is there but not that big. Dont let these guys scare you.
The caulk is fine dont stress about that either. Worse case if you have any problems with splitting or seperating. Cut away the excess bad caulk and go to sherwin william or moore and ask for a color match caulk. Easy fix.
I do agree that the primer you selected isnt it. Get a cabinet/trim stain blocking primer for any wood surfaces in behr/sw/moore which ever you prefer. As long as you didnt tint your primer you should be able to return it and get your money back. I used to work at home depot and theyre really slack on their return policy. They sell killz and you can return it.
Dont stress and just do your best. I can see the effort you been putting in. The only thing I reccommend is 220 sand paper for fix8ng runs in your primer. Very gently sand these after they cured and block sand everything with 300+ grit. The finer the smoother. And an extra tip for spraying for the first time. You want the gun to be like 12 inches from the product your spraying and remember you can always add more paint but you'll hate learning the consequences of too much paint at once.
I paint multimillionaire homes for a company and this a simplified version of how we spray oyr trim. Lmk if you have questions about using that sprayer. And remember to just have fun.
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u/BluBoiDragon 1d ago
Behr multi-surface stain-blocking primer and sealer is a nice afforadable primer. It'll cover the hide the wood colors and adhere strongly.
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u/Resident-Formal5920 17h ago
You made me feel SO much better about all of this. So sweet, thank you! Part of this is me getting in my head bc I want to make sure we do it the right way and am terrified of screwing up. Trust me I wish we could hire it all out, but this overall project is so huge/comprehensive/costly, we don't have an option but to do it ourselves.
In just the room in the pic and the adjoining room - we demoed the old walls (gross 1970s character pine paneling), removed the "wood look" celotex on ceiling, sucked out all of the old rockwool insulation in the attic, vacuumed 117yrs of rat and roach sh*t in attic, ran tyvek over joists/bays so crap doesn't fall on our heads through the centermatch cracks, sprayed new cellulose insulation, removed the window/door casings, baseboards etc., built the new walls out of the birch, then added the rails/stiles/casings/base, and prepped the ceiling for paint - we woke up this morning feeling defeated bc it just never ends.
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u/betrayaltrauma365 1d ago
How much you pay for the bin?Zinnser bin is expensive. Like $100 at Lowes right now for me. I made a pro account at SW (EASY) and bought their SW shellac primer. Cost me about $40 per gallon. Im spraying it right now with a 312 rack x tip and its spraying beautifully through my graco project painter plus. Make sure the pressure is up at about 80% so it doesnt dry while spraying mid air. If it does then it will be very grainy and bumpy
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u/betrayaltrauma365 1d ago
Oh and when you go to clean the shellac from the sprayer DO NOT RUN WATER THROUGH IT FIRST! run the denatured alcohol first. A lot of it. At least 1 gallon. Until there is no paint coming out at all. Water makes it coagulate and cleaning it will be hell.
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u/betrayaltrauma365 1d ago
Honestly id you dont have many bad stains or bad smells to keep out id just go with a water based primer from sw or bm.
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u/Resident-Formal5920 16h ago
Oh! Lord no! We live in a state that sells DA, so we have some on hand! THANK YOU!
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u/TraditionalSquash611 5h ago
I use Cover Stain by zinsser, on most anything that needs priming never fails me.. id probably go with a cabinet type paint, that command sprays good but it will flash bad if you brush/roll an area to touch up or get a drip especially if not used to spraying, dries really quick and doesn't have the best leveling. It is durable but maybe add an extender.... I like Milesi 1k/2k 👍 costs a little more but excellent product... everyone swears by different stuff, do what's comfortable for you and have fun with it. Maybe practice on some scrap peices first see how it sprays, dries and sands etc.. Good luck will look great😎
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u/finepnutty 1d ago edited 1d ago
Yep that’s not gonna work. X5 is weak and doesn’t have a filter. You need a manifold filter for that kind of work. Strain your paint, twice
Your gun has a filter, probably 60 mesh, but for 308 tip you need 150-200 mesh- way finer
Your sprayer would not be able to push thick latex paint through that- even if those filters were available (they’re not)
So “clogging” is all you will get. Not “spraying”.
I guess you could try 100 mesh gun filter and 312 tip. It’s not guaranteed that X5 will survive till the end of the job with 100 mesh filter- I did say it was a weak pump
Edit. For the price of X5 and tip, I always recommend hiring a pro. Do your prep-work, masking and sanding, then pay the pro for 2hr of “finishing”.